AftKOWh     HAL  i,     CO.    CHESTER. 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF. CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


I 


SCENES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE 


SECOND   EDITION. 


Printed  by  R.  Clark 

FOR 
EDMONSTON  &  DOUGLAS,  EDINBURGH. 

LONDON  :    HAMILTON,  ADAMS,  AND  CO. 


% 


">  —• 


Vi 


EDINBURGH:  EDMONSTON  &  DOUGLAS.  M  D  C  C  C  LXXH. 


TO 

COLONEL  WALTER  CAMPBELL. 

MY  DEAR  WALTER, 

As  the  perusal  of  the  writings  of 

"The  Old  Forest  Kanger,"  in  the  days  of  my  early  youth, 
first  turned  my  thoughts  to  the  hunting-grounds  of  India, 
to  him  the  following  pages  are  dedicated  by 

HIS  AFFECTIONATE  KINSMAN, 

THE  AUTHOR 

AUCHINTOUL,  April  1871. 


PEEFACE. 


AT  the  suggestion  of  friends,  I  have  here  given  a  short 
account  of  some  of  my  doings  during  a  long  residence 
in  India.  The  propriety  of  the  suggestion  may  be 
doubted,  but  having  been  adopted,  the  book  must  stand 
for  what  it  is  worth. 

Tiger  stories  have  been  told  before,  and  as  I  gene- 
rally find  them  received  with  incredulity  in  England, 
it  seems  only  fair  that  I  should  aid  in  establishing  the 
veracity  of  my  brother-sportsmen. 

But  I  should  hardly  have  had  the  temerity  to 
appear  in  public,  had  I  not  received  the  valuable 
assistance  of  Colonel  E.  Baigrie,  late  Assistant  Quarter- 
Master-General  on  the  Bombay  Establishment,  to 
whom  I  am  indebted  for  the  principal  illustrations  by 
which  the  book  is  enlivened. 

Himself  an  ardent  sportsman,  and  a  keen  observer 
of  forest  scenery  and  all  its  surroundings,  he  has  well 


M310057 


Viii  PREFACE. 

portrayed  the  incidents  described.  His  vivid  sketches 
have  been  reproduced  by  Mr.  Dallas  of  Edinburgh  by 
a  new  and  beautiful  process. 

The  pen-and-ink  sketches  are  copies  from  drawings 
by  my  friend  the  late  Harrington  Bulkley,  with  whom 
I  was  associated  during  several  pleasant  years  in 
Guzerat. 

W.  GOEDON  GUMMING. 


AUCHINTOUL,  April  1871. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEK  I. 

Introductory  remarks— Route  and  Outfit— Expenses— Cold  Weather  Excur- 
sion— Hints  on  Antelope-shooting,  Ducks,  Snipe,  etc. — Hot  Weather 
Excursion — Hints  on  Tiger,  Panther,  and  Bear  shooting — Danger  of 
following  wounded  animals  on  foot — Preservation  of  Skins 

Pages  1-21 


CHAPTEK  II. 

Arrival  in  India — March  to  Dharwar — My  first  Antelope — Snaring  Antelope — 
Bustard — Scorpion-sting — Cheetul — Wild  Boar — "The  old  Forest  Ranger  " 
Panther  Cubs — Jungle  and  Pea  Fowl — Monkeys — Shooting  at  Edeegut- 
tee — The  Dandelly  Jungles — We  awaken  the  Authorities — Emaum  and 
Moideen — Mode  of  Shooting — Cheetul  shot — Bison  shot— Habits  of 
Sambur — Danger  from  a  carelessly  cleaned  Rifle — Bison  killed — Cow 
Bison — We  fire  the  Jungle — An  energetic  Kick — Bull  shot — Picnic  at  the 
Lake — Thunderstorm — Solitary  Bull  shot — A  charging  Bull— Emaum's 
Device — Preservation  of  Skulls— Tiger  and  Deer — Pig  shot — Bison  shot — 
Indolence  of  Emaum — Return  to  Dharwar  22-48 


CHAPTEK  III. 

Kolapoor—  Fox  and  Jackal  Coursing — A  broken  Collar-bone — A  Snake — Royal 
Sportsman — Excursion  with  Langton — Treasure  Escort — Surgery — A 
Native  Hunter — Military  Sporting — Phoonda  Ghaut — Shaik  Adam  :  his 
Gun— Fever— A  Cheerless  Vigil— Stuffed  Bear— Practical  Joking— Fish- 
shooting — Mombait  Jungles— A  Bear  shot— Conjugal  Affection — Bear's 
Grease— Bison  seen— Domestic  Cow  shot — Embark  for  Guzerat  49-67 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  IV. 

Landing  in  Guzerat— Saras  shot — Broach — Quail-shooting — Expedition  to 
Nandode — Tiger-shooting  at  night  from  Platforms — Tiger  missed — An 
untoward  Snooze — Sliced  Hygena-^Opium-eaters — Bear  shot — Bear  shot 
near  its  Cave — Gratuitous  Feast  to  a  Tiger — Panther  shot — Toorun  Mall 
Hill — A  Tiger  poisoned  —  Smoking  out  a  Tiger  —  Dubka  —  Big  Boar 
wounded— Boar  slain— Alligators — One  shot  — Pebbles  in  Alligators — 
Powaghur — Sambur-shooting  *bn  the  Hill — Thrilling  Adventure  with  a 
Goat Pages  68-87 


CHAPTEE  V. 

Guzerat — Game — The  Revenue  Survey— "The  Hunt  "— Dongurwah  Meet — 
Disputed  Spear — Finishing  off  a  Boar  on  foot — A  Bloody  Draught — The 
Eace  not  always  to  the  swift— A  Sell  for  a  Boaster — Boar  dropped  with 
a  single  Spear — Thorns  in  Horse's  Legs  :  Treatment — A  Day's  Shooting 
at  Dongurwah — Hunt  meet  at  Vinjool — Three  Hogs  slain— Land  Tor- 
toises— Chinkara-shooting — Three  Bucks  shot — All  Smoke — Sporting 
Attendant  .  -  .  88-105 


CHAPTEE  VI. 

Antelope-shooting  on  the  Samburmuttee — Meytal — Peafowl-shooting — Ride 
"Wounded  Buck — Do.  with  Dog— White  Antelopes — Nylghae— Dog 
attacked  by  them — Three  shot — Rock  Snakes — Panther  shot  at  Surla — 
Invigorating  Drink — The  "Null" — Antelope — Coolen  and  Duck  shoot- 
ing— Shooting  in  Bedfordshire — Anecdotes — Antelope-shooting  from  Pits 
—Gun  borrowed  and  returned  .  .  106-118 


CHAPTEE  VII. 

Antelope-driving  in  Grain-fields — Coolen — Two  Antelope  at  a  shot — The 
"Rore" — Alligators — Unpleasant  Bathing  Companions — Antelope  near 
Dhollera — Four  Bucks  shot — Long  shot  at  a  Wolf— Buck  eaten  by  Wolves 
— A  Game-preserver  corrected — Spearing  a  Snake — Snake  and  Frog — 
Shooting  in  Dhundooka — White  Buck  shot — Wolf  ditto — More  misguided 
Game-preservers  .  119-131 


CONTENTS.  XI 


CHAPTEE  VIII 

Shooting  at  Raanpore — Panther  shot — Chinkara  :  five  shot — Panther  missed 
— Hog-hunting  at  Eaanpore — Three  successful  Runs — Young  Lion — 
Hunting  at  Santhul— Great  Draught  of  Fishes — Robbed  of  the  Honours — 
Porcupines — Hunting  at  Suheej  with  Bulkley — Two  good  Runs — Exciting 
Hunt  of  a  big  Boar .  .  Pages  132-146 

CHAPTEK  IX. 

Horses  ripped  by  Boars — Run  at  Rheenjah — Ducks  in  Samburmuttee — Tiger- 
Shooting  expedition  near  Beerpoor — Large  Tiger  seen — Hunt  in  the  "Wat- 
ruck  river  at  Muggoree — Big  Tiger  wounded — Tigress  shot — Rash  Hunt 
for  the  Big  Tiger — Second  day  at  Muggoree — Two  cubs  shot — Man  killed 
by  a  Tigress — Third  day  at  Muggoree — Bulkley  badly  mauled — March 
to  Baroda — Langton  killed  by  a  Tiger — March  to  Surat — Tiger- wounds 

147-161 

CHAPTEE  X. 

Indore — Kautcote  Jungles — Tiger  wounded — Large  Tiger  seen — Cry  of  Tigers 
when  charging — Bad  Mahouts — Night  watching  for  Tigers — Cheetul 
shot — Herd  of  Sambur— A  Bear's  Throne — Murrel  shot — Tiger  missed 
— Wild  Dogs — Craving  of  Deer  for  salt — Shooting  with  a  High  Tra- 
jectory— Antelope-shooting  at  Indore — Jowra  Nawaub — Cheetah  Hunt — 
Tame  Buck  (?)  shot — A  Buck  in  the  grass — A  long  Shot — March  to 
Bundelcund — Thunder-storm — Cholera — Snipe-shooting — Jansi — Duttiah 
— The  Chiefs  Preserve — Four  Nylghae  shot — Wild  Pig  shot — Stalking 
Antelopes— Right  and  left  shot  at  Chinkara — Cheetah's  Tactics— Oorae 
— Gipsy  Kettle  —Return  March — Blue  Bull  shot — Bustard  shot 

162-179 

CHAPTEE  XL 

Origin  of  the  Bheels  :  their  Character — Bear  marked  down — Valley  of  Nimar 
— Bear  bolted  and  slain — Mowa  Trees — Sindwah— Mekranee  joins  me — 
March  to  Teekree — Hunt  in  the  Boorar  River — Tigress  slain — Filtered 
Water— Runaway  Elephant— March  to  Khull — Meet  Hunt — Move  to 
Dhurrempooree — Panther  smoked  out  and  shot — March  to  the  Hills — 
Encounter  with  Bear — Bappoo  to  the  Rescue — Close  shooting — Absence 
of  Pain  in  Fresh  Wounds — Habits  of  Bears  and  Young — Move  to  Mund- 
laisir — Cold-water  Dressing — Recovery  .....  180-193 


xii  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  XII. 

Mutiny  of  the  Bengal  Army — Outbreak  at  Indore  and  Mhow — Murder  of 
Officers  at  Mhow — Signs  of  Disaffection  at  Maunpore— Retreat  to  the 
Jungles — Precautions  against  Surprise — Return  to  Maunpore — Visit  the 
Mhow  Fort — Reinforcements— Assume  Charge  of  Nimar  District— Colonel 
Keatinge,  V.C. — Panther-traps — Shaik  Munnoo — Cow  slain  by  Panther — 
Unsuccessful  Vigil — Bear-Hunt — Munnoo  shoots  Hysenas — Wolf  seen — 
Attack  of  Smallpox Pages  194-206 

CHAPTEE  XIII. 

Ride  to  Maunpore — Nylghae — Absence  of  Fear — Blue  Bull  shot — Wolves — 
Munnoo  shoots  a  Tiger— Tracks  of  Four — Panther  and  Cubs — Ajnaar 
River — Cave — Recluse — Panther  shot — The  Force  of  Imagination — Bheel 
Insurrection — Plunder  of  Treasure — Military  Movements — Rout  of  Insur- 
gents— Discovery  of  buried  Treasure — Surrender  of  Bheema — A  Tiger 
missed— Flying  Squirrel— Ant-eater 207-216 

CHAPTEE  XIV. 

Suppression  of  the  Mutiny — A  Wise  Policy — Capture  of  Gwalior — Tantia 
Topee — Advance  of  General  Michel — Duties  of  "Politicals" — Rajghur 
— The  Pursuit — An  Ambuscade — Capture  of  the  Guns — Death  of  Lieut. 
Shaw — March  on  Bhairseeah  and  Sironj — The  Sir  Soubah — Engagement 
at  Mongrowlee — Advance  on  Lullutpore — Movements  of  the  Enemy — 
Fight  at  Sindwaho — Pursuit — Affair  at  Kurai — Bagrode — Bodies  of  the 
Slain — Bhilsa — The  Sanchi  Tope— Advance  on  Baitool— Flight  of  Tantia 
— Return  to  Mhow — March  on  Kotah — The  Rajah's  Shooting  Party — 
Chinkara-shooting — Evening  Receptions — Adroit  thieves — Nusserabad — 
Dispersion  of  Tantia's  Force — His  Capture  and  Execution — End  of  the 
Campaign— I  move  to  Bhopal 217-234 

CHAPTEE  XV. 

Sehore — Guinea- Worms — Man  killed  by  Tiger— Preparations  for  the  Hunt — 
Impatient  Sportsman — Pursuit  —  The  Tiger  checked — A  Charge — A 
Struggle  for  the  Mastery— The  Tiger  slain — Sirdarpore — Prospects  of 
Sport — Tigress  shot  at  Baug — Five  Bears  seen — Panther  shot — Tigress 
at  Ringnode  ;  her  Death — A  Pony  speared — Opium  Cultivation 

235-246 


CONTENTS.  X1U 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Sooltanpoor  Eavine — Tiger  seen — Man  wounded — Second  visit— Tiger  slain 
— Tiger  shot  by  Ward — Tiger  shot— Ward's  shooting — Good  Pistol-prac- 
tice— Florican-shooting — Hyaena — Panther  shot  in  Dhar — Hyaena- trap — 
Mandoo — Tigress  shot — Bears  at  Burmundel — Bears  at  Buckutgurh — 
Dhotreea — Tigress  shot — Intense  Heat — Bear  shot  on  the  Mhye — Kamla 
—A  Habitual  Criminal  Act  .  .  .  .  .  .  Pages  247-257 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Meet  Bonnor  on  Dohud  Frontier — Tiger  in  Eanapoor  Eavine — Plan  of  Attack 
— Instantaneous  Death — I  join  my  Friends  —  Murder  of  Two  Bears — 
Cooling  Drinks — Another  Bear — Pursuit — The  Bear  shot — I  return  to 
Sirdarpore — Bears  at  Tirla — A  Siesta — Drawing  the  Bear — Mother  and 
Child  smoked  out— The  Chief  of  Jucnaoda— Tiger-Tactics— the  Tiger 
slain 258-264 

CHAPTER   XVIII. 

Meet  Ward  at  Dhurrempooree — Move  to  Kotra — Scenery—  Tigers'  Tracks — 
A  lucky  Find — The  Tigress  slain — Two  more  marked  down — Bees — 
Ticks — Successful  Hunt — Second  Day,  Tigress  slain — Third  Day,  the 
Tiger  escapes— Fourth  Day,  killed  this,  time — Fifth  Day,  five  Tigers 
bagged— Calm  Beatitude 265-275 

CHAPTER   XIX. 

Meet  Blowers  at  Baug — Tiger  wounded — Following  up — We  return  empty- 
handed — Another  Tiger — A  Snap-shot— The  Tiger's  Den — Imperfect  Ven- 
tilation— Spoiling  the  slain — Old  Bullet-wound — Skin  spoilt — Eeturn  to 
Sirdarpore— Meet  Ward  and  Bradford  at  Dhotreea — Two  Bears  shot — 
Two  more — Large  Tiger  and  two  Bears  bagged  .  .  .  276-284 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Alice  Eajpore — Shoot  with  the  Eajah — Tigress  shot — Tigress  killed  in  Sankree 
Tokree  Eavine — A  Long  Shot — Hunt  in  Mogra  Eavine — Tiger  and  three 
Cubs—  Cheetah — Move  to  Jhabbooa— Bugore — Dhokul  Sing — Big  Tiger 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

shot— Kullianpore — Tigress  shot — Tiger  wounded — Four  Tigers  at  Bugore 
— Narrow  Escape  of  Dhokul — Camp  on  Anas  River — Large  Tiger  wounded ; 
followed  up  and  slain — Boar's  skull — Tortoise — A  Cunning  Tiger — Break 
up  the  Camp — Rodent  Bouquet  .  .  .  .  .  Pages  285-298 

CHAPTER    XXL 

Baug — Bhoodist  Caves — A  Recluse — Four  Tigers  tracked — Cub  shot— Bears 
and  Bees — Dhokul  shoots  a  Cub — Tigress  and  Cub  shot — Peacocks — 
Mogra  Ravine— Jungle  on  fire— Bear  shot — A  Tiger  escapes — Dog  attacked 
by  Panther— Tigress  shot— Bull  killed  by  a  Tiger— Stalking  Tactics- 
Platform  shooting  by  night— Hysena  shot — Tiger  killed — Move  to  Tanda 
—Tiger  shot— Death  of  Foorsut— The  Bag  ....  299-309 

CHAPTER   XXII. 

The  Meet  at  Mundlaisir — Three  Tigers  at  Burnea — One  shot — Panther  killed 
—Bees  at  Zerbar— Wild  Pig— Tiger  shot— Tigress  and  Cubs  at  Buluk- 
warra — Three  Bears  murdered — Tigers  at  Nulwye— One  shot — A  Cowardly 
Mahout — Tigress  shot — Panther  at  Kirnowee — The  Mahout  chastised — 
Big  Tiger  at  Oochawud — Bear  and  Cub — Three  Bears  shot — Tiger  Cubs — 
Hysena  caught— Panther  shot — Alligators  at  Dinner— Tigress  shot  at 
Bowtee — Tigers  in  Three  Places — Three  shot — Camp  at  Morkutta — Three 
more — The  Hum  Pahl — Bear  shot — Precautions  against  Thieves — Two 
Bears  shot — Camp  at  Hutnee  River — Two  Tigers  slain — Measurements 
of  Tigers— White  Ants— Divide  the  Spoils— Cadell  departs  — Elephant 
in  Quicksand — Three  Tigers  poisoned — Tiger  shot — Bear  and  Cubs — 
Bear  wounded — Three  Tigers  shot — Man  mauled  by  Tigress — Return  to 
Sirdarpore 310-328 

CHAPTER   XXIII. 

Predatory  Habits  of  the  Bheels — The  International  Court — Mode  of  Procedure 
— Naikras  of  the  Punch  Mahal  —  Camp  at  Powaghur — Peculiar  form 
of  Oath— A  Cobra— Three  Dogs  killed— Move  to  Ruttun  Mall— The 
Route — Green  Pigeons  and  Jungle-Fowl — Stag  shot — Major  Bonnor 
breaks  out  in  Poetry — Move  to  Dohud — Three  Bears  shot — Tame  Tiger — 
Their  fondness  for  Water — Murrel— Return  to  Sirdarpore— Cheetah  shot 
—Gazelles — Business  combined  with  Pleasure — An  Amiable  Tigress 

329-337 


CONTENTS.  XV 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

Excursion  to  Rajpootana — Bradford's  Encounter  with  a  Tiger — Prompt  Prac- 
tice— A  "Wolf— The  Jowra  Gunsmith — I  meet  Hayward — Trout-fishing — 
Alligator  shot — A  runaway  Elephant — Native  Fishermen — Turtle — 
Bustard — General  Game — A  Tiger  shot — Camp  at  Mandul — Murrel-fish- 
ing — Shoogramghur — Pig-shooting — Return  to  Neemuch  and  Sirdarpore 
— Hot  Season  Expedition — Meet  Evans  and  Froom — Tiger  shot — Panther 
shot — Move  to  Hum  Pahl — Tiger  killed — A  Facer — Panther  in  Mogra 
— Bear  missed— Jeeree  Ravine — Two  Panthers  shot — Camp  at  Baug — 
Panther  shot — Maun  River — Tigress  shot — A  Rifle  smashed — Panther 
killed — Good  shooting — Move  to  Munawur — Two  Panthers  slain — Man 
wounded — Camp  at  Kotra — Nylghae — Cheerakan — Fossils — Move  to 
Sooltanpoor — Death  of  Tarrachund — Dutteegaum — Bear  wounded — End 
of  the  Campaign — Concluding  Remarks  .  .  .  Pages  338-351 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


1.  ATTACKED  BY  A  BEAR,  vide  page  190 — Frontispiece. 

2.  TITLE-PAGE. 

PAGE 

3.  SMOKING  OUT  A  TIGER 82 

4.  THE  START 93 

5.  BIDING  FOR  THE  FIRST  SPEAR 96 

6.  THE  FIND 103 

7.  THE  "GRIM  GRAY,"  No.  1.  BULKLEY  TAKES  A  MUD  BATH    .        .  143 

8.  ,,  ,,  No.  2.  THE  BOAR  CHARGES    ....     144 

9.  ,,  ,,  No.  3.  THE  SWORD  BREAKS  .        .        .        .145 

10.  .,,  ,,  No.  4.  DEATH  OF  BOAR         .        .    .   .        .     146 

11.  DRAWING  A  BEAR  262 


CHAPTEE  I. 

Introductory  Remarks — Route  and  Outfit — Expenses — Cold  Weather  Excur- 
sion— Hints  on  Antelope-shooting,  Ducks,  Snipe,  etc. — Hot  Weather 
Excursion1—  Hints  on  Tiger,  Panther,  and  Bear  Shooting— Danger  of 
following  Wounded  Animals  on  foot — Preservation  of  Skins. 

I  HAVE  often  been  surprised  that  the  game  of  India,  with  its 
wild  and  varied  character,  does  not  more  frequently  attract 
sportsmen  from  England. 

In  many  new  and  comparatively  savage  countries,  unin- 
fluenced by  British  or  any  other  rule  worthy  of  the  name, 
there  is  no  doubt  grand  and  exciting  sport  to  be  got ;  but 
then  it  is  accompanied  by  an  amount  of  hardship  and  dis- 
comfort, not  to  say  personal  danger,  which  scares  any  but 
the  most  determined  hunters.  Servants  are  with  difficulty 
obtained,  and  much  of  what  may  be  called  the  dirty  work  of 
the  expedition  has  to  be  done  by  the  master.  Large  supplies 
of  all  kinds  have  to  be  carried,  and,  owing  to  the  difficulties 
of  transport,  many  comforts  have  to  be  left  behind.  The 
time,  moreover,  to  be  taken  up  by  the  excursion  is  uncertain, 
owing  to  ignorance  of  the  ground  to  be  traversed  and  the 
difficulty  of  locomotion ;  and,  in  the  event  of  sickness  or 
accident,  medical  aid  is  not  to  be  had  for  love  or  money. 
Lastly — and  to  many  not  least — no  approximate  estimate  can 
be  formed  of  the  probable  expense. 

In  India  there  is  none  of  this  ;  the  country  is  either 
British,  or  under  native  chiefs,  protected  by  or  tributary  to 

B 


2  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

the  Queen ;  locomotion  is  easy,  and  not  expensive,  carts 
being  almost  everywhere  procurable,  or,  failing  carts,  pack 
bullocks  or  ponies.  The  country  is  studded  with  British 
cantonments  200  and  300  miles  apart,  where  supplies  can  be 
got  to  replenish  the  commissariat  department — the  traders' 
shops  containing  all  that  may  be  desired,  from  Holloway's 
pills  to  moderator  lamps,  and  from  Hall's  gunpowder  to  bitter 
beer  and  cod-liver  oil.  All  articles  are  generally  at  fair  prices, 
the  distance  from  England  and  the  irregular  market  considered. 

The  "promiscuous"  traveller  cannot,  of  course,  expect,  on 
first  landing  in  the  country,  to  get  servants  of  the  best  class, 
the  more  so  as  they  would  be  aware  that  their  work  would  be 
hard,  and  their  situations  only  temporary ;  but  good  rough- 
and-ready  men  will  always  be  found  on  the  look-out  for 
service,  and  prepared  to  start  on  a  day's  notice. 

The  only  parts  of  the  country  which  are  much  shot  over 
are  those  in  the  immediate  proximity  of  cantonments,  say 
within  fifty  or  sixty  miles.  Beyond  this  radius  game  may 
be  found  in  sufficient  quantities  to  satisfy  the  most  greedy 
sportsman ;  and  in  the  pursuit  of  some  species  he  will  find 
no  lack  of  the  danger  which  gives  zest  to  the  chase. 

In  the  event  of  sickness  or  accident,  skilled  surgeons  are 
to  be  met  with  in  every  cantonment.  Indian  hospitality  is 
proverbial,  and  the  patient  might  reckon  on  being  courteously 
received  and  well  cared  for.  Formerly,  such  a  thing  was 
hardly  necessary,  but  now-a-days  one  or  two  good  letters  of 
introduction  at  starting  would  be  found  useful.  In  India 
everybody  knows  everybody,  and  the  stranger  would  be 
passed  on  from  one  cantonment  to  the  next. 

With  the  exception  of  his  guns  and  rifles  and  their 
ammunition,  an  outfit  for  a  six  months'  excursion  might  be 
got  together  in  a  day  at  any  of  the  Presidency  towns. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  6 

If  the  sportsman  goes  in  for  hog-hunting,  a  couple  of 
good  horses  are  desirable,  and  these  would  cost  from  £20  to 
£100  each,  according  to  the  weight  or  luck  of  the  rider.  The 
more  expensive  horses  are,  however,  by  no  means  always  the 
best  hog-hunters,  and  I  have  known  more  first  spears  taken 
off  seasoned  screws  and  strong  galloways  with  a  turn  of  speed 
than  by  high-priced  horses ;  blood  and  pluck  to  stand  a 
charge  being,  however,  indispensable. 

A  second-hand  hill-tent,  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  square, 
a  copper  basin,  a  couple  of  fold-up  tables,  two  cane  chairs 
bound  with  leather,  a  light  sleeping  cot,  and,  above  all,  a 
comfortable  arm-chair,  are  all  the  furniture  required,  together 
with  a  thin  mattress  and  a  few  sheets,  blankets,  and  towels. 
If  the  party  consists  of  two  or  more,  a  double  supply  of  every- 
thing is  most  convenient.  On  a  change  of  ground  being  con- 
templated, all  would  dine  comfortably  together,  and  after 
dinner  one  set  of  servants  would  start  off  with  one  tent  and 
one  set  of  equipments.  The  sportsmen  would  rise  at  or  before 
daybreak,  and,  after  a  cup  of  tea  and  a  bite,  might  shoot 
their  way  to  the  next  camp,  where  they  would  find  the  tent 
which  had  come  on  in  the  night  ready  pitched,  and  their  tubs 
and  breakfasts  all  comfortable. 

Leaving  England  early  in  October,  Bombay  might  be 
reached  via  Marseilles  in  twenty-one  days.  Four  hundred 
miles  by  rail  would  take  the  party  to  Ahmedabad,  and  the 
months  of  November,  December,  and  January  might  be  spent 
in  the  plains  of  Guzerat  and  Kattyawar.  Here  the  Saiseen 
antelope  or  black  buck  abound,  as  do  also  the  chinkara  or 
gazelle  and  the  nylghae.  Hog  are  also  to  be  found  in  parts, 
and  panthers,  wolves,  and  hysenas  would  occasionally  vary 
the  sport.  In  Kattyawar  bustard  are  plentiful ;  quail  and 
snipe  are  to  be  met  with  in  large  numbers,  while  every  sheet 


4  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  water  in  the  country  teems  with  ducks  of  every  description. 
Waders  of  many  kinds  would  afford  interest  to  the  naturalist, 
and  the  coolen  or  blue  crane,  which  is  found  in  large  numbers, 
forms  a  valuable  addition  to  the  table  of  the  sportsman. 
Hares  are  also  plentiful  in  many  places  ;  the  grey  and  painted 
partridges  are  common,  and  rock  or  sand  grouse  are  found  on 
light  and  dry  soils.  If  the  hunter  cares  to  vary  his  amuse- 
ments, foxes  and  jackals  will  always  give  fair  sport  before  a 
"  running  dog." 

In  the  "  Geer"  of  Kattyawar  lions  are  to  be  found,  though 
not  in  such  numbers  as  formerly  ;  but  I  believe  there  are  no 
tigers  in  this  part.  I  have,  however,  never  shot  in  that 
jungle.  Wild  boars  and  nylghae  are  plentiful ;  but  the 
country  is  rugged,  and  not  suited  for  hog-hunting  on  horse- 
back. Panthers  are  met  with  in  considerable  numbers. 

I  would  not  recommend  this  country  for  the  hot  weather, 
unless  the  pursuit  of  lions  is  an  especial  object ;  and  even  then 
not  unless  very  good  "  shikarees,"  or  native  hunters,  could  be 
got.  I  think  a  better  bag  would  be  made  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Nerbudda  and  Taptee. 

From  the  plains  of  Guzerat  and  Kattyawar  the  sportsman 
might  return  to  Ahmedabad,  and  thence  to  Bombay.  Start- 
ing again  about  the  end  of  February,  some  200  miles  by  the 
Great  Indian  Peninsular  Eailway  would  bring  him  to  the 
Asseerghur  jungles,  which  are  numerously  stocked  with  tigers, 
bears,  panthers,  bison,  pigs,  the  sambur  or  Indian  red  deer, 
chetul  or  axis,  and  several  smaller  kinds  of  deer. 

By  this  time  the  country  would  be  tolerably  well  dried 
up,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  grass  in  the  heavy  jungles  would 
have  been  burnt.  Until  the  jungles  are  cleared  there  is  little 
hope  of  sport,  however  numerous  the  game. 

It  would  be  well  to  secure  and  pay  two  good  shikarees 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  5 

from  January  1.  This  might  be  done  by  a  letter  and  a  remittance 
of  two  or  three  months'  pay  to  the  Commissioner  of  Minar,  or 
some  local  official.  Before  the  arrival  of  the  sportsman  at 
Asseerghur,  from  which  place  the  party  should  start,  the 
shikarees  should  go  over  the  ground  and  determine  the  best 
line  of  country  to  be  traversed.  By  this  means  much  valuable 
time  would  be  saved. 

From  the  ravines  on  the  Taptee  Eiver  the  party  might 
cross  to  the  Nerbudda ;  and  in  the  Hoosungabad  and  Baitool 
countries,  and  thence  down  both  banks  of  the  river  towards 
Burwye,  a  good  bag  might  be  made. 

The  best  sport  will  always  be  got  in  the  months  of  March, 
April,  and  May,  as  the  trees  are  then  free  from  leaves, 
and  the  scarcity  of  water  drives  all  game  to  the  immediate 
proximity  of  the  rivers.  As  a  rule,  I  have  found  that  more 
tigers  are  shot  in  partially  inhabited  districts,  and  if  a  fair 
amount  of  game  can  be  found  in  these,  they  are  always  to  be 
preferred  for  many  reasons.  The  cultivation  attracts  the  deer 
and  pigs,  which  are  the  favourite  food  of  the  tigers.  Failing 
them,  they  have  the  cattle  of  the  villagers  to  fall  back  upon. 
Bears  prefer  less  disturbed  countries  ;  but  these  are  generally 
to  be  reached  by  a  ride  of  a  few  miles,  and  the  facilities  in 
obtaining  beaters,  carriage,  and  supplies,  more  than  compen- 
sate for  the  little  extra  trouble  in  reaching  the  ground. 

The  trip  that  I  have  thus  briefly  sketched  might  be 
thoroughly  made  out  by  the  end  of  May.  Soon  after  this  the 
rains  may  be  expected,  and  by  this  time  the  hunters  will 
probably  have  had  enough  of  it.  Should  they  not  care  to 
remain  in  the  country  till  next  cold  season,  two  or  three  days 
will  bring  them  back  to  Bombay ;  and  at  the  end  of  the 
three  weeks'  journey  home  they  will  arrive  in  town  for  the 
best  part  of  the  season,  and  can  have  an  opportunity  of  dis- 


6  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

playing  their  sunburnt  faces  to  their  friends  in  "  The  Row," 
as  they  gracefully  loll  against  the  railings  at t(  Fool's-corner." 

I  calculate  that  the  cost  of  such  a  trip  as  I  have  described 
would  not  be  much  more  for  the  season  than  that  of  a  moor 
in  Scotland  ;  certainly  less  than  a  deer-forest.  After  provid- 
ing for  their  passage-money  to  and  from  India,  and  the  small 
outfit  they  would  require,  £50  per  man  per  mensem  would  be 
ample  for  all  charges.  During  the  cold  weather,  when  em- 
ployed after  antelope  and  small  game,  the  expenses  would  not 
amount  to  that  sum.  Large  game  shooting  is  more  expensive, 
as  rewards  have  to  be  given  to  shikarees  to  keep  them  lively, 
beaters  have  to  be  paid  for,  young  buffaloes  for  baits,  and 
various  incidental  charges ;  but  for  antelope,  gazelle,  nylghae, 
and  duck,  snipe,  and  quail  shooting,  the  expenses  are  but 
little,  as  beaters  can  be  got  from  the  villages  at  about  4d.  a 
head,  and,  except  for  quail-shooting,  very  few  are  required. 

If  large  game  is  shot  in  British  territory,  the  Government 
rewards  would  considerably  diminish  the  expenses.  Fifty 
rupees  are  given  for  tigers,  15  for  panthers,  12  for  bears,  and 
5  for  wolves  and  hyaenas. 

If  the  sportsman  does  not  intend  to  hunt  hogs,  he  can 
mount  himself  well  on  the  ponies  of  the  country  at  about  £10 
a  head,  and  two  such  ponies  ought  to  do  all  his  work. 

A  riding  camel  is  a  most  useful  beast  in  camp,  and  a  good 
one,  with  easy  paces,  should  be  got  in  Central  India  for  about 

£15. 

COLD  WEATHER  EXCURSION. 

For  antelope-shooting  a  light  cart  is  very  desirable,  and  a 
pair  of  good  strong  bullocks,  fast  walkers.  The  deer  are 
generally  in  open  places,  where  hardly  any  cover  can  be  found 
to  conceal  the  stalker.  They  are  accustomed  to  see  the  carts 
of  the  villagers,  and  are  not  scared  by  them,  but  allow  them 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  7 

to  approach  within  100  yards.  The  hunters  can  either  shoot 
separately  or  in  pairs.  If  they  are  content  with  alternate 
first  shots  (which  is  in  my  opinion  the  more  pleasant  and 
sociable  arrangement),  one  cart  and  a  pair  of  bullocks  are 
sufficient  for  every  two  guns.  The  sportsmen  should  have 
their  own  bullocks  for  this  purpose,  and  they  should  be 
good  and  highly  fed.  With  the  light  shooting  cart  they  will 
travel  across  country  all  day,  and,  being  accustomed  after  a 
short  time  to  the  European  faces  and  the  crack  of  the  rifles, 
they  will  not  shy  or  give  trouble  when  approaching  deer. 
By  hiring  the  village  bullocks  as  required,  a  good  shot  is  often 
lost,  and  the  driver  being  ignorant  of  his  work  is  a  constant 
source  of  irritation  to  the  sportsman.  The  cart  such  as  I  have 
described  might  be  bought  in  Surat  or  Ahmedabad  for  £3  or 
£4,  and  a  pair  of  really  good  bullocks  would  cost  about  £16  ; 
but  they  would  be  readily  sold  at  the  end  of  the  season. 
Similarly,  ponies  might  be  got  rid  of  without  loss ;  but  a  market 
cannot  always  be  found  for  the  more  expensive  Arab  horses, and 
these  are  not  absolutely  necessary  in  a  shooting  excursion. 

Leaving  the  tents,  the  hunters  may  ride,  their  rifles  being 
carried  by  their  attendants.  On  seeing  deer,  they  should  dis- 
mount at  some  distance,  and,  making  over  their  ponies  to 
the  grooms,  and  leaving  all  superfluous  men  with  them, 
the  guns  alone  should  advance  with  the  cart.  They  should 
not  go  straight  at  the  deer,  but  make  as  though  they  would 
drive  past  them,  the  hunters  always  keeping  the  cart  between 
them  and  the  deer.  They  must  on  no  account  drop  behind 
or  walk  apart  from  the  cart,  or  the  deer  will  be  uneasy  and 
suspicious. 

Should  the  deer  commence  to  move,  and  cross  the  front 
of  the  cart,  no  attempt  must  be  made  to  head  them.  If  they 
have  the  slightest  idea  that  they  are  being  driven,  they  will 


8  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

move  off,  and  that  herd  will  not  again  be  easily  approached. 
But  by  edging  off  behind  them  no  alarm  will  be  caused.  If 
there  are  two  guns  with  the  cart,  the  shooter  should  walk 
last,  and  both  should  be  on  the  far  side  of  the  cart  from  the 
deer. 

When  an  opportunity  presents  itself,  the  shooter  should 
raise  his  rifle  just  behind  the  driver,  and  by  the  time  the  tail 
of  the  cart  is  clear  of  him  he  will  have  probably  fired.  The 
cart  should  not  be  stopped,  nor  should  the  shooter,  if  possible, 
drop  behind  to  fire,  as,  except  in  districts  where  the  deer  are 
but  little  disturbed,  such  a  proceeding  would  at  once  make 
them  on  the  alert,  and  they  would  begin  to  move  off. 

After  a  herd  of  antelope  has  been  fired  at  once,  they 
should  not  be  again  followed  at  the  time.  They  will  not 
again  stand  for  another  shot,  but  will  keep  moving  ahead ; 
and  by  their  scared  appearance  they  will  alarm  and  carry  on 
with  them  all  deer  within  sight  in  the  line  of  country  they 
may  take.  On  the  herd  going  off,  therefore,  whether  any 
have  been  bagged  or  not,  their  direction  should  be  observed, 
and  an  opposite  line  taken  by  the  hunters.  Picking  out  the 
best  bucks  from  every  herd,  a  dozen  or  more  good  shots  may 
be  got  in  a  day  ;  and  one  great  advantage  of  the  cart  is  that 
on  a  buck  being  killed  he  can  at  once  be  placed  in  it,  and  the 
party  can  proceed  in  quest  of  more  game  without  delay. 

On  the  shot  being  fired,  the  ponies  should  be  brought  up 
at  once  ;  but  if  during  the  stalk  the  herd  should  move  towards 
the  spot  where  they  have  been  left,  the  grooms  should  go 
quietly  to  a  distance,  as  I  have  always  found  deer  much  scared 
by  the  sight  of  horses  standing  about  the  plain. 

Grooms  should  always  carry  a  good  hog-spear ;  there  are 
many  occasions  when  it  is  handy.  Antelope  with  a  hind  leg 
broken  will  give  a  good  horse  a  run  for  miles  ;  with  a  foreleg 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  .  9 

broken  they  will  go  long  distances,  but  should  the  ground  be 
rough  they  are  sooner  distressed.  It  will  seldom  be  found 
necessary  to  spear  a  wounded  buck  in  a  run,  as  he  generally 
gives  in  when  he  finds  the  horse  close  with  him.  He  will 
then  throw  himself  down  in  some  bush  or  patch  of  grass,  and 
may  be  laid  hold  of.  It  is  well,  however,  to  carry  the  spear, 
for  at  times  it  may  come  in  useful.  Antelope  shot  through 
the  body  should  not  be  ridden  at  once  ;  if  watched,  they  will 
probably  lie  down,  and  in  half  an  hour  may  be  picked  up. 

The  foregoing  remarks  also  apply  to  the  pursuit  of  the 
chinkara  or  gazelle,  and  the  nylghae.  The  does  of  all  these 
antelope  are  generally  easier  to  be  got  at  than  the  bucks,  but, 
except  for  food,  the  sportsman  would  not  care  to  shoot  them  ; 
and  in  Guzerat  there  are  few  places  where  a  good  buck  cannot 
be  found,  and  in  many  he  may  come  home  with  four,  six,  or 
eight  in  his  cart.  When  the  herd  is  shy,  the  does  generally 
lead  off  in  the  flight. 

In  the  course  of  a  day's  shooting  the  hunter  will  frequently 
come  across  water,  and,  taking  a  smooth-bore  either  in  the 
cart  or  carried  by  an  attendant,  he  may  vary  his  bag  by  a  couple 
of  hours  of  duck  or  snipe  shooting.  In  Kattyawar  he  will 
often  fall  in  with  bustard  and  floriken,  and  altogether  he  will 
have  no  cause  to  complain  of  the  scarcity  of  the  game.  Bustard, 
like  antelope,  may  be  approached  with  the  cart.  Large  shot 
will  bring  them  down. 

In  some  of  the  fresh-water  ponds  fish  are  plentiful,  and 
in  the  brackish  pools  in  some  of  the  rivers  towards  the  Gulf 
of  Cambay  huge  prawns  are  numerous.  For  the  capture  of 
these  I  always  carried  a  casting  net  in  the  shooting  cart,  and 
was  frequently  enabled  to  improve  my  dinner  by  an  extra 
course. 

In  some  parts  of  Guzerat  the  natives  of  the  Bunneah  caste 


10  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

are  much  averse  to  the  destruction  of  animal  life,  and  en- 
deavour in  every  way  in  their  power  to  thwart  the  sportsman  ; 
and,  as  they  are  generally  the  grain-dealers  and  money-lenders 
of  the  place,  they  have  sometimes  considerable  influence  among 
the  rest  of  the  inhabitants,  and  can  occasion  small  annoyances 
by  withholding  milk  and  other  supplies  from  Europeans. 

When  an  intelligent  officer  is  in  charge  of  a  district,  these 
little  games  are  not  often  tried  on,  and  these  gentlemen  are 
not  allowed  to  annoy  others  who  may  not  have  the  same 
religious  views  as  themselves.  But  occasions  have  been 
known  when,  in  a  fit  of  fervour,  they  have  not  hesitated  to 
incite  the  villagers  to  personal  violence  against  Europeans 
who  had  offended  them,  either  by  the  pursuit  of  game  or  the 
slaughter  of  some  obnoxious  Pariah  dog  who  had  intruded 
his  impure  presence  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp. 

Sportsmen  would  do  well  always  to  shun  the  close  proxi- 
mity of  villages,  even  though  good  shade  may  not  be  obtained 
at  a  distance.  During  the  presence  of  cholera  and  other 
epidemics,  the  cleanliness  of  an  encampment  is  a  great 
guarantee  to  health,  and  all  ground  near  any  native  town  or 
village  is  more  or  less  filthy. 

The  water-supply  should  be  carefully  attended  to,  every 
care  being  taken  to  secure  it  as  pure  as  possible,  and  the 
attendants  should  be  discouraged  from  coming  more  in  con- 
tact with  the  villagers  than  is  necessary  for  procuring  the 
requisite  supplies  of  food,  etc. 

HOT  WEATHER  EXCURSION. 

The  success  of  the  European  hunter  in  quest  of  large  game 
in  India  will  depend  greatly  on  the  ability  and  diligence 
of  his  shikarees,  and  their  subordinates.  If  the  ability  exists, 
rupees  will  generally  draw  out  the  other  requisite. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          11 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  best  season  for  shooting  is 
in  the  hottest  months  of  the  year,  and  during  that  time  the 
work  of  following  and  hunting  beasts,  when  their  exact 
locality  has  been  ascertained  by  the  shikarees,  will  be  found 
sufficient  exertion.  This  does  not  refer  to  bison,  sambur,  and 
chetul  shooting,  as  they  are  generally  shot  when  stalking  in 
the  early  mornings  or  evenings.  But  with  tigers,  bears,  and 
panthers,  the  best  plan  is  to  have  the  game  marked  down  by 
the  shikarees ;  and  if  good  men  are  employed,  they  will, 
except  in  very  difficult  countries,  always  succeed  in  following 
a  beast  to  the  spot  where  it  lies  up  for  the  day. 

Various  methods  are  adopted,  but  I  have  found,  for  tigers 
and  panthers,  that  baiting  the  country  brings  more  game 
to  the  bag  than  any  other  plan.  This  is  done  by  the  shikarees, 
who,  on  arriving  on  fresh  ground,  proceed  to  hunt  up  the 
country  far  and  wide  for  tracks,  and  by  careful  examination 
of  the  ground,  and  assiduously  "  pumping"  the  cowherds,  toler- 
ably accurate  estimates  of  the  prospect  of  sport  can  generally 
be  formed. 

The  presence  of  a  tiger  in  the  country  having  been  ascer- 
tained, young  buffaloes  must  be  procured,  and  these  can  be 
bought  at  from  three  to  six  rupees  each,  according  to  their  size 
and  the  rapacity  of  their  owners.  They  are  tied  up  in  the  after- 
noons at  the  meetings  of  paths  or  ravines,  and  near  pools 
which  the  tigers  frequent,  being  attracted  both  by  the  water 
and  the  herds  of  deer  and  pigs  which  co-me  down  to  slake  their 
thirst.  They  should  be  tied  by  a  stout  cord  to  some  stump  or 
root,  so  that  if  possible  they  may  not  get  the  rope  into  a  com- 
plication. They  should,  moreover,  be  tied  in  an  open  space, 
so  that  they  may  be  seen  from  a  distance.  Sometimes,  on  the 
approach  of  a  tiger,  they  will  lie  down,  and  by  keeping  still 
escape  observation. 


12  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

The  tiger  will,  however,  generally  kill  the  buffalo  and  de- 
vour half  of  him,  always  beginning  at  the  point  of  the  buttock 
or  inside  the  thigh.  If  the  rope  is  not  very  strong,  he  will 
break  it  and  drag  off  the  carcass  to  some  covert ;  but  in  either 
case,  if  he  is  not  disturbed,  and  eats  well,  he  will  lie  up  in  the 
nearest  spot  where  he  can  get  good  shade,  or  shade  and  water 
combined. 

By  the  first  streak  of  dawn  the  shikarees  will  be  out  ex- 
amining the  country,  and  looking  after  the  baits.  All  the 
buffaloes  found  alive  should  be  taken  to  a  cool  spot  for  the 
day,  and  they  should  be  well  fed  and  watered.  If  one  has 
been  killed,  the  shikarees  will  quietly  approach  the  spot,  and 
endeavour  to  find  out  where  the  footprints  lead  to.  Especial 
care  is  requisite  at  this  early  hour,  as  in  the  cool  of  the  morn- 
ing the  tiger,  unless  very  lazy  and  much  gorged,  is  apt  to 
move  if  disturbed,  and  there  may  be  great  difficulty  in  again 
marking  him  down  that  day. 

Towards  seven  or  eight  o'clock  the  sun  will  be  powerful, 
and  the  shikarees  may  advance  nearer.  Should  the  tracks 
lead  into  a  thick  covert  or  mass  of  rocks,  or  other  spot  where 
the  tiger  may  be  supposed  to  have  lain  up,  the  shikarees  will 
proceed  to  ring  the  game  by  carefully  examining  the  ground 
for  footprints,  at  some  distance  all  round  the  covert.  If  no 
footprints  are  to  be  seen,  and  the  place  is  in  their  opinion  a 
good  one,  they  will  quietly  mount  trees  commanding  a  good 
view  of  the  ground. 

The  tiger  will  probably  change  his  position,  and,  if  there 
be  a  pool  of  water,  will  come  out  to  drink  and  roll  in  it ;  or 
some  inquisitive  crow  will  perch  over  him,  and  drawing 
attention  by  cawing,  will  indicate  his  position  to  the  shikarees, 
who,  on  being  certain  of  his  presence,  will  send  off  one  of 
their  number  to  camp  to  bring  up  the  hunters. 


AD  VENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          13 

Some  men  in  India  insist  on  each  shikaree  always 
carrying  with  him  a  supply  of  water  in  a  leathern  bottle. 
With  that  and  his  pipe  a  native  will  sit  in  a  tree,  and  keep 
watch  over  a  beast  for  a  whole  day.  Without  the  water  they 
may  be  tempted  to  go  in  search  of  it,  and  the  game  may 
move  unobserved,  to  the  eventual  disappointment  of  the 
hunters.  If  the  party  can  command  the  services  of  more  than 
one  really  good  shikaree,  it  is  well  to  assign  to  each  a  line  of 
country,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  be  jealous,  and  sometimes 
spoil  sport. 

By  this  means  I  have  been  able  to  cover  a  considerable 
district,  and  by  having  a  horseman  at  the  head-quarters  of 
each  detachment  ready  to  start  off  at  once  to  the  main  camp 
with  intelligence  from  the  shikarees,  the  prospect  of  the  day's 
sport  may  be  known  by  9  A.M.,  by  which  time  the  hunters 
will  have  breakfasted  comfortably,  and  the  sun  will  be 
sufficiently  hot  to  prevent  game  from  moving  to  any  great 
distance  if  disturbed.  By  following  the  above  plan  I  have 
received  information  from  three  places  at  once  of  tigers 
marked  during  the  morning. 

I  had  more  men  and  horses  at  my  disposal  than  a  stranger 
could  expect,  but  even  on  a  small  scale  the  plan  will  be  found 
a  good  one  ;  and  in  many  parts  of  the  country  a  man  on  foot 
will  not  take  much  longer  than  a  horseman  to  run  into  camp 
with  intelligence. 

There  are  of  course  occasions  when  game  has  to  be  beaten 
for  "  on  spec,"  and  I  have  frequently  made  a  good  bag  though 
leaving  the  camp  with  but  slender  expectations. 

On  arriving  on  the  ground  selected  for  the  day,  the  party 
should  quietly  dismount  and  hold  a  long  palaver  with  the 
shikaree.  This  time  is  not  thrown  away.  Then  the  ground 
should  be  carefully  but  quietly  examined,  and  the  run  of  the 


14  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

beasts  ascertained.  There  is  generally  some  covert  not  far 
off,  which  the  tigers  may  be  expected  to  make  for  when  started, 
and  all  this  information  can  usually  be  gathered  from  some 
of  the  natives  of  the  spot,  who  will  have  been  induced  by  the 
shikarees  to  assist  them  in  marking  the  game. 

Tigers  are  found  in  great  variety  of  ground.  At  times  I 
have  found  them  lying  almost  in  the  open,  or  in  ground  quite 
clear  of  under-covert ;  on  other  occasions  they  lie  in  high 
grass  or  in  dense  bushes.  Bocks,  caves,  and  ravines  with 
water,  are  favourite  spots,  and  above  all  the  tiger  seems  to  de- 
light in  the  thick  shade  of  willows  and  cypress  as  found  in 
large  masses  in  the  partly  dried-up  beds  of  rivers. 

The  mode  of  attack  will  depend  on  the  ground  and  the 
means  at  the  disposal  of  the  hunters,  but  much  of  the  success 
of  an  expedition  will  rest  on  having  at  least  one  good  elephant ; 
and  to  insure  this,  I  would  recommend  the  hunters,  before 
leaving  England,  to  endeavour  to  get  a  good  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  the  Governor  of  the  Presidency  where  they  may 
intend  to  shoot.  There  are  some  good  elephants  in  the  Com- 
missariat department,  and  I  believe  one  or  more  of  these 
might  be  got  for  their  keep — say  5s.  each  per  day.  Many  of 
the  native  chiefs  have  good  elephants,  and  if  they  know  that 
they  will  be  well  used  they  will  generally  lend  them  in  their 
own  territory  ;  but,  if  possible,  I  think  it  would  be  preferable  to 
obtain  one  from  the  Commissariat.  This  arrangement  should 
be  made  at  once  on  landing  in  India,  and  if  necessary  a 
howdah  should  be  made  during  the  cold  weather,  and  all  the 
gear  got  ready  before  the  month  of  February. 

None  but  really  staunch  elephants  should  be  employed — 
a  runaway  is  most  dangerous — and  a  good  and  plucky  mahout 
is  essential.  An  elephant  will  no  more  go  steadily  up  to  a 
tiger  when  driven  by  a  funky  mahout  than  a  horse  will  at 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          15 

his  fences  when  ridden  by  a  bad  and  nervous  rider  ;  and  the 
least  hesitation  or  retrograde  movement  on  the  part  of  the 
elephant  at  a  critical  moment  may  spoil  or  lose  a  shot,  and 
perhaps  enable  a  vicious  tiger  to  get  in  and  make  good  his 
charge. 

The  elephant  is  generally  required  to  drive  a  tiger  out  of 
cypress,  long  grass,  or  scrub  jungle  ;  but  the  great  advantage 
of  having  him  with  the  party  is  that,  on  a  tiger  being  wounded, 
he  can  be  followed  up  at  once.  It  is  madness  to  follow  on 
foot  a  wounded  tiger  into  long  grass  or  dense  bush,  and  I 
have  known  many  fatal  accidents  from  such  rashness.  I 
well  know  that  it  is  hard  to  leave  a  bloody  track,  but  without 
an  elephant,  no  tiger  ought  to  be  followed  into  such  ground 
as  I  have  described.  They  may  sometimes  be  followed  up 
successfully,  if  the  mass  of  hunters  and  beaters  will  keep 
together,  but  no  reliance  can  be  placed  on  such  a  scratch 
pack ;  and  I  have  seen  a  crowd  of  beaters  start  and  scatter  in 
a  moment  at  the  mere  growl  of  an  angry  tiger.  With  an 
elephant  there  is  no  danger  to  speak  of.  The  wounded  tiger 
can  be  almost  always  followed  and  brought  to  bag,  unless  he 
has  managed  to  escape  into  some  cave  or  mass  of  rocks. 

In  many  places  the  elephant  may  not  be  required  at  first, 
or  till  the  tiger  is  wounded.  The  covert  may  be  surrounded 
by  trees,  and  no  better  "coign  of  vantage"  can  be  found. 
The  experienced  hunter  will  at  once  detect  a  good  seat  on 
some  branch  for  himself  and  gunbearer. 

If  the  party  consists  of  two  or  three  guns,  straws  may  be 
drawn  for  places.  This  is  a  good  plan  ;  it  prevents  all  dis- 
cussions as  to  who  gets  the  best  chance  of  the  shot.  When 
the  elephant  is  required,  the  choice  of  tree  or  howdah  can 
similarly  be  determined  by  straws. 

Should  guns  not  be  available  to  command  all  the  passes, 


16  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

intelligent  natives  may  be  posted  on  trees  in  one  or  more 
with  orders  to  cough  or  tap  with  a  stick  on  a  branch.  This 
will  generally  be  sufficient  to  turn  the  tiger  on  the  shooters. 

On  the  guns  being  placed,  the  beaters  should  commence 
at  some  distance  from  the  spot  where  they  know  the  tiger  to 
be ;  the  more  noise  they  can  make  the  better.  If  suddenly 
roused,  the  tiger  may  dash  by  the  guns  and  give  an  uncertain 
shot ;  but  by  commencing  to  beat  at  a  distance,  he  has  time  to 
rise,  and  move  off  quietly ;  and,  as  they  seldom  look  up,  he 
will  at  times  come  under  the  very  tree  from  which  the  hunter 
quietly  awaits  his  approach.  By  this  means  I  have  shot 
tigers  within  fifteen  feet  of  the  muzzle  of  my  gun,  before  they 
were  aware  of  my  presence. 

If  the  tiger  is  wounded  and  goes  on,  the  elephant  must  be 
called  into  requisition,  and  all  beaters  left  behind.  Neglect 
of  this  precaution  will  often  be  followed  by  bad  accidents. 

Bears  may  often  be  shot  on  foot,  and  by  two  guns  together, 
with  comparative  safety ;  but  they  are  tenacious  of  life  at 
times,  and  savage  when  wounded.  They  generally  select  a 
quiet  spot  to  lie  up,  but  care  little  for  heat,  notwithstanding 
their  black  colour  and  long  hair.  When  convenient,  they  in- 
habit caves  and  rocks,  but  I  have  often  shot  them  in  grass, 
where  they  had  been  lying  throughout  the  day  exposed  to  all 
the  power  of  the  Indian  summer  sun. 

Most  of  the  remarks  which  I  have  written  regarding  tigers 
apply  also  to  panthers.  The  latter  are  most  savage  and 
dangerous  animals,  and  too  much  precaution  cannot  be  taken 
in  hunting  them.  They  can  conceal  themselves  anywhere, 
and  when  attacked  will  charge  repeatedly  and  in  the  most 
determined  manner. 

On  no  occasion  ought  the  beaters  to  be  exposed  to  danger 
more  than  is  necessary,  and  they  ought  never  on  any  account 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          17 

to  be  sent  into  a  covert  where  a  wounded  beast  is  known  to 
be.  In  India  news  travels  fast,  and  the  report  of  a  beater 
killed  or  mauled  will  precede  the  hunter  from  camp  to  camp. 
If  the  natives  hear  that  their  lives  are  likely  to  be  recklessly 
exposed,  they  will  not  assemble  to  beat,  and  the  shikarees 
will  find  great  difficulty  in  obtaining  men  to  assist  them  in 
marking  game. 

If  a  tiger  has  only  been  slightly  wounded,  he  will  do  mis- 
chief ;  if  badly,  he  will  probably  be  found  dead  next  day ;  but 
he  should  never  be  followed  up  into  thick  covert,  unless  with 
an  elephant ;  and  all  men  on  foot  should  be  directed  to  mount 
trees  or  keep  well  out  of  the  way.  I  purpose  illustrating  the 
truth  of  these  remarks  by  anecdotes  which  have  come  within 
my  own  experience ;  and  as  I  bear  the  marks  of  both  teeth 
and  claws,  I  hope  my  observations  may  have  weight  in 
warning  any  gentlemen  who  may  be  desirous  of  entering  on 
a  sporting  campaign  in  the  East  of  the  danger  of  rashly 
exposing  themselves  or  their  followers  when  in  pursuit  of 
savage  beasts. 

A  bad  accident  to  one  of  the  party  entails  the  removal  of 
the  sufferer,  if  not  killed  on  the  spot,  to  the  nearest  canton- 
ment where  medical  aid  can  be  obtained.  His  friends  have  to 
accompany  him,  and  the  expedition  is  either  at  an  end  or 
much  valuable  time  is  lost.  With  common  and  reasonable 
care,  and  a  little  resolution  and  self-denial,  all  this  may  be 
prevented. 

PRESERVATION  OF  SKINS. 

A  few  remarks  on  the  preservation  of  skins  and  heads  (not 
human)  may,  I  think,  be  useful  here. 

Deer's  heads  may  be  cleaned  by  boiling  till  all  the  flesh 
leaves  the  skull;  but  the  base  of  the  horns  should  be  en- 

C( 


18  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

veloped  in  paste  to  prevent  bleaching  by  the  hot  water.  The 
nose  bones  should  be  carefully  looked  after,  and,  if  loose, 
should  be  fastened  in  with  glue.  If  wanting,  the  appearance 
of  the  head  is  much  spoiled.  Deer-skins  should  be  pegged 
out  in  the  shade,  hair  downwards,  with  wooden  pegs,  and 
rubbed  over  with  finely-powdered  alum. 

Tiger,  panther,  and  bear  skins  require  more  attention. 
The  beasts  may  be  killed  at  a  distance  from  home,  or  in  such 
a  locality  that  they  cannot  be  carried  out  without  much 
difficulty  and  probable  injury  to  the  skin.  In  such  a  case 
they  can  be  skinned  on  the  spot,  and  the  carcass  left  on  the 
ground.  When  shot,  a  tiger  should  never  be  allowed  to  lie 
on  hot  ground  or  rocks  in  the  sun.  The  heat  is  so  great, 
that  it  will  soon  blister  off  the  hair,  and  a  good  skin  may 
be  lost.  It  should  be  moved  very  carefully,  and  never  dragged 
on  the  ground  or  over  rocks.  When  tied  on  an  elephant,  care 
should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  ropes  from  chafing,  or  the  hair 
will  be  rubbed  off. 

Tigers  should  be  skinned  on  the  same  day  that  they  are 
shot.  The  after  appearance  of  the  skin  will  greatly  depend  on 
the  manner  in  which  it  is  taken  off.  The  hunter  should  him- 
self superintend  this  part  of  the  business,  or  only  entrust  it 
to  one  of  his  men  whom  he  may  have  previously  instructed. 
The  cutting  should  be  done  by  his  own  hand  as  follows  : — 

1st.  Place  the  beast  on  his  back,  and  cut  the  skin  from  the 
lower  lip  to  the  point  of  the  tail.  This  cut  should  open  the 
tail  to  its  extreme  point,  beyond  the  last  joint,  else  the  tip  is 
apt  to  go  bad,  and  the  hair  will  come  out. 

2d.  Cut  the  skin  down  the  middle  of  the  ball  of  the  fore 
paws,  and  so  down  the  leg  to  the  middle  of  the  chest. 

3d.  Cut  the  skin  from  the  inside  of  the  ball  of  the  hind 
feet,  inside  the  hock  and  up  the  middle  of  the  inside  of  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          19 

thigh,  falling  into  the  main  cut  about  six  inches  from  the  root 
of  the  tail. 

By  carefully  following  these  instructions,  it  will  be  seen 
that  when  the  skin  is  spread  out,  the  outline  is  not  jagged  or 
unseemly,  and  that  the  yellow  is  almost  entirely  surrounded 
by  a  band  of  white.  This  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the 
skin. 

Panthers  and  chetahs  may  be  done  the  same  way.  After 
the  skin  has  been  cut  as  described,  the  village  skinners  will 
do  the  rest. 

Black  bear  skins  are  generally  kept,  though  I  don't  know 
why,  unless  as  trophies,  for  they  are  not  useful  nor  ornamental, 
the  hair  being  long  and  coarse. 

When  taken  off,  all  skins  should  be  made  over  to  the 
village  chamars  or  skinners,  who  will  go  over  them  with  their 
own  peculiar  knives,  and  remove  from  them  all  flesh  and  fat 
which  may  be  adhering.  Each  man  should  have  an  inch- 
thick  board,  free  from  nails,  and  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches 
square,  to  work  upon.  The  ears  should  be  skinned  down  as 
far  as  possible,  as  also  the  toes,  each  separately,  and  the  bones 
removed  to  the  last  joint.  The  lips  should  be  pared  as  thin 
as  can  be  without  damaging  the  roots  of  the  moustache.  All 
bullet-holes  should  be  sewn  up  with  a  stout  needle  and  thread. 

On  the  skin  being  thoroughly  cleaned,  it  should  be  pegged 
out,  hair  downwards,  with  wooden  pegs  five  or  six  inches  in 
length.  A  large  number  of  these  pegs  should  always  be  kept 
ready.  The  pegging  out  should  be  done  with  care,  and  the 
legs  on  both  sides  should  be  stretched  in  the  same  positions, 
else  the  shape  of  the  skin  will  be  spoilt.  The  proper  propor- 
tions of  length  and  breadth  should  also  be  preserved. 

The  skin  should  be  pegged  down  in  some  spot  which  is 
completely  shaded  throughout  the  day ;  and  the  ears,  head, 


20  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

and  feet,  should  be  well  painted  over  with  a  strong  solution  of 
arsenical  soap.  The  rest  of  the  skin  may  be  rubbed  with 
finely-powdered  alum  ;  but  a  brush  over  with  arsenical  soap 
is  also  good.  The  soap  should  be  kept  in  a  tin  pail,  and  laid 
on  with  a  strong  brush. 

If  white  ants  are  numerous  about  the  spot,  men  or  boys 
should  be  employed  night  and  day  to  tap  the  skins  all  over 
with  a  light  stick  every  half-hour.  This  will  prevent  the 
ravages  of  these  insects,  otherwise  at  the  end  of  two  days,  on 
lifting  the  skin,  the  hair  may  be  found  eaten  off  in  large 
patches. 

After  two  days  the  skin  may  be  taken  up,  but  the  head 
and  neck  will  still  be  found  to  be  wet,  and  these  parts  should 
be  very  carefully  handled  at  this  time,  or  the  hair  will  rub  off. 
The  skin  should  now  be  placed,  hair  uppermost,  where  it  may 
get  just  a  little  sunning,  a  free  current  of  air  passing  under. 

In  about  three  days  it  should  be  quite  dry,  and  then  should 
be  placed  on  a  broad  litter  of  long  bamboos,  and  carried  on 
men's  shoulders  from  one  camp  to  another.  In  this  way  a 
dozen  or  more  skins  can  be  carried  by  four  men.  Should  a 
change  of  camp  be  necessaiy  before  the  skin  is  thoroughly 
dried,  it  can  be  taken  up,  and  by  placing  it  on  the  top  of  the 
heap,  and  abstaining  from  handling  it,  it  will  travel  in  safety, 
and  can  be  again  pegged  down  at  the  end  of  the  march.  This 
will  be  found  a  superior  method  to  any  other.  If  placed  on 
a  cart,  the  skins  will  be  much  rubbed  and  damaged. 

A  trustworthy  man  should  accompany  the  skins  when 
moving  from  camp  to  camp  ;  the  coolies  are  apt  to  singe  the 
moustaches  as  a  mark  of  contempt  or  defiance,  and  to 
steal  them  to  wear  as  charms.  When  in  camp,  tent-pegs 
should  be  driven  in  to  keep  the  litter  clear  of  the  ground,  so 
that  white  ants  cannot  get  at  the  skins. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          21 

Handsome  skins  should  be  brought  home  simply  dried  as 
above  described.  The  Indians  do  not  tan  well,  and  I  have 
seen  many  a  good  skin  spoilt.  Skins  packed  in  a  tin-lined 
box  with  camphor  should  arrive  in  good  order.  They  should 
be  folded,  not  rolled,  or  the  hard  points  in  the  leather  round 
the  peg-holes  may  rub  off  the  hair  in  other  places.  I  recom- 
mend Mr.  Stammwitz,  of  Argyle  Street,  as  a  good  man  to 
mount  skins.  He  does  them  well,  and  at  a  very  moderate 
charge. 

The  skulls  of  tigers,  bears,  and  panthers  may  be  cleaned 
by  boiling  after  the  fleshy  parts  have  been  removed  with  a 
knife.  As  soon  as  the  skull  is  cleaned,  the  whole  of  the  teeth 
should  be  covered  with  a  coating  of  beeswax  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  so  as  completely  to  exclude  the  hot  air,  else 
the  teeth  will  splinter  like  dry  wood.  This  operation  should 
be  performed  at  once.  Any  claws  that  are  loose  should  be 
removed  and  kept  separately,  or  the  natives  will  steal  them 
for  charms. 

A  peculiar  bone,  detached  from  all  others,  is  found  in  the 
muscles  of  the  shoulder,  in  tigers  and  panthers. 


CHAPTER    II. 

Arrival  in  India— March  to  Dliarwar — My  first  Antelope— Snaring  Antelope — 
Bustard— Scorpion-sting— Cheetul— Wild  Boar— "The  Old  Forest  Ranger" 
— Panther  Cubs — Jungle  and  Pea  Fowl — Monkeys— Shooting  at  Edeegut- 
tee — The  Dandelly  Jungles — We  awaken  the  Authorities — Emaum  and 
Moideen  — Mode  of  Shooting — Cheetul  shot — Bison  shot — Habits  of 
Sambur — Danger  from  a  carelessly-cleaned  Rifle — Bison  killed — Cow 
Bison — We  fire  the  Jangle — An  energetic  Kick — Bull  shot — Picnic  at  the 
Lake — Thunderstorm — Solitary  Bull  shot — A  Charging  Bull — Emaum's 
Device — Preservation  of  Skulls — Tiger  and  Deer — Pig  shot — Bison  shot — 
Indolence  of  Emaum — Return  to  Dharwar. 

ON  landing  in  India  on  the  8th  of  January  1847, 1  was  placed 
on  duty  in  the  garrison  of  Bombay,  where  I  remained  for  five 
months.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  having  been  posted  to  a 
regiment  in  the  Southern  Mahratta  country,  I  was  directed  to 
join.  Meeting  with  a  brother  officer  similarly  situated,  we 
hired  a  country  boat,  and  sent  our  baggage,  servants,  and 
horses  on  board. 

The  craft  was  a  botella,  or  ordinary  coasting  boat,  undecked, 
with  a  small  cabin  in  the  stern,  from  the  roof  of  which  the 
tiller  was  worked.  The  crew  consisted  of  about  ten  men,  and, 
the  wind  being  fair,  we  made  our  run  down  the  coast  in  about 
a  couple  of  days  to  Vingorla,  where  we  landed. 

It  was  my  first  visit  to  the  mainland  of  India,  and  having 
read  from  my  youth  up  of  its  varied  game,  I  longed  to  see 
and  judge  for  myself.  Hay  ward,  my  chum,  was  imbued  with 
a  like  spirit,  and  we  subsequently  made  many  excursions 
together. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          23 

We  were  detained  a  day  or  two  in  procuring  pack  bullocks 
to  carry  our  baggage  to  Belgaum,  and  in  the  meantime  had 
leisure  to  examine  the  new  country  and  its  inhabitants.  At 
the  travellers'  bungalow  we  met  an  officer  of  the  Belgaum 
garrison — a  very  sharp  fellow.  I  rode  with  him  one  evening, 
and  having  made  a  considerable  detour,  we  found  ourselves 
at  dusk  close  to  the  house,  but  separated  from  it  by  a  creek 
thirty  yards  wide,  which  we  had  crossed  further  up.  I  was 
not  aware  of  the  depth,  but  my  companion  told  me  to  go  on, 
and  assured  me  that  it  was  "  all  right."  In  another  moment 
the  water  was  over  my  saddle.  Finding  myself  in  for  it,  I  held 
on,  and,  half  swimming  my  horse,  reached  the  opposite  bank. 
Looking  back,  I  saw  my  friend  on  the  other  side.  "Ah!" 
cried  he,  "  the  water  is  deeper  than  I  thought ; "  with  which 
remark  he  rode  off  by  the  way  we  had  come,  while  I  returned 
alone  to  the  bungalow,  a  wetter  arid  a  wiser  man. 

The  march  to  Belgaum  occupied  five  days.  Not  knowing 
the  customs  of  the  country,  we  generally  rose  at  daylight, 
superintended  the  loading  of  the  bullocks,  and  then  marched 
with  them  till  about  10  A.M.,  by  which  time  we  had  got  over 
some  eight  miles.  If  we  came  to  a  suitable  stream,  we  un- 
loaded, had  a  bathe  in  the  river,  and  breakfasted,  moving  on 
again  to  the  next  staging  bungalow  in  the  afternoon.  We 
were  of  course  "  griffins,"  and  our  mode  of  procedure  was  that 
of  griffins  ;  but  what  cared  we?  We  enjoyed  ourselves 
thoroughly,  and  pursued  and  shot  doves  for  the  pot  with  a  zeal 
and  energy  worthy  of  a  better  cause. 

On  the  second  day  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  Earn  Ghaut, 
a  steep  pass  in  the  mountains,  leading  up  from  the  Concan 
to  the  table-land  of  the  Deccan.  I  believe  that,  had  we 
known  how  to  set  about  it,  we  might  have  got  bison  and 
sambur  here  ;  but  ignorance  was  bliss,  and  when  I  shot  a 


24  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

large  red  squirrel  at  the  foot  of  the  Ghaut,  I  was  happy  for  that 
clay,  and  busied  myself  with  taking  off  and  preparing  the  skin. 

The  jungles  below  the  hills  swarmed  with  fireflies,  lighting 
up  the  trees  on  dark  nights. 

We  reached  Belgaum  on  the  fifth  day,  and,  after  a  halt  of 
two  days,  proceeded  on  our  way  to  Dharwar,  fifty  miles,  which 
we  accomplished  in  three  marches. 

It  was  now  the  beginning  of  June,  the  rains  were  setting 
in,  and  not  much  shooting  was  to  be  got. 

To  the  east  of  Dharwar  is  a  vast  level  plain,  extending 
sixty  or  eighty  miles,  and  highly  cultivated.  In  parts  the 
antelope  are  numerous,  but  we  did  not  then  understand  the 
use  of  the  stalking-cart,  and  got  but  few.  I  well  remember 
my  satisfaction  on  bagging  my  first  black  buck.  He  was 
with  a  small  herd,  and  I  had  succeeded  in  getting  within  150 
yards  of  him.  Not  having  much  confidence  in  the  steadiness 
of  my  hand,  I  made  my  shikaree  lie  down  flat  on  his  face, 
and,  lying  down  myself  at  a  right  angle,  I  rested  the  rifle  on 
his  back.  On  being  struck,  the  buck  kicked  out  with  both 
hind  legs  like  a  jackass,  and  went  off  at  speed.  I  watched 
him  for  some  distance,  and  then,  supposing  I  had  missed  him, 
signalled  to  my  groom  to  bring  up  my  horse.  On  mounting 
I  observed  an  unusual  object  on  the  plain,  and  cantering  up 
I  found  the  buck  stone  dead. 

In  this  plain  the  deer  are  much  hunted  by  the  Hirun 
shikarees,  or  antelope  hunters,  who  snare  them  by  an  in- 
genious method.  To  a  line  about  200  yards  in  length,  made 
of  the  sinews  of  deer,  they  attach  snares,  to  each  of  which  is 
fastened  a  wooden  pin  eight  inches  or  ten  inches  long.  The 
snares  are  also  made  of  deer  sinews,  and  the  whole  is  very 
strong.  They  are  placed  at  intervals  of  about  eighteen  inches. 

When  carrying  the  line,  the  hunter  passes  his  left  arm 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          25 

through  all  the  snares,  so  that  it  is  covered  from  the  shoulder 
to  the  wrist.  A  stalking  bullock  is  employed,  and  is  led  by 
the  shikaree,  who  also  carries  a  number  of  sticks  five  feet  in 
length,  with  bunches  of  feathers  attached  to  one  end,  the  other 
being  pointed.  Stooping  on  the  far  side  of  the  bullock,  he 
proceeds  towards  the  herd,  and,  on  approaching  sufficiently 
near,  he  plants  the  sticks  into  the  ground,  20  or  30  yards 
apart.  Having  so  disposed  of  half  the  number  of  his  sticks, 
he  commences  to  lay  his  snares,  which  he  does  across  the 
plain,  dexterously  setting  each  in  the  ground  by  the  peg 
attached  to  it.  From  the  end  of  the  line  he  plants  his  re- 
maining bunches  of  feathers,  and  moves  off.  His  confederates 
then  show  themselves,  and,  by  simulating  the  movements  of 
cultivators,  quietly  drive  the  deer  towards  the  snares.  When 
they  calculate  that  the  proper  time  has  arrived,  they  howl 
and  run  forward,  and  turning  from  the  feathers  the  herd  runs 
over  the  snares,  one  or  two  deer  generally  being  caught  by 
the  leg.  The  snares  being  all  attached  to  the  main  line,  the 
deer  are  then  easily  caught. 

Bustard  are  taken  in  the  same  way,  but  the  driving  has 
to  be  quietly  conducted,  else  they  would  take  flight.  They 
are  fine  birds,  weighing  from  20  pounds  to  24  pounds  each.  1 
have  frequently,  when  stalking  them  in  comparatively  open 
ground,  suddenly  lost  sight  of  them,  and,  after  searching  in  vain 
for  some  time,  have  seen  them  rise  from  the  ground  I  had  just 
gone  over.  They  will  lie  flat  on  the  ground,  and  conceal 
themselves  in  a  marvellous  manner.  One  morning,  when 
riding  across  the  plain,  I  observed  one  walking  about  in  the 
open  ground.  I  moved  slowly  towards  him,  and  he  did  not 
rise  till  I  was  within  ten  yards.  I  have  often,  in  Central 
India,  had  good  shots  at  them  from  the  back  of  a  horse  or 
camel,  but  they  are  very  shy  of  a  man  on  foot. 


26  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

It  was  in  this  plain  of  Dharwar  that  I  made  my  first  and 
last  personal  acquaintance  with  the  sting  of  a  scorpion.  I 
was  seated  on  a  bank,  waiting  for  my  horse  to  be  brought  up, 
and  had  been  pounding  the  black  friable  turf  between  my 
feet  with  the  butt  of  my  rifle.  Scorpio  had  been  disturbed, 
and  quietly  walked  up  the  stock  and  stung  me  in  the  point  of 
the  finger.  I  instantly  shook  him  off,  and  stamped  upon  him  ; 
but  the  pain  was  most  acute,  and  shot  up  the  arm  at  once. 
Binding  a  handkerchief  tightly  round  the  finger,  I  sucked  the 
injured  part,  and  the  pain  began  to  subside  as  the  poison  was 
drawn  out.  In  half  an  hour  I  did  not  feel  it ;  but  some  time 
after  a  callosity  formed  over  the  spot.  Experiencing  a  peculiar 
sensation,  I  opened  this  one  day  with  a  penknife,  and  dug  out 
the  point  of  the  sting,  which  had  been  broken  off  and  remained 
in  the  wound. 

To  the  westward  of  Dharwar,  within  a  few  miles,  are  some 
good  lakes,  or  tanks  as  they  are  called,  much  frequented  by 
wild-fowl  in  the  cold  weather.  There  are  also  many  good 
snipe  grounds,  and  quail  and  florican  in  the  season  are  toler- 
ably plentiful,  though  by  no  means  in  such  numbers  as  in 
Guzerat.  About  ten  miles  to  the  westward  are  considerable 
jungles,  stretching  away  towards  the  Western  Ghauts.  In 
these  we  found  a  fair  amount  of  spotted  deer  and  pigs,  and 
also  jungle  sheep,  a  small  antelope  with  flat  goat-like  horns, 
three  inches  or  four  inches  in  length. 

We  generally  had  these  jungles  beat  by  a  number  of  men, 
taking  up  our  places  at  the  different  passes.  At  one  of  these 
beats  a  large  boar  and  a  couple  of  jungle  sheep  had  fallen  to 
my  rifle,  and  I  was  on  my  way  to  rejoin  the  other  guns  when  I 
came  on  a  herd  of  cheetul  or  spotted  deer  crossing  my  front 
about  sixty  yards  off.  They  were  just  over  the  brow  of  a  hill 
covered  with  grass  and  jungle,  and  sloping  abruptly  down  for 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          27 

150  yards.  Kuiming  in  a  few  paces,  I  fired  at  a  doe  ;  but  by 
the  time  the  smoke  had  cleared,  the  herd  was  out  of  sight.  I 
was  confident  that  I  had  held  straight ;  but  on  going  up  to 
the  spot  I  found  nothing.  I  followed  for  some  distance  in  the 
direction  which  the  herd  had  taken,  and,  finding  nothing, 
returned  along  the  base  of  the  hill.  Nearly  opposite  the  spot 
where  I  had  fired,  I  caught  sight  of  the  white  stern  of  a  deer 
among  some  long  grass,  and,  aiming  rapidly,  rolled  it  over. 
It  turned  out  to  be  the  same  deer  at  which  I  had  fired  above, 
and  my  first  shot  had  broken  both  fore  legs  close  to  the  body  ; 
notwithstanding  this,  she  had  managed  almost  instantaneously 
to  disappear,  and,  but  for  my  luck  in  coming  across  her,  would 
have  been  lost. 

In  the  next  drive  I  heard  a  shot  from  one  of  my  friends, 
and  soon  after  a  pariah  dog  which  had  accompanied  the  beaters 
came  down  in  my  direction,  giving  tongue  loudly,  and  evidently 
after  something.  Guided  by  the  sound,  I  rushed  off,  and  crash- 
ing through  a  thicket  came  into  an  open  spot,  thirty  yards 
across,  in  the  middle  of  which  stood  a  mighty  grey  boar.  He 
was  crippled  in  one  of  his  fore  legs,  but  was  able  to  keep  his 
head  to  the  dog,  on  whom  he  fixed  his  small  vicious  eyes,  his 
long  white  tusks  gleaming  in  the  sunlight.  The  instant  I  ap- 
peared, he  wheeled  round  towards  me,  and  I  believe  in  another 
moment  would  have  charged ;  but  a  shot  between  the  eyes 
bowled  him  over. 

Formerly  tigers  must  have  been  numerous  close  round 
Dharwar,  and,  though  we  never  fell  in  with  any,  our  old 
shikaree  always  endeavoured  to  soothe  the  pangs  of  disappoint- 
ment by  assuring  us  that  he  had  seen  many  shot  in  those 
self-same  coverts.  He  constantly  quoted  two  gentlemen, 
named  .Walker  and  Campbell,  as  having  been  mighty  hunters, 
and  I  fear  we  did  not  always  receive  the  accounts  of  their 
exploits  in  a  spirit  of  meekness. 


28  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  have  since  learned  that  Campbell  was  either  "  The  Old 
Forest  Ranger"  himself,  or  his  brother.  Both  were  well  known 
in  that  country. 

One  morning  a  man  came  running  into  the  fort,  and  in- 
formed us  that  a  panther  had  taken  up  her  abode  in  a  rocky 
hillock  about  ten  miles  from  the  cantonment.  Hayward  and 
I  started  off  with  a  friend  who  was  staying  with  us,  and  on 
arriving  at  the  village  we  were  conducted  to  the  place  by  half 
a  dozen  semi-nude  savages.  The  hillock  was  not  more  than 
fifty  feet  high,  and  was  situated  close  to  the  edge  of  the  heavy 
jungle.  The  summit  was  a  mass  of  rocks  and  green  bushes. 
As  we  were  all  on  foot,  and  could  not  tell  the  exact  spot  in 
which  the  beast  might  be  expected,  we  formed  up  three 
abreast,  and  advanced  very  cautiously  in  expectation  of  a 
charge.  Ascending  the  hillock,  we  peered  about  among  the 
rocks  for  some  time  without  seeing  anything.  At  length  we 
found  a  small  den  formed  by  several  masses  of  rock,  and  as 
our  eyes  became  accustomed  to  the  darkness  we  spied  what 
we  supposed  to  be  the  head  of  a  panther.  We  were  on  the 
point  of  firing  when  the  object  moved,  and  we  then  discovered 
it  to  be  two  small  cubs  lying  together,  and  apparently  asleep. 
We  captured  these  without  much  trouble,  and  then  hunted 
about  the  jungle  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  in  hopes  of 
getting  the  mother,  but  she  never  showed ;  so,  tying  up  her 
offspring  in  a  blanket,  we  carried  them  off  to  the  cantonment. 

In  these  jungles  were  numerous  pea  and  jungle  fowl,  and 
frequently,  when  we  were  waiting  for  larger  game  at  passes, 
they  would  come  by  in  long  strings,  passing  close  under  the 
trees  on  which  we  were  seated.  Troops,  too,  of  the  "lungoor" 
or  large  grey  monkey  would  come  dancing  along,  with  black 
careworn  countenances.  It  was  interesting  to  watch  them 
unobserved — grey  old  patriarchs  and  youthful  mothers,  with 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          29 

their  young  clinging  convulsively  to  their  necks  and  waists  as 
they  bounded  along.  To  see  them  spring  from  tree  to  rock,  it 
seemed  a  marvel  that  the  infants  did  not  get  their  brains 
knocked  out. 

About  three  miles  to  the  south  of  Dharwar  are  the  Edee- 
guttee  jungles,  which  we  generally  found  good  for  spotted 
deer  and  pigs ;  but  the  coverts  were  very  thick,  and  consisted 
almost  entirely  of  corinda  bushes.  These  grow  to  the  height 
of  about  twenty  feet,  and  are  evergreen.  The  leaves  are  about 
two  inches  in  length,  and,  while  the  outer  part  of  the  bush 
appears  impenetrable,  the  interior  is  generally  hollow,  and 
affords  cool  shade  to  wild  animals  during  the  day.  The 
branches  are  armed  with  strong  thorns. 

We  were  driving  this  jungle  one  morning,  when  five 
spotted  deer  came  by  me.  I  was  standing  at  the  top  of  a 
rising  ground,  but  the  bush  on  all  sides  was  so  dense  that  I 
could  only  get  a  view  at  one  or  two  places,  and  then  only  for 
distances  two  or  three  yards  in  width. 

I  had  my  eye  on  one  of  these  openings,  and  as  the  deer 
crossed  had  a  snap-shot  at  a  fine  buck.  I  had  hardly  time  to 
see  whether  he  was  hit,  but  on  the  beaters  coming  up,  we 
examined  the  track  for  a  short  distance  and  found  blood.  As 
we  followed  the  prints,  the  buck  dashed  out  of  a  thick  bush, 
and  I  again  fired,  taking  him  behind  the  shoulder,  but  without 
dropping  him.  He  then  got  away  into  a  very  dense  mass  of 
bushes,  but  was  discovered  by  some  of  the  beaters,  and,  after 
assuring  myself  that  the  opposite  side  was  clear,  I  again  fired 
and  finished  him.  On  examination,  we  found  the  three  balls 
had  entered  behind  the  shoulder,  within  three  inches  of  each 
other.  Considering  that  I  was  shooting  with  a  14-bore  gun, 
his  tenacity  of  life  was  wonderful. 

Immediately  to  the  south  of  Edeeguttee,  about  three  miles, 


30  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

runs  a  range  of  very  stony  hills,  with  deep  ravines  filled  with 
rocks  and  bushes.  In  these  we  frequently  shot  pigs.  On 
different  occasions  we  started  panthers,  but  never  succeeded  in 
bagging  one.  Hysenas  were  less  fortunate,  and  we  slew 
several.  Langton,  of  my  regiment,  shot  a  very  large  one, 
whose  striped  sides  he  had  at  first  mistaken  for  a  tiger.  As 
he  wished  to  preserve  the  skin,  we  proceeded  to  remove  it  on 
the  ground,  and  had  taken  it  off  all  but  the  tail,  round  the 
root  of  which  a  rope  was  tied,  and,  while  Langton  and  I  held 
on  to  the  rope,  half-a-dozen  natives  hauled  bravely  at  the 
head  and  legs.  The  skin  was  strong  and  tough  ;  but  at  last 
it  stripped  off,  and  came  away  with  a  run,  the  beaters  tumbling 
backwards  down  the  hill  in  a  heap,  while  we  rolled  over  in 
the  opposite  direction. 

A  hare  rose  at  my  feet  one  morning  near  these  hills,  and 
as  she  went  off  at  speed  I  bowled  her  over  with  a  bullet. 

But  the  happy  hunting-grounds  of  Dharwar  lay  in  the 
Dandelly  jungles,  thirty-five  miles  to  the  S.W.  Hay  ward 
and  I  had  long  been  anxious  to  visit  them,  but  they  were 
said  to  be  malarious,  and  our  commandant  was  shy  of  giving 
us  leave.  In  those  days  we  did  not  believe  in  fevers,  or  at 
any  rate  were  quite  willing  to  risk  them  in  the  hope  of  sport ; 
so  perhaps  it  was  as  well  that  we  did  not  get  our  own  way, 
for  I  believe  that  till  the  ground  is  thoroughly  dry  the  jungles 
are  not  safe. 

It  was  towards  the  end  of  April  that,  at  the  close  of  a  long 
march,  we  reached  Hullihal,  about  six  miles  from  the  bunga- 
low, on  the  banks  of  the  Kala  ISTuddee. 

The  latter  is  a  noble  river,  flowing  through  the  heart  of 
the  jungle  where  we  were  to  shoot.  As  we  intended  to  push 
on  again  in  the  afternoon,  we  made  a  halt  under  some  trees, 
and  sent  one  of  our  servants  into  the  village  for  supplies. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          31 

After  a  long  time  our  messenger  returned,  saying  that  the 
native  government  official  declined  to  furnish  any,  adding 
that  he  had  stated  that  his  resolution  was  fixed,  even  if  a 
subsequent  request  should  be  made  by  our  parents.  Being 
hot  and  hungry,  I  suppose  we  were  displeased,  for  we  at  once 
set  out  to  see  the  gentleman  in  person.  We  found  him  in  his 
office — a  wide,  open,  verandah — seated  on  cushions,  and  sur- 
rounded by  minor  officials.  He  was  a  large  man,  and  his  sole 
garment  consisted  of  a  sheet,  apparently  embedded  in  folds  of 
fat  at  the  spot  where  his  waist  should  have  been,  and  hanging 
down  over  his  nether  man. 

He  gazed  on  our  dusty  coats  and  sun-browned  faces  with 
a  listless  apathy,  quietly  chewing  a  large  mouthful  of  betel 
nut ;  and  it  was  not  till  sundry  pokes  had  been  administered 
with  the  points  of  our  sticks  to  the  softer  portions  of  his 
capacious  person,  and  our  wants  had  been  reiterated  in  forcible 
and  emphatic  language,  that  the  requisite  orders  for  supplies 
were  given,  and  we  returned  to  our  people. 

Towards  the  arternoon  we  again  marched,  and  our  fat 
friend  sat  down  and  wrote  an  account  of  our  brutal  treatment 
to  the  collector  of  the  district.  Had  we  been  better  acquainted 
with  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  country,  we  should  have 
been  beforehand  with  him  ;  as  it  was,  we  forgot  all  about  the 
matter,  and  made  up  our  minds  for  a  pleasant  camp  in  the 
Dandelly. 

We  subsequently  received  an  official  letter  from  the  col- 
lector in  charge  of  the  district,  and  had  some  small  trouble  in 
settling  the  complaint  of  the  obese  gentleman,  who,  however, 
on  our  return  march  supplied  everything  at  once  on  our 
arrival  without  delay. 

At  a  village  a  few  miles  from  Hullihal  we  were  joined  by 
the  shikarees  of  the  country,  Messrs.  Emaum  and  Moideen. 


32  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

The  latter  was  an  intelligent  little  man,  and  well  acquainted 
with  the  jungles,  but  was  in  a  way,  I  believe,  under  subjec- 
tion to  Emaum,  who  was,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  a  very  remark- 
able man.  He  was  by  birth  almost  a  pure  negro,  with  all  the 
characteristics  of  the  race  both  in  face  and  person.  He 
generally  moved  in  light  marching  order,  his  dress  consisting 
of  an  unclean  turban,  and  a  strip  of  cloth  passed  under  a 
string,  which  he  wore  round  his  waist.  Over  his  shoulder  he 
carried  a  brown  blanket.  His  accoutrements  were  a  long  flint 
gun,  a  belt  with  sundry  bags  attached,  and  a  long  knife.  By 
Creed  a  Mahomedan,  he  was,  I  regret  to  say,  addicted  to  strong 
waters,  and  when  he  came  to  us  he  stipulated  that  his  daily 
wage  should  be  one  shilling  and  two  glasses  of  brandy.  He 
was,  however,  so  far  mindful  of  his  duty  to  his  employers  that 
he  never,  except  on  special  occasions,  took  his  drink  till  the 
day's  work  was  over.  He  seemed  much  pleased  at  the 
prospect  of  sport,  and  informed  us  that  he  had  a  strong  pre- 
dilection for  flesh — a  craving  which,  he  added,  had  not  been 
lately  gratified.  Moideen  was  the  son  of  old  Kamah,  men- 
tioned by  "  The  Old  Forest  Kanger,"  in  whose  words  the  fol- 
lowing anecdote  of  his  early  life  is  well  told  : — 

"  While  sitting  at  breakfast  we  were  alarmed  by  hearing 
cries  of  distress  proceeding  from  the  Jagheerdar's  hut,  and  on 
running  out  to  ascertain  the  cause,  we  found  old  Kamah  in  a 
furious  state  of  excitement,  his  left  hand  firmly  fixed  in  the 
woolly  pate  of  the  hopeful  scion  of  his  house,  and  belabouring 
him  soundly  with  a  stout  bamboo. 

"  We  inquired  what  crime  young  Moideen  had  been  guilty 
of,  to  bring  upon  him  such  a  storm  of  parental  indignation, 
and  learned,  to  our  astonishment,  that  it  was  all  owing  to  his 
having  killed  a  tiger  ! 

"  One  of  his  father's  tame  buffaloes  having  been  killed  by 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          33 

a  tiger  on  the  previous  day,  the  young  savage  had  watched 
for  him  during  the  night,  and  shot  him  from  a  tree  when  he 
returned  to  feed  upon  the  carcass. 

"This  most  people  would  have  considered  a  very  gallant 
and  meritorious  exploit  on  the  part  of  a  lad  of  fifteen,  but  the 
old  forester  was  of  a  different  opinion. 

"  '  It  was  all  very  well/  *  he  said,  " '  for  us  who  lived  in  the 
open  country  to  wage  war  with  tigers,  but  with  him,  who  lived 
on  sociable  terms  with  them  in  the  jungle,  the  case  was 
different.  I  have  no  quarrel  with  tigers !  I  never  injured 
one  of  them,  they  never  injured  me,  and  while  there  was 
peace  between  us,  I  went  among  them  without  fear  of  danger. 

"  '  But  now  that  this  young  rascal  has  picked  a  quarrel  and 
commenced  hostilities  there  is  no  saying  where  the  feud  will 
end/ 

"And  for  this  breach  of  good  fellowship  between  the 
family  of  Kamah  and  his  feline  neighbours,  the  unfortunate 
youngster  was  being  beaten  to  a  mummy !" 

The  shooting  in  the  Dandelly  was  carried  on  entirely  by 
stalking.  We  rose  long  before  daybreak,  and  had  a  light 
refreshment ;  then  each  taking  one  shikaree,  we  set  off  in 
different  directions,  returning  home  about  9  or  10  A.M. 

The  principal  game  was  bison,  sambur,  cheetul  or  axis, 
and  pigs.  There  were  also  bears,  tigers,  and  panthers  ;  but  in 
those  extensive  forests  the  chances  of  getting  them  were  small. 

We  rested  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  about  3  P.M. 
again  set  out,  returning  to  camp  after  dark.  The  shikarees 
were  well  acquainted  with  the  jungles,  and  by  their  advice 
we  always  walked  in  their  tracks,  while  they,  carrying  the 
spare  gun,  led  the  way  and  kept  on  the  look-out  for  game. 

Emaum  was  generally  my  companion,  and  he  certainly  was 
a  very  good  marker.  His  senses  of  sight  and  hearing  were 

D 


34  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

very  acute,  and  he  used  to  declare  lie  could  smell  bison  when 
the  wind  was  favourable.  We  had  in  our  camp  about  a 
dozen  baggage  ponies,  each  with  his  attendant,  and  after  a 
successful  stalk  we  generally  took  these  and  went  out  after 
breakfast  to  cut  up  and  bring  in  the  meat.  We  had  a  sort  of 
pic-nic  on  these  occasions,  and  it  was  fearful  to  see  Emaum 
indulging  in  his  African  propensities,  and  bolting  huge  pieces 
of  raw  bison's  flesh. 

We  were  joined  by  Emaum  and  Moideen  about  four  miles 
from  the  bungalow  on  the  Kala  Nuddee,  which  we  intended 
to  make  our  head-quarters  for  some  weeks  ;  so,  on  the  follow- 
ing morning,  sending  on  our  baggage  by  the  road,  we  each 
took  a  shikaree,  and  started  off  through  the  jungle  in  different 
directions. 

Our  attendants  requested  that  we  should  trust  entirely  to 
them  to  find  the  game,  and  that  all  our  attentions  should  be 
engaged  in  avoiding  making  any  noise  by  treading  on  dry 
leaves  and  sticks. 

My  first  shot  was  at  a  doe  cheetul,  at  which,  however,  I 
would  not  have  fired,  had  not  Emaum  urged  the  want  of  meat 
in  camp.  She  was  about  eighty  yards  off,  feeding  in  an  open 
glade  in  the  bamboo  jungle.  My  shot  took  her  behind  the 
shoulder,  and  Emaum's  long  knife  did  the  rest.  He  was  much 
pleased  at  this  beginning,  and  expressed  his  intention  of  eat- 
ing largely  of  flesh.  The  deer  was  soon  skinned  and  cut  up  ; 
but  Emaum  said  that  nothing  must  be  wasted,  and,  emptying 
out  the  entrails,  he  packed  them  in  the  skin,  and  so  we  set  off 
to  camp,  where  we  were  soon  after  joined  by  Hayward,  who 
had  shot  a  sambur. 

One  morning,  when  shooting  in  this  jungle,  I  fired  at  a 
spotted  deer,  which  at  once  made  off,  and,  as  it  showed  no 
signs  of  being  hit,  I  concluded  I  had  missed— especially  as  I 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  35 

had  not  heard  the  thud  of  the  bullet  on  his  side.  On  going 
up  to  the  spot  where  the  deer  had  been  standing,  Emaum 
bent  down,  and  pointing  out  some  hairs  on  the  grass,  pro- 
nounced it  "  no  miss."  The  hairs  had  been  cut  by  the  ball  on 
entering,  and  lay  just  below  where  the  shoulder  of  the  deer 
had  been,  the  spot  being  plainly  indicated  by  the  deep  marks 
of  the  hoofs  in  the  ground  as  it  started  at  my  shot.  Following 
up  the  track,  we  came  on  the  deer  lying  dead.  On  other 
occasions,  I  have  been  similarly  assured  that  deer  had  been 
wounded,  and  have  brought  to  bag  beasts  that  otherwise 
would  have  been  lost 

The  bungalow  was  situated  in  a  lovely  spot,  about  sixty 
yards  from  the  river's  bank.  To  the  rear  of  the  house  was  a 
huge  banian  tree,  alive  with  minahs,  parrots,  and  green  pigeons ; 
and  on  all  sides  were  clumps  of  giant  bamboos  seventy  feet 
high,  standing  out  like  feathers  against  the  clear  sky.  The 
river  here  was  about  one  hundred  yards  across,  the  somewhat 
broken  bed  of  the  stream  changing  just  above  into  a  fine  deep 
pool.  We  made  this  place  our  head-quarters  for  about  three 
weeks,  stalking  morning  and  evening  in  the  jungles,  and 
generally  having  some  fresh  additions  to  make  to  our  game 
list  every  evening. 

I  did  not  get  a  shot  at  a  bison  till  I  had  been  out  some 
days  ;  but  one  morning  when  I  was  stalking  with  Moideen  we 
came  on  fresh  tracks.  My  companion  plucked  some  blades  of 
grass,  which  had  been  cropped,  and  pointed  out  how  the 
broken  edge  had  not  dried,  from  which  circumstance  he  knew 
that  the  game  was  not  far  off.  It  is  remarkable  how  little 
impression  these  large  hard-hoofed  animals  leave  on  the  sun- 
baked earth,  and,  though  sometimes  the  footprints  are  plain 
enough,  at  others,  they  can  only  be  distinguished  by  a  prac- 
tised tracker. 


36  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

We  proceeded  very  cautiously  in  single  file,  Moideen 
leading,  and  after  going  about  half  a  mile  we  heard  the  bison 
a  short  distance  in  front.  The  herd  was  about  to  lie  up  for 
the  day,  and  had  betaken  themselves  to  a  mass  of  thick  young 
bamboos. 

There  were  several  of  them ;  but  near  the  edge  of  the 
thicket,  with  her  face  towards  us,  lay  a  cow,  and,  from  her 
position,  we  saw  we  could  not  advance  without  alarming 
the  herd.  I  was  anxious  to  get  a  bull,  but,  fearing  that  in 
attempting  to  do  so  I  should  lose  all,  I  made  up  my  mind  to 
take  the  cow.  She  lay  in  deep  shade,  and  I  fired  at  her 
shoulder,  on  which  she  sprang  up,  and,  together  with  the  rest, 
dashed  off  to  the  left. 

My  battery  was  but  a  poor  one,  consisting  of  a  12-bore 
single  rifle,  and  a  14-bore  double  gun.  I  caught  the  latter  from 
Moideen,  and  fired  both  shots  at  a  bull  as  they  rushed  off. 
Eeloading,  we  took  up  the  track,  and  soon  came  on  blood  in 
large  quantities,  and  a  few  hundred  yards  ahead  we  came  on 
a  bison,  standing  with  his  stern  to  us,  at  the  side  of  a  patch  of 
jungle  grass  eight  feet  high. 

We  decided  on  moving  round  this  grass,  to  get,  if  possible, 
opposite  his  shoulder,  and  on  going  to  the  right  we  suddenly 
came  on  the  cow.  She  caught  sight  of  us,  and,  wheeling 
round,  stood  head  on.  Expecting  a  charge,  I  got  behind  a 
tree,  and  as  she  stood  looking  at  me,  with  her  nose  poked  out, 
I  fired  at  her  head,  and  she  fell  dead  in  her  tracks. 

We  had  supposed  that  this  was  the  beast  whose  blood  we 
had  seen ;  but,  on  examination,  we  found  that  as  she  lay  in 
the  bamboo  thicket  her  hind  foot  had  probably  been  drawn 
up  behind  the  forearm,  and  in  firing  I  had  sent  the  first  ball 
through  the  foot,  breaking  both  toes.  Being  unable  to  run  in 
this  crippled  state,  she  had  wheeled  round  on  finding  herself 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          37 

pursued,  and  my  second  shot  had  taken  her  just  above  one 
nostril,  and  had  passed  up  the  head  into  the  brain. 

Seeing  that  she  had  bled  but  little,  we  knew  that  the  bull 
must  have  been  hard  hit,  and  endeavoured  to  follow  up  the 
track  ;  but  the  blood  soon  ceased  to  flow,  and  the  footprints 
getting  mixed  up  with  those  of  the  rest  of  the  herd,  we 
were  unable  to  make  anything  of  them ;  so,  returning  to  the 
encamping  ground,  we  had  breakfast,  and  then,  taking  our 
ponies,  we  proceeded  to  skin  and  cut  up  the  beast. 

Our  camp  followers  were  in  high  glee  at  the  prospect  of 
meat,  and  on  our  return  they  cut  up  the  flesh  into  long  strips, 
and  dried  it  on  ropes  and  bamboos  suspended  from  tree  to 
tree.  In  a  few  days  it  became  black  and  hard,  and  was  then 
tied  up  in  bundles  like  firewood  till  required  for  food. 

We  kept  the  tail,  tongue,  and  marrow-bones,  and  some  of 
the  meat,  for  our  own  larder.  The  flesh  was  somewhat  tough 
and  stringy,  but  after  a  long  diet  on  scraggy  fowls  and  goat 
we  were  glad  of  any  change.  The  tail  made  capital  soup,  and 
the  tongue  and  marrow-bones  were  excellent. 

Most  of  the  jungle  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  had  been 
burnt ;  that  on  the  right  only  partially.  As  the  fire  sweeps 
along,  it  is  not  uncommon  for  dead  trees  to  ignite  near  the 
root,  and  as  the  fire  smoulders,  the  tree  falls.  It  will  continue 
to  burn  for  days,  and  the  fire  travels  out  to  the  ends  of  the 
branches,  leaving  the  impression  of  the  tree  on  the  ground  in 
white  ashes.  At  these  times  the  sambur  approach,  and  stand 
in  the  smoke  to  rid  themselves  of  the  flies.  They  also  lick 
up  the  ashes  for  salt.  We  frequently  came  on  them  about 
these  burning  trees,  but  our  shikarees  assured  us  that  on 
being  disturbed  they  would  not  return  till  the  second  day. 

One  morning,  Hayward  and  I,  having  set  out  with 
our  shikarees  in  different  directions,  chanced  to  meet  in  the 


38  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

jungle,  and,  seeing  one  of  these  burning  trees  close  by,  went 
up  to  it  and  sat  down  to  have  a  smoke.  Presently  a  splendid 
buck  cheetul  came  quietly  across  the  open  glade  in  front  of 
us.  We  sat  quite  still,  and  he  never  observed  us  till  within 
seventy  yards,  when  he  drew  up  and  stared.  He  was  a  handsome 
beast  as  he  stood  in  the  bright  morning  sun,  with  his  dark- 
brown  sides  flecked  with  white,  and  his  fine  antlers  thrown 
back.  Hayward,  who  sat  somewhat  in  rear  of  the  rest  of  the 
party,  quietly  raised  his  rifle  and  rolled  him  over,  and  we 
carried  him  off  bodily  to  camp. 

While  encamped  in  the  Dandelly  I  had  a  narrow  escape 
of  being  charged  by  a  bison,  owing  to  want  of  proper  attention 
to  my  rifle.  I  was  out  one  morning  with  Emaum,  and  as  we 
were  emerging  from  a  thicket  of  young  bamboos  we  came  on 
four  bison  feeding  on  an  open  space.  The  clearing  was  only 
about  fifty  yards  wide,  and  in  the  bamboos  on  the  opposite  side 
we  could  see  the  rest  of  the  herd  moving  about.  The  wind 
was  favourable,  and  we  were  not  observed,  but  any  retrograde 
movement  on  our  part  might  have  alarmed  the  game  ;  so, 
quietly  sinking  into  a  sitting  position,  I  raised  the  heavy 
single  rifle  to  my  shoulder  and  sat  motionless,  trusting  to  the 
dark  brown  colour  of  my  clothes  and  Emaum's  skin  to  escape 
observation. 

I  was  anxious  to  secure  a  heavy  bull,  and,  supposing  that 
one  would  be  in  the  herd,  I  reserved  my  shot  for  him,  and 
allowed  the  four  in  the  open  to  feed  unmolested.  One  of 
these  was  a  fine  young  bull,  and  presently  he  turned  his  head 
towards  me  and  fed  up  to  within  fifteen  yards.  He  was  getting 
too  close  to  be  pleasant ;  so,  aiming  at  the  point  of  his 
shoulder,  I  pressed  the  trigger.  The  cap  snapped,  and  the 
bison  started  back  a  pace  or  two  and  looked  hard  at  us.  Had 
they  charged,  we  should  have  been  smashed,  as  we  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          39 

sitting  among  young  bamboos  no  thicker  than  a  man's  finger, 
and  no  friendly  tree  was  near.  Without  lowering  the  rifle 
from  my  shoulder,  I  whispered  to  Emaum  to  fire,  which  he 
did  with  the  double-barrel  smoothbore,  taking  the  bull  dia- 
gonally from  the  point  of  the  right  shoulder  to  the  rear  of  the 
left  arm. 

All  four  wheeled  round  and  dashed  away  through  the 
thicket.  Emaum,  however,  assured  me  that  he  had  fired  with 
a  good  aim.  I  then  set  to  work  to  fire  off  my  rifle,  and  after 
some  time  succeeded  in  doing  so.  Shooting  into  an  ant-heap, 
T  picked  up  about  half  a  yard  of  burning  cloth,  which  my 
servant,  to  whom  I  had  foolishly  entrusted  the  cleaning  of 
my  rifle  on  the  previous  night,  had  left  in  the  barrel.  I  made 
a  note  of  the  fact  for  future  guidance.  Eeloading,  we  took  up 
the  track  of  the  herd,  and  after  going  about  200  yards  through 
the  jungle  came  on  the  bull,  lying  quite  dead. 

As  a  rule  we  found  that  when  a  bison  fell  to  the  shot,  it 
was  wise  to  give  him  more  lead  at  once,  as  they  will  frequently 
rise  and  get  off.  On  the  other  hand,  when  a  bison  ran  some 
distance,  and  then  fell,  he  seldom  rose  again,  and  was  nearly 
always  bagged. 

I  was  out  with  Emaum  one  morning  before  I  had  learned 
this  fact,  and  as  we  advanced  through  some  bamboos  we 
heard  bison  moving  a  short  distance  ahead.  Bending  down 
to  the  ground,  so  as  to  get  a  view  under  the  thick  leaves  of 
the  bushes,  we  could  see  the  heads  and  feet  of  the  advancing 
herd  as  they  grazed  on  the  young  grass.  Some  of  them  were 
within  thirty  yards,  but  their  bodies  were  quite  concealed.  I 
had  heard  that  a  shot  in  the  forehead  would  not  penetrate, 
but  having  no  other  chance  I  determined  to  try,  and,  sitting 
down  so  as  to  get  a  good  sight  of  the  heads,  I  watched  my 
opportunity.  A  large  cow  was  head  on,  and  aiming  a  little 


40  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

above  her  eyes  I  fired,  and  she  fell.  The  remainder  of  the 
herd  crashed  away  and  disappeared  as  Emaum  and  I  dashed 
forward. 

He  begged  I  would  fire  again,  as  the  cow  would  probably 
rise  and  get  away,  so,  standing  over  her,  I  fired  both  shots  of 
the  smoothbore  behind  her  shoulder.  Eemarking  that  all 
was  now  right,  Emaum  drew  his  long  knife  from  his  girdle, 
bent  back  the  head,  and  muttering  some  words  of  the  Koran, 
proceeded  to  cut  the  throat.  Unless  this  operation  is  per- 
formed in  life,  no  good  Mussulman  will  eat  of  the  flesh. 
When  meat  was  scarce,  however,  I  have  seen  them  satisfied 
with  a  very  slight  movement  on  the  part  of  the  dying 
animal. 

I  had  just  reloaded  the  smoothbore,  and  Emaum  had 
already  made  a  deep  incision  in  the  stout  skin  of  the  throat, 
when,  with  a  desperate  struggle,  the  cow  shook  him  off  and 
got  to  her  knees.  Emaum  sprang  to  the  nearest  tree,  and, 
catching  up  the  loaded  gun,  I  gave  the  poor  cow  two  more 
shots  behind  the  shoulder,  and  she  sank  down. 

We  were  much  troubled  in  our  stalking  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  owing  to  the  jungle  being  only  partially  burnt, 
and  the  ground  was  covered  with  huge  dry  teak  leaves  eighteen 
inches  across,  which  rendered  all  stalking  hopeless.  We  were 
informed  that  the  burning  had  been  prohibited  by  the  officer 
in  charge  of  the  district,  as  being  injurious  to  the  young 
timber.  This  we  did  not  believe,  the  more  so  that  the  jungle 
had  been  burnt  every  year  from  time  immemorial,  and,  not- 
withstanding, trees  of  every  growth  were  flourishing.  Several 
good  stalks  having  been  spoilt,  we  determined  to  fire  the 
jungle,  knowing  that,  in  addition  to  getting  rid  of  the  objec- 
tionable leaves  and  dry  grass,  a  fresh  green  herbage  would 
spring  up  in  a  few  days,  and  that  game  would  be  attracted. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          41 

Breaking  out  some  stout  dead  bamboos,  we  jumped  on 
them  till  they  were  in  splinters  from  end  to  end,  and  suitable 
for  torches,  and  then,  striking  a  light,  we  raked  up  some  dead 
leaves  and  made  a  fire.  While  engaged  at  this  work,  I  was 
bending  over  the  flame,  when  my  powder-flask  fell  from  an 
inner  breast-pocket  and  dropped  into  the  blaze.  My  first  im- 
pulse was  to  bolt,  but  I  was  a  long  way  from  home  and  had 
no  other  flask,  so  I  launched  a  desperate  kick  into  the  burn- 
ing mass.  I  caught  the  flask  on  the  toe  of  my  boot,  and  sent 
it  spinning  right  into  Emaum's  face.  He  was  some  yards  off, 
and  was  not  a  little  astonished,  though  not  much  hurt.  We 
then  lit  our  bamboo  torches,  and,  walking  across  the  wind, 
poked  them  into  the  leaves  at  intervals  of  ten  yards.  In  half 
an  hour  the  whole  jungle  was  a  sheet  of  flame,  and,  satisfied 
with  our  afternoon's  work  we  started  oif  home. 

In  the  jungle,  a  few  miles  from  the  bungalow,  was  a  very 
pretty  lake,  to  which  we  occasionally  went  to  spend  the  day, 
stalking  morning  and  evening  on  the  way.  Going  to  one  of 
these  pic-nics,  I  came  on  a  herd  of  bison,  and  got  a  fair  broad- 
side shot  at  a  fine  young  bull.  I  heard  the  shot  tell,  but  he 
dashed  off  and  disappeared.  Emaum  was  sulky,  and  taxed 
me  with  having  fired  too  soon,  but  I  made  him  take  up  the 
track,  and,  finding  blood,  he  recovered  his  temper. 

.After  going  some  distance,  as  we  crossed  a  small  dry 
watercourse  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  in  the  jungle,  we  saw  the 
bull  standing  above  us,  eighty  yards  off.  He  was  evidently 
distressed,  but  we  could  not  tell  where  he  was  hit.  Presently 
he  gave  a  good  broadside  shot,  and,  kneeling  behind  a  fallen 
tree,  I  fired.  He  staggered,  and  then  we  saw  one  of  his  fore- 
legs was  disabled. 

Whether  he  tried  to  come  at  us,  or  whether  he  was  un- 
able to  run  in  any  other  direction,  I  cannot  say  ;  but  he  came 


42  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

down  towards  us  on  three  legs  at  a  terrific  pace.  He  passed 
within  a  few  feet  of  where  we  lay,  and  as  he  went  by  I  gave 
him  another  shot  behind  the  shoulder,  and  he  fell  all  in  a 
heap  at  the  bottom  of  the  watercourse,  where  another  shot 
finished  him. 

The  lake  was  a  charming  spot  for  resting  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  though  its  proportions  were  of  course  reduced  by 
the  month  of  May.  All  round  the  edges  might  be  seen  the 
tracks  of  deer,  bison,  and  pigs,  which  evidently  came  down  in 
large  numbers  at  night  to  the  water.  The  reeds  were  filled 
with  large  blue  waterfowl  of  the  coot  and  waterhen  kind, 
having  long  toes,  which  enabled  them  to  run  freely  over  the 
network  of  weeds  which  covered  the  surface  of  the  water. 
Hayward  killed  one  of  these  by  a  fine  shot  from  the  rifle  at 
about  150  yards. 

We  had  spent  a  pleasant  day  at  this  lake,  and  were  pre- 
pared for  a  start  home,  when  we  observed  a  heavy  storm  gather- 
ing. The  only  shelter  in  the  place  was  an  old  hut,  about  as 
large  as  a  carriage  umbrella,  which  had  been  erected  by  cow- 
herds. It  was  constructed  of  slips  of  bamboos  and  teak  leaves, 
and  doubtless  would  have  kept  off  a  heavy  shower  twelve 
months  before.  At  this  time,  however,  it  was  rent  and  torn 
by  the  wind,  and  large  patches  of  the  thatch  had  been  blown  off. 
Into  it,  however,  we  crept,  and  covering  up  the  locks  of 
our  guns,  lit  our  pipes  and  waited  for  the  storm  to  burst.  We 
chaffed  Emaum  a  good  deal,  as,  in  reply  to  a  remark  from  me 
about  mid-day,  he  assured  me  we  should  have  no  rain.  We 
did  not  wait  long  for  it,  and  for  over  an  hour  the  rain  came 
down  in  a  perfect  deluge.  Our  frail  protection  only  seemed 
to  concentrate  the  heavy  drops,  which  poured  through  in  every 
direction.  The  thunder  was  deafening,  and  the  lightning  ap- 
peared to  strike  into  the  ground  all  round  us.  We  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          43 

somewhat  uneasy  lest  the  metal  of  our  guns  should  attract  it ; 
at  length  we  carried  them  off,  and  laid  them  down  in  the  open 
ground  at  some  distance. 

The  storm  went  off  as  speedily  as  it  came,  and,  wringing 
the  wet  out  of  our  clothes,  we  dried  our  rifles  and  set  off 
home. 

The  morning  after  rain  generally  brought  game  to  the  bag. 
All  old  footprints  were  of  course  obliterated,  and,  the  ground 
being  soft,  any  beasts  that  had  recently  passed  were  easily 
tracked,  and  the  leaves  and  grass  being  wet  enabled  us  to 
move  noiselessly  through  the  jungle.  We  were  therefore  out 
early  on  the  next  day,  and,  my  beat  on  that  morning  lying  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  I  crossed  with  Emaum  in  the  canoe 
before  daybreak,  and  by  the  time  that  objects  were  distinguish- 
able we  were  several  miles  from  the  bungalow. 

As  we  skirted  a  fine  open  glade  in  the  forest  we  observed 
a  large  herd  of  cheetul  on  the  far  side,  and  as  we  were  ad- 
vancing to  stalk  them  we  came  on  fresh  marks  of  a  bison — a 
solitary  bull,  which  had  evidently  fed  and  lain  down  at  the 
covert  side  during  the  night.  He  had  not  left  the  spot  more 
than  half  an  hour  ;  so,  taking  no  more  notice  of  the  cheetul, 
we  followed  on  his  track.  He  had  moved  deep  into  the  heavy 
forest,  and  as  we  followed  we  came  across  another  herd  of 
cheetul.  Catching  sight  of  us,  they  dashed  off  from  right  to 
left,  making  much  noise.  We  stuck,  however,  to  the  track 
of  the  bull,  and  found  he  had  been  lying  down  close  to  the 
line  on  which  the  deer  had  crossed.  They  had  disturbed  him, 
and  he  had  moved ;  but  we  could  see  by  the  prints  that  he 
was  not  scared,  and  had  moved  slowly,  feeding  as  he  went. 

Proceeding  with  much  caution  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
further,  Emaum  suddenly  halted,  and  pointed  out  the  bull 
about  sixty  yards  in  advance.  He  stood  in  a  small  green 


44  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

space,  twenty  yards  in  diameter,  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  Beyond 
was  a  dense  thicket.  On  this  side  of  him  was  a  ravine,  from 
the  sides  of  which  grew  bamboos,  and  one  straggling  clump  of 
these,  about  twenty  yards  from  us,  came  in  the  line  of  sight 
for  the  bull's  shoulder.  It  was  a  moment  of  much  perplexity. 
The  bull  was  by  far  the  finest  I  had  seen,  and  we  knew  that 
if  he  advanced  five  paces  he  would  be  out  of  sight.  He  stood 
broadside  on,  and,  as  the  intervening  bamboos  were  four  and 
five  inches  apart,  I  determined  to  take  aim  between  them, 
and,  raising  the  single  rifle,  I  fired.  The  bull  made  a  start 
forward,  and  stood  for  a  few  seconds  on  the  verge  of  the 
thicket.  I  told  Emaum  to  fire  with  the  smoothbore,  which 
he  did  at  once,  and  the  bull  disappeared.  Emaum  was  much 
disgusted,  as  the  bull  had  shown  no  signs  of  being  hit.  How- 
ever, I  carefully  examined  the  bamboos  through  which  I  had 
fired,  and,  finding  no  mark,  I  assured  him  that  the  bull  was 
not  unscathed.  We  had  just  reloaded  when  we  heard  loud 
snorts  from  the  thicket,  and  the  African  features  of  Emaum 
relaxed  into  a  broad  grin  as  he  sprang  behind  the  nearest 
tree  in  expectation  of  a  charge.  The  ravine,  however,  was 
between  us  and  the  bull,  and  I  knew  that  we  were  tolerably 
safe.  Presently  we  heard  more  snorts,  and  a  heavy  fall, 
followed  by  a  crashing  of  bamboos.  Emaum  shouted  that  the 
bull  was  down,  and  was  lashing  out ;  but  we  could  see  no- 
thing owing  to  the  density  of  the  covert.  Soon  the  kicks 
seemed  weaker,  and  we  advanced,  running  forward  from  tree 
to  tree.  There  lay  the  mighty  bull  at  his  last  gasp.  He  had 
not  run  thirty  yards  from  where  we  had  first  seen  him,  but 
had  stood,  sending  the  blood  from  his  nostrils  over  the  bushes, 
many  feet  higher  than  his  head.  My  shot  had  taken  him 
about  half-way  up  his  body,  behind  the  shoulder,  and 
Emaum's  farther  back.  As  he  lay  on  the  ground  we  measured 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          45 

him,  and  made  him  out  to  be  about  seventeen  hands  high  at 
the  shoulder,  with  fine  well-preserved  horns. 

These  large  solitary  bulls  are  at  times  very  savage.  They 
separate  themselves  from  the  herds,  and  their  lonely  life  seems 
to  make  them  vindictive  and  morose.  When  wounded  they 
will  charge  repeatedly  with  great  ferocity,  and  on  these  occa- 
sions the  nerve  and  activity  of  the  hunter  are  put  to  the  test, 
and  woe  betide  him  unless  he  succeeds  in  gaining  the  shelter- 
ing trunk  of  some  tree.  Emaum  informed  me  that  he  had  a 
narrow  escape  on  one  occasion  when  he  had  wounded  one  of 
these  bulls.  He  was  pursued,  but  succeeded  in  getting  behind 
a  tree.  The  bull  drew  up  about  twenty  yards  from  him,  watching 
his  opportunity,  for  the  forest  was  of  large  growth,  and  Emaum 
could  see  no  tree  up  which  he  had  any  chance  of  climbing  before 
the  bull  could  overtake  him.  At  length  he  bethought  himself 
of  his  blanket,  which  he  carried  over  his  shoulder,  and  as  the 
bull  drew  back  for  another  charge  he  placed  the  blanket 
on  the  end  of  his  long  gun,  and  holding  it  out  from  behind 
the  tree  shook  it  defiantly.  Accepting  the  challenge,  the  bull 
lowered  his  head,  and  came  on  with  a  rush.  Catching  the 
blanket  on  his  horns,  he  dashed  on  through  the  jungle,  while 
Emaum,  bolting  off  in  the  opposite  direction,  made  good  his 
escape. 

We  found  the  best  way  to  preserve  the  skulls  of  bison  was 
to  bury  them  up  to  the  horns  in  the  earth  for  three  or  four 
days,  after  removing  the  skin  and  as  much  flesh  as  could  be 
got  at  with  the  knife.  At  the  end  of  that  time  the  horns 
might  be  pulled  off  after  a  few  blows  from  a  tent-peg.  We 
then  dug  up  the  head,  fastened  a  rope  round  the  bone  of  the 
horns  and  flung  it  into  the  river,  where  the  fish  soon  cleaned 
the  skull. 

On  one  occasion  only  did  I  see  a  tiger  in  the  Dandelly.     I 


46  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

came  suddenly  on  him  one  afternoon  as  he  was  rolling  on 
some  dry  sand  in  the  bed  of  a  watercourse,  but  he  saw  us, 
and  was  off  before  I  had  time  to  shoot. 

Hay  ward  also  fell  in  with  one  under  peculiar  circumstances. 
While  walking  quietly  in  quest  of  game,  he  heard  a  great 
swearing  of  monkeys,  accompanied  by  the  cries  of  deer.  As 
the  noise  appeared  to  approach,  he  stood,  and  soon  saw 
numbers  of  cheetul  and  sambur  coming  on,  apparently  in  a 
state  of  great  alarm,  while  troops  of  monkeys  sprang  from 
branch  to  branch,  crying  in  the  manner  peculiar  to  them 
when  alarmed  by  the  sight  of  a  tiger  or  panther.  Hayward 
and  his  shikaree  stood  motionless,  and  presently  the  head 
and  shoulders  of  a  tiger  appeared  from  behind  a  clump  of 
bamboos.  Catching  sight  of  them,  he  dashed  off ;  but  Hay- 
ward  had  a  right  and  left  shot  at  the  deer,  and  got  two  sambur. 

Tracks  of  tigers  having  been  seen  near  the  river,  Emaum 
proposed  that  we  should  sit  up  one  night  over  a  cow  which 
was  to  be  tied  up  for  a  bait,  and  a  platform  was  made  in  a 
tree  for  this  purpose.  The  place  was  not,  however,  well 
selected,  and  as  the  moon  rose  we  found  the  cow  lying  in  deep 
shade.  Two  tigers  came  by  together  about  midnight,  and 
passed  within  thirty  yards  of  the  cow  ;  but  the  old  beast  laid 
her  head  to  the  ground,  and  they  passed  on  without  seeing 
her. 

We  frequently  came  across  pigs,  and  sometimes  saw  some 
very  fine  boars.  Eeturniug  home  with  Emaum  one  evening 
empty-handed,  we  saw  a  sounder*  of  pigs  rush  across  our  line 
100  yards  in  front  of  us,  and  as  we  moved  up  to  the  spot  we 
heard  one  of  their  number  crying  after  them.  This  was  an  old 
sow,  who,  I  suppose,  had  been  busy  with  some  choice  root  which 
she  did  not  like  to  leave,  and  so  had  been  left  behind.  She 

*  Term  used  in  the  language  of  Boardom  for  a  "  herd." 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE. 

stood  on  a  ridge  about  eighty  yards  to  our  right,  with  her  head 
towards  us.  I  told  Emaum  I  should  either  miss  her  or  shoot 
her  between  the  eyes.  I  was  lucky  enough  to  do  the  latter,  and 
ran  up  to  the  spot  with  visions  of  pork  chops.  Friend  Emaum, 
however,  notwithstanding  his  love  for  strong  drink,  was  a 
staunch  Mahomedan  as  far  as  pig  was  concerned,  and  steadily, 
but  respectfully,  declined  to  lay  a  finger  on  the  noble  beast. 
I  was  obliged,  therefore,  to  cut  off  the  head  and  carry  it  home 
myself,  leaving  the  carcass  to  the  jackals.  My  rifle  I  made 
over  to  my  companion,  but  I  do  not  think  that  even  the  pro- 
spect of  soused  countenance  would  again  induce  me  to  carry 
a  pig's  head  four  miles  on  my  shoulder. 

When  meat  was  plentiful  in  the  camp,  Emaum  was 
sometimes  apt  to  be  lazy  in  following  up  a  wounded  bison. 
I  was  out  with  him  one  evening,  and,  seeing  a  herd  at  some 
distance  feeding  towards  us,  we  lay  still  and  allowed  them  to 
come  on.  They  advanced  within  thirty  yards  without  observ- 
ing us,  and  singling  out  a  good  bull,  I  aimed  at  the  point  of 
the  shoulder  and  fired.  He  swung  round,  and  went  off  with 
the  herd.  Emaum  declared  I  had  missed,  but  this  I  knew 
to  be  impossible,  and  insisted  on  his  taking  up  the  track. 
The  ground  was  hard,  and  we  were  unable  to  distinguish 
from  the  others  the  prints  of  the  beast  which  was  supposed 
to  be  wounded.  After  going  a  quarter  of  a  mile  I  saw  a  few 
small  specks  of  blood  on  the  leaves,  but  soon  after  even  these 
ceased.  Emaum  then  said  that  the  wound  was  evidently 
but  slight,  and  that,  as  we  were  far  from  home,  night  would 
come  on,  and  we  should  lose  our  way  in  the  jungle  unless  we 
returned  at  once  to  camp.  I  replied  that,  if  necessary,  we 
could  sleep  in  the  jungle,  but  that  in  the  meantime  we  must 
follow  the  track.  This  we  did,  and  soon  came  on  the  bull 
lying  stone  dead.  Emaum  was  probably  aware  that  we 


48  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

should  find  the  bull  dead,  and  that  consequently  the  flesh 
would  not  be  lawful  food  for  him  and  his  co-religionists ; 
hence  his  laziness. 

We  were  sorry  to  leave  the  Dandelly  jungles,  but  our 
leave  was  up,  and  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  cantonments. 
Hayward  also  had  had  good  sport,  and  we  had  a  fair  show  of 
sporting  trophies  packed  on  our  baggage  ponies  on  our  return. 
In  commemoration  of  the  expedition,  our  washerman,  who 
accompanied  us,  cut  a  bamboo  about  eighty  feet  in  length,  and, 
hiring  coolies  on  the  road,  bore  it  to  the  fort  at  Dharwar, 
where  we  afterwards  saw  it  supporting  a  flag  at  his  favourite 
shrine.  We  fully  intended  to  have  made  another  explora- 
tion in  the  following  year ;  but  getting  our  marching  orders 
in  autumn,  we  moved  to  Kolapoor,  and  since  then  the 
Dandelly  jungles  have  been  to  me  but  a  dream  of  the  past. 


CHAPTEK  III. 

Kolapoor — Fox  and  Jackal  Coursing— A  Broken  Collar-bone — A  Snake— Eoyal 
Sportsman — Excursion  with  Langton — Treasure  Escort — Surgery — A 
Native  Hunter — Military  Sporting — Phoonda  Ghaut — Shaik  Adam  :  his 
Gun— Fever — A  Cheerless  Vigil — Stuffed  Bear — Practical  Joking— Fish- 
shooting — Mombait  Jungles — A  Bear  shot — Conjugal  Affection — Bear's 
Grease — Bison  seen — Domestic  Cow  shot — Embark  for  Guzerat. 

THE  country  around  Kolapoor  in  the  Deccan  is  not  very  good 
for  sporting.  There  are  no  large  jungles  within  two  or  three 
marches,  and,  owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  the  ground,  even 
the  uncultivated  districts  are  but  thinly  wooded,  giving  no 
covert  to  large  game  of  any  sort,  with  perhaps  the  exception 
of  a  few  panthers  ;  and  these  can  hide  so  easily  among  rocks, 
or  in  the  holes  of  porcupines,  that  they  are  seldom  to  be  met 
with. 

At  the  time  I  write  of,  the  present  cantonment  was  not 
established,  and  the  military  force — which,  after  the  campaign 
in  the  southern  Mahratta  country  of  1844-45,  was  considerable 
— had  been  located  to  the  south  of  the  town,  on  the  ground  slop- 
ing to  a  large  lake.  The  houses  of  the  officers  were  scattered 
on  spurs  of  land  jutting  down  among  the  rice-fields  from  the 
higher  ground.  Each  regiment  had  of  course  its  own  lines 
assigned ;  but,  as  the  force  was  reduced  on  the  pacification  of 
the  country,  many  of  the  bungalows,  being  left  untenanted,  fell 
into  decay,  and  on  our  arrival  only  a  few  were  occupied,  and 
our  officers  were  spread  over  a  large  area  with  most  unmilitary 
irregularity.  The  garrison  consisted  of  two  native  infantry 
regiments  and  a  horse  battery  of  European  artillery. 


50  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

No  large  game  being  found  within  a  day's  shoot,  we  were 
obliged  to  be  contented  with  what  we  could  get.  Foxes  and 
jackals  were  plentiful,  and  we  set  to  work  to  collect  grey- 
hounds, or  rather  long-legged  dogs  of  all  sorts.  We  had  some 
Persian  greyhounds,  but  found  they  could  not  stand  the  hot 
weather,  when  they  invariably  pined  off  and  died.  With 
Polygars  we  were  more  successful ;  but  the  best  dogs  of 
our  pack  were  from  a  large  Arab  mother  and  a  thoroughbred 
English  dog,  which  had  been  brought  out  by  an  officer  of  my 
regiment.  They  were  large,  handsome  hounds,  having  the 
dash  and  speed  of  the  English  dog,  while  from  their  mother 
they  inherited  hard  and  durable  feet,  which  enabled  them  to 
stand  over  the  rocky  hills  and  ravines  in  which  we  generally 
found  our  game.  As  greyhounds  I  fear  they  would  not  have 
passed  muster  in  this  country,  but  they  were  well  adapted 
for  the  work  they  had  to  do.  Every  dog  "  ran  cunning  ; "  and, 
in  fact,  had  they  not  done  so  we  should  have  had  few  kills  to 
chronicle,  for  the  country  was  covered  with  rocks  and  stones 
and  scrub  jungle,  and  earths  were  plentiful 

Our  season  did  not  commence  till  about  December,  by 
which  time  the  higher  crops  had  been  removed  from  the 
valleys  running  up  among  the  hills,  and  the  grass  was  cut  in 
most  places.  After  February  the  weather  began  to  get  very 
hot,  and  the  dogs  could  not  stand  the  sun  after  7  A.M.,  so  our 
hours  of  sport  were  limited  to  the  early  mornings. 

Our  usual  plan  was  to  send  out  the  dogs  a  few  miles  from 
the  cantonment  before  daybreak,  and  then  follow  on  horseback, 
so  as  to  be  up  with  them  as  soon  as  there  was  light  enough 
to  see  clearly.  On  our  arrival  the  dogs  were  cast  loose  ;  we 
generally  ran  from  two  to  four  together,  and  sending  the  dog- 
boy  home,  wandered  over  the  hills  and  ravines  till  we  found. 

Together  with  the  greyhounds  I  always  had  a  small  terrier, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          51 

and  we  frequently  found  her  most  useful  in  bolting  a  fox 
from  his  earth.  Poor  old  Smut !  she  lost  her  teeth  early  in 
life,  but  she  would  force  herself  into  any  place,  and  at  times 
we  had  hard  work  to  extricate  her  from  some  complicated 
hole  among  masses  of  rock  and  roots. 

The  foxes  were  of  the  usual  Deccan  breed,  small  but  fast, 
and  would  double  and  turn  before  the  dogs  with  wonderful 
agility.  The  jackals,  too,  were  strong  and  active ;  but  they 
give  but  a  poor  run  before  good  dogs,  unless  the  ground  is 
rough  and  they  have  a  good  start,  and  then  they  will  fre- 
quently escape. 

The  dogs  knew  their  work,  and  kept  near  the  horses  till 
they  saw  their  game,  when  they  would  dash  off  over  the  most 
rugged  ground  in  a  manner  that  would  astonish  a  man  only 
accustomed  to  legitimate  coursing. 

Eiding  quietly  along,  we  would  frequently  start  two  and 
three  foxes  together,  and  I  have  seen  as  many  as  four  jump 
up  at  once  from  some  hollow,  where  they  had  been  basking 
in  the  morning  sun  after  their  nocturnal  wanderings.  At 
such  times  we  had  to  trust  to  our  luck  to  get  the  dogs  on  any 
particular  fox,  and  if  our  pack  scattered  the  chances  were 
against  us ;  but  we  seldom  came  home  without  one  or  two 
brushes  to  show  for  our  morning's  work. 

When  a  fox  went  to  ground,  the  terrier  came  into  play, 
though  she  bad  neither  teeth  nor  strength  to  draw  him  ;  but 
we  found  that,  as  a  rule,  if  the  fox  were  followed  into  its  earth 
by  the  terrier,  and  there  bullied  a  little,  all  we  had  to  do  was 
to  get  her  out,  and  withdraw  with  her  and  the  other  dogs  to 
a  distance  of  fifty  yards.  If  we  then  kept  quiet  for  a  few 
minutes,  the  fox,  apparently  satisfied  that  its  retreat  had  been 
discovered,  would  often  bolt  out  and  make  off,  giving  a  second, 
and  for  him  often  a  fatal  run. 


52  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  do  not  recollect  ever  bolting  a  jackal  in  this  manner, 
nor  have  I  ever  heard  of  a  fox  having  been  so  started  from  its 
earth  in  this  country  ;  but  the  hint,  if  new,  may  be  worthy  of 
the  attention  of  foxhunters,  and  may  secure  a  kill  when  blood 
is  wanted. 

In  addition  to  foxes  and  jackals,  we  also  fell  in  with 
hares  ;  but  we  preferred  going  after  these  with  beaters,  in 
the  cooler  days  of  the  rainy  season.  We  moved  in  line  on 
these  occasions,  carrying  guns,  with  our  horses  led  behind  us, 
and  the  dogs  at  intervals  held  in  slips.  Partridges,  quail,  and 
florican,  were  tolerably  numerous  ;  and  if  a  hare  got  up  in 
rough  ground  unsuited  for  the  dogs,  his  career  was  stopped 
with  a  charge  of  No.  5,  otherwise  we  jumped  on  our  horses 
and  gave  chase.  We  were  annoyed  sometimes  by  herds  of 
antelope  ;  they  would  lead  the  dogs  a  dance  of  miles,  and  by 
the  time  we  got  them  back  they  were  generally  quite  ex- 
hausted. They  never  seemed  to  grow  wiser  in  this  matter,  but 
having  on  one  or  two  occasions  killed  fawns,  never  hesitated 
in  their  hopeless  attempts  to  run  down  full-grown  antelope. 

One  course  was  checked  in  a  singular  manner.  The  dogs, 
four  in  number,  were  close  round  my  horse,  and  sighting  a 
black  buck  they  dashed  after  him.  After  going  about  100 
yards,  I  saw  an  unlucky  fox  jump  up  just  in  front  of  the  lead- 
ing dog.  He  whisked  his  tail  and  attempted  to  get  under 
weigh,  but  the  dogs  were  on  him  like  a  railway  engine,  and 
I  saw  him  flung  up  and  come  down  among  the  pack,  who 
made  short  work  of  him.  The  antelope  was  of  course  for- 
gotten, and  I  congratulated  myself  on  the  turn  of  events. 
Eunning  loose,  the  dogs  became  very  intelligent.  At  first 
they  would  start  off  even  after  a  hawk  or  other  bird  skimming 
along  the  ground,  but  in  this  they  soon  learned  wisdom,  and 
came  to  know  what  they  ought  to  follow. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          53 

Biding  over  this  rough  ground,  it  was  requisite  to  have  a 
horse  strongly  bitted  and  thoroughly  in  hand,  at  the  same 
time  giving  him  his  head  sufficiently  to  enable  him  to  pick 
his  way  over  bad  ground.  I  was  one  day  riding  a  valuable 
horse,  which,  having  been  raced,  had  become  almost  a  run- 
away. Finding  that  he  pulled  less  with  a  plain  snaffle  than 
any  other  bit,  I  foolishly  rode  him  in  one  on  this  afternoon. 
I  was  accompanied  by  two  friends,  and  we  were  soon  after  a 
fine  fox.  Before  we  had  gone  100  yards  I  felt  that  the  horse 
was  away  with  me,  and,  as  we  were  on  smooth  ground,  I 
determined  to  keep  him  on  it  till  I  could  manage  him.  Bear- 
ing heavily  on  one  rein,  I  kept  him  going  in  a  large  circle 
till  I  succeeded  in  stopping  him.  By  this  time  my  friends, 
with  the  dogs  and  fox,  had  crossed  some  low  ground,  over 
which  I  had  to  follow,  and  no  sooner  did  I  attempt  to  increase 
the  pace  than  my  horse  again  bolted. 

The  hollow  was  full  of  huge  holes  many  yards  in  width, 
formed  by  the  action  of  water  in  the  rainy  season,  and  one 
of  these  coming  in  our  line,  I  only  escaped  a  smash  by  a 
desperate  wrench  of  the  rein,  whereby  we  were  enabled  to 
clear  the  corner  of  the  pit.  When  I  rejoined  my  friends  I 
found  they  had  lost  the  fox  among  some  bushes,  and  shortly 
after  we  again  moved  on.  Finding  a  hare,  my  horse  bolted 
for  the  third  time  ;  but,  as  the  ground  was  clear,  and  he  was 
going  in  the  right  direction,  I  did  not  much  care. 

I  was  far  ahead  of  my  companions,  and  going  at  racing 
speed,  when  my  steed  fell  as  if  shot  through  the  head.  I 
suppose  he  must  have  crossed  his  legs,  for  I  could  see  nothing 
to  throw  him.  I  was  sent  flying  about  ten  yards  over  his  head, 
and  came  down  on  the  hard  sun-baked  ground  with  a  force 
which  would  require  to  be  felt  to  be  fully  appreciated.  I  was 
badly  bruised,  but  managed  to  pick  myself  up  and  return  to 


54  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

my  horse,  which  lay  where  he  fell.  I  had  shaken  him  on  his 
legs,  and  was  about  to  remount,  when  my  friends  came  up. 
One  of  them  was  our  regimental  doctor,  and  he  naturally 
inquired  after  my  health.  I  replied  that  I  was  all  right, 
though  a  good  deal  knocked  about.  On  attempting,  however, 
to  raise  my  left  hand  to  gather  up  my  reins,  I  found  it  was 
powerless,  and  the  doctor  then  called  out  that  I  had  broken 
my  collar-bone,  and  was  all  down  on  one  side.  True  enough, 
this  was  the  case.  He  dismounted,  and  unrolling  my  muslin 
turban  he  trussed  me  up,  and  with  his  assistance  I  mounted 
his  horse  and  returned  to  camp,  where  I  was  laid  up  for 
some  weeks. 

Our  dogs  frequently  started  off  in  pursuit  of  some  unlucky 
mongoose,  an  animal  like  a  large  blue  ferret.  The  poor  beast 
was  at  once  pulled  to  pieces,  much  to  our  regret,  for  they 
are  inveterate  enemies  to  snakes,  with  which  the  country  is 
infested. 

I  was  awoke  when  in  bed  one  night  by  the  growling  of 
a  small  dog  which  lay  at  my  feet.  My  bed  was  the  only 
furniture  in  the  room,  the  floor  of  which  was  covered  with  a 
bamboo  matting.  At  first  I  suspected  thieves,  but  at  length 
observed  the  dog  fix  its  eyes  in  the  corner  of  the  room,  where 
stood  a  tumbler  of  oil  with  a  wick  burning.  Near  the  lamp 
I  saw  a  snake  close  to  the  wall,  and,  snatching  up  my  sword 
from  under  the  mattress,  I  jumped  out  of  bed.  The  snake 
wriggled  under  the  matting,  and  as  I  could  see  where  he  was, 
I  gave  a  smart  cut  down  on  him.  The  sword  went  through 
the  matting  and  into  the  plaster  floor ;  but  on  my  attempting 
to  withdraw  it  I  gave  the  lamp  a  jerk  and  extinguished  it. 
The  situation  was  unpleasant.  My  feet  were  bare  and  un- 
protected, the  room  was  dark,  I  could  not  tell  how  the  snake 
had  fared.  I  managed,  however,  to  regain  my  bed,  and 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          55 

shouted  till  a  servant  came  with  a  light,  when  we  found  that 
I  had  cut  fair,  and  the  two  ends  of  the  snake  lay  wriggling 
under  the  mat. 

The  game  round  Kolapoor  was  much  reduced  by  the 
hunting  expeditions  of  the  Eajah,  which  were  frequent  in  the 
cold  weather  and  during  the  breaks  in  the  rainy  season.  His 
party  consisted  of  several  hundred  men,  mounted  and  on  foot, 
and  about  thirty  brace  of  greyhounds.  They  moved  across  the 
country  in  a  long  line.  Everybody  who  had  a  gun  fired,  and 
all  the  dogs  were  slipped  at  any  running  beast  that  got  up. 

The  lake  below  the  cantonment  was  full  of  fish  of  large 
size ;  and  in  the  cold  weather  a  fair  amount  of  ducks  and  snipe 
might  be  got. 

About  twelve  miles  off  were  the  hill  forts  of  Punalla  and 
Powagurh,  rising  about  800  feet  above  the  low  ground.  Here 
some  of  the  political  officers  had  bungalows,  which  gave  a 
pleasant  retreat  from  the  heat  of  the  cantonment.  To  the 
eastward  of  these  forts  was  the  hill  of  Jotebaz,  crowned  with 
picturesque  temples,  where  large  numbers  of  Hindoo  devotees 
were  wont  to  congregate.  On  the  north  side  of  this  range 
was  a  good  deal  of  scrub  bush,  well  stocked  with  peafowl, 
hares,  partridges,  and  a  small  species  of  jungle  antelope.  My 
chum  Hayward  and  I  frequently  shot  over  these  hills,  and 
invariably  made  good  bags. 

Fourteen  miles  to  the  west  of  the  cantonment  lay  some  good 
coursing  ground ;  and  thither  Langton,  of  my  regiment,  and  I,  set 
out  for  a  three  days'  trip,  taking  with  us  an  old  native  officer 
of  the  corps,  who  was  fond  of  sport  of  all  kinds,  and  generally 
kept  two  or  three  good  dogs  of  his  own.  Bheema  was  a  native 
of  Malabar,  an  intelligent  man,  and  a  good  and  trustworthy 
officer.  His  sporting  get-up  was  very  fine — short  drawers  from 
the  waist  to  the  middle  of  the  thigh,  an  old  cloth  jacket,  and 


56  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

a  black  blanket ;  about  his  person  were  hung  numerous  bags 
containing  flint  and  steel,  tobacco,  food  of  sorts  (including 
parched  grain,  sugar,  and  salted  shrimps),  shot,  powder,  and 
ball ;  on  his  shoulder  he  carried  an  old  flint  musket. 

We  found  foxes  in  great  numbers,  and  one  day  coursed 
seven,  killing  six.  The  ground  was  very  rough,  and  Bheema, 
who  was  on  foot  and  declined  a  mount,  predicted  that  we 
should  break  our  necks,  but  our  ponies  kept  their  legs,  and 
we  had  no  spills. 

On  the  last  day  of  our  leave  we  had  just  struck  our  tent, 
and  were  about  to  load  the  baggage  ponies,  when  a  severe 
thunderstorm  came  on,  and  in  five  minutes  we  were  drenched 
to  the  skin.  Within  an  hour  every  watercourse  was  a  raging 
torrent,  and  we  knew  that  for  the  present  it  was  hopeless  to 
attempt  to  return  to  camp. 

Turning  into  the  village,  we  found  some  horsemen  of  the 
Eajah's  Irregular  Cavalry  picketed  at  a  temple,  and  with  these 
we  fraternised,  and  gave  them  a  goat,  which  they  forthwith 
slew  and  cooked.  Here  we  halted  till  the  moon  rose,  and 
having  got  some  dry  clothes  from  among  our  baggage,  we  made 
ourselves  comfortable.  About  11  P.M.  we  started  on  our 
march  home,  and,  the  water  having  by  this  time  subsided,  we 
arrived  without  further  adventure. 

I  was  ordered  off  with  a  detachment  to  escort  treasure 
which  was  coming  from  Belgaum,  and  was  sent  out  five  marches 
to  meet  it.  At  our  second  halting-place  some  villagers 
brought  in  an  unhappy  boy  who  had  been  horned  in  the  leg 
by  a  buffalo.  The  calf  of  his  leg  was  nearly  torn  off,  and  was 
hanging  down  over  his  ankle.  It  was  in  vain  that  I  assured 
his  friends  that  I  was  no  surgeon.  They  said  that  they  had 
great  confidence  in  a  white  man,  and  begged  me  to  do  my  best. 
I  beat  up  among  the  detachment  for  needles  and  thread,  and, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          57 

having  prepared  a  number  of  threads  with  two  needles  on 
each,  had  the  boy  laid  on  a  table,  and  brought  the  calf  into 
its  proper  place  by  sutures  at  intervals  of  about  an  inch  ;  then, 
directing  cooling  diet  and  water  dressing,  I  made  the  lad  over  to 
his  parents.  We  marched  early  next  morning,  and  I  never  had 
an  opportunity  of  learning  the  result  of  my  attempt  at  surgery. 
The  natives,  however,  at  times  get  over  wounds  and  lacerations 
in  an  extraordinary  manner,  and  he  possibly  recovered,  though 
it  struck  me  at  the  time  that  there  was  much  danger  of  tetanus. 

On  this  march  I  passed  through  a  country  swarming  with 
antelope  and  bustard,  but  I  was  suffering  at  the  time  from  a 
sharp  attack  of  rheumatism  in  the  shoulders,  and  was  unable 
to  hold  up  a  rifle. 

I  was  out  one  morning  with  an  old  village  shikaree,  and, 
disgusted  with  several  bad  shots,  returned  to  the  tents.  The 
man  asked  permission  to  try  his  luck  by  himself;  but,  as 
his  weapon  was  only  a  short  and  very  rusty  old  matchlock, 
I  never  expected  he  would  succeed.  About  two  hours  after 
my  return  he  made  his  appearance,  bearing  on  his  shoulders 
a  fine  black  buck  which  he  had  successfully  stalked  and 
brought  down. 

A  friend  of  mine  once  made  a  rather  remarkable  shot 
when  on  the  line  of  march,  in  command  of  a  treasure-guard. 
His  party  consisted  of  about  100  infantry  and  some  horsemen, 
the  infantry  with  loaded  muskets.  As  not  unfrequently 
happens,  a  large  herd  of  antelope  were  feeding  near  the  road 
in  the  open  plain,  and,  quietly  getting  his  men  on  the  proper 
flank  of  the  treasure-carts,  he  halted,  faced  outwards,  and  fired 
a  volley  at  the  astonished  deer.  A  charge  was  at  once  executed 
by  the  cavalry,  and  the  result  was,  I  think,  seven  deer  brought 
to  bag.  The  muskets  were  the  old  brown  Bess  ;  with  Sniders 
an  even  better  account  might  have  been  given  of  the  herd. 


58  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

A  brother  officer  had  been  out  on  leave  at  the  Phoonda 
Ghaut,  where  the  road  from  Kolapoor  descends  the  Western 
Ghauts  to  the  port  of  Wagotun.  He  reported  well  of  the 
prospect  of  bears,  having  shot  one  or  two,  and  badly  wounded 
another,  which  had  escaped.  He  proposed  that  I  should  re- 
turn with  him,  so  we  got  ten  days'  leave  and  set  out. 

It  was  the  early  part  of  the  rains,  and  the  weather  was 
cool  and  pleasant ;  we  did  not,  however,  find  much  game. 
There  had  been  a  few  bears,  but  they  had  been  disturbed  and 
had  changed  their  ground,  and  we  found  no  very  fresh  marks. 

We  shot  a  few  of  the  small  deer  known  there  as  "  Peesaie." 
They  are  about  the  size  of  an  English  hare,  very  handsome, 
having  sides  spotted  something  like  a  cheetul.  Our  shikaree 
here  was  Shaik  Adam,  a  very  respectable  old  Mahomedan,  and 
in  his  younger  days  he  must  have  been  a  strong  active  man. 
When  employed  with  us  he,  of  course,  carried  a  spare  rifle, 
but  his  own  shooting-iron  was  peculiar.  The  barrel,  which 
was  of  great  length,  was  that  of  a  matchlock ;  he  had  pro- 
cured an  old  Government  flint  lock,  and  the  stock  had  been 
fashioned  and  fitted  by  some  primitive  village  carpenter.  His 
charge  was  a  handful  of  coarse  native  powder,  measured  with 
the  ramrod  in  the  barrel,  and  a  long  plug  of  lead  hammered 
on  a  stone  to  fit  the  bore.  The  barrel  was  of  soft  metal,  and 
if  much  knocked  about  was  liable  to  become  bent,  a  circum- 
stance which  naturally  affected  its  shooting.  A  bad  shot 
was,  however,  not  unfrequently  put  down  to  the  evil  influence 
of  some  Hindoo  demon,  who  was  supposed  to  be  employed  by 
Brahmins  and  Bunneahs  to  counteract  the  flesh-eating  and 
life-destroying  tendencies  of  the  worthy  Shaik.  On  such 
occasions  a  kid  was  generally  presented  as  a  propitiation  to 
the  nearest  Hindoo  shrine,  and  the  musket  was  handed  over 
to  the  blacksmith  to  have  the  barrel  straightened. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          59 

We  were  encamped  among  the  hills  far  from  any  village, 
when  my  companion  got  a  bad  attack  of  fever  and  ague,  and 
was  unable  to  leave  his  tent. 

As  we  intended  to  stalk  sambur  early  next  morning,  I 
went  out  with  Shaik  Adam  before  daybreak,  and  we  had  a 
long  walk  over  likely  ground,  but  returned  at  nine  to  break- 
fast, having  only  had  a  distant  view  of  one  sambur. 

Shaik  Adam  had  arranged  for  a  beat  in  the  daytime,  and 
had  assembled  some  men  ;  so  we  again  went  out,  returning  at 
4  P.M.,  without  having  seen  a  hoof. 

My  friend  was  better,  and  being  hungry  we  sat  down  at 
once  to  dinner,  and  had  just  finished  when  a  herdsman  came 
running  in  and  said  his  cow  had  been  killed  by  a  tiger  about 
three  miles  from  our  tents.  The  Shaik  and  I  at  once  set  off 
with  our  guide,  hoping  that  the  tiger  would  return  about  sun- 
down. As  we  approached  the  spot,  which  was  in  a  rugged 
part  of  the  jungle,  the  cowherd  pointed  to  the  bush  where 
the  cow  lay,  and  we  saw  something  moving  close  to  the  car- 
cass. We  naturally  thought  this  must  be  the  tiger,  but  it 
turned  out  to  be  only  a  fine  old  peacock  who  was  quietly 
scratching  the  ground  by  the  murdered  cow.  No  part  had 
been  eaten  by  the  tiger,  but  in  her  neck  were  the  marks  of 
the  four  fangs. 

As  there  was  not  much  daylight  left,  we  at  once  climbed 
trees,  and  waited  patiently  for  the  arrival  of  the  beast.  The 
sun  went  down,  and  the  darkness  came  on,  but  still  we  sat 
hoping  for  the  tiger,  till  we  could  not  distinguish  the  white 
carcass  of  the  cow  beneath  us. 

I  then  proposed  that  we  should  descend  and  return  to 
camp  ;  but  the  cowherd  declared  we  should  be  eaten  by  the 
tiger,  and  that  we  should  never  be  able  to  retrace  our  steps  at 
night  through  the  jungle  and  ravines.  In  this  he  was  backed 


60  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

up  by  Sliaik  Adam ;  and,  being  somewhat  inexperienced,  I 
bowed  to  their  mature  judgment,  and  made  up  my  mind  to 
pass  the  night  in  the  tree. 

As  we  had  made  no  platform  or  arrangement  of  any  sort 
for  squatting,  the  prospect  of  sitting  for  eight  hours  on  a 
small  branch  was  not  invigorating,  the  more  so  that  we 
had  been  on  the  move  since  daybreak  in  the  morning.  My 
first  proceeding  was  to  tie  the  guns  to  branches,  and  then  to 
cut  up  my  turban  into  lengths  for  stirrups,  as  the  blood  de- 
scending into  the  feet  when  kept  long  in  a  hanging  position 
gives  a  very  painful  sensation. 

The  padded  cover  of  my  cap  was  employed  as  a  cushion, 
and  another  portion  of  my  turban  to  tie  round  the  waist  to 
the  tree  at  my  back,  and  so  to  keep  me  in  position  in  the 
event  of  my  falling  asleep. 

These  little  arrangements  concluded,  I  smoked  myself  into 
a  state  of  somnolency,  and  passed  one  of  the  most  uncomfort- 
able nights  I  can  remember.  So  eager  were  we  to  bag  the 
tiger,  that  even  when  the  day  broke  we  retained  our  positions 
for  some  time,  in  the  hope  that  he  would  return  to  the  cow  ; 
but  we  never  saw  him. 

Returning  to  the  tent,  I  found  my  chum  still  in  small  health, 
so  we  determined  to  move  to  Phoonda,  where  an  officer  of  the 
Quartermaster-General's  department  was  employed  in  making  a 
road  through  the  pass,  and  from  him  we  hoped  to  get  some  medi- 
cines. We  accordingly  rode  in  after  breakfast,  leaving  the  ser- 
vants to  follow  with  the  baggage  and  tent.  Captain  Delhoste 
received  us  hospitably,  and  made  us  comfortable  at  the  travellers' 
bungalow,  which  was  situated  on  the  crest  of  the  mountain, 
commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  pass  and  low  country. 
We  made  a  halt  here  of  a  couple  of  days,  during  which  my 
companion  was  fortunate  in  shaking  off  his  feverish  attack. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          61 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  and  before  that  of  our  people,  two 
villagers  came  in  bearing  on  a  pole  a  dead  bear,  which  they 
said  they  had  killed.  Knowing  the  weight  of  a  large  bear, 
we  were  astonished  to  see  them  move  so  easily  under  their 
load,  but,  on  closer  inspection,  we  found  that  the  bear  had 
been  skinned  and  rudely  stuffed  with  hay.  After  some 
questioning,  the  men  confessed  that  they  had  found  the  bear 
dying,  and  had  knocked  him  on  the  head  with  their  axes  ; 
and  from  various  bullet-holes  in  the  skin,  and  their  descrip- 
tion of  the  place  where  they  found  it,  we  had  no  doubt  that 
it  was  the  same  bear  which  my  friend  had  wounded  and  lost 
in  his  former  expedition.  We  gave  them  a  small  reward  and 
dismissed  them,  and  as  Shaik  Adam  had  not  come  in  we 
arranged  to  have  a  little  sport  with  the  defunct  bear. 

I  had  it  carried  to  some  distance  from  the  bungalow  to  a 
mass  of  rocks  and  bushes  on  the  face  of  the  mountain,  where 
we  drew  out  the  pole  and  partially  concealed  the  bear  among 
some  long  grass.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Shaik,  we  told  him 
that  a  bear  had  been  severely  stung  in  an  attack  on  a  bees' 
nest,  and  was  so  blinded  as  to  be  unable  to  make  his  way 
through  the  jungle. 

"We  added  that  he  was  supposed  to  be  lying  up  among 
some  rocks  not  far  off,  and  as  my  companion  was  not  fit  for 
work  I  proposed  to  the  Shaik  that  he  and  I  should  go  in 
search  of  it.  He  at  once  acceded,  and  soon  appeared  with  his 
own  gun.  Placing  a  couple  of  caps  on  a  rifle,  I  went  out 
with  him,  and,  directing  him  to  keep  close,  moved  down  on 
the  spot  where  we  had  placed  the  bear.  When  about  ten 
yards  off  the  Shaik  caught  sight  of  it,  and  halting,  pointed  it 
out  to  me.  I  at  once  raised  my  rifle,  and  exploded  the  cap. 
Up  went  the  long  gun,  and  taking  a  careful  aim  my  friend 
pressed  the  trigger,  but  the  only  result  was  a  flash  in  the  pan. 


62  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Telling  -me  to  stand  ready  with  my  other  barrel,  he  again 
cocked  his  piece  and  attempted  to  fire,  with  no  better  result. 

Muttering  something  uncomplimentary  to  the  musket,  he 
passed  his  right  hand  behind  him,  and,  drawing  out  a  long 
knife,  commenced  to  hammer  the  flint  with  the  back  of  it, 
steadily  keeping  a  look-out  on  the  bear  all  the  while.  Satis- 
fied with  his  operations,  he  again  raised  the  gun,  which  this 
time  exploded  with  a  report  like  a  young  cannon.  I  retreated 
a  few  paces,  warning  the  Shaik  to  beware  of  a  charge  ;  but  he 
replied  that  his  aim  had  been  sure,  and  that  he  had  done  for 
the  bear.  We  then  advanced,  and  a  slight  puff  of  wind  from 
the  direction  of  the  bear  saluted  our  nostrils  with  a  not  too 
savoury  odour.  With  a  disrespectful  allusion  to  she  bears 
in  general,  and  particularly  to  those  nearly  connected  with 
the  deceased,  the  Shaik  ejaculated  "  Bas  marta,"  which  is, 
being  interpreted,  "  it  smells." 

I  could  contain  my  gravity  no  longer,  but  fled  laughing  to 
the  bungalow,  where  I  was  soon  followed  by  the  indignant 
and  much  injured  man.  His  feelings  were  much  hurt,  for  he 
had  the  local  reputation  of  a  mighty  hunter,  and  he  knew 
that  the  story  would  spread,  and  that  his  village  friends  would 
make  the  most  of  it.  He  remarked  in  a  dignified  manner  that 
he  was  an  old  woodsman,  and  that  such  a  prank  ought  not  to 
have  been  played  on  him  by  a  youth  of  my  tender  years.  I 
have  since  heard  of  a  similar  joke  being  played  on  a  gallant 
officer,  who  was  taken  out  and  made  to  shoot  at  a  railway 
wrapper,  having  on  it  the  representation  of  a  panther-skin, 
which  had  been  cunningly  hid  away  among  some  long  grass. 

We  restored  the  Shaik  to  good  humour  with  a  glass  of 
brandy,  and  in  the  afternoon  went  out  with  him,  and  bagged 
a  number  of  spur-fowl. 

In  the  river  above  the  pass  we  saw  two  fair-sized  fish  of 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          63 

the  species  known  as  inurrel.  They  were  lying  close  to  each 
other  near  the  surface  of  the  water,  and,  aiming  between  their 
heads,  I  fired  with  a  heavy  rifle.  The  Shaik,  who  had  in  the 
meantime  disrobed,  sprang  in  and  recovered  both  fish.  Neither 
had  been  struck,  but  the  concussion  of  the  water  had  stunned 
them,  and  they  were  on  the  bank  before  they  had  time  to 
recover. 

My  friend  being  restored  to  health,  we  arranged  to  move 
to  the  Mombait  jungles,  about  four  miles  to  the  north  of 
Phoonda.  The  road  was  only  practicable  for  men  on  foot,  and 
horses ;  so  we  had  to  collect  coolies  to  carry  our  tent  and 
baggage.  These  were  sent  on  with  Shaik  Adam,  who  was 
directed  to  go  out  on  reaching  the  ground,  look  about  for 
marks  of  game,  and  ascertain  the  prospects  of  sport 
generally. 

We  started  on  horseback  one  afternoon,  but,  as  we  did  not 
take  the  direct  route,  it  was  sundown  before  we  reached  the 
camp.  We  found  the  coolies  and  servants  busy  pitching  the 
tent,  and  bringing  in  wood,  grass,  and  water.  The  Shaik  had 
gone  out  alone,  and  it  was  nearly  dark  before  he  came  in.  He 
said  he  had  been  along  the  crest  of  the  Ghauts,  and  had  visited 
several  caves  of  bears,  finding  fresh  marks.  He  was  on  his 
way  back  to  the  camp,  and  was  entering  on  a  piece  of  clear 
ground,  about  200  yards  in  length,  having  a  footpath  down 
the  middle  of  it.  On  coming  out  into,  the  open,  he  saw  a 
bear  walking  leisurely  towards  him  along  the  path,  and  as  he 
was  not  observed  he  quietly  slipped  aside  and  concealed  him- 
self behind  some  bushes.  The  bear,  meanwhile,  came  slowly 
forward,  and  when  within  ten  paces,  the  Shaik  gave  it  the 
contents  of  the  long  gun  through  the  heart.  The  bear  fell  in 
its  tracks  quite  dead,  but  to  make  sure  he  rammed  down 
another  charge,  and  fired  again  behind  its  shoulder  as  it  lay 


64  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

on  the  ground.  He  then  cut  boughs  of  trees,  and,  having 
covered  up  the  beast,  returned  to  the  tent  to  procure  men  to 
carry  it  in. 

A  party  of  our  coolies  at  once  set  off  with  him,  but  on  ar- 
riving at  the  spot  where  the  bear  had  been  left,  they  found  it 
had  disappeared.  The  boughs  lay  scattered  about,  and  marks 
of  blood  were  on  the  ground,  but  the  bear  was  gone  ;  and  it 
being  now  quite  dark,  the  men  came  back  and  reported  matters 
to  us.  We  of  course  conjectured  that  the  bear  had  only  been 
stunned  and  badly  wounded  by  the  Shaik,  and  had  managed 
to  recover  sufficiently  to  get  away  among  the  dense  bush, 
which  on  all  sides  surrounded  the  spot.  The  Shaik,  however, 
who  was  a  man  of  long  experience,  and  skilled  in  all  matters 
of  woodcraft,  assured  us  that  he  had  left  the  bear  dead,  and 
he  believed  some  beast  must  have  carried  it  off.  It  was  too 
late  to  do  anything  then,  so  we  settled  to  go  out  at  daybreak 
and  clear  up  the  mystery. 

The  jungle-cocks  were  crowing  in  the  ravines  when  we 
turned  out  in  the  morning  ;  and  after  a  light  breakfast  we  set 
off  for  the  spot  whence  the  bear  had  disappeared. 

As  the  men  had  reported,  we  found  the  boughs  strewed 
about  and  much  blood  on  the  ground,  but  the  daylight  enabled 
us  to  see  that  the  carcass  had  been  dragged  along  the  ground, 
so  we  prepared  to  follow  up  the  track.  For  some  distance  it 
led  through  the  open  glade,  through  which  the  Shaik  informed 
us  the  bear  had  advanced  just  before  he  shot  it ;  after  this,  it 
went  through  some  thick  scrub  jungle,  and  then  along  the 
stony  bed  of  a  dry  watercourse. 

Here  the  jungle  became  very  thick,  and  the  thorns  and 
branches  were  so  interlaced  across  the  bed  of  the  stream  that 
we  were  obliged  to  stoop,  and  at  times  to  crawl  along  on  all 
fours.  We  were  about  500  yards  from  where  the  bear  had 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          65 

been  left,  but  the  blood  on  the  stones  enabled  us  to  follow  the 
track  with  ease. 

We  kept  a  sharp  look-out  ahead,  expecting  to  come  on 
the  wounded  beast,  and  at  length,  in  turning  an  angle  of  the 
nullah,  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  bear  moving  up  the  bank  in 
the  thick  bush.  We  were  unable  to  get  a  shot  at  him,  but 
kept  our  rifles  ready,  and  on  coming  up  to  the  spot  we 
found  the  dead  bear  lying  on  the  stones.  It  turned  out  to  be 
a  large  female,  and  the  one  which  we  had  seen  moving  off  was 
evidently  the  he  bear,  who,  finding  the  carcass  of  his  spouse 
on  the  previous  night,  had  managed  to  push  or  drag  it  all  this 
distance.  We  were  much  struck  by  his  conjugal  affection,  as 
his  grief  was  no  doubt  genuine,  and  not,  as  is  perhaps  the 
case  with  some  other  animals,  simulated  out  of  deference  to 
public  opinion. 

He  must  have  moved  the  body  with  great  care,  and 
evidently  hoped  that  if  he  could  only  get  her  home  to  their 
cave,  he  would  be  able  by  assiduous  nursing  to  restore  her  to 
health.  She  was  a  large  bear,  and  very  heavy  and  fat,  but  he 
had  moved  her  throughout  the  night  with  such  gentleness  that 
the  skin  was  quite  uninjured. 

We  carried  her  to  the  tent,  and,  after  skinning,  cut  off  all 
the  fat,  collecting  a  large  quantity,  which  we  boiled  down  and 
bottled  off  for  our  lady  friends  in  the  cantonment.  I  have 
been  told  that  any  efficacy  which  may  exist  in  bear's  grease 
"  for  promoting  the  growth  of  the  hair"  is  only  to  be  found  in 
the  fat  cut  off  the  loins  and  hams — in  fact,  the  external  grease, 
and  that  the  internal  fat  of  the  animal  is  no  better  than  that 
from  a  sheep  or  bullock.  On  this  subject,  however,  I  must 
consult  my  hairdresser. 

WTe  found  the  neighbourhood  of  our  camp  a  good  deal 
disturbed  by  herdsmen  and  woodcutters,  and  during  the  two 

F 


66  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

following  days  I  only  came  on  one  lot  of  bison.  At  one  of 
these  I  had  a  fair  shot  at  about  sixty  yards,  but  wishing  to 
get  nearer  I  was  advancing  through  some  thick  bush,  when  I 
alarmed  another  which  I  had  not  previously  seen.  He  dashed 
out  of  a  mass  of  creepers,  and  I  had  a  snap  shot  at  him,  but 
he  held  on,  and  we  could  hear  the  herd  crashing  along  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  dislodging  gravel  and  stones,  which 
rolled  down  with  much  clatter.  We  looked  in  vain  for  traces 
of  blood,  and  returned  to  camp  empty-handed. 

Our  leave  being  now  nearly  up,  we  had  to  move  back 
towards  Kolapoor. 

My  friend  had  been  out  some  time  previously  in  the 
jungles  along  the  Ghauts  when  on  his  way  to  the  coast.  At 
one  village  where  he  was  encamped  he  heard  great  stories  of 
numbers  of  sambur  which  frequented  the  spot,  and  how  they 
came  out  at  night  to  graze  about  the  cultivated  lands.  He 
accordingly  directed  his  servants  to  be  on  the  look-out  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  tent,  and,  as  the  moonlight  was  bright, 
he  hoped  to  get  a  shot.  Towards  midnight  a  sambur  was 
said  to  have  been  seen  in  a  field  not  far  off,  and,  taking  a  rifle, 
Pogson  sallied  forth.  Seeing  a  dark  object  among  some  low 
bushes,  he  made  a  successful  stalk,  and  when  sufficiently  near 
loosed  his  piece.  The  animal  made  off,  but  one  of  the  servants, 
on  hearing  the  shot,  came  up  with  a  dog,  which  was  at  once 
put  on  the  track.  The  dog  went  off,  but,  as  he  did  not  return 
for  some  time,  Pogson  went  back  to  the  tent.  At  length  the 
dog  appeared  with  much  blood  about  his  muzzle,  and,  making 
up  his  rnind  that  he  would  find  his  game  in  the  morning,  my 
friend  went  to  bed  again. 

At  an  early  hour  he  was  awoke  by  the  sound  of  voices, 
and  on  coming  out  he  found  the  whole  village  community 
assembled  in  front  of  his  tent.  The  head  men  came  forward 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          67 

and  informed  him  that  they  were  all  much  distressed  and 
shocked  at  finding  the  Sahib  had  shot  a  very  holy  cow,  which 
had  been  allowed  to  roam  at  will  about  the  village.  They 
then  took  him  to  the  spot,  where,  sure  enough,  lay  a  red  cow 
dead,  with  a  bullet-hole  through  her  shoulder,  and  the  marks 
of  the  dog's  teeth  in  her  throat. 

Pogson  expressed  much  regret,  and  offered  to  pay  for  the 
cow,  but  was  informed — no  doubt  much  to  his  own  satisfaction 
— that  the  cow  was  sacred,  and  could  not  be  sold  for  money. 
The  villagers  behaved  very  well,  and  said  it  had  been  the  fate 
of  the  cow  to  die  by  the  Sahib's  bullet,  and  there  was  an  end 
of  the  matter. 

About  the  close  of  the  year  we  received  our  marching 
orders  for  Guzerat.  This  district  we  had  always  heard  of  as 
abounding  in  game  of  all  sorts ;  and  we  were  not  sorry  to 
leave  the  Deccan,  where,  to  say  the  most  of  it,  our  bag  had 
been  but  small. 

We  marched  to  the  port  of  Wagotun,  on  a  river  about 
twelve  miles  from  the  sea.  Here  we  found  a  number  of 
coasting  boats,  twenty-two  I  think,  waiting  for  us  ;  and  we 
were  told  off  to  these  according  to  their  capacity. 

A  few  of  the  boats  had  cabins  ;  these  were  assigned  to 
married  officers.  I  had  a  party  of  about  seventy-five  men 
and  women,  for  many  of  our  men  moved  with  their  families. 
Our  boat  had  a  split  bamboo  mat  for  a  deck,  and  the  men 
took  up  their  quarters  on  it  as  best  they  might.  The  boat 
had  no  cabin,  and  the  only  spot  which  afforded  any  shade  from 
the  sun  was  under  a  platform,  whereon  sat  the  steersman.  This 
was  by  courtesy  supposed  to  be  my  cabin,  but  it  was  filled 
with  bags  of  provisions  for  the  men  ;  and  during  the  eleven 
days  occupied  in  the  passage  I  sat  above  in  the  sun,  and  tried 
to  console  myself  with  the  idea  that  I  was  serving  my  country. 


CHAPTEE  IV, 

Landing  in  Guzerat — Saras  shot — Broach — Quail-shooting — Expedition  to 
Nandode — Tiger-shooting  at  night  from  Platforms — Tiger  missed — An 
untoward  Snooze — Sliced  Hyaena — Opium-eaters — Bear  shot — Bear  shot 
near  its  Cave — Gratuitous  Feast  to  a  Tiger — Panther  shot — Toorun  Mall 
Hill — A  Tiger  poisoned — Smoking  out  a  Tiger — Dubka — Big  Boar 
wounded— Boar  slain — Alligators — One  shot— Pebbles  in  Alligators — 
Powaghur — Sambur-shooting  on  the  Hill— Thrilling  Adventure  with  a 
Goat. 

IT  was  late  one  evening  when  our  boat  reached  its  haven  in 
the  creek  known  as  Tunkaria  Bunder,  one  of  the  chief  ports 
in  Guzerat  for  the  export  of  cotton  and  opium.  Notwith- 
standing the  great  trade  of  the  place,  there  were  no  facilities 
whatever  for  the  landing  or  shipping  of  goods,  and  the 
coasting  vessels  were  simply  moored  to  the  bank  of  a  muddy 
creek. 

We  were. all  glad  to  get  ashore.  The  caste  of  many  of 
the  men  had  prevented  them  from  cooking  on  board,  and  they 
had  subsisted  during  the  voyage  on  parched  grain  and  sugar. 
These  now  set  to  work  to  collect  material  for  a  heavy  feed ; 
but,  as  it  was  too  late  to  pitch  tents,  we  all  returned  to  sleep 
on  board  the  boat.  I  had  my  bed  made  in  the  stern  of  the 
vessel,  and  made  up  my  mind  for  a  comfortable  night's  rest. 

About  midnight  I  was  awakened  by  finding  my  cot  flying 
across  the  boat,  and  I  was  brought  up  against  the  side  in  an 
avalanche  of  boxes,  etc.  There  was  a  great  outcry  among  the 
men,  and  on  extricating  myself  I  ascertained  that  the  boat, 
which  had  been  moored  on  the  mud,  had  been  left  by  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          69 

receding  tide,  and  had  consequently  heeled  over,  and  lay  com- 
pletely on  her  side.  We  had  some  difficulty  in  settling  down 
again,  and  on  the  day  breaking  we  all  landed  and  joined  the 
camp.  We  were  halted  here  two  or  three  days,  waiting  for 
some  of  the  boats  that  had  not  arrived.  When  the  whole 
regiment  was  landed,  the  head-quarters  moved  on  Baroda,  and 
the  major,  another  subaltern,  and  myself,  with  three  companies, 
were  told  off  for  detachment  duty  at  Broach. 

I  was  much  struck  by  the  numbers  of  wildfowl  and  game 
of  all  sorts  which  surrounded  us.  Every  field  was  swarming 
with  quail,  and  in  every  patch  of  rushes  we  found  snipe,  while 
the  pools  furnished  ducks  of  many  kinds,  and  waders  innumer- 
able. Here,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  the  coolen — a  large  blue 
crane,  which  comes  in  great  numbers  in  the  cold  weather ;  and 
I  here  fell  in  for  the  first  time  with  the  sarus,  a  huge  bird, 
also  of  the  crane  family.  They  are  very  numerous  in  Guzerat 
and  Central  India,  feeding  in  the  corn-fields,  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  tanks  and  rivers.  They  are  generally  found 
in  even  numbers.  Every  Jack  is  supposed  to  have  his  Jill, 
and,  according  to  native  report,  the  death  of  one  is  soon 
followed  by  that  of  the  other.  I  have  at  times  seen  them  in 
large  numbers  together,  generally  in  the  sandy  bed  of  some 
river,  where  they  assemble  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  or  at 
night.  The  bird  is  of  a  light  blue  colour,  with  some  white 
about  the  tail ;  the  head,  and  about  eight  inches  of  the  neck, 
are  bright  red,  but  nearly  devoid  of  feathers.  The  natives 
regard  them  with  some  degree  of  veneration,  and  they  are 
seldom  molested  by  the  European  sportsman. 

Soon  after  landing  I  was  out  after  snipe,  having  with  me 
several  small  dogs.  I  was  beating  a  patch  of  rushes,  when  I 
saw  two  of  the  huge  birds  above  mentioned  flying  towards 
me,  uttering  their  peculiar  cry.  I  had  loaded  with  No.  8,  but 


TO  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  dropped  a  ball  into  one  barrel,  over  the  shot,  and,  crouching 
down,  awaited  their  approach.  They  came  on  with  the  inten- 
tion of  alighting  among  the  rushes,  and  had  almost  touched 
the  ground,  when  they  saw  the  dogs,  and  turned  upwards. 
The  male  bird  presented  a  large  surface,  and  I  fired,  sending 
the  ball  through  his  breast,  and  at  the  same  time  peppering 
him  with  the  small  shot.  He  fell  dead,  and  we  secured  and 
carried  him  to  camp,  where  I  gave  him  to  some  of  my  men, 
who  declared  that  he  would  be  as  good  as  half  a  goat.  He 
was  about  six  feet  in  length,  from  the  toe  to  the  extremity  of 
the  beak.  I  have  often  thought  that  these  birds  would  be 
good  for  food,  but  I  never  heard  of  any  European  trying  them  ; 
nor  do  I  think  that  during  all  my  residence  in  India  I  ever 
fired  at  another. 

The  road  for  the  first  few  miles  from  Tunkaria  is  about  the 
worst  in  Guzerat,  and  consists  simply  of  a  number  of  parallel 
ruts,  so  deep  that  the  bottoms  of  the  carts  often  scrape  the 
earth  between  them.  In  these  ruts  the  dust  accumulates  to 
the  depth  of  many  inches,  and  when  raised  by  the  march  of  a 
body  of  men  it  becomes  very  distressing. 

We  started  one  very  cold  morning  at  about  3  A.M.,  our 
detachment  being  in  front  of  the  regiment.  I  was  mounted 
on  a  pugnacious  pony,  but  I  was  too  cold  to  attend  to 
him,  and,  having  got  him  into  a  rut  behind  the  band,  I 
lit  my  cigar  and  rolled  myself  up  in  my  cloak.  We  had 
thus  advanced  for  some  miles,  when  the  march  was  checked 
by  some  obstruction,  and  as  we  halted  the  dust  rose  thick  and 
white.  Suddenly  my  pony  gave  a  scream,  and  rose  on  his 
hind  legs,  and  I  could  just  make  out  that  he  was  in  furious 
combat  with  the  major's  horse,  when  we  all  seemed  to  tumble 
over  together.  I  thought  I  should  be  jammed  against  the 
bank,  but  managed  to  kick  myself  clear.  Some  of  the  men 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          71 

rushed  forward  and  secured  the  horses,  while  a  friendly 
drummer  dragged  out  the  nearly  expended  major,  who  had 
sustained  a  sharp  contusion  on  the  shoulder.  On  assembling 
at  breakfast,  I  received  the  thanks  of  the  regiment  for  my 
laudable  endeavours  to  accelerate  promotion. 

After  the  first  march  we  left  the  main  body,  and  made  our 
way  to  Broach,  where  I  was  stationed  for  some  ten  months. 

On  the  south  bank  of  the  Nerbudda,  which  flows  by  the 
town  in  a  stream  half-a-mile  in  width,  we  got  some  first-rate 
quail-shooting.  Below  the  town  we  found  birds  in  immense 
numbers  in  the  fields,  and  higher  up  we  made  large  bags  in 
the  bastard  cypress  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  They  were  so 
numerous  that  a  couple  of  guns  could  kill  seventy  and  eighty 
brace  with  ease  in  a  few  hours,  and  frequently  they  rose  so 
fast  that  we  were  obliged  to  cease  firing  to  allow  our  guns  to 
cool.  The  natives  catch  large  numbers  in  traps  made  of  the 
stalk  of  the  millet,  which  they  shape  into  a  small  box  and 
bait  with  a  head  of  grain,  the  trap  being  like  a  figure-of-4  trap. 
Numbers  also  are  killed  with  arrows  having  a  blunt  head  of 
hard  wood  as  large  as  a  florin.  The  natives  stalk  them  as 
they  dust  themselves  in  the  cart-ruts,  and  often  kill  several 
at  one  shot.  I  am  not  aware  whence  these  quails  come. 
They  appear  about  the  end  of  November,  and  are  gone  again 
by  March.  In  this  respect  they  are  similar  to  the  mass  of 
the  wildfowl  and  snipe,  which  I  suppose  are  driven  down  by 
the  cold  from  the  north.  Our  bag  was  generally  varied  by  a 
few  brace  of  gray  and  painted  patridge  and  hares,  and  not 
unfrequently  by  a  civet  or  large  wild  cat. 

Further  up  the  Nerbudda,  near  Nandode,  where  the  river 
enters  the  jungles,  tigers  are  found ;  but,  though  I  went  on 
two  occasions  for  several  days  at  a  time,  we  were  unable  to 
make  anything  of  them,  owing  to  our  not  knowing  the  country, 


72  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

or  having  no  authority  among  its  inhabitants.  On  the  first  ex- 
pedition, my  friend  and  I  had  just  passed  through  a  village  at 
some  distance  from  any  jungle,  and  had  been  assured  by  the 
villagers  that  tigers  were  unknown  among  them,  when  we 
were  addressed  by  a  man  in  charge  of  some  cattle,  who  begged 
that  we  would  shoot  the  tigers  which  had  killed  several  of 
his  beasts.  On  our  doubting  his  statement,  he  drew  our 
attention  to  numerous  footprints,  almost  obliterated  by  those 
of  the  cattle  which  had  passed  over  them.  They  were  in  all 
directions,  close  up  to  the  houses,  and  the  tigers  seemed  to 
have  been  walking  about  the  village  all  night.  We  were 
much  astonished  at  this,  for  I  had  never  before  known  tigers 
wander  so  close  to  human  habitations.  The  man  informed 
us  that  they  came  from  a  belt  of  ravines  and  jungle  about 
two  miles  farther  on,  and  about  a  mile  from  the  bank  of  the 
Nerbudda.  He  accompanied  us  for  some  distance,  and  showed 
us  their  tracks,  both  new  and  old,  along  some  cart-ruts  formed 
in  bringing  grain  from  the  fields.  As  the  moon  was  near  the 
full,  we  determined  to  sit  up  in  trees  at  night,  and  rode  on  to 
our  camp  to  make  the  necessary  preparations. 

We  at  once  sent  off  men,  who  erected  two  platforms  in 
trees  about  half-a-mile  apart.  Bound  the  edges  of  these  seats 
we  had  screens  formed  of  boughs,  selecting  those  with  soft 
leaves,  to  prevent  any  rustling  or  noise.  Goats  were  tied  with 
strong  ropes  on  the  south  side  of  the  trees,  about  fifteen  yards 
from  our  hiding-places,  in  such  positions  that,  as  the  moon 
came  round,  they  would  remain  clear  of  the  shade.  My  tree 
was  on  the  path,  that  of  my  companion  nearer  the  village,  both 
in  open  cultivated  ground,  but  clear  of  crops.  About  nine 
o'clock  I  saw  a  tiger  come  across  the  field  and  stand  in  the 
clear  moonlight  about  100  yards  from  my  tree.  I  had  made 
up  my  mind  that  he  would  come  along  the  road  and  I  should 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          73 

get  a  good  shot,  when  suddenly  another  tiger  came  skylarking 
at  him,  and,  with  a  playful  growl,  they  both  ran  across  and 
disappeared  behind  a  rising  ground.  I  had  waited  for  about 
half-an-hour,  hoping  to  see  them  again,  when  I  heard  my  friend 
fire,  and  soon  after  some  men  came  to  call  me,  and  I  left  my 
tree  and  joined  him.  The  tigers  had  come  close  to  where  he 
was  posted,  and  one  of  them  came  straight  at  his  goat,  sprang 
on  it,  and,  having  killed  it,  walked  forward  for  a  few  paces 
with  his  tail  straight  up. in  the  air.  At  that  moment  my 
friend  fired,  but  unfortunately  missed,  and  the  tiger  went  off 
at  speed.  In  his  way  lay  a  cactus  hedge  nine  or  ten  feet  in 
height,  and  this  he  appeared  to  have  taken  in  his  spring,  for 
we  found  the  footprints  deep  in  the  light  soil  on  the  far  side. 
The  tigers  did  not  return. 

On  the  following  evening  we  sat  up  in  trees  on  the  other 
side  of  the  ravines.  On  this  occasion  my  platform  had  been 
built  in  a  prickly  babool  tree,  and  was  only  accessible  with  a 
ladder.  My  friend,  having  seen  me  in  my  place,  carried  it 
off  to  enable  him  to  mount  his  own  tree,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  off.  The  moon  did  not  rise  till  some  little  time  after 
sunset,  and  having  been  out  all  day  I  was  tired  and  fell  asleep, 
with  my  rifle  projecting  from  a  small  porthole  in  the  screen 
of  boughs.  I  suppose  I  turned  in  my  sleep,  and  thereby 
raised  the  stock  of  the  gun,  for  I  was  awoke  by  hearing  it 
rattling  through  the  branches,  and  on  looking  down  I  beheld 
it  on  the  ground  with  the  stock  broken.  Having  no  means 
of  descent,  I  was  unable  to  recover  it,  so  composed  myself  to 
sleep  till  morning,  when  my  companion  returned  and  enabled 
me  to  come  down.  No  tigers  had  appeared  during  the  night. 

Next  day  we  crossed  the  Nerbudda,  and  went  to  the 
village  of  a  small  chief,  who  assured  us  that  his  country 
swarmed  with  game,  and  that  the  viUage  was  nightly  beset 


74  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

by  all  manner  of  savage  beasts.  I  knew  enough  of  these 
gentry  to  prevent  me  from  placing  much  reliance  on  his 
statement ;  however,  we  had  no  better  amusement  in  view, 
so  we  rode  off  to  his  place,  and  had  platforms  again  made  in 
trees.  I  was  posted  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  was  close  to 
the  village  ;  but  the  chief  assured  me  that  that  was  the 
principal  resort  of  all  the  tigers  in  the  country.  A  goat  was 
tied  up  below  me,  but  he  seemed  to  consider  himself  in  no 
danger,  and  after  watching  for  some  hours  I  fell  asleep.  I 
was  awoke  by  the  goat  moving  about  and  bleating,  and  on 
peeping  out  I  saw  a  large  hysena  walking  round  him,  and 
apparently  in  doubt  as  to  whether  he  should  make  a  meal 
of  him.  As  there  was  no  prospect  of  nobler  game,  I  thought 
I  might  as  well  make  game  of  him,  and,  as  he  seemed  much 
inclined  to  rush  at  the  goat,  I  fired  and  shot  him  through  the 
loins,  disabling  his  hind  quarters.  Hearing  some  of  the 
chief's  people  above  me  in  the  village,  I  called  out  and  told 
them  to  knock  the  hysena  on  the  head  and  take  him  away,  in 
the  hope  that,  as  morning  was  still  far  off,  some  other  beast 
might  come.  Three  or  four  men  at  once  came  running  down 
the  hill,  and  I  could  see  their  swords  gleaming  in  the  moon- 
light ;  when  they  found  that  there  was  nothing  'more  formi- 
dable than  an  old  hysena,  they  went  in  at  him  with  the  most 
determined  courage.  Next  morning,  when  we  came  down 
from  our  trees,  I  found  the  ground  covered  with  blood,  and 
all  the  marks  of  a  great  struggle. 

My  companion  had  seen  nothing,  so  we  went  up  to  the 
village  to  get  a  drink  of  warm  milk.  The  first  thing  we 
observed  on  coming  up  to  the  house  was  a  cart,  upon  which 
was  lashed  the  ignoble  carcass  of  the  hysena,  in  order,  as  the 
villagers  said,  that  we  might  take  it  to  our  own  camp  in  case 
we  wished  to  preserve  the  skin.  We  went  up  to  the  spot 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          75 

and  examined  the  beast,  which  we  found  cut  and  slashed  with 
swords  in  all  directions,  and  altogether  presenting  a  very 
gruesome  spectacle. 

On  turning  into  the  courtyard  of  the  chiefs  house,  we 
found  him  and  his  merry  men  just  rousing  themselves  from 
the  dose  which  overtakes  habitual  opium-eaters  ;  for  they 
cannot  be  said  to  enjoy  what  other  men  call  sleep.  I  never 
saw  such  a  wretched-looking  parcel  of  vagabonds.  Generally 
I  had  seen  them  rather  smart  and  dandified  in  their  attire, 
but  they  now,  one  and  all,  looked  more  dissipated  and  untidy 
than  I  can  describe.  Their  beards  were  tangled,  and  I  could 
not  help  laughing  as  they  tried  to  open  their  gooseberry  eyes 
and  wish  us  good  morning.  They  had  not  had  their  morning 
dram  of  opium  ;  and  till  it  was  ready  for  them  they  squatted 
round  the  verandah  of  the  courtyard,  with  looks  of  the  most 
hopeless  imbecility.  Soon  a  woman  of  the  establishment 
appeared,  and,  taking  a  piece  of  cotton  wool,  spread  it  out 
about  the  breadth  of  a  saucer.  She  then  took  a  lump  of 
opium,  which  she  scraped  and  rolled  up  in  the  cotton.  The 
whole  was  then  saturated  with  water,  which  she  squeezed  and 
sopped  into  the  palm  of  her  hand  till  she  succeeded  in  pro- 
ducing a  strong  brown  liquid.  She  then  went  to  the  chief, 
and,  holding  her  hand  to  his  lips,  poured  the  opium  into  his 
mouth,  after  which  the  cotton  was  again  saturated  with  water, 
and  the  operation  repeated,  till  every  gentleman  had  had  his 
"morning."  The  effect  was  wonderful ;  in  ten  minutes  they 
all  began  to  brighten  up ;  and  when  they  had  washed 
their  faces  and  bound  on  their  turbans,  it  would  have  been 
difficult  to  recognise  the  seedy-looking  fellows  of  the  pre- 
vious half-hour.  This  custom  of  eating  opium  is  almost 
universal  among  the  Eajpoots  of  Guzerat  and  Central  India. 
Every  man  carries  it,  and  on  two  chiefs  meeting  they 


76  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

take  opium  together,  as  Scotsmen  are  popularly  supposed  to 
take  snuff. 

After  a  drink  of  warm  milk  we  returned  to  our  tents, 
shooting  partridges  on  the  way.  Passing  through  a  bit  of 
jungle,  I  saw  a  large  hawk  fly  up  from  the  ground,  and  on 
going  to  the  spot  found  a  hare  which  he  had  just  killed.  It 
was  only  a  little  damaged  about  the  head,  so  we  carried  it  off 
and  had  it  jugged  for  dinner. 

Hearing  of  some  bears  at  a  place  called  Wuggeria,  where 
there  were  some  low  hills,  we  moved  our  camp  there.  We 
found  three  small  table  hills  lying  close  together,  having  their 
sides  covered  with  stunted  trees,  while  round  the  tops  were 
precipitous  rocks  and  caves,  giving  good  shelter  to  bears. 
A  tiger  was  also  reported  to  frequent  the  neighbourhood.  An 
old  Mahomedan  shikaree  offered  to  show  us  the  ground,  and 
we  went  out  under  his  guidance.  He  led  us  along  the  top  of 
one  of  these  hills  to  a  spot  overhanging  a  mass  of  rocks,  into 
which  we  heaved  some  big  stones.  Two  bears  rushed  out, 
and  went  down  the  hill  at  a  headlong  pace.  We  opened  fire 
and  knocked  over  the  largest,  but  he  picked  himself  up  and 
went  on.  We  could  see  he  was  severely  gruelled,  and,  reload- 
ing, scrambled  down  after  him.  We  found  him  lying  in  a 
small  ravine,  and  he  at  once  charged,  with  loud  grunts,  but 
we  again  bowled  him  over,  and  he  made  off ;  being  again  shot 
in  the  rear,  he  turned  and  made  a  last  attempt  to  charge,  but 
was  dropped  dead.  The  smaller  bear  got  off  unscathed,  and 
we  could  see  him  crossing  the  ravines  in  his  flight  for  a 
considerable  distance. 

Our  leave  being  up,  we  had  to  return  to  Broach, 

During  the  next  hot  season,  when  we  were  quartered  at 
Baroda,  Hayward  and  I  organised  another  expedition  to  the 
Toorun  Mall  hill,  in  the  Akranee  Pergunnah  of  Kandesh. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          77 

We  made  first  for  these  hills  at  Wuggeria,  but  on  inquiring 
for  the  old  shikaree,  we  were  informed  that  he  had  gone  to 
the  happy  hunting-grounds,  so  we  had  to  procure  another 
guide.  Early  next  morning  we  ascended  one  of  the  hills,  with 
some  men  from  the  village,  and  carefully  examined  all  the 
rocks  along  the  crest.  We  had  been  looking  down  from  one 
spot,  where  there  were  large  masses  of  rocks,  and  seeing  no- 
thing, we  had  moved  away  some  paces,  when  we  were  startled 
by  the  discharge  of  a  matchlock  just  behind  us.  We  hurried 
back,  and  found  one  of  the  villagers  seated  on  the  edge  of  the 
rock,  whence  he  had  fired  at  a  hyaena.  As  we  were  scolding 
him  for  shooting  without  orders,  six  or  seven  hyaenas  ran  out 
from  the  rocks  below  us,  and  made  off  down  the  hill.  The 
noise  we  had  made  alarmed  a  large  bear,  which  had  been  also 
lying  among  the  rocks,  and  it  made  a  rush  for  its  cave,  which 
was  close  by.  We  opened  fire,  and,  confused  by  our  shots,  the 
bear  went  at  a  hole  too  small  to  admit  it ;  and  as  it  struggled 
in  the  entrance,  we  emptied  our  remaining  barrels.  It  man- 
aged, however,  to  withdraw  its  body,  and  disappeared  under  a 
huge  mass  of  rock.  Beneath  this  was  a  cave,  having  another 
small  opening  tending  upwards  to  the  edge  of  the  rock,  and 
having  on  its  immediate  left  a  perpendicular  mass  of  stone, 
many  feet  in  height.  We  could  hear  the  bear  in  the  cave 
below ;  and  on  looking  down  through  the  opening  above  men- 
tioned, I  could  see  its  eyes  below  me.  From  the  position  of 
the  hole,  however,  I  could  not  get  my  rifle  to  bear  upon  him, 
except  by  firing  from  the  left  shoulder.  This  I  did  ;  and  from 
the  struggles  below,  we  knew  that  the  shot  had  taken  effect. 
After  some  time,  one  of  my  horse-keepers  who  was  with  us  got 
down  to  the  spot  where  the  bear  had  entered,  and,  taking  a 
knife  in  his  teeth,  he  crawled  in.  I  followed  him,  and  we 
found  ourselves  in  a  small  cave,  the  end  of  which  was  blocked 


78  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

by  a  mass  of  rock,  having  a  hole  under  it,  through  which  the 
bear  had  passed.  Into  this  hole  the  man  crept,  and  dis- 
appeared, till  I  saw  nothing  but  his  feet.  Presently  he  called 
out  that  he  had  hold  of  the  bear,  and  requested  me  to  pull  his 
legs.  Laying  down  my  rifle,  I  hauled  away,  and  succeeded  in 
drawing  out  man  and  bear  into  the  outer  cave,  whence  the 
beast  was  dragged  by  the  rest  of  the  party.  I  was  much 
pleased  by  the  pluck  shown  by  my  man,  for  his  entry  into  the 
cave  was  a  purely  voluntary  act  on  his  part,  and  contrary  to 
the  advice  of  the  villagers,  who,  one  and  all,  declared  that  he 
would  be  killed. 

In  the  dry  bed  of  a  river,  close  to  the  village,  was  a  water- 
hole  used  by  the  cattle,  and  we  were  informed  that  a  tiger 
came  there  every  night  to  drink.  We  had  been  out  all  day 
without  getting  a  shot ;  and  on  our  return  late  in  the  evening, 
we  found  that  some  men,  who  had  promised  to  have  a  plat- 
form erected  in  a  neighbouring  tree,  had  decamped,  leaving 
their  work  undone. 

The  moon  did  not  rise  till  after  nine  o'clock,  so  we  re- 
mained till  then  in  the  village,  and  then  went  down  to  the 
water-hole,  where  we  had  a  small  breastwork  of  boughs 
placed  round  the  foot  of  an  old  tamarind  tree.  In  the  open 
space  in  the  bed  of  the  river  we  tied  up  a  goat,  and  throwing 
our  blankets  into  our  hiding-place,  we  arranged  our  guns,  and 
dismissed  all  our  attendants.  As  we  came  down  from  the 
village,  we  had  heard  the  tiger  growling  on  the  hill-side ;  but 
though  we  remained  on  the  alert  a  long  time,  we  saw  nothing 
of  him.  It  had  been  arranged  that  if  the  tiger  came,  and 
sprang  on  the  goat,  we  should  lie  still  till  he  commenced  to 
eat,  when  we  were  to  rise  on  our  knees  and  deliver  our  fire. 
Altogether,  it  was  rather  an  insane  proceeding  ;  but  we  were 
young  in  those  days. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          79 

About  midnight  Hayward  was  lying  fast  asleep,  when  I . 
heard  the  growl  of  the  tiger  at  a  short  distance  on  the  hill 
behind  us.  I  at  once  aroused  my  companion,  and  we  could 
see  by  the  movements  of  the  goat  that  it  was  in  a  great  state 
of  trepidation.  Presently  we  heard  the  footsteps  of  the  tiger 
advancing  on  the  dry  leaves,  and  then  all  was  still,  save  the 
piteous  bleat  of  the  goat  as  it  strained  at  the  rope.  The 
tiger,  I  believe,  stalked  him  behind  the  very  tree  under  which 
we  lay,  and  in  a  few  seconds  he  made  his  rush.  We  kept 
well  down ;  there  was  a  struggle  among  the  shingle,  and  then 
all  was  still.  Thinking  that  the  time  had  arrived  for  us  to 
shoot,  we  raised  our  heads  and  saw — no  tiger — no  goat — no 
anything ! 

The  rope  had  given  way,  and  the  tiger  had  carried  his 
prey  under  some  thick  bushes,  on  the  far  side  of  the  river-bed. 
We  could  hear  him  crunching  up  the  bones  as  he  made  his 
meal ;  but  he  was  in  deep  shade,  and  we  could  see  nothing. 
About  two  hours  after  he  moved  to  a  muddy  puddle,  and 
drank.  We  then  got  an  imperfect  view,  and  had  a  snap  shot 
at  him,  but  he  got  away  untouched  ;  and  we  returned  to  the 
village  much  disappointed. 

Next  night  we  had  a  platform  put  up  in  a  tree  at  another 
spot,  and  again  tied  up  our  scape-goat.  We  took  up  our 
positions,  and  had  both  been  asleep,  when,  on  waking,  I 
looked  over  at  the  goat,  and  saw  that  it  was  tumbling  about 
in  a  peculiar  manner,  I  roused  my  friend,  and  after  looking 
long  in  the  imperfect  light,  we  made  out  a  panther, 'lying  by 
the  dead  goat,  with  his  teeth  in  its  throat.  As  the  beast  lay 
on  the  yellow  grass,  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could 
distinguish  it.  We  got  our  rifles  on  him,  and  fired  together, 
on  which  the  panther  gave  one  grunt,  and  rushed  oft  among 
the  underwood.  On  descending  next  morning,  we  examined 


80  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

the  ground,  and  found  both  the  bullets  in  the  earth,  within  a 
few  inches  of  each  other,  and  on  the  very  spot  where  the 
panther  had  been.  We  searched  about,  but  did  not  find 
him  ;  and  next  morning  we  moved  our  camp.  Two  days 
after,  some  villagers,  observing  vultures  attracted  to  the  spot, 
again  went  to  the  ground,  and  found  the  remains  of  the 
panther  lying  among  some  dead  leaves.  We  must  have 
passed  close  to  him  in  our  former  search,  but  his  yellow 
jacket  being  so  similar  to  the  dry  grass  and  leaves,  we  had 
failed  to  see  him,  and  thereby  lost  his  skin. 

We  had  several  days'  severe  marching  among  the  hills  to 
Dhergaum,  where  we  left  our  heavy  baggage  and  pack- 
bullocks,  and  set  off  to  the  Toorun  Mall  hill,  distant  some 
thirty  miles,  by  a  footpath  through  the  jungle.  We  camped 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  ascended  it  next  morning.  It  is, 
I  believe,  about  4000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  change 
of  climate  from  the  low  country  was  delightful.  There 
are  no  human  habitations  on  the  summit,  but  we  found  a 
fine  artificial  lake,  on  the  borders  of  which  we  encamped. 

On  the  way  up  we  came  upon  a  huge  tiger  hanging  on 
a  tree.  He  had  killed  a  cow  belonging  to  some  Bheels ;  they 
poisoned  the  carcass,  and,  on  his  return,  he  had  eaten  freely, 
and  there  and  then  died.  The  Bheels  had  pulled  out  his 
teeth,  claws,  and  whiskers,  and  then  hung  him  up  by  his  hind 
legs.  The  skin  not  being  broken,  the  action  of  the  sun  had 
swollen  the  body  to  a  huge  size,  and  he  looked  truly  gigantic ; 
but  having  hung  for  several  days  in  an  April  sun,  we  did 
not  care  to  inspect  him  very  closely. 

We  spent  several  days  on  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
There  were  bison  here,  but  not  being  present  in  any  official 
capacity,  we  were  unable  to  get  men  to  show  us  the  jungles, 
and  were  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  country  and  its 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          81 

inhabitants  to  work  them  properly.  We  bathed  frequently 
in  the  lake,  and  shot  a  number  of  small  jungle  antelope 
and  peafowl  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  On  our  home- 
ward march  we  again  passed  Wuggeria,  and  went  out  on 
the  hills  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  hoping  to  fall  in  with 
something.  As  we  were  ascending  a  spur,  we  espied  some 
animal  lying  under  a  ledge  of  overhanging  rock  in  a  bay 
formed  by  the  contour  of  the  hill  to  our  right.  We  had  no 
regular  shikarees — only  a  few  Bheels  picked  up  as  we  were 
leaving  the  village  ;  these  pronounced  the  beast  to  be  a 
hyaena,  and  we  decided  on  having  a  shot  at  him. 

Carefully  marking  a  tree  on  the  crest  of  the  rock  above 
him,  we  made  a  circuit,  and,  ascending  to  the  table-land,  came 
out  above  the  spot  were  we  had  marked  him.  Standing 
ready  to  open  fire,  we  directed  the  Bheels  to  heave  down 
stones,  which  they  did,  but  nothing  appeared.  We  concluded 
that  the  game  had  moved,  but  some  of  the  Bheels  crawled 
along  the  face  of  the  rock  like  monkeys,  and,  on  looking  over, 
ascertained  that  there  was  an  inner  cave  within  that  in  which 
we  had  seen  the  animal  lying.  It  was  evident  that  on  hearing 
us  he  had  quietly  risen  and  moved  in,  so  we  agreed  to  smoke 
him  out.  We,  therefore,  found  a  place  where  we  could  de- 
scend, and  so  passed  round  the  base  of  the  rock  to  the  cave. 

The  outer  part  was  triangular  in  shape — about  seven 
yards  wide  at  the  outside,  and  four  or  five  deep,  having  at 
the  farther  end  an  inner  cave  of  about  four  feet  high  by  two 
and  a  half  broad.  The  outer  cave  was  quite  open  in  front, 
and  seven  feet  high  at  the  outside.  From  the  cave  the  hill 
sloped  sharply  down,  covered  with  trees  and  bushes. 

Some  of  the  Bheels  advanced  to  the  mouth  of  the  inner 
cave,  and  looking  in,  saw  one  eye  of  the  creature,  like  a  ball 
^f  fire,  at  the  far  end  of  the  den.  We  endeavoured  to  get 

G 


82  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

a  shot,  but  owing,  I  suppose,  to  some  projecting  piece  of 
rock,  we  never  could  see  both  eyes  at  once,  and  two  shots 
which  I  fired  in  were  without  effect.  Meanwhile,  the  Bheels 
had  collected  a  large  bundle  of  grass  and  sticks,  which  we 
rolled  up  to  the  entrance  of  the  inner  cave,  and  having  set 
fire  to  it,  we  all  withdrew  to  the  mouth  of  the  outer  to  watch 
the  result.  There  was  a  most  thorough  draught  into  the  cave, 
and  the  flame  was  swept  into  it,  but  the  beast  made  no  sign, 
and  at  length  the  fire  died  down.  We  then  had  another  large 
bundle  of  dry  grass  made  up,  but  this  time  we  mixed  it  well 
with  green  leaves.  On  this  being  fired,  a  dense  black  smoke 
arose,  and  was  carried  into  the  cave.  It  was  such  that  we 
thought  no  beast  could  live  in  it ;  but  again  the  fire  died  out, 
and  though  the  inner  cave  was  filled  with  smoke,  its  tenant 
had  made  no  attempt  to  come  out.  We  had  just  made  up 
our  minds  that  he  had  died  in  the  hole,  when,  from  the  inner 
cave,  came  a  sudden  rush  of  smoke,  as  if  driven  out  by  some- 
thing advancing  rapidly.  We  stood  ready,  and  the  next 
instant,  through  the  embers  of  the  fire,  came — not  a  hysena — 
but  a  large  tiger,  charging  blindly,  with  savage  growls. 

Hayward  carried  a  short  rifle,  with  a  ball  of  some  three 
ounces  in  weight,  and  I  had  a  double  rifle  of  fourteen  bore. 
In  the  instant  that  elapsed  between  the  tiger's  emerging 
from  the  smoke  and  his  reaching  the  entrance  of  the  outer 
cave,  he  was  struck  by  the  three  balls.  Two  had  taken  him 
through  the  shoulder,  and  one  through  the  loins,  disabling 
his  hind  quarter.  As  he  fell  we  could  have  placed  our  guns 
on  his  head — too  near,  in  fact,  to  be  pleasant. 

Our  followers  behaved  with  great  steadiness,  and  at  once 
handed  us  our  second  guns.  By  this  time  the  tiger  had  managed 
to  drag  himself  from  the  cave,  and  having  got  on  the  slope 
of  the  hill,  he  was  evidently  unable  to  move  up  towards  us. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          83 

When  he  first  appeared,  the  Bheels  were  up  the  trees  in  an 
instant,  but  came  down  when  they  saw  him  fall,  and  assisted 
us  to  ascend  the  rock.  This  we  did  one  at  a  time,  the  other 
keeping  guard  in  case  of  accidents.  The  tiger,  though 
disabled,  was  very  savage,  and  had  plenty  of  life  in  him,  and 
crunched  the  underwood  savagely.  After  some  time  we  gave 
him  his  quietus,  and  carried  him  home  to  the  camp.  He  was 
no  doubt  the  same  beast  that  had  dodged  us  so  cleverly  at 
the  well,  but  we  had  checkmated  him  this  time.  From  his 
boldness  he  had  long  being  the  terror  of  the  village,  though 
we  did  not  hear  that  he  had  killed  any  one. 

After  this  exploit  we  returned  to  Baroda,  and  soon  after  I 
joined  some  friends  in  a  three  days'  pic-nic  to  Dubka,  on  the 
Mhye  river,  where  the  Guicowar,  who  rules  the  country,  has  a 
preserve  well  stocked  with  antelope  and  wild  hogs.  Besides 
myself,  there  was  only  one  of  our  party  endowed  with  sporting 
tendencies,  and  his  forte  was  more  in  the  saddle  than  with 
the  rifle.  The  Guicowar  had  given  us  permission  to  hunt, 
but  had  requested  that  no  firing  might  be  allowed  in  the  pre- 
serve. We,  therefore,  encamped  at  some  distance,  and  made 
preparations  for  an  early  start. 

My  companion  was  well  mounted  on  a  valuable  Arab.  I 
had  only  a  rough  but  strong  Deccan  pony,  so  did  not  expect  to 
take  a  very  active  part  in  the  morning's  work.  The  beaters 
had  been  sent  round  to  drive,  and  as  we  rode  through  some 
thin  cypress  jungle,  on  our  way  to  the  point  where  we  were  to 
take  up  our  position,  we  saw  a  huge  boar  returning  to  his  covert 
from  the  open  country  where  he  had  been  feeding  during  the 
night.  As  we  wished  to  get  him  as  far  as  possible  into  the 
open  ground  before  riding  at  him,  we  cantered  ahead,  and 
getting  between  him  and  the  jungle,  shouted,  and  turned  him 
back.  We  slowly  followed,  keeping  about  a  hundred  yards 


84  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

apart,  and  well  away  from  the  boar.  He  went  quietly  for  about 
half-a-mile,  and  then  seemed  to  think  he  had  gone  far  enough, 
for  he  stopped  and  faced  round.  He  was  in  front  of  me  at 
the  time,  and  was  hid  by  some  low  bushes.  My  friend  called 
to  me  to  look  out,  and  at  that  moment  the  boar  came  charging 
straight  at  me.  I  had  no  time  to  get  under  weigh,  but  my 
pony  behaved  admirably,  and  stood  like  a  rock.  As  the  boar 
came  on,  I  planted  my  spear  in  the  top  of  his  neck,  just 
behind  the  head.  The  blade  and  a  foot  of  the  shaft  were 
completely  buried,  but  he  gave  a  wrench  and  snapped  the 
bamboo  short  off.  I  turned  to  a  horseman  who  was  with  us, 
and  who  should  have  been  carrying  spare  spears,  but  he  had 
none,  and  when  I  looked  round,  the  pig  had  disappeared. 
Where  he  went  I  cannot  say,  but  I  never  saw  him  again.  I 
thought  then,  and  I  think  now,  that  had  my  companion  done 
his  duty,  he  should  have  finished  him.  The  jungle  was  thin, 
and  there  was  nothing  to  hide  the  pig ;  my  friend  was,  more- 
over, well  mounted,  and  had  seen  me  deliver  my  spear,  so  he 
had  no  excuse.  I  was  much  vexed,  for  the  boar  was  a  rattler, 
with  long  white  tushes.  We  hunted  about  for  some  time, 
but  could  find  no  trace  of  him,  and  as  by  this  time  we 
calculated  that  the  beaters  would  be  in  the  covert,  we 
moved  on,  to  intercept  any  pigs  which  they  might  start. 

We  had  not  been  long  by  the  covert-side  before  a 
fine  young  boar  broke  across  the  open  ;  and  this  time  I 
had  no  chance  of  a  spear,  for  my  friend  was  better  mounted, 
and  a  good  rider  to  boot.  The  boar  held  011  till  he  came 
to  some  thin  cypress  jungle,  over  which  we  raced  him, 
but  were  thrown  out  by  some  nasty  creeks.  He  dashed 
through  these,  sending  the  mud  flying  in  all  directions,  and 
by  the  time  we  had  managed  to  cross  where  the  bottom 
was  sounder,  he  was  far  ahead.  He  then  slacked  his  pace, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         85 

and  was  apparently  undecided  as  to  what  course  he  should 
take.  In  the  meantime,  we  made  play,  and  gained  on  him 
fast,  but  on  seeing  us  he  again  went  off  at  score,  but  he  was 
now  in  clear  ground,  and  my  companion  closed  in  and  gave 
him  a  good  spear.  In  another  moment  mine  was  through 
his  ribs,  when  he  made  a  sharp  and  plucky  charge  at  my 
friend,  who  met  him  well,  and  turned  him  over. 

By  this  time  the  sun  was  high,  and  we  returned  to 
our  camp,  which  was  on  a  high  bank  overhanging  the 
Mhye  river.  The  opposite  shore  was  muddy,  and  all  along 
the  edge  lay  huge  alligators  basking  in  the  heat.  Walking 
along  the  bank,  near  the  tents,  with  one  of  our  party,  I 
observed  a  large  one  which  had  crawled  out,  and  lay  high 
and  dry,  in  such  a  position .  that  we  could  stalk  close  up  to 
him.  We  made  a  circuit,  and  coming  straight  in  on  the 
bank,  saw  him  lying  about  thirty  feet  below  us.  We  gave 
him  four  barrels  before  he  could  reach  the  water,  into  which 
he  threw  himself,  lashing  about  with  his  tail  with  great 
violence.  From  the  mud  which  he  raised  we  could  see  he 
had  not  gone  far,  and  the  water  being  much  tinged  with 
blood,  we  knew  that  he  was  hard  hit.  We  returned  to  the 
tents  to  get  some  long  poles  wherewith  to  stir  him  up,  and 
on  our  return  we  found  he  had  come  out,  and  was  lying  dead 
upon  the  bank.  He  was  a  strong  heavy  beast,  over  twelve 
feet  in  length,  with  most  formidable  jaws.  I  had  him  carried 
to  the  tents,  where  I  removed  his  skin  and  preserved  it.  In 
his  stomach  we  found  a  hatful  of  pebbles,  some  of  which 
were  as  large  as  small  billiard-balls  ;  these  he  had  swallowed 
probably  to  assist  digestion. 

In  shooting  alligators,  I  have  generally  found  that  unless 
shot  dead  by  a  ball  in  the  head,  or  the  base  of  the  neck, 
they  will  struggle  into  the  water,  but  that,  if  left  alone, 


86  WILD  MEN  AND    WILD  BEASTS. 

they  will  return  to  the  shore  and  die  on  the  bank.  In  the 
same  way  the  large  turtles  which  frequent  the  Indian  rivers 
will  also  come  ashore  when  shot  through  the  body.  I  suppose 
they  are  distressed  by  the  water  entering  through  the  bullet- 
holes  in  the  hard  skin. 

About  twenty-five  miles  to  the  east  of  Baroda  is  the  hill- 
fort  of  Powaghur,  standing  at  a  height  of  2500  feet  above  the 
sea.  It  is  much  frequented  during  the  hot  weather  by  the 
officers  of  the  cantonment,  with  their  families.  The  base  and 
sides  of  the  hill  are  clothed  with  heavy  jungle,  well  stocked 
with  sambur,  and  having  a  fair  sprinkling  of  tigers,  bears, 
and  panthers. 

The  sambur  lie  in  the  ravines,  far  up  the  hill-side,  and 
require  hard  work  to  bag  them.  My  friend  Hayward  did 
more  execution  among  them  than  any  one  else,  and  his  plan 
was  to  ascend  the  mountain  before  daybreak,  and  take  up  his 
position  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  hill,  at  the 
highest  point  accessible  to  the  deer.  Beaters,  who  had  been 
sent  for  the  purpose,  would  then  come  up  the  ravine,  driving 
the  deer  before  them.  The  sambur  would  move  up,  till  the 
rocks  became  too  abrupt  for  them  to  ascend  higher,  when 
they  would  skirt  the  precipice  to  pass  over  the  spur  into  the 
next  ravine.  The  hinds  always  came  first,  then  the  smaller 
stags,  and  if  there  was  a  big  one,  he  invariably  came  last. 
They  were  not  therefore  bagged  without  considerable  exercise 
of  self-denial  on  the  part  of  the  sportsman,  for,  as  it  could 
never  be  known  that  the  old  stag  was  with  the  herd  till  he 
made  his  appearance,  it  was  not  safe  to  fire  at  the  small  ones  ; 
and  if  there  was  no  big  one,  the  chance  of  the  lesser  was 
often  lost  before  the  fact  was  ascertained. 

Officers  visiting  the  hill  from  Baroda  generally  made  the 
journey  during  the  night,  as  the  toilsome  ascent  was  best  got 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         87 

over  in  the  early  morning.  There  was  one  man  who,  by  his 
own  account,  had  been  a  most  intrepid  sportsman,  though  we 
had  never  known  him  bag  anything  more  formidable  than  a 
quail.  One  morning  he  started  up  the  hill  by  the  only  foot- 
path. The  day  had  not  yet  broken,  and  on  getting  into  the 
jungle  he  heard  the  steps  of  some  beast  following  him.  He 
halted,  and  the  sounds  ceased  ;  but  on  his  advancing,  they 
were  again  heard.  Becoming  somewhat  nervous,  he  kept  his 
rifle  ready,  and  at  length  saw  what  his  diseased  imagination 
led  him  to  believe  was  a  huge  tiger.  He  at  once  loosed  his 
piece,  and  shouted  loudly,  but  was  only  answered  by  the 
bleating  of  a  goat,  which  had  followed  him  from  the  village, 
and  which  he  fortunately  had  missed  in  his  excitement. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Guzerat — Game — The  Revenue  Survey — "The  Hunt" — Dongurwah  Meet — 
Disputed  Spear — Finishing  off  a  Boar  on  foot — A  Bloody  Draught — The 
Race  not  always  to  the  Swift— A  Sell  for  a  Boaster — Boar  dropped  with  a 
single  Spear — Thorns  in  Horse's  Legs  :  Treatment — A  Day's  Shooting  at 
Dongurwah — Hunt  Meet  at  Vinjool — Three  Hogs  slain — Land  Tortoises — 
Chinkara-shooting — Three  Bucks  shot— All  Smoke — Sporting  Attendant. 

THE  district  of  Guzerat  is  the  best  in  the  Bombay  Presidency 
for  game  of  all  kinds  ;  and  the  town  of  Ahmedabad,  directly 
connected  as  it  is  by  rail  with  the  Presidency,  is  a  most  con- 
venient starting-point. 

In  addition  to  the  British  Civil  Station,  there  is  a  military 
cantonment,  and  the  latter  has  a  good  racecourse,  where  there 
is  an  annual  meeting,  as  well  as  sky  races,  generally  got  up 
during  the  monsoon.  Game  of  many  kinds  abounds  within 
easy  distances;  and  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  antelope, 
chinkara,  and  nylghae,  are  to  be  found. 

The  cold  season,  commencing  in  November,  brings  in  duck, 
quail,  and  snipe ;  and,  as  soon  as  the  rain  crops  are  off  the 
ground,  good  hog-hunting  can  be  got  in  many  places.  The 
country  is  for  the  most  part  very  fertile,  so  much  so  that  Guzerat 
is  fairly  styled  the  Garden  of  Western  India.  From  a  few 
miles  south  of  Baroda,  and  as  far  as  Ahmedabad,  the  line  of 
railway  passes  through  a  succession  of  highly-cultivated  fields 
for  upwards  of  eighty  miles.  These  fields  are  generally  fenced 
with  high  cactus  hedges,  covered  with  flowering  creepers,  and 
the  whole  is  richly  wooded  with  noble  trees,  the  larger  pro- 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  89 

portion  being  mango.  To  the  west  of  the  Samburmuttee  river* 
which  flows  under  the  walls  of  the  town  of  Ahmedabad,  the 
country  is  more  open  and  less  cultivated,  but  in  many  parts 
are  immense  tracts  covered  with  wheat  and  cotton.  Conti- 
guous to  these  are  often  found  extensive  salt  plains,  to  which 
the  Saiseen  antelope  retire  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  return- 
ing again  in  the  evenings  and  at  night  to  feed  in  the  fields, 
where  they  do  great  damage  to  the  crops.  The  cultivators 
seldom  interfere  with  them,  but  endeavour  sometimes  to  drive 
them  off  by  placing  fuel  in  long  stripes  along  the  edges  of  the 
fields.  In  the  evening  they  ignite  these  at  the  ends  next  the 
wind,  and  the  fire  smoulders  till  morning.  The  plan  is  not, 
however,  very  efficacious.  The  Jeytulpoor  country,  lying 
south  of  Ahmedabad,  is  richly  wooded,  and  in  many  parts 
nylghae  and  chinkara  are  very  numerous.  There  are  also  many 
good  tanks,  and  in  these,  and  in  the  rice-fields  which  they 
irrigate,  excellent  snipe-shooting  is  to  be  had  in  the  months 
of  December  and  January.  I  seldom  cared  to  shoot  more 
than  twenty  or  thirty  couple  at  one  time  ;  but  on  one  occasion 
I  remember  two  men  going  out  twenty  miles  to  their  ground, 
and  shooting  during  that  day  and  for  three  hours  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  and  returning  to  the  cantonment  with  120 
couple  of  snipe. 

I  was  at  this  time  appointed  to  the  Guzerat  Eevenue  Survey, 
a  branch  of  an  establishment  which  has  done  much  to"  concili- 
ate the  natives,  and  to  consolidate  our  empire  in  Western  India. 

Throughout  India  the  population,  with  the  exception  of 
Bheels  and  other  jungle  tribes,  resides  entirely  in  towns  and 
villages.  To  each  of  these  the  land  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
belongs,  and  it  is  either  cultivated  by  individuals,  or  reserved 
for  grazing  by  the  community  in  general. 

Previous  to  our  occupation  of  the  country,  the  boundaries 


90  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  townships,  except  in  cultivated  districts,  were  vaguely 
defined.  But  now  that  life  and  property  are  secure,  and  the 
population  has  confidence,  the  cultivated  area  has  greatly 
increased,  and  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  have  all  bound- 
aries accurately  laid  down. 

When  the  Survey  was  establishod,  village  maps  did  not 
exist,  and  the  village  accountants  merely  had  rough  books, 
containing  vague  and  unsatisfactory  entries  regarding  the 
tenure  and  rent  of  the  lands. 

A  very  large  proportion  of  the  best  lands  was  alienated 
from  the  state,  and  held  by  individuals  on  old  grants,  subject 
generally  to  certain  payments. 

The  rents  paid  to  Government  were  excessive,  and  much 
land  lay  waste. 

Moreover,  on  wells  being  dug,  or  other  improvements 
effected  by  cultivators,  they  were  at  once  subjected  to  an 
increased  assessment  on  the  improved  value  of  their  holdings. 

For  the  correction  of  these  matters  the  Kevenue  Survey 
was  established. 

The  Guzerat  Branch  consisted  of — 

1  Superintendent ; 

6  Measuring  Assistants  ; 

2  Classing  Assistants. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  department  these  were  all  officers  of 
the  army,  or  gentlemen  of  the  uncovenanted  civil  service. 

The  superintendent  directed  the  whole,  and  assigned  his 
work  to  each  assistant. 

The  measuring  assistants  had  each  under  him  twenty 
native  surveyors  and  eight  learners. 

The  native  surveyors  were  appointed  to  survey  the  various 
villages  about  the  country ;  and  they  conducted  their  work 
with  chain  and  cross-staff. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          91 

They  were  at  work  at  daybreak,  accompanied  by  the 
village  authorities,  and  in  a  rough  field-book  all  entries 
regarding  the  tenure,  holder,  cultivator,  and  area,  of  a  few 
fields,  were  daily  made. 

On  going  home  these  entries  were  written  out  in  a  fair 
book,  and  a  plan,  drawn  on  a  scale,  was  made  of  each  field 
which  had  been  measured  that  day. 

The  fields  were  then  daily  added  to  the  large  map  of  the 
village  under  survey. 

Eoads,  tanks,  or  ponds,  wells,  etc.,  were  all  shown  on  the 
plan. 

Boundaries  of  fields  were  marked  by  stones  or  mounds  of 
earth. 

The  classing  assistants  had  each  under  him  twelve  native 
classers,  and  each  had  to  go  over  as  much  ground  as  three 
measuring  assistants. 

Their  duties  were  to  examine  and  class  the  soil  according 
to  its  capability. 

This  they  did  by  ascertaining  the  depth  and  nature  of  the 
soil.  All  land  was  divided  into  first,  second,  and  third  classes  ; 
and  the  standard  was  lowered  as  deteriorating  qualities 
existed. 

Mixture  of  lime,  gravel,  sand  and  clay,  and  salt,  were 
held  to  be  bad,  as  was  also  liability  to  flooding  in  the  rainy 
season,  or  a  surface  whence  the  rainfall  would  at  once 
run  off. 

All  unculturable  land  was  deducted  from  the  gross  area. 

Finally,  the  area  being  fixed,  the  field  was  classed  accord- 
ing to  its  merits,  the  great  object  being  to  secure,  by  constant 
supervision  and  co-operation,  that  lands  of  equal  value  should 
be  entered  by  the  various  native  classers  according  to  the 
same  standard,  and  consequently  in  the  same  class. 


92  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Ten  per  cent  of  all  work  done  by  native  measurers  or 
classers  was  tested  by  the  European  officers. 

On  the  completion  of  the  survey  and  classing,  the  books 
and  maps  were  made  over  to  the  settlement  officers,  who  were, 
usually,  the  superintendent  of  the  survey  and  a  revenue  officer 
of  experience. 

These  determined  the  rent  to  be  paid  on  the  lands,  and 
they  were  assisted  by  the  best  local  advice. 

In  this  matter  all  minor  details  were  duly  considered — 
viz.  the  area ;  the  soil ;  the  distance  of  the  land  from  the 
village  and  from  water  ;  and  the  distance  of  the  village  itself 
from  the  nearest  market. 

The  settlement  was  made  for  thirty  years,  and  the  rents  fixed 
were  so  low,  that  not  only  were  large  tracts  of  waste  at  once 
brought  under  cultivation,  but  many  lands  which  had  been 
granted  away  on  yearly  payment  were  given  up,  the  holders 
preferring  to  give  the  new  and  diminished  rent. 

The  full  value,  up  to  the  end  of  the  settlement,  was 
secured  to  the  cultivator  for  any  improvements  he  might 
effect. 

The  land  was  secured  to  the  cultivator  so  long  as  he  con- 
tinued to  pay  his  rent ;  while,  011  the  other  hand,  he  was  at 
full  liberty  to  give  it  up  at  any  time,  on  giving  intimation 
previous  to  the  5th  of  June. 

At  the  time  I  write  of  we  had  an  institution  called  "  The 
Hunt,"  got  up  for  the  furtherance  of  hog-hunting,  and  a  small 
monthly  sum  was  collected  from  subscribers.  With  this  the 
Hunt  paid  for  a  shikaree,  whose  duty  it  was  to  go  about  the 
country  and  ascertain  where  pigs  were  to  be  found  in  rideable 
ground.  The  Hunt,  moreover,  paid  for  the  cost  and  carriage 
of  a  large  mess-tent  and  a  mess -table,  and  provided  candles 
and  cards.  On  hunting  days  half  the  cost  of  the  beaters  was 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         93 

also  defrayed  out  of  this  fund,  the  other  half  being  paid  by 
the  sportsmen  present.  The  meets  generally  lasted  from  four 
to  six  days — alternate  days  being  devoted  to  hunting  and 
shooting. 

The  locality  being  fixed  on,  the  mess-tent  was  sent  out, 
and  every  man  intending  to  be  present  sent  on  his  servants 
with  a  small  sleeping-tent  and  a  goodly  store  of  provender 
of  all  kinds — both  solid  and  fluid — and  as  many  horses 
and  ponies  as  he  could  muster.  The  shikaree  and  his  assist- 
ants were  out  long  before  daybreak,  and  took  up  positions  in 
trees  whence  they  could  watch  the  pigs  as  they  returned  to 
the  coverts  from  their  feeding  grounds.  By  eight  o'clock  he 
generally  reappeared,  and  gave  in  his  report  to  the  captain  of 
the  Hunt,  by  whom  the  programme  for  the  day  was  arranged. 
About  9  A.M.  there  used  to  be  a  general  shout  for  breakfast, 
and  each  man's  servant  brought  in  a  dish  or  two  to  the  mess- 
tent,  and  the  table  speedily  groaned  with  viands  of  sorts. 

The  appearance  of  our  camp  was  highly  effective.  It  was 
generally  situated  in  some  grove  of  grand  old  mangoes.  In 
the  centre  stood  the  mess-tent,  amongst  the  trees  were  dotted 
the  small  sleeping  tents,  and  besides  each  of  these  were  picketed 
three  or  four  steeds,  whose  numerous  attendants  lay  about  on 
the  ground  wherever  they  could  find  shade.  By  half-past  ten 
we  were  in  the  saddle,  and  seldom  had  far  to  go  before  reach- 
ing the  covert-side.  The  horsemen  were  sent  to  their  places 
by  the  captain,  and  though  at  times  some  were  unruly,  we 
were,  for  the  most  part,  orderly  and  well  conducted.  Our 
favourite  meet  was  at  Dongurwah,  about  thirty  miles  to  the 
north  of  Ahmedabad.  Pigs  were  always  plentiful,  and  on  the 
alternate  days  there  was  abundance  of  game  of  all  kinds,  for 
both  gun  and  rifle. 

The  mess-table  was  always  liberally  supplied.     In  addition 


94  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

to  beef,  mutton,  hams,  and  tongues,  we  had  ducks  of  many 
kinds  ;  teal,  snipe,  quail,  Saiseen  antelope,  chinkara  ;  and  the 
marrow-bones  and  tongue  of  the  nylghae,  while  his  head  was 
generally  potted  and  served  up  cold  ;  partridges — painted, 
gray,  and  rock — and  hares  in  plenty  ;  and,  to  crown  all,  pork 
chops  and  the  soused  head  of  the  mighty  boar  himself. 

The  field  was  generally  well  attended,  and  sharp  contests 
for  the  honour  of  the  first  spear  were  numerous.  At  times 
this  emulation  led  to  hot  and  strong  discussions  ;  for  in  the 
excitement  of  a  chase,  when  several  pigs  were  on  foot  at 
once,  and  when  possibly  the  hunted  boar  might  be  changed 
during  the  run,  it  was  not  always  an  easy  matter  to  say 
whose  spear  had  drawn  first  blood. 

I  well  remember  an  occasion  when  a  warm  dispute  for  the 
tushes  had  at  last  been  decided  between  two  rival  horsemen 
by  a  toss-up.  The  beaters  were  proceeding  to  open  the  beast, 
and  only  then  discovered,  deeply  buried  in  the  boar's  neck, 
the  spear-head  of  a  third  horseman,  whose  claim  to  the  tushes 
had  been  utterly  ignored,  but  who  had  in  reality  drawn  first 
blood.  The  boar,  after  being  first  speared  by  him,  had  in  his 
course  passed  through  a  thicket  of  high  grass  and  bushes,  and 
on  emerging  on  the  far  side  was  supposed  to  be  a  fresh  one  ; 
hence  the  dispute  which  had  so  narrow  an  escape  of  an  unjust 
decision.  The  head  of  the  first  spear  had  broken  short  off, 
and  was  completely  buried  in  the  muscles  of  the  neck. 

In  some  parts  of  the  Dongurwah  country  there  were  dense 
thorny  thickets  which,  though  of  no  great  extent,  were  quite 
impenetrable  for  horsemen,  and  on  a  wounded  boar  gaining  the 
shelter  of  one  of  these,  there  was  much  difficulty  in  dislodging 
him.  We  had  had  a  severe  run  after  a  very  large  old  boar ; 
he  was  badly  speared,  but  managed  to  reach  one  of  these,  and 
all  our  attempts  to  induce  him  again  to  break  cover  were  in 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         95 

vain.  The  beaters  came  up  and  advanced  with  fiendish  yells, 
blowing  horns  and  beating  drums.  Stones  were  showered  into 
the  bush,  and  a  sharp  fire  of  blank  cartridge  was  kept  up  by 
a  party  of  the  Guzerat  Kolee  corps  who  had  accompanied  us. 
The  boar,  however,  knew  the  strength  of  his  position,  and 
refused  to  show  himself  again  in  the  open  ground.  He 
might,  of  course,  have  been  shot,  but  such  a  proceeding 
would  have  been  regarded  in  the  same  light  as  the  shooting 
of  a  fox  in  Leicestershire  ;  so  as  we  could  not  in  honour  ride 
away  and  leave  him,  it  was  agreed  that  we  should  dismount 
and  go  in  at  him  on  foot  with  our  spears. 

The  project  was  a  rash  one,  for  though  a  spear  is  a  handy 
weapon  when  used  from  horseback  in  open  ground,  it  is  not 
quite  so  suitable  when  going  in  at  an  infuriated  boar  in  a 
tangled  thicket  of  thorns  and  long  grass.  We  did  not,  however, 
give  this  part  of  the  matter  much  consideration.  We  were 
about  eight  in  number,  and  in  the  event  of  any  one  of  us  being 
in  difficulties  we  relied  on  our  comrades.  The  boar  had  taken 
his  stand  in  the  centre  of  the  thicket,  which  was  some  fifty 
yards  across,  and  we  moved  slowly  in  on  him,  with  our  spears 
shortened  and  pointed  in  advance.  My  greatest  danger 
seemed  to  be  from  my  neighbour  on  the  left,  who,  relinquish- 
ing his  spear,  had  armed  himself  with  a  sharp-pointed  crooked 
sword  which  he  had  taken  from  one  of  the  beaters,  and 
which  he  held  over  his  shoulder  in  painful  proximity  to  my 
countenance. 

Towards  the  centre  of  the  thicket  the  ground  was  some- 
what clearer,  and  most  fortunately  the  boar  selected  the 
moment  at  which  we  gained  this  spot  to  make  his  charge. 
With  savage  grunts  he  came  crashing  down  on  us,  and  evi- 
dently intended  to  make  an  ugly  hole  in  some  one,  but  we 
stood  steady,  and  the  nearest  spears  were  buried  in  his  chest 


96  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

and  shoulders.  His  weight  and  impetus  were  great,  and  the 
tough  bamboo  spear-shafts  bent  under  the  strain,  but  we 
closed  in  on  him,  and  he  yielded  up  his  gallant  spirit. 

The  beaters  crowded  in  and  bore  him  from  his  lair,  and 
on  reaching  the  open  ground,  proceeded  to  "gralloch."  On 
removing  the  intestines,  a  large  quantity  of  blood  was  found 
in  the  carcass.  Diving  their  hands  into  the  body,  they  scooped 
out  the  warm  blood  and  drank  it  greedily,  wiping  their  en- 
sanguined fingers  on  their  long  beards  and  moustache.  The 
effect  was  truly  startling,  but  they  seemed  to  enjoy  it,  and 
for  all  that  I  can  say  to  the  contrary,  it  may  have  been  very 
good  tipple. 

Many  of  these  men  carried  "  boomerangs, "  a  weapon  I 
have  never  seen  used  in  any  other  part  of  India.  It  was 
made  of  dark  heavy  wood,  two  inches  broad,  three  quarters  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  about  two  and  a  half  feet  long,  sharpened 
at  the  edges.  These  they  threw  with  great  force,  and  would 
not  unfrequently  knock  over  hares  and  partridges  as  they  rose 
during  the  beat. 

Although  in  hog-hunting  it  is  advantageous  to  be  well 
mounted,  yet  many  spears  are  taken  by  men  on  steady  old 
horses,  held  well  in  hand.  Young  high-couraged  horses  are 
often  hard  to  hold,  and,  to  enable  the  rider  to  work  his  spear 
properly  the  right  hand  should  be  free.  I  have  seen  the 
spear  taken  from  a  field  mounted  on  high-priced  horses, 
by  an  old  stager  riding  a  steady  screw  that  would  not  fetch 
£10.  One  member  of  the  Hunt  often  rode  a  small  dark 
chestnut  pony,  about  thirteen  hands  high.  The  man  was  over 
six  feet  in  height,  and  it  seemed  incredible  that  the  rat  he 
bestrode  could  carry  his  weight.  The  pony  was  a  most 
vicious  little  beast,  and  when  at  his  picket  would  rush  open- 
mouthed  at  any  one  who  approached  him  ;  but  his  blood  and 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          97 

pluck  were  undeniable,  and  it  was  a  rare  sight  to  see  him  and 
his  rider  hurl  themselves  into  a  ten-foot  hedge  and  kick  and 
struggle  till  they  forced  a  passage.  When  let  out  at  a  boar, 
the  pony  thoroughly  entered  into  the  sport ;  and,  thanks  to 
his  speed  and  game  running,  his  owner  frequently  carried  off 
the  spear. 

Old  boars  are  often  very  cunning,  and  will  hang  back  in 
a  thicket  when  the  rest  of  the  sounder  breaks,  stealing 
quietly  off  when  the  field  is  in  hot  pursuit  of  some  of  the 
smaller  pigs.  As  a  rule,  they  do  not  give  so  fast  a  run  as  a 
young  boar  or  a  long-legged  sow ;  but  when  brought  to  bay 
they  are  awkward  customers,  and  frequently  leave  their  mark 
on  their  pursuers.  Our  beaters  were  ripped  on  several  occa- 
sions, but  fortunately  the  wounds  were  not  severe,  and  were 
confined  to  the  legs.  .  The  cut  of  a  boar's  tusk  is  peculiar,  and 
is  generally  of  the  form  of  the  letter  L,  like  a  tear  in  woollen 
cloth.  Although,  when  charging,  they  come  on  with  savage 
grunts,  they  seldom  cry  out  when  speared ;  and  a  pig  who 
dies  with  a  squeal  is  generally  regarded  as  an  ignoble  beast, 
having  in  his  veins  the  blood  of  domestic  ancestors. 

I  remember  a  joke  played  off  on  a  man  whose  deeds  in 
the  saddle  were  not  supposed  to  lose  aught  of  their  import- 
ance by  his  own  description  of  them.  Some  youngsters  of  the 
cantonment,  having  purchased  a  village  pig,  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  sending  it  out  for  a  mile  or  two  in  a  cart,  and  hunting 
it  home  with  long  bamboos.  By  this  course  of  training,  the 
piggy  acquired  wind  and  some  degree  of  speed.  At  length, 
on  a  day  appointed,  he  was  taken  out  and  secured  by  the  leg 
in  the  covert.  The  usual  party,  with  the  addition  of  the 
mighty  hunter,  were  assembled  at  the  mess  tiffin,  when  a 
native  came  up  and  reported  a  fine  boar  marked  down. 
Horses  and  spears  were  called  for,  and,  with  the  guide  in 

H 


08  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

advance,  all  proceeded  to  the  jungle-side.  Nimrod  announced 
his  intention  of  refraining  from  all  active  part  in  the  pro- 
ceedings, on  the  ground  that  it  would  be  unfair  for  an  old 
experienced  hunter  like  himself  to  take  the  spear  from  a  lot 
of  young  fellows  to  whom  the  sport  was  new.  He  was,  how- 
ever, assured  that  without  his  valuable  aid  the  game  would 
probably  escape,  and  that  it  was  therefore  hoped  he  would 
not  practise  such  extreme  self-denial.  On  the  riders  taking 
up  their  positions,  men  were  sent  to  free  the  obscene 
beast,  which  speedily  appeared ;  and,  in  expectation  of  the 
customary  chevy,  made  off  at  its  best  pace.  By  judicious 
management,  all  the  field  got  thrown  out  with  the  exception 
of  Nimrod,  who  was  seen  riding  like  a  man,  and  coming  up 
to  the  pig,  hand  over  hand.  Making  a  well-directed  rush, 
with  a  triumphant  shout,  he  speared  the  beast,  and  a  few 
more  thrusts  rolled  it  over.  The  other  riders  now  gathered 
round  the  redoubtable  hunter,  who  was  seen  standing  by  the 
prostrate  "  gaumtee,"  waving  his  cap  and  brandishing  his 
blood-stained  spear.  "  Gentlemen !"  he  cried,  "  it  was  too 
bad  of  me !  but  really  when  I  saw  the  boar  break  cover,  my 
blood  got  up,  and  I  was  quite  unable  to  restrain  myself ! " 
At  this  moment,  a  villager,  who  had  been  previously  well 
coached,  came  running  up  and  demanded  payment  for  his 
property.  It  was  long  before  Mmrod  again  entertained  the 
mess  with  his  hunting  exploits. 

Although  large  boars  often  showed  fight,  and  gave  trouble, 
at  times  they  were  laid  low  by  a  single  spear.  One  morn- 
ing we  were  hunting  in  a  difficult  country,  covered  with 
scrub-bush,  through  which  it  was  difficult  to  urge  a  horse 
at  great  speed,  when  a  stout  young  boar  was  seen  crossing 
the  cover  at  some  distance  ahead.  He  was  going  at  a  sharp 
pace,  and  as  he  already  had  a  good  start,  the  word  to  ride 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          99 

was  at  once  given.  Away  we  went,  threading  through  the 
bush  at  a  smart  gallop.  Hearing  us  coming  up,  the  boar 
halted  for  a  moment,  and  again  started  off.  We  now  settled 
down  to  the  work,  and  were  gaining  on  him,  when  one  of  our 
party,  who  had  been  at  some  distance  from  us  when  we 
started,  came  down  on  the  pig  at  a  right  angle.  The  boar 
never  swerved,  but  apparently  charged  straight  ahead,  and 
with  the  intention  of  cutting  the  fore  legs  of  the  horse  from 
under  him.  How  the  horse  escaped  we  could  not  imagine. 
The  boar  seemed  to  cross  under  his  neck,  and  both  were  going 
at  their  best  pace.  In  an  instant  the  rider  dropped  the  point 
of  his  spear  between  the  shoulders  of  the  boar,  and  with  a 
convulsive  struggle  it  rolled  over,  quite  dead. 

The  thorns  through  which  we  hunted  told  heavily  on  the 
legs  of  the  horses,  and  they  were  often  much  swollen  after  a 
hard  day's  work.  A  favourite  remedy  was  the  red  earth  from 
the  nests  of  white  ants,  boiled  up  with  the  leaves  of  the  neem- 
tree,  till  the  whole  formed  into  a  thick  paste.  With  this  the 
legs  were  plastered,  from  above  the  knees  downwards  ;  and 
the  mud  on  drying  formed  a  sort  of  bandage  round  the  leg. 
In  the  early  morning  the  horses  were  often  taken  down  to  the 
nearest  tank,  and  kept  standing  for  fifteen  minutes  in  the  cold 
water.  These  combined  remedies  seemed  to  draw  out  the 
thorns  to  the  surface,  whence  many  were  extracted  by  careful 
horsekeepers  ;  and  I  have  seen  a  man  come  up  with  the  back 
of  his  currycomb  covered  with  large  thorns,  which  he  had 
picked  out  from  the  legs  of  the  horse  under  his  charge. 

During  the  meet, —  on  the  days  devoted  to  shooting, 
we  generally  started  off  in  pairs,  armed  with  gun  and  rifle, 
and  taking  a  light  shooting-cart  to  carry  home  the  game.  I 
was  out  one  day  with  a  civilian  who  was  passionately  fond  of 
the  chase  in  all  its  branches.  We  laid  in  a  good  lunch,  and 


100  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

cooling  beverages  of  sorts,  and  started  off  after  breakfast. 
A  mile  or  two  from  camp  we  came  on  a  small  herd  of  chinkara, 
and  conspicuous  among  them  was  a  fine  buck.  They  were 
standing  about,  in  a  partially  cultivated  piece  of  ground,  crop- 
ping the  young  shoots  of  bair-bushes.  Dropping  off  our  horses, 
we  walked  on  the  far  side  of  the  shooting-cart,  which  was 
slowly  driven  past  the  deer.  Seeing  us,  they  moved  off  for  a 
short  distance,  and  stood  scattered  over  the  side  of  a  slight 
rise.  The  buck  gave  a  fair  chance,  and  the  Collector  dropped 
him  neatly  with  a  shot  through  the  shoulders. 

Placing  him  in  the  cart  we  again  mounted  and  moved  on, 
and  soon  came  on  a  herd  of  nylghae.  One  of  my  attendants 
had  asked  me  to  procure  for  him  the  skin  of  an  old  bull,  as  he 
required  it  to  make  a  shield.  Observing  a  very  fine  blue  fellow 
standing  out  by  himself,  at  some  distance  from  the  rest,  we 
decided  that  he  was  a  proper  beast  for  the  purpose.  On  this 
occasion,  it  was  my  turn  to  shoot,  and  working  up  to  within  a 
hundred  yards,  I  drew  the  bead  on  his  shoulder.  As  I  pressed 
the  trigger  the  bull  wheeled  round,  and  the  ball  struck  him 
too  far  back.  He  was,  however,  badly  wounded,  and  went  off 
slowly.  Eunning  back,  the  Collector  mounted  his  horse,  and 
gave  chase.  As  he  closed  on  the  bull  he  delivered  his  spear 
behind  the  shoulder,  and  narrowly  escaped  a  kick,  which  would 
probably  have  broken  his  leg  had  it  taken  effect.  The  spear- 
thrust  proved  deadly,  and  the  beast  fell  over,  after  going  a  short 
distance.  As  we  did  not  fancy  taking  him  about  with  us  all 
day,  we  dragged  him  to  some  thick  bushes,  where  the  vultures 
could  not  see  him,  and  covering  him  up  with  boughs,  we  left 
him  till  we  returned  in  the  evening. 

Farther  on,  we  came  on  a  herd  of  Saiseen  antelope, 
but  my  companion  missed  a  tolerably  good  buck,  and 
knocked  over  a  fat  doe,  which  was  grazing  just  beyond 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         101 

him.  We  now  came  on  a  country  fairly  stocked  with 
hares  and  partridges,  but  as  deer  were  likely  to  be  scared 
by  much  firing,  we  did  not  interfere  with  them.  In  a  patch 
of  scrub  jungle,  we  came  on  six  or  seven  chinkara,  and  I  shot 
the  best  buck.  The  rest  ran  a  short  distance  and  stood,  when 
the  Collector  rolled  over  a  doe  in  good  style.  Our  bag  was 
now,  one  nylghae,  one  antelope,  and  three  chinkara,  so  we 
thought  we  had  fairly  earned  our  luncheon.  Not  far  off  was  a 
well  shaded  by  trees,  where  some  cultivators  were  busy  with 
their  bullocks,  irrigating  a  field.  Here  we  halted.  Our  own 
bullocks  were  unharnessed  and  watered,  and  while  we  emptied 
the  luncheon-basket,  they  and  our  horses  took  their  mid-day 
feed  of  grain.  Then  a  smoke  and  a  confabulation,  and  we 
again  turned  homewards.  On  our  way  we  shot  two  more 
chinkara,  and  picked  up  the  blue  bull  which  we  had  shot  in 
the  morning.  Altogether,  the  load  in  the  cart  was  about  as 
much  as  it  would  hold.  The  blue  bull  was  taken  charge  of  by 
one  of  my  gun-bearers,  who  removed  the  skin  by  cutting  it 
down  the  back  of  the  neck  and  spine,  thereby  preserving  un- 
damaged the  stout  skin  of  the  chest  and  throat,  which  is  prized 
as  a  defence  against  sword-cuts  and  arrows.  After  a  long  day 
in  the  sun,  a  tub  and  clean  clothes  were  very  refreshing,  and 
the  hour  before  dinner  was  pleasantly  passed  in  arm-chairs,  in 
an  open  spot,  where  we  assembled  to  smoke  our  pipes,  and  go 
over  the  adventures  of  the  day. 

There  was  a  sure  find  for  pigs  at  Vinjool,  about  eight  miles 
from  Ahmedabad ;  but  the  country  was  difficult,  and  hog 
were  only  got  by  hard  riding  and  good  luck. 

Part  of  the  ground  was  much  cut  up  by  rice-fields,  formed 
into  terraces,  with  mud-banks  between  them.  These  fields 
were  baked  in  the  sun  till  they  became  hard  as  bricks  ;  and 
woe  to  the  unlucky  man  who  got  a  cropper  among  them.  We 


102  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

were  also  frequently  troubled  by  a  nasty  nullah,  with  steep 
and  treacherous  banks,  winding  in  a  tortuous  manner  through 
the  line  of  country  which  the  pig  almost  invariably  took  ; 
and  in  many  parts,  the  cactus  and  milk-bush  hedges  grew  to 
the  height  of  eighteen  and  twenty  feet — too  thick  for  a  horse 
to  crash  through,  but  open  enough  below  to  allow  of  the  pass- 
age of  a  boar. 

We  had  a  good  meet  here  one  fine  morning,  the  attend- 
ance being  larger  than  usual,  owing  to  the  proximity  of  the 
cantonment.  Several  pigs  had  been  marked  into  some  low 
hills  covered  with  neem-trees,  and  having  in  parts  a  strong- 
undergrowth  of  bair-bushes.  They  were  started,  and  made 
off  across  the  rice-fields  at  a  great  pace.  We  were  soon  after 
them,  and  before  long,  a  gallant  officer  was  seen  to  get  a 
frightful  header  over  a  high  double  bank.  The  sounder 
broke  into  twos  and  threes,  and  I  found  myself,  and  two  other 
men,  after  a  stout  young  boar.  He  made  for  some  enclosed 
fields,  and  dashed  through  an  eighteen  feet  hedge.  Thinking 
I  saw  an  opening,  I  rode  at  it  and  crashed  through,  landing 
in  a  narrow  lane,  minus  my  stirrups,  which  had  been  drawn 
out  of  the  catches  by  the  resistance  of  the  hedge,  which  was 
strongly  laced  with  creepers.  Having  readjusted  the  stirrups, 
I  again  mounted  and  put  my  horse  at  the  hedge  on  the  other 
side,  and  somehow  we  struggled  through ;  but  by  this  time 
my  two  companions  and  the  boar  had  got  a  long  start  of 
me.  I  had  some  difficulty  in  getting  up  to  them,  and  only 
did  so  in  time  to  see  the  spear  taken.  The  boar  was  only 
slightly  pricked,  and  getting  close  to  the  side  of  a  high  over- 
hanging hedge  of  cactus,  he  held  on  at  a  good  pace,  and,  by 
crossing  through  where  he  found  an  opening  underneath,  left 
us  a  long  way  behind.  Finding  a  gap,  we  again  closed  with  him. 
He  was  now  very  savage,  and  as  we  came  up  he  shortened 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         103 

his  pace  and  prepared  for  a  sidelong  rush  at  the  nearest  horse, 
"  verris  obliquuru  meditantis  ictum."  Watching  his  oppor- 
tunity, he  suddenly  swerved  across,  but  was  checked  by  a 
clever  spear  in  the  shoulder,  and  in  another  instant  he  was 
rolled  over  by  a  cross  spear  behind  the  elbow,  which  finished 
him.  Meanwhile  the  rest  of  the  field  had  divided  into  two 
parties ;  one  of  which  had  lost  their  pig  in  the  nullah,  and 
the  other  had  slain  a  large  sow.  She  had  made  a  good  charge 
at  the  finish,  and  before  receiving  the  coup  de  grace  had  nearly 
bitten  through  the  boot  of  one  of  her  pursuers. 

About  mid-day  we  adjourned  to  the  tent  for  refreshment, 
and  by  the  time  we  had  rested,  the  Hunt  shikaree — who  had 
gone  off  on  the  track  of  a  small  boar  which  he  had  seen 
stealing  away  in  the  morning — returned,  having  succeeded  in 
marking  him  down.  His  hiding-place  was  watched  on  all 
sides  by  men  perched  on  trees.  We  set  out  at  once,  and  on 
arriving  at  the  spot  a  few  men  were  sent  into  the  cover  to 
dislodge  him.  Some  of  the  field  were  rather  noisy,  having 
taken  deep  draughts  of  beer-mug,  which  had  not  only  cheered 
but  also  slightly  inebriated.  Two  of  these  gentlemen  managed 
to  head  the  pig,  and  turned  him  back  into  cover ;  thereby 
calling  forth  a  well-merited  rebuke  from  the  captain  of  the 
Hunt.  After  some  trouble,  the  boar  was  again  driven  out, 
and  made  for  the  much-dreaded  nullah.  The  field,  however, 
spread  out  and  divided.  One  or  two  horsemen  kept  on  the 
far  side,  and  on  the  boar  attempting  to  cross  for  a  distant 
cover,  they  had  a  sharp  skurry,  and  the  spear  was  neatly 
taken  by  an  officer  of  the  Guzerat  Horse.  In  the  course  of 
the  afternoon  another  pig  was  started,  but  got  away  among 
difficult  ground  and  escaped.  While  watching  a  comer  of 
the  cover,  one  sportsman  saw  two  land  tortoises  crawl  out 
of  some  thorn  bushes,  and  dismounting,  succeeded  in  capturing 

I 


104  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

both.  We  returned  to  the  cantonment  by  moonlight,  and  as 
we  rode  along,  were  favoured  by  some  of  the  party  with  vocal 
music  of  a  high  order. 

In  some  parts  of  the  country  round  Vinjool,  chinkara  are 
plentiful,  and  it  was  here  I  had  my  first  day's  shooting  among 
them.  It  was  during  the  height  of  the  rainy  season,  and  I  had 
come  to  Ahmedabad  to  attend  the  races  which  were  held  that 
year.  Bowles  of  the  Eevenue  Survey  had  a  good  shooting-cart, 
which  we  sent  on  with  our  rifles  and  lunch,  and  cantered  out 
after  it  on  horseback.  The  millet  and  maize  crops  were  high, 
and  we  were  not  very  sanguine,  as,  during  the  heat  of  the  day, 
the  deer  take  much  to  the  shelter  of  the  tall  crops.  However, 
after  wandering  about  for  some  time,  we  spied  a  buck  feeding 
among  some  vetches,  and  succeeded  in  working  the  cart  up  to 
within  shooting  distance.  Bowles  would  not  fire,  as  he  wanted 
me  to  have  all  the  sport.  I  made  a  good  shot,  and  dropped  the 
buck,  but  he  rose  at  once  and  made  off ;  we  could  see,  how- 
ever, that  he  was  badly  hit,  and  he  soon  slackened  his  pace 
and  lay  down  among  some  low  bushes.  Had  we  attempted 
to  go  up  to  him  at  once,  he  would  probably  have  risen  and 
gone  off,  so  we  quietly  sat  down  and  watched  him  for  nearly 
an  hour.  By  this  time  his  wound  began  to  distress  him,  and 
when  we  again  advanced  he  allowed  us  to  approach  suffi- 
ciently near  to  give  him  a  final  shot.  We  then  went  on,  but 
saw  nothing  for  some  time,  so  sat  down  under  a  tree  and 
took  our  lunch.  Again  moving  on,  we  started  two  bucks, 
which  were  feeding  in  some  high  grain  in  our  left,  and  they 
ran  out  into  the  open  ground.  After  going  about  seventy  yards 
they  halted  and  stood  head  on  ;  I  fired,  and  dropped  one  in 
his  tracks,  shooting  him  through  the  chest ;  and  as  the  other 
bolted  off  I  gave  him  the  second  barrel,  hitting  him  through 
the  body.  He  was  completely  doubled  up,  and  soon  after  lay 
down,  when  we  captured  him  without  another  shot. 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         105 

The  heat  of  the  sun  during  the  monsoon  is  very  great,  and 
the  glare  from  the  large  white  clouds  has  a  more  scorching 
effect  than  at  any  other  time.  We  felt  it  very  much  on  this 
occasion,  and  having  three  deer  in  the  cart,  we  thought  we 
might  move  home.  So,  leaving  our  men  to  follow,  we  returned 
to  our  quarters. 

By  keeping  quiet,  and  watching  a  wounded  deer  for  some 
time,  much  trouble  may  be  saved.  Some  men  ride  down 
wounded  bucks  on  horseback  ;  but  the  plan  is  a  bad  one,  and 
should  be  avoided  if  possible,  as  the  other  deer  get  scared, 
and  subsequent  shooting  is  spoiled.  It  is,  however,  requisite 
to  keep  the  wounded  animal  in  view,  or  a  disappointment  may 
result. 

I  remember  one  man  who  fired  at  a  buck,  and  thought  he 
hit  it.  He  followed,  and  lost  sight  of  the  deer  ;  but  soon 
after  observed  a  brown  object  near  a  bush,  which  he  supposed 
to  be  the  wounded  antelope.  He  was  not  much  of  a  sports- 
man ;  but,  having  heard  us  recommend  the  above  course,  he 
determined  to  adopt  it.  Sitting  down,  he  lit  a  very  long 
Trichinopoly  cheroot,  and  smoked  it  out,  and  had,  I  believe, 
half  finished  a  second,  when  the  supposed  buck  turned  out  to 
be  only  a  large  hawk,  which  then  rose,  and  flew  lazily  away. 

When  stalking  antelope,  it  is  well  to  pay  some  attention 
to  the  selection  of  any  native  attendant  who  may  accompany 
you.  It  is  an  amusing  and  instructive  sight  to  see  a  youthful 
sportsman  crawling  up  to  a  herd  on  his  hands  and  knees, 
while  his  servant,  walking  bolt  upright,  gravely  follows  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  yards. 

The  result  may  be  imagined. 


CHAPTEE    VI. 

Antelope-shooting  on  the  Samburmuttee — Meytal — Peafowl-shooting — Ride 
Wounded  Buck  —  Do.  with  Dog  —  "White  Antelopes  —  Nylghae  —  Dog 
attacked  by  them — Three  shot — Rock  Snakes— Panther  shot  at  Surla — 
Invigorating  Drink— The  "Null" — Antelope — Coolen  and  Duck-shoot- 
ing— Shooting  in  Bedfordshire  —  Anecdotes — Antelope-shooting  from 
Pits — Gun  borrowed  and  returned. 

MY  chum,  Harrington  Bulkley,  than  whom  a  better  fellow  or 
more  keen  sportsman  never  breathed,  had  invited  me  and  a 
friend  who  was  staying  in  my  camp  to  pay  him  a  visit.  So 
we  made  an  early  start  one  morning  from  the  town  of 
Dholka,  and,  riding  eastward,  crossed  the  Samburmuttee 
river,  when  a  few  more  miles  brought  us  to  his  tents. 

He  was  most  comfortably  situated,  in  a  good  game  country, 
and  there  was  excellent  snipe-shooting  in  the  vicinity.  On 
arriving  at  the  tents  we  were  informed  that  our  host  was 
absent  in  Ahmedabad,  but  was  expected  home  that  morning  ; 
so,  after  a  cup  of  tea,  we  ordered  out  the  shooting-cart,  and 
went  in  quest  of  a  herd  of  antelopes  which  we  heard  were  in 
the  neighbourhood.  We  had  not  gone  a  mile  before  we  came 
upon  them,  some  fifteen  in  number,  and  among  them  four  or 
five  very  good  black  bucks.  My  friend  and  I  tossed  for  the 
shot,  and  the  luck  was  in  my  favour.  The  deer  had 
evidently  not  been  disturbed  much,  for  they  allowed  us  to 
get  within  easy  range.  My  first  shot  dropped  a  fine  buck 
dead,  and,  as  they  went  off,  another  fell  to  the  second  barrel. 
They  were  both  large  bucks,  and,  having  had  good  feed 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  107 

among  the  irrigated  fields,  were  in  excellent  condition.  We 
then  put  them  into  the  cart,  and  returned  to  the  tents  just  in 
time  to  meet  our  host  on  his  arrival.  He  gave  us  a  good  deal 
of  light  and  pleasant  chaff,  and  abused  us  for  disturbing  the 
game  so  near  home. 

It  turned  out  afterwards  that,  though  chinkara  were 
plentiful,  this  was  the  only  herd  of  antelope  within  some 
distance,  and  it  had  been  carefully  preserved  in  anticipation 
of  our  visit.  During  our  stay  we  were  joined  by  two 
gentlemen  of  the  Civil  Service,  and  had  two  days'  good  hog- 
hunting,  killing  several  pigs  on  both  occasions.  We  also 
made  some  good  bags  of  snipe  and  ducks.  Bulkley  and  I 
were  employed  together  for  some  time  at  Meytal — a  village 
about  fifteen  miles  west  of  Dholka.  This  was  an  excellent 
camp  for  game,  and  on  all  sides  the  Saiseen  antelope  swarmed. 
I  shot  one  very  fine  buck,  with  twenty-five  inch  horns.  He 
was  feeding  on  the  side  of  a  rising  ground,  about  a  mile  from 
camp,  and  I  was  at  once  struck  by  the  rich  purple-black  of 
his  skin  and  the  great  length  of  his  horns.  I  made  a 
successful  stalk,  and  put  a  ball  in  through  the  shoulders. 
He  went  only  a  short  distance,  and  then  ran  into  some  thorn 
bushes,  where  he  lay  down  and  was  easily  captured. 

Close  round  our  tents  were  some  low  sandy  hills,  slightly 
rising  above  the  plain,  and  covered  with  neem-trees  and 
thorny  bushes.  Hares  were  plentiful,  and  we  shot  them  from 
time  to  time,  as  required  for  the  pot.  The  painted  partridge 
was  also  common,  and  shared  the  fate  of  the  hares.  In 
Guzerat  the  shooting  of  peafowl  was  prohibited,  in  deference 
to  the  prejudices  of  the  natives,  who  encourage  them  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  villages.  They  consume  large  quanti- 
ties of  grain — especially  of  wheat,  which  is  seldom  cut,  how- 
ever ripe,  until  a  certain  date  ;  and  in  many  parts  scores  of 


108  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

peafowl  may  be  seen  feeding  in  the  fields  at  all  hours  of  the 
day.  There  were  numbers  of  them  round  Meytal,  and  we 
frequently  took  a  quiet  shot  at  the  younger  birds  among  the 
thorn  bushes.  They  were  excellent  when  roasted,  and  made 
very  good  make-believe  turkey.  The  Mekranees  have  a 
singular  method  of  shooting  them.  When  the  peafowl  are 
feeding  in  the  early  mornings  and  evenings,  these  men  tie  a 
mask,  representing  the  head  of  a  panther,  over  their  faces, 
and  crawling  up  to  some  bush  or  opening  in  the  hedge,  they 
thrust  their  heads  forward  and  attract  the  notice  of  the  fowl. 
The  latter  raise  their  heads  and  advance  in  an  inquisitive  man- 
ner, watching  the  supposed  panther,  which  they  frequently 
approach  to  within  twenty  paces,  and  are  then  easily  shot. 

About  a  couple  of  miles  south-west  of  Meytal  is  an  ex- 
tensive plain.  The  ground  is  so  impregnated  with  salt  as  to 
be  uncultivable  ;  but  during  the  monsoon  a  coarse  grass 
springs  up,  and  the  place  is  resorted  to  by  herdsmen  with 
large  numbers  of  tame  buffaloes.  The  soft  ground  is  cut  up 
by  these  heavy  beasts,  and  when  again  hardened  by  the 
subsequent  action  of  the  sun,  is  most  disagreeable  to  ride 
over.  I  had  a  very  severe  run  over  this  country  one  morning 
after  a  black  buck  whose  hind  leg  I  had  disabled.  I  was  un- 
acquainted with  the  ground,  and  seeing  the  buck  make  off 
over  the  apparently  level  plains,  I  signalled  to  my  groom  to 
bring  up  my  horse,  and,  mounting,  gave  chase.  By  this  time 
the  buck  had  got  a  long  start,  and  having  passed  near  some 
other  deer  which  were  out  in  the  plain,  they  also  took  alarm 
and  moved  off  with  him.  Had  he  been  shot  in  the  body  I 
should  have  had  difficulty  in  selecting  him  from  the  rest,  but 
with  his  damaged  leg  there  could  be  no  mistake,  though  the 
pace  at  which  he  went  kept  him  up  with  the  others.  I  fol- 
lowed at  a  hand  gallop,  but  found  I  had  to  put  my  galloway 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         109 

at  his  best  speed.  Sometimes  we  came  on  places  where  the 
hard  mud  stuck  up  in  jagged  lumps,  and  my  horse  made  some 
desperate  flounders.  I  sat  well  back  in  the  saddle,  keeping  a 
steady  pull  at  his  head,  and  the  pace  alone  kept  him  on  his 
legs.  After  going  about  two  miles  the  buck  began  to  give  in, 
and  broke  away  from  the  rest  of  the  herd ;  and  as  we  were 
then  on  better  ground  I  was  enabled  to  press  him.  I  at 
length  succeeded  in  turning  him,  and  I  then  knew  that  he 
could  not  hold  on  much  longer.  He  now  gave  in  fast,  and, 
holding  my  horse  well  in  hand,  I  took  several  more  turns  out 
of  him,  and  he  soon  after  dropped  exhausted.  The  run  was 
altogether  a  severe  one,  owing  to  the  extreme  roughness  of 
the  ground,  and  the  mud,  baked  in  the  sun,  was  as  hard  as 
brick.  On  these  occasions  I  generally  carried  a  spear,  though 
I  seldom  required  to  use  it,  for  when  a  buck  is  so  far  blown 
as  to  allow  a  horse  to  come  up  with  him,  he  will,  in  most 
cases,  throw  himself  down,  and  may  then  be  laid  hold  of. 

A  friend  sent  me  a  large  red  dog,  which  I  found  very  useful, 
especially  when  following  a  wounded  buck  in  long  grass,  rough 
ground,  or  high  grain.  The  dog  had,  I  think,  belonged  to  some 
of  the  Brinjarra,  or  other  wandering  tribes,  and  was  a  strong 
powerful  beast,  though  by  no  means  fast.  He  was,  however, 
wonderfully  steady,  and  would  never  leave  a  wounded  deer. 
Where  antelope  were  numerous,  I  have  frequently  seen  him 
pursue  one  right  through  a  herd  ;  and  though  the  other  deer, 
apparently  with  the  intention  of  baffling  the  dog,  would  cross 
and  recross  within  a  few  yards  of  his  nose  during  the  run,  he 
would  never  leave  the  wounded  beast,  but  would  follow  on 
till  he  succeeded  in  separating  him  from  his  fellows.  The 
only  difficulty  was  to  get  him  fairly  laid  on  at  the  outset,  and 
for  this  purpose  I  had  a  cord  passed  through  his  collar  to  act 
as  a  slip.  I  kept  one  end  of  the  cord  tied  round  the  wrist, 


110  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

the  other  loose  in  my  hand,  and  in  this  manner  I  would 
mount  my  horse,  and,  keeping  the  dog  on  the  right  hand, 
would  start  after  the  wounded  buck  at  a  hand  gallop.  The 
old  dog  knew  his  work,  and  as  soon  as  I  was  convinced  that 
he  saw  which  deer  he  was  to  follow,  I  slipped  the  cord  and 
away  he  would  go. 

The  Saiseen  antelope,  or  black  buck,  is,  to  use  an  Irishism, 
occasionally  found  pure  white. 

I  have  seen  five  or  six  specimens,  but  they  were  all  in  the 
country  to  the  soutn-west  of  Ahmedabad,  and  may  consequently 
have  been  related  to  each  other.  These  antelope  are  regular 
albinos,  having  white  horns  and  hoofs,  and  red  eyes.  They 
can  be  distinguished  at  great  distances,  owing  to  the  exceed- 
ing purity  of  their  white  coats,  and,  being  seldom  met  with, 
they  are  much  sought  after  by  sportsmen.  My  friend  Bowles 
shot  one  of  these  on  the  north-east  frontier  of  Kattyawar.  He 
was  a  very  fine  buck,  having  horns  twenty-six  inches  in  length. 
I  had  often  seen  one  near  Meytal,  but  he  had  been  frequently 
fired  at — often  when  he  could  only  have  been  bagged  by  a 
fluke — and  he  had  in  consequence  become  very  cunning, 
lying  out  during  the  day  in  some  open  salt  plain,  and  only 
coming  into  the  cultivated  parts  at  nightfall.  Many 
stratagems  were  employed,  but  to  no  purpose.  Sometimes 
we  stalked  him  with  the  shooting-cart,  sometimes  we  tried  to 
drive  him,  occasionally  we  tried  to  approach  him  with  the 
coloured  dress  of  one  of  the  native  women  over  our  shooting 
clothes,  but  the  buck  was  too  much  for  us,  and  we  never 
brought  him  to  bag.  I  fell  in  with  another  of  these  albinos 
at  Kote,  a  village  some  thirty  miles  south  of  Ahmedabad.  It 
was  a  fawn,  in  company  with  one  or  two  skittish  does,  and 
they  were  very  shy.  I  worked  after  it  one  morning  for  many 
hours,  but  was  unable  to  get  within  range. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         Ill 

The  nylghae  were  met  with  to  the  north-west  of  Kote, 
and  we  often  brought  in  a  fat  cow  to  the  larder.  The  flesh, 
though  somewhat  coarse,  is  by  no  means  to  be  despised ;  and 
as  beef  proper  was  not  obtainable,  we  were  glad  of  the  change 
from  the  everlasting  mutton.  We  also  shot  some  very  large 
old  bulls. 

I  was  out  one  morning  shooting  for  the  pot,  when  I 
observed  a  herd  of  nylghae,  and  seeing  some  calves  among 
them,  I  stalked  to  within  a  hundred  yards,  and,  singling  out  a 
good  one,  fired.  The  bullet  struck  low,  breaking  the  fore-leg 
near  the  body.  I  had  no  horse  with  me  at  the  time,  but  my 
big  dog  was  led  by  an  attendant,  to  whom  I  signalled  to  bring 
him  up.  The  herd  had  not  gone  very  far  ;  and,  taking  up  the 
dog  towards  them,  I  advanced  till  they  began  to  move  away, 
when  I  slipped  him.  The  herd  went  off  at  a  sharp  trot,  and 
the  dog  was  gaining  on  them  fast,  and  was  close  to  the 
wounded  calf,  when  the  herd  suddenly  halted,  and  a  number 
of  cows  faced  about.  They  waited  till  the  dog  was  within 
twenty  yards,  when  they  made  a  rush  at  him,  striking  violently 
with  their  fore-feet.  The  dog  had  no  chance  against  them, 
and  received  some  severe  blows,  but  at  last  managed  to  get 
away,  and  returned  to  me  much  discomfited.  The  herd  moved 
off,  taking  the  wounded  calf  with  them,  and  my  visions  of 
veal  vanished  into  thin  air. 

The  nature  of  the  nylghae  varies  much,  according  to  the 
locality  in  which  he  is  found.  In  some  of  the  more  cultivated 
parts  they  are  tame  as  cows,  but  in  the  big  jungles  they 
become  very  wary,  and  are  nearly  as  difficult  of  approach  as 
the  sambur.  An  officer  who  was  in  camp  with  me,  but  who 
himself  was  no  sportsman,  expressed  a  wish  to  join  me  one 
afternoon  ;  so,  ordering  out  the  shooting-cart,  we  mounted  our 
ponies  and  set  off  for  some  Babool  jungle,  which  I  knew  was 


112  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

frequented  by  nylghae.  We  had  not  gone  far  before  a  large 
cow  passed  across  the  track.  We  moved  quietly  on,  and  I  got 
a  fair  shot.  She  went  off,  however,  and  on  my  slipping  the  dog 
he  disappeared  in  the  jungle,  and  did  not  return  for  some  time. 
Blood  was  visible  about  his  muzzle,  but  we  never  got  the  cow. 
Some  days  after,  we  learned  that  the  dog  had  run  her  down 
and  killed  her  close  to  a  village,  and  that  her  carcass  had  been 
eaten  by  the  Dhers  and  other  men  of  low  caste.  Soon  after 
we  came  on  another  herd,  and  this  time  I  got  a  fair  standing 
shot,  dropping  a  large  blue  bull.  The  rest  of  the  herd  went 
off  through  some  high  grass,  and  with  iny  second  barrel  I 
bagged  a  fat  cow.  My  companion  was  greatly  excited.  He 
was  of  a  practical  turn  of  mind,  and  at  once  suggested  that 
meat  so  easily  obtained  might  be  turned  to  good  account,  and 
that  we  ought  without  delay  to  enter  into  a  contract  to  supply 
her  Majesty's  navy  with  salt  beef. 

At  a  village  a  few  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Dholka  we 
fell  in  with  two  specimens  of  the  boa  or  rock  snake.  They 
were  not  very  large,  only  about  seven  feet  long,  but  stout. 
They  had  taken  up  their  quarters  in  an  old  tree,  which  over- 
shadowed the  tents.  The  main  trunk  and  many  of  the 
larger  branches  were  hollow  ;  and  a  groom,  as  he  lay  on  some 
straw  near  his  horses,  observed  one  of  the  serpents  project  his 
head  from  a  hole  about  thirty  feet  from  the  ground.  He 
at  once  called  out,  and  my  friend  Bulkley  fetched  his  rifle 
and  put  a  ball  through  the  head  of  the  snake,  which,  after 
a  few  convulsive  struggles,  threw  itself  from  the  hole  and  fell 
at  our  feet.  The  other  showed  itself  a  day  or  two  after,  and 
was  also  slain. 

In  the  open  plains  about  twelve  miles  to  the  south-west 
of  the  town  of  Dholka  were  large  tracts  covered  with  high 
grass,  and  these  were  frequently  resorted  to  by  panthers. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         113 

We  were  shooting  antelope  near  the  village  of  Surla,  and 
were  astonished  to  find  the  deer  very  shy  and  scared. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  came  on  several  remains  of 
them,  and  the  carcasses  of  two  or  three  which  had  been  but 
recently  killed.  On  inquiring  from  some  cowherds,  we  were 
informed  that  a  panther  had  been  seen,  so  we  fixed  an  early 
day  to  hunt  him  up.  Water  was  scarce  and  bad,  so  we  had 
a  few  bottles  placed  in  the  luncheon  basket,  which  amongst 
other  things  contained  a  bottle  of  whisky  and  several  bottles 
of  beer.  On  arriving  at  the  village  of  Surla  I  had  a  nasty 
feverish  attack,  and  was  too  seedy  to  go  out.  My  two  com- 
panions, however,  went  forth,  with  about  forty  beaters,  and 
hunted  up  a  strip  of  swampy  ground  covered  with  grass  ten 
feet  in  height.  The  panther  was  soon  started,  and  opened 
the  ball  by  charging  back  through  the  line  of  men,  who  made 
way  for  him  with  great  promptitude.  The  guns  then  moved 
back  and  the  line  faced  about,  and  this  time  succeeded  in 
driving  the  panther  across  an  open  space.  Here  he  received 
a  shot  which  disabled  one  of  his  forelegs,  but  he  reached 
a  patch  of  high  grass,  into  which  he  disappeared.  To  follow 
him  now  became  a  service  of  some  danger,  as  the  whole 
party  were  on  foot,  and  the  panther,  being  wounded,  was 
certain  to  fight.  Two  or  three  parties,  of  four  men  each,  were 
placed  in  various  directions,  with  orders  to  stand  together 
and  endeavour  to  mark  the  beast  down  if  he  left  the  grass. 
The  remainder  of  the  beaters  were  then  formed  into  a  wedge, 
and  with  the  two  guns  leading,  and  all  the  rest  howling  and 
on  their  guard,  with  uplifted  clubs,  the  word  was  given  to 
advance.  The  panther  lay  till  his  pursuers  were  within  a 
few  yards,  when  he  charged  out,  and  was  rolled  over  by  a 
well-directed  fire.  He  was  a  very  strong  beast  and  very  fat, 
having  evidently  taken  kindly  to  his  venison.  It  was  uni- 

I 


114  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

versally  allowed  that  it  was  fortunate  that  he  charged  at  the 
strongest  point  of  attack,  as,  had  he  made  his  rush  at  one  of 
the  sides  of  the  living  wedge,  he  would  probably  have  left  his 
mark  on  somebody.  The  hunt  had  taken  place  in  full  view 
of  the  spot  where  I  lay,  and  my  friends  now  came  up,  calling 
loudly  for  cooling  beverages.  I  at  once  proceeded  to  make  a 
beer-mug,  and  having  prepared  the  correct  quantity  of  sugar 
and  spices  in  a  large  jug,  I  poured  in  two  bottles  of  beer  and 
what  I  supposed  to  be  a  bottle  of  water.  My  servant  poured 
out  the  compound  into  quart  pewters,  and  the  sportsmen 
tossed  off  the  grateful  fluid  at  a  draught.  As  he  put  down 
the  measure,  one  of  them  asked  if  I  had  "  laced  "  the  mug  with 
whisky ;  and  on  my  replying  in  the  negative,  he  said  he  was  sure 
the  drink  had  some  taste  of  spirit.  The  other  man  being  of  the 
same  opinion,  I  examined  the  supposed  water  bottle,  and  found 
I  had  in  mistake  given  them  whisky  with  their  beer,  and  be- 
tween them  they  had  swallowed  the  best  part  of  a  quart  bottle. 

Luncheon  was  at  once  prescribed  as  an  antidote,  and  it 
succeeded  so  far  that  no  evil  effects  were  visible  beyond  exces- 
sive hilarity  and  a  slight  tendency  on  the  part  of  my  friends 
to  roll  in  their  saddles  as  we  rode  home.  On  the  way  we 
came  across  three  bustard  feeding  in  the  open  plain.  They 
allowed  us  to  approach  within  a  few  paces,  and  when  they  did 
take  flight,  they  lit  again  within  two  hundred  yards.  We  had, 
however,  no  guns,  all  our  people  being  behind. 

Thirty  miles  south-west  of  Ahmedabad  is  a  large  sheet  of 
water  called  the  Nul,  covering  many  square  miles.  It  is  very 
shallow  throughout,  and  in  most  places  is  only  six  or  eight 
feet  deep.  During  the  cold  season  the  entire  surface  of  it  is 
covered  with  waterfowl  of  every  kind — geese,  ducks  of  many 
sorts,  teal  in  great  variety,  and  coots  in  myriads.  Snipe  are 
found  in  scores  all  along  the  swampy  borders. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  115 

Large  numbers  of  coolen  resort  to  the  shores  in  the  even- 
ings, and  their  wild  cry  is  heard  in  all  directions.  No  regular 
boats  were  procurable ;  but  the  natives  used  rafts  composed 
of  reeds.  These  were  made  somewhat  in  the  form  of  boats, 
the  reeds  being  bound  in  bundles,  in  a  mass,  five  feet  wide, 
and  about  three  in  thickness,  and  fourteen  feet  in  length. 
Towards  the  bow  they  were  brought  together,  so  as  to  form  a 
point,  and  facilitate  progress  through  the  water.  The  rafts 
were  propelled  by  a  man  at  the  stern,  with  a  long  bamboo. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  Nul,  we  at  once  ordered  several  of 
these  rafts  to  be  got  ready.  We  made  comfortable  seats  of 
blankets  in  the  forepart  of  our  primitive  vessels  ;  and  skirt- 
ing along  the  edges  of  the  high  reeds,  we  enjoyed  duck-shoot- 
ing to  our  heart's  content.  Among  the  many  handsome  ducks 
brought  to  bag,  we  got  some  fine  specimens  of  the  pintail, 
which,  when  cooked,  were  excellent,  though  some  of  them 
were  almost  too  fat. 

The  country  round  the  Nul  swarmed  with  antelope,  and 
we  slew  many  fine  bucks.  We  also  made  some  good  bags  of 
coolen,  as  they  fed  in  the  wheat-fields.  They  are  found  in 
great  numbers  throughout  the  whole  of  this  district ;  and 
though  very  shy,  and  difficult  to  approach  on  foot,  they  will 
frequently  allow  a  man  on  horseback,  or  with  a  cart,  to  come 
within  shooting  distance.  At  that  time  I  had  a  steady  shoot- 
ing pony,  from  whose  back  I  made  many  a  raking  shot, 
greatly  to  the  satisfaction  of  our  attendants,  with  whom  they 
were  very  favourite  food. 

We  were  camped  at  one  time — about  the  commencement 
of  the  hot  weather — at  .a  village  a  mile  distant  from  the  edge 
of  the  water.  Our  beds  were  always  placed  outside  the  tents, 
and  we  slept  in  the  open  air.  The  coolen  were  in  the  habit 
of  rising  from  the  shores  of  the  Nul  at  the  early  dawn,  and 


116  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

making  their  way  in  a  long,  wedge-shaped  flight,  towards  the 
cultivated  country.  Our  camp  was  in  their  line,  and  they 
passed  over  our  heads,  uttering  their  usual  wild  cry. 

Thinking  that  something  might  be  done  with  them,  I 
loaded  a  gun  with  BB,  and  placed  it  at  the  head  of  my  bed. 
Next  morning  I  was  awakened  by  the  cries  of  the  coolen 
approaching,  and,  taking  my  gun,  I  sat  up  in  bed  and  waited 
for  them.  Presently  they  appeared — coming  on  in  a  long 
line  over  my  head  ;  when  I  fired  right  and  left,  and  brought 
down  a  brace  of  fine  birds.  I  tried  to  do  the  same  on  subse- 
quent mornings,  but  the  birds  had  become  shy,  and  avoided 
the  line  of  our  camp. 

A  remarkable  shot  which  I  made  at  an  antelope  from  the 
saddle  is  perhaps  worthy  of  record. 

In  company  with  a  friend,  I  was  riding  across  country  to 
a  new  camping  ground,  when  I  saw  a  herd  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
does  and  one  black  buck.  We  had  no  shooting-cart  with  us, 
but  our  rifles  were  carried  by  attendants.  I  rode  up  to  within 
fair  shooting  distance,  and  dismounting,  fired  at  the  buck, 
and  missed  him.  The  herd  made  off,  but  halted  after  going  a 
few  hundred  yards.  I  had  reloaded,  and  again  mounting, 
I  moved  towards  them.  They  were,  however,  scared,  and 
bounded  away.  I  put  my  horse  into  a  canter,  and  followed 
for  a  short  distance,  when  I  halted,  hoping  that  the  deer,  as 
they  often  do,  would  stand  and  give  me  another  chance.  But 
they  kept  on,  and  I  again  cantered  after  them ;  but  as  they 
were  evidently  not  inclined  to  stand,  and  were  taking  me 
away  from  the  direction  in  which  I  wished  to  travel,  I  drew 
up  my  horse,  and  fired  a  random  shot  from  the  saddle  at  the 
retreating  herd.  They  were  all  going  at  fair  speed,  and  at  the 
moment  I  fired  they  were  250  or  300  yards  from  me.  Much 
to  my  astonishment  the  only  buck  which  was  in  the  herd  fell 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         117 

dead  in  his  tracks  ;  and  on  going  up  to  him  I  found  that ^the 
ball  had  struck  him  on  the  back  of  the  head,  just  below  his 
horns.  My  friend,  who  had  been  watching  my  proceedings 
from  a  distance,  came  up,  exclaiming,  "  What  a  fluke ! "  and 
though  I  pointed  out  to  him  that  no  sportsman  worthy  of  the 
name  would  fire  at  anything  but  a  buck,  and  that  the  back  of 
the  head  was  the  correct  place  to  strike  a  retreating  deer,  I 
fear  he  was  not  convinced. 

Another  singular  shot  was  made  by  one  of  our  party.  He 
fired  at  a  buck  antelope,  and  struck  it  on  the  side  of  the  horn, 
about  three  inches  above  the  head.  The  effect  of  the  shot 
was  to  wrench  off  the  horn  from  the  spiral  bone  which  it 
covered.  In  fact  it  was  simply  unscrewed,  and  by  the  force 
of  the  shot  was  sent  spinning  several  feet  into  the  air. 
The  buck  escaped,  but  my  friend  brought  the  horn  into 
camp ;  and  its  appearance  fully  explained  this  remarkable 
shot. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  Nul  were  immense  plains, 
covered  with  high  grass.  These  plains  were  many  miles 
in  extent ;  and  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the 
whole  atmosphere  was  trembling  with  heat  and  mirage, 
we  had  often  no  little  difficulty,  after  shooting,  to  find  our 
way  back  to  camp.  Large  herds  of  antelope  lay,  during  the 
day,  in  the  long  grass,  coming  in  at  nightfall  to  the  cultivated 
lands,  and  returning  to  the  grass  at  sunrise.  Between  the 
grass  and  the  cultivation  was  a  dead  level  plain,  almost  bare 
of  vegetation,  over  which  the  deer  were  wont  to  cross  in  the 
early  morning.  Having  marked  the  most  frequented  lines, 
we  had  pits,  four  feet  deep,  dug  in  this  plain.  Care  was  taken 
to  spread  all  the  excavated  earth  at  a  distance,  so  that  the 
surface  of  the  ground  should  present  no  unusual  appearance. 
Moving  out  from  our  tents  before  daylight,  we  took  up  our 


118  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

position  in  these  pits,  and  waited  for  the  deer.  About  sunrise 
they  would  come  on,  straggling  across  froni  the  fields.  They 
never  seemed  to  suspect  danger  ;  and  as  we  sat  in  our  hiding- 
pits,  with  our  eyes  on  the  level  of  the  plain,  it  seemed  impossible 
that  we  were  not  seen.  So  well,  however,  did  our  poaching 
stratagem  answer,  that  I  have  frequently  slain  deer  from  these 
pits  with  a  charge  of  shot.  By  this  means  we  were  able  to 
select  the  best  bucks  ;  and  got  many  handsome  heads.  I  had 
a  long  shot  one  morning  at  a  gaunt  hyaena,  but  I  believe  I 
missed  him.  I  was,  however,  consoled  soon  after  by  bringing 
down  a  buck  with  twenty-six  inch  horns. 

About  this  time  a  Eurasian  gentleman,  who  was  employed 
in  the  same  department  with  me,  asked  for  the  loan  of  one  of 
my  guns,  having  none  of  his  own,  and  being  anxious  to  prac- 
tise shooting. 

I  sent  him  a  double  smooth-bore,  which  was  soon  after 
returned  with  the  following  note  : — 

"Sir — I  have  the  honour  to  return  you  herewith  your 
gun,  sound  and  in  good  condition,  with  the  exception  of  the 
stock,  which  is  broken  across.  " 

It  is  but  fair  to  him  to  add,  that  he  did  not  ask  for 
another. 


CHAPTEE  VII. 

Antelope-driving  in  Grain-fields — Coolen — Two  Antelope  at  a  shot— The 
"Kore" — Alligators — Unpleasant  Bathing  Companions — Antelope  near 
Dhollera — Four  Bucks  shot — Long  shot  at  a  "Wolf — Buck  eaten  by  Wolves 
— A  Game-preserver  corrected— Spearing  a  Snake — Snake  and  Frog — 
Shooting  in  Dhundooka — White  Buck  shot — Wolf  ditto — More  misguided 
Game-preservers. 

I  WAS  joined  in  camp  by  an  officer  of  a  regiment  stationed  at 
the  Cape,  who  had  come  to  India  on  a  visit  to  his  brother. 
He  was  a  light-hearted  pleasant  man,  ardently  devoted  to  the 
chase  in  all  its  branches ;  sang  a  good  song,  and  smoked  a  goodly 
allowance  of  strong  tobacco.  Thrown  as  I  was,  at  that  time, 
greatly  on  my  own  society,  my  companion  was  doubly  welcome, 
and  my  shikarees  and  horses  were  at  all  times  at  his  disposal. 
On  coming  in  from  his  first  day's  shooting  he  somewhat 
startled  us  by  the  announcement  that  he  had  shot  several 
rams.  We  requested  an  explanation,  and  he  then  told  us 
that  at  the  Cape  the  males  of  all  antelope  were  styled  "  rams," 
and  he  had  imported  the  term  to  India.  Perhaps  he  was  right ; 
antelopes  are  more  goats  than  deer,  and,  I  believe,  horn-shed- 
ding deer  are  unknown  at  the  Cape.  At  the  time  my  friend 
joined  me,  the  crops  of  millet  were  still  standing,  and  the 
Saiseen  antelope  and  chinkara,  or  gazelles,  lay  up,  during  the 
heat  of  the  day,  in  the  high  grain.  We  used  to  beat  these 
fields  with  a  party  of  men  on  horseback,  all  our  grooms  and 
followers  being  mounted  on  every  available  horse  or  pony. 
The  grain  stood  eight  and  ten  feet  high,  and  men  on  foot  could 


120  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

hardly  have  preserved  an  efficient  line.  One  day,  having  been 
detained  at  office  work  till  4  P.M.,  I  went  out  with  my  friend 
to  hunt  up  the  fields  near  the  camp.  Placing  our  line  of 
cavalry  quietly  along  the  side  of  a  square  field,  we  moved 
along  the  flanks  to  the  far  end.  As  I  walked  slowly  ahead, 
I  saw  a  buck  chinkara  turn  the  far-away  corner  of  the  field, 
and  come  running  down  straight  at  me.  I  was  evidently  un- 
observed, and  I  stood  still  till  he  came  within  thirty  yards. 
We  were  armed  with  smooth  bores,  loaded  with  BB  shot, 
and  I  rolled  him  over  dead.  At  that  moment  a  doe  broke  out 
from  the  field,  and  was  going  across  the  open  ground,  when  I 
turned  her  over  with  the  second  barrel.  We  then  beat  two  or 
three  fields  blank,  and  I  mounted  my  shooting  pony,  and  joined 
the  line  of  beaters.  As  we  moved  through  the  high  grain  I 
saw  a  fine  black  buck  lying  down  about  twenty  yards  ahead. 
He  apparently  thought  that  we  should  pass  without  observing 
him,  but,  checking  my  pony,  I  fired,  and  he  rose,  and  dashed 
back  through  the  line.  I  was  afraid  to  shoot  again,  as  my  men 
were  irregular  in  their  movements.  One  of  them  was  some 
200  yards  in  rear,  and  I  heard  him  call  out  that  he  had  seen  a 
wounded  buck.  At  that  moment  I  heard  a  shot  from  my 
friend,  who  had  gone  ahead  to  the  corner  of  the  field,  but  being 
anxious  to  secure  the  buck,  I  gave  the  word  to  the  line  to 
retire,  and  went  back  after  the  wounded  deer.  We  soon  came 
on  him.  He  lay  in  a  natural  position,  but  his  eye  was  vacant, 
and  he  was  evidently  much  exhausted.  Quickly  dismounting, 
I  succeeded  in  laying  hold  of  his  horns,  and  he  was  soon 
gathered  to  his  fathers.  My  friend's  shot  had  killed  a  fine  doe 
antelope,  and  we  returned  home  at  sunset  with  four  deer  ; — a 
fair  afternoon's  work. 

The  next  hot  season  I  was  encamped,  for  some  weeks,  at 
Wasna  Kelea,  about  five  miles  north  of  Dholka.     The  country 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         121 

was  a  good  deal  enclosed,  but  was  well  stocked  with  chinkara, 
and  I  generally  brought  in  a  buck  shot  in  my  evening  walk. 

My  Cape  friend  was,  I  think,  sorry  to  leave  us.  He  was 
a  most  persistent  sportsman,  but  somewhat  jealous  withal,  and 
inclined  to  claim  his  full  share  of  the  bag.  On  one  occasion 
we  had  discharged  our  rifles  at  a  flock  of  coolen,  from  a  distance 
of  several  hundred  yards.  Four  barrels  were  fired,  and  the 
result  was,  "  one  killed."  As  we  had  fired  into  "the  brown" 
of  them,  neither  could  claim  the  bird  ;  my  companion,  how- 
ever, declared  that  it  fell  to  his  shot,  and,  not  caring  to 
alloy  his  happiness,  I  did  not  dispute  his  statement.  We 
parted,  and  I  have  never  seen  him  since ;  but  I  have  a  vivid 
recollection  of  pleasant  days  spent  with  him  in  the  Guzerat 
plains. 

Shooting  two  antelope  at  one  shot  is  by  no  means  uncom- 
mon ;  I  have  done  so  on  several  occasions.  One  morning, 
having  worked  up  towards  a  herd  with  my  shooting-cart,  I 
got  within  range  of  the  best  buck  He  was  standing  broad- 
side on,  and  immediately  beyond  him  were  several  does.  I 
fired,  and  the  buck  started,  but  kept  his  legs  and  went  off  at 
speed.  Instead  of  the  usual  sound  of  a  ball  striking  a  deer,  I 
heard  a  sharp  cracking  noise,  and  as  the  does  scattered  I  saw 
one  of  them  kicking  on  the  ground.  Observing  that  the  buck 
had  gone  off  at  his  best  speed,  and  had  not  bounded  in  the  air 
as  is  their  custom  when  unwounded,  I  kept  my  eye  on  him, 
and  sent  my  attendant  with  the  cart  to  pick  up  the  doe,  which 
had  been  shot  through  the  head.  The  buck  soon  slacked 
his  pace,  and  presently  subsided  into  a  walk.  I  felt  convinced 
he  was  hit  somewhere,  but  as  he  moved  straight  away  I  was 
unable  to  distinguish  any  wound  with  my  spy-glass.  I  there- 
fore quietly  followed.  After  going  about  half-a-mile,  the  buck 
stood  still,  reeled,  and  fell.  I  at  once  ran  up,  but  he  was  dead 


122  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

before  I  reached  him.  The  ball  had  passed  through  the  neck, 
cutting  a  large  vein,  and  travelling  on  had  killed  the  poor  doe. 
The  buck  had  bled  to  death. 

To  the  west  of  Dholka  is  a  long  string  of  pools  called 
the  "  Kore,"  which,  during  the  rainy  season,  are  united  into  a 
sort  of  river.  In  the  hot  weather  they  are  merely  a  succes- 
sion of  sluggish  ponds,  and  in  some  of  these  alligators  con- 
gregate. They  are,  I  believe,  harmless,  but  probably  only 
owing  to  want  of  opportunity.  We  fired  at  several,  and  some 
of  these  we  found  dead  on  the  bank  next  morning. 

They  are  very  numerous  in  the  Watruk  river,  near  its 
junction  with  the  Samburmuttee.  Close  to  the  confluence  the 
former  river  makes  a  large  bend,  almost  enclosing  a  consider- 
able tract  of  cultivated  land.  I  was  shooting  there  on  one 
occasion  with  a  friend,  when  I  wounded  a  black  buck,  break- 
ing his  hind  leg.  My  companion  signalled  to  his  groom,  who 
came  running  up  with  his  horse  and  spear.  Mounting,  he  at 
once  gave  chase.  The  buck  made  straight  for  the  bend  of  the 
river,  and,  knowing  that  the  stream  was  deep,  and  about  fifty 
yards  in  width,  I  concluded  that  he  would  be  overtaken  and 
slain  on  the  bank.  I  followed  on  foot,  but  on  arriving  at  the 
river  I  saw  my  friend  standing  on  the  opposite  side,  drenched 
with  water,  and  minus  his  spear  and  stirrups.  The  wounded 
buck  had  swum  across,  closely  followed  by  the  horseman. 
When  half-way  over,  the  latter  saw  the  heads  of  alligators 
appear  above  water  in  most  unpleasant  proximity. 

Numerous  at  all  times  at  this  spot,  they  were  probably 
rendered  more  lively  than  usual  by  the  blood  of  the  wounded 
buck.  The  situation  must  have  been  disagreeable,  and  espe- 
cially so  when,  on  reaching  the  opposite  side,  my  friend  found 
his  horse  floundering  in  deep  mud,  and  unable  to  mount  the 
bank.  Close  to  the  edge  the  water  was  deep  enough  to  cover 


AD  VENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         123 

the  saddle,  and,  as  the  horse  floundered,  the  stirrup-leathers 
came  away  from  the  hooks,  and  they  fell  to  the  bottom. 

With  great  presence  of  mind  the  rider  drove  his  spear  into 
the  mud  to  mark  the  spot,  and,  throwing  himself  from  his 
horse,  scrambled  ashore.  Eetaining  his  hold  of  the  reins,  he 
managed  to  guide  his  horse  along  the  bank,  and  at  length  got 
him  to  dry  land.  We  vainly  endeavoured  to  recover  the 
stirrups.  The  water  was  too  deep  to  allow  a  man  to  feel  for 
them  with  his  feet  when  wading,  and  too  muddy  for  diving 
operations.  The  knowledge  that  the  water  was  full  of  alli- 
gators did  not  encourage  us  in  our  search. 

I  have  seen  as  many  as  thirty  of  these  reptiles,  some  of 
them  twelve  and  fourteen  feet  in  length,  basking  on  the  mud 
in  the  noonday  sun,  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  spot 
where  my  companion  -crossed.  The  wounded  buck  escaped 
from  us,  but  was  no  doubt  soon  killed  by  jackals  and  wolves. 

Near  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Cambay  very  good  antelope- 
shooting  can  be  obtained,  but  the  country  is  bare  and  desolate 
to  behold,  and  contains  large  areas  of  uncultivable  waste. 
In  few  spots  can  a  tree  be  found  to  shade  the  sportsman's 
tent,  and  this  inhospitable  region  should  only  be  visited  during 
the  cold  months.  I  was  encamped  there  with  a  friend  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  year  1855.  We  had  lately  arrived  from 
Surat,  and  after  a  ride  of  about  sixteen  miles,  from  the  town 
of  Dhollera  to  our  tents,  we  breakfasted,  and  ordering  our 
horses  and  a  shooting-cart  to  be  got  ready,  went  forth  for  the 
first  day  of  the  season.  As  we  were  neither  of  us  new  at  the 
work,  and  preferred  to  combine  sport  with  conversation,  we 
shot  together,  taking  alternate  chances.  At  sunset  we  returned 
to  camp,  having  four  handsome  black  bucks  in  the  cart. 
Antelope  abounded  in  all  directions,  and  before  we  left  the 
neighbourhood  we  had  a  goodly  show  of  heads  and  skins. 


124  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  was  out  one  evening  with  only  a  native  attendant,  when 
I  observed  an  unusual  object  on  the  black  salt  plain,  about 
half-a-mile  ahead.  With  the  glass  I  could  see  something  move, 
so,  directing  the  cart  to  follow,  I  dismounted,  and  taking  my 
rifle  I  advanced.  When  within  300  yards  of  the  spot  I  saw 
a  wolf  rise  from  a  slight  hollow  where  it  had  been  lying,  then 
another,  and  a  third.  They  stood  looking  at  us  for  some  time, 
and  then  went  off  slowly,  watching  us  all  the  time. 

I  endeavoured  to  approach  them  by  directing  the  cart  to 
move  in  an  oblique  direction  ;  but  they  were  very  suspicious, 
and  the  distance  between  us  seemed  to  increase.  One  of  the 
three  was  much  larger  than  his  companions,  and  I  turned  my 
attention  to  him.  He  was  an  immense  beast,  with  shaggy 
tufts  of  hair  about  his  neck,  and  altogether  seemed  a  very 
respectable  patriarch.  My  rifle  was  sighted  to  250  yards, 
and,  despairing  of  getting  a  closer  shot,  I  raised  the  highest 
sight  and  fired.  I  saw  the  dust  fly  as  the  ball  struck  the 
ground  fifty  yards  short  of  the  wolf ;  but  the  line  of  fire  was 
correct,  and  the  ricochet  took  him  almost  through  the  heart. 
He  dashed  forward  at  a  headlong  pace,  with  his  tail  whirling 
in  the  air,  and  his  head  coming  lower  at  every  stride.  After 
going  a  short  distance  he  fell  over — dead.  I  was  much 
pleased  with  this  shot,  for  the  wolf  must,  at  the  time  I 
fired,  have  been  at  least  300  yards  from  me,  and  I  generally 
considered  it  good  shooting  if  I  could  make  sure  of  a  buck 
at  100. 

Shooting  one  morning  near  this  place,  I  wounded  a  buck, 
which  I  followed  on  horseback  for  several  miles  before  I 
secured  him.  I  had  left  my  cart  far  behind,  so,  sticking  my 
spear  into  the  ground,  I  attached  to  it  a  white  handkerchief, 
to  mark  the  spot  in  the  grass.  On  rejoining  the  cart,  I 
directed  my  men  to  bring  in  the  buck,  and  rode  off  into 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         125 

camp.  When  they  arrived  at  the  spot,  they  found  a  couple 
of  wolves  feasting  on  the  deer,  and  in  nowise  deterred  by 
the  flag  which  I  had  set  up.  Wolves  are  very  bold  at  times, 
and  will  attack  and  carry  off  lambs  and  kids  from  the  flocks 
in  broad  daylight. 

At  a  village  named  Gaumf,  a  few  miles  north-west 
of  Dhollera,  we  had  good  antelope-shooting.  They  seemed 
to  do  considerable  damage  in  the  wheat-fields  ;  but  owing 
to  apathy,  or  to  the  religious  prejudices  of  devout  Hindoos, 
they  were  seldom  molested  by  the  natives.  On  the  contrary, 
the  tendencies  of  some  of  the  inhabitants  were  strongly 
in  favour  of  the  most  stringent  game-laws.  One  of  my 
friends  went  out  one  morning  after  deer,  and,  after  some 
trouble,  had  succeeded  in  working  his  shooting-cart  towards 
a  herd,  when  he  saw  a  horseman  wildly  careering  towards 
the  game,  shouting  frantically,  and  waving  a  white  cloth. 
The  herd  was  thoroughly  startled,  and  fled  over  the  plain, 
and  the  sportsman  referred  to,  who  was  a  man  of  a  gentle 
disposition  and  well-regulated  mind,  unwilling  to  suppose 
that  he  would  be  wantonly  annoyed,  went  in  quest  of  more 
game.  A  second  time  he  was  about  to  approach  a  herd  of 
deer  which  he  had  espied  on  the  plain,  when  the  horseman 
again  appeared,  and,  wheeling  his  horse  in  giddy  circles, 
again  scattered  the  deer.  A  third  time  my  friend  went  on 
after  a  fresh  herd,  when  it  was  suggested  to  him  by  some  of 
his  attendants  that  the  lively  horseman  had  been  told  off  for 
the  duty  of  scaring  the  deer  by  the  Bunneah,  or  trading 
community,  by  whom  the  taking  of  animal  life  is  regarded  as 
a  deadly  sin.  He  therefore  watched  his  movements,  having 
previously  directed  his  own  groom,  with  his  trusty  Arab,  to 
keep  near  the  shooting-cart.  A  herd  of  deer  now  came  in 
sight,  and  seeing  that  the  persecutor  was  again  in  attend- 


126  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

ance  and  bent  on  mischief,  the  Highland  blood  of  my  friend 
was  raised,  and  he  resolved  to  stop  the  annoyance. 
Springing  on  his  horse,  he  grasped  his  spear — nine  feet  of 
tough  bamboo — and,  turning  the  blade  behind  him,  he 
cantered  towards  his  tormentor.  The  latter  now  turned  his 
horse,  and,  not  caring  for  a  closer  acquaintance,  urged  his 
steed  towards  the  village  whence  he  had  come.  As  far  as 
he  was  concerned,  the  wrong  man  was  in  the  right  place  ;  and 
before  he  could  reach  a  friendly  shelter,  the  incensed  hunter 
had  overtaken  him,  and  he  received  the  chastisement  he  had 
so  well  earned. 

Eeturning  to  our  camp  one  evening,  we  were  disturbed  by 
an  alarm  among  the  servants,  who  said  they  had  seen  a  large 
snake  in  a  hollow  fig-tree  at  the  edge  of  the  pond,  and  close 
to  the  spot  which  they  had  chosen  for  our  kitchen.  Pre- 
sently one  of  them  called  out  that  he  could  see  the  tail  of  the 
snake,  and,  taking  up  hog-spears,  we  ran  to  the  spot.  The 
tail  of  the  snake  was  plainly  visible,  and  I  succeeded  in 
nailing  him  with  my  spear  to  the  tree.  My  companion  then 
made  another  dig,  and  pinned  him,  six  inches  nearer  the 
head.  The  snake  was  large  and  strong,  and  was  only  drawn 
out  with  much  difficulty ;  but,  by  alternate  spearing,  we 
forced  him  out  and  slew  him.  He  was  of  the  daman  or 
water  species — about  nine  feet  in  length,  and  as  thick  as  a 
man's  arm.  The  natives  say  that  these  snakes  are  not 
venomous,  but  that  they  are  capable  of  inflicting  severe  blows 
with  their  tails.  I  have  never  heard  of  an  authenticated 
case. 

Biding  round  a  small  lake  one  morning,  I  observed  one 
of  these  snakes,  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length,  lying  motionless 
among  the  weeds  near  the  water.  Its  head  seemed  swollen 
to  a  great  size,  and  the  mouth  especially  presented  an  unusual 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  127 

appearance.  I  carried  a  stout  walking-stick,  so,  dismounting, 
I  struck  the  snake  a  sharp  blow.  It  gave  a  frantic  wriggle, 
and  disgorged  from  its  throat  a  bull-frog  of  the  largest  size. 
The  head  of  the  frog  was  protruding  from  the  mouth  of  the 
snake,  which  seemed  to  have  already  swallowed  the  rest  of 
its  victim.  On  being  liberated,  the  frog  disappeared  among 
the  weeds. 

The  country  to  the  north-east  of  Kattyawar,  on  the  border 
of  the  Dundooka  Pergunnah,  affords  great  attraction  to  the 
sportsman  during  the  cold  weather.  In  many  parts  good 
hog-hunting  may  be  got ;  and,  owing  to  the  country  being 
seldom  visited  by  European  sportsmen,  antelope-shooting  can 
be  enjoyed  in  perfection.  I  was  encamped  with  a  friend — 
now,  I  regret  to  say,  no  more — at  the  village  of  Eaanpore. 
Several  hogs  were  known  to  be  in  the  sugar-fields  near  our 
tents,  and  we  found  and  hunted  them  successfully.  Of  them 
more  anon.  A  white  antelope  was  said  to  be  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  we  were  anxious  to  bag  him.  It  was  one  of  those 
fine  bracing  mornings  in  the  Christmas  week,  when  one  can 
almost  forget  what  the  heat  of  Guzerat  really  is,  that  we  set 
forth.  To  increase  our  chance  of  falling  in  with  the  "  albino/' 
we  agreed  to  hunt  separately,  each  making  a  circuit  towards  a 
certain  village  about  eight  miles  off.  We  left  our  camp  about 
9  A.M.,  and,  mounting  our  horses,  set  out,  accompanied  by 
well-appointed  shooting-carts,  and  attendants  on  foot  bearing 
our  rifles.  I  had  not  been  long  out  before  I  observed  a  herd 
of  antelope  feeding  in  a  cotton-field.  Working  the  cart  to- 
wards them,  I  dropped  a  good  buck.  Having  cleaned  and 
placed  him  on  the  cart,  we  moved  on.  Before  long  I  had 
another  shot,  but  the  ball  fell  short,  and  the  buck  escaped. 
Unfortunately,  I  found  that  the  deer,  when  scared,  were  in- 
clined to  travel  in  the  same  direction  as  that  in  which  I 


128  WILD  MEN  AJTO  WILD  BEASTS. 

wished  to  hunt,  and  I  had  to  make  a  wide  circuit  to  avoid 
driving  before  me  the  herd  containing  the  buck  which  I  had 
missed. 

I  now  came  on  a  fresh  herd,  and  acquitted  myself  better, 
another  good  buck  being  placed  in  the  cart  However,  I 
found  I  was  getting  far  away  from  our  point  of  rendezvous, 
and  I  was  obliged  again  to  alter  my  course.  In  a  bit  of  un- 
cultivated waste,  partially  covered  with  thorny  scrub,  I  saw  a 
herd  of  chinkara  feeding.  Among  them  was  a  fine  buck, 
who  stood  on  a  small  rising  ground,  watching  our  advance. 
Leaving  my  horse,  I  went  on  with  the  cart,  and  the  deer 
seemed  to  think  we  were  not  very  dangerous,  for  they  only 
moved  across  our  front,  and  went  on  feeding  among  the 
"  bair "  bushes.  Some  of  the  does  were  very  tame,  but,  as  I 
wanted  the  buck,  I  reserved  my  fire ;  and  my  patience  was 
rewarded,  for  he  soon  gave  me  a  fair  chance,  and  I  dropped 
him  in  his  tracks.  There  were  two  smaller  bucks  with  the 
herd,  but  I  did  not  fire  again.  Unlike  the  Saiseen  antelope, 
the  chinkara  do  not  congregate  in  large  numbers.  More 
than  eight  or  ten  are  seldom  seen  together.  Four  or  five  is 
a  more  usual  number,  and  the  bucks  are  often  found  singly. 
It  was  now  past  midday,  and  knowing  that  my  friend  would 
be  waiting  for  me,  I  headed  straight  for  our  meeting-place. 
But  my  attention  was  soon  called  to  large  numbers  of  ante- 
lope moving  in  a  northerly  direction.  The  plain  seemed 
alive  with  them,  and  I  think  several  thousand  must  have 
been  in  sight  Far  away,  in  a  distant  herd,  I  saw  a  white 
speck,  and  after  examining  it  with  the  glass  I  became  certain 
that  this  was  the  buck  we  were  after. 

The  herds  had  evidently  been  alarmed,  and  I  had  no 
doubt  that  my  friend  had  started  them.  Taking  no  notice  of 
the  others  I  moved  across  the  line  in  which  the  herds  were 


ADVEXTUEES  IX  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         129 

travelling.  Some  were  shy,  others  gave  fair  chances,  but  I 
would  not  shoot.  I  hoped  that  by  moving  through  the 
others,  without  alarming  them,  I  might  be  able  to  pass  in  rear 
of  the  herd  containing  the  white  buck.  As  I  afterwards 
learnt,  my  friend  had  fallen  in  with  him  early  in  the  day, 
and  had  fired  without  success,  and  he  was  not  again  inclined 
to  allow  himself  to  be  approached.  The  country  was  quite 
open  and  level ;  and  even  had  the  ground  been  favourable, 
the  numberless  deer  scattered  in  all  directions  over  the  plain 
destroyed  all  hope  of  stalking  him.  I  dodged  after  him  for 
nearly  a  mile.  I  was  far  from  home,  and  the  sun  was  getting 
low.  The  deer  seemed  to  suspect  that  all  was  not  right,  and 
I  saw  that  my  chance  of  a  standing  shot  was  small  At  that 
moment  some  of  the  other  deer  took  alarm  at  my  horse,  which 
was  led  at  a  considerable  distance  behind  the  cart.  They 
trotted  forward,  and  the  white  buck  moved  across  my  front 
to  join  them.  He  was  about  150  yards  from  me.  Aiming 
somewhat  in  front,  I  fired ;  the  buck  reeled,  and  then  went 
off  at  a  long  trot  My  second  barrel  missed,  but  as  he  did 
not  increase  his  speed,  I  made  sure  I  should  get  him  unless 
daylight  failed  me.  With  the  aid  of  the  glass  I  could  make 
out  that  he  was  shot  through  the  body,  but  well  forward. 
Presently,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  he  halted  and  lay  down 
in  a  cotton-field.  I  waited  for  half-an-hour  to  allow  the  shot 
to  take  effect,  and  then  mounting,  I  rode  straight  at  him. 
He  rose,  and  went  off  at  a  good  pace.  But  I  found  I  could 
keep  up  with  him.  At  length  I  succeeded  in  turning  him. 
and  then  I  knew  he  was  safe.  He  gave  in  soon  after,  and, 
well  pleased  with  the  day's  work,  we  turned  homewards. 
After  going  two  or  three  miles,  I  directed  my  men  to  follow, 
and,  mounting  my  horse,  rode  off  towards  our  camp.  1  had 
not  gone  half-a-mile  when  I  saw  what  seemed  to  me  to  be  a 

K 


130  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

very  large  jackal  sitting  in  a  cotton-field  between  the  rows  of 
plants.  Checking  my  horse  to  a  walk,  I  moved  slowly  along, 
to  see  how  near  he  would  allow  me  to  approach.  As  I  ad- 
vanced the  beast  crouched  down,  keeping  his  eye  fixed  on  me, 
and  I  then  made  him  out  to  be  a  wolf.  Without  halting,  I 
made  a  wide  circuit,  and  moved  back  till  I  met  my  gun- 
bearer.  Making  the  horse  over  to  him,  I  took  the  rifle  and 
advanced  on  foot  towards  the  wolf.  He  had  evidently  been 
watching  my  movements,  and  had  slunk  away  to  some 
distance  from  the  spot  where  I  had  seen  him.  At  length  he 
left  the  shelter,  and  soon  after  stood  out  in  the  open.  Being 
under  the  impression  that  the  wolf  I  had  seen  was  crouching 
close  by,  I  reserved  my  fire,  and  it  was  not  till  I  had  searched 
for  some  time  that  I  saw  I  was  mistaken.  All  this  time  the 
wolf  stood  looking  at  us  from  a  distance  of  200  yards. 
Eaising  my  rifle,  I  fired.  The  light  was  very  uncertain,  and 
I  had  not  much  hope  of  bagging  him ;  but  I  heard  that  the 
ball  told,  and,  mounting  my  horse,  I  went  after  him.  The 
shot  had  taken  him  through  one  of  the  hind  legs,  which 
swung  helplessly  as  he  ran.  I  was  soon  up  with  him,  but 
gaining  some  low  bushes,  he  dodged  me  for  a  few  minutes. 

At  length  I  succeeded  in  spearing  him,  much  to  the 
delight  of  a  shepherd  who  came  by  on  his  way  home,  and 
who  held  my  horse  while  I  finished  off  the  wolf.  Cutting  off 
its  head,  I  threw  it  into  the  cart,  and  reached  home  rather 
tired. 

My  bag  was — two  black  bucks,  a  buck  chinkara,  the 
wolf,  and  the  white  buck.  Bowles  had  bagged  two  black 
bucks,  and  missed  the  white  one  ;  after  which  he  went  off  to 
the  village  at  which  we  had  agreed  to  meet ;  and,  directing  his 
men  to  feed  his  horse  and  bullocks,  sat  down  under  a  tree. 
While  peacefully  smoking,  he  observed  a  number  of  villagers 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         131 

assembling  and  coming  towards  him,  headed  by  some  of  the 
Bunneah  caste.  One  of  these  came  up  and  demanded  by 
what  right  the  great  sin  of  deer-slaying  had  been  committed. 
Seeing  only  one  European,  and  knowing  that  he  himself  had 
all  the  village  at  his  back,  this  man  was  most  impertinent ; 
and,  fearing  violence,  Bowles  made  a  sudden  move,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  his  rifle,  which  fortunately  the  crowd  had 
not  observed.  The  gallant  Bunneah  was  about  to  beat  a 
retreat,  when  my  friend  collared  him,  and,  after  giving  him 
and  his  followers  an  instructive  lesson  on  religious  toleration, 
he  was  allowed  to  go  ;  but  not  before  he  had  made  an  ample 
apology,  and  many  profound  salaams. 


CHAPTEK  VIII. 

Shooting  at  Kaanpore — Panther  shot — Chinkara  :  five  shot — Panther  missed 
— Hog-hunting  at  Kaanpore — Three  successful  Runs— Young  Lion — 
Hunting  at  Santhul — Great  Draught  of  Fishes — Robbed  of  the  Honours — 
Porcupines — Hunting  at  Suheej  with  Bulkley — Two  good  Runs — Exciting 
Hunt  of  a  big  Boar. 

PANTHERS  were  often  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kaan- 
pore, and  several  had  been  shot  by  Bowles  before  I  joined  him 
there.  Most  of  them  had  been  killed  during  the  hot  season, 
when  all  crops  save  small  patches  of  sugar-cane,  left  for  seed, 
were  off  the  ground.  The  canes  being  irrigated  to  keep  them 
green,  the  ground  in  these  fields  was  always  cool  and  damp. 
The  canes  gave  good  shade,  and  the  presence  of  a  panther  was 
generally  indicated  by  his  footprints  in  the  moist  earth.  Left 
to  themselves,  the  cultivators  would  have  cut  the  canes  on  the 
outside  of  their  fields  ;  but,  in  the  hope  of  getting  rid  of  the 
panthers,  they  were  often  willing  to  cut  rides  down  the  middle, 
of  a  sufficient  breadth  to  allow  of  a  snap  shot  at  a  panther 
crossing.  My  friend  on  these  occasions  shot  with  a  double 
smoothbore,  with  two  balls  in  each  barrel ;  and,  taking  up  his 
position  at  the  end  of  the  ride,  he  would  wait  for  the  panthers 
to  be  driven  across  by  a  line  of  beaters  with  drums  and 
tom-toms. 

If  the  panther  was  missed,  as  not  unfrequently  happened, 
the  beaters  retired,  and,  moving  round  outside  the  field,  would 
proceed  to  drive  him  back  Sometimes  a  panther  would  be 
wounded  and  claw  a  beater ;  but,  on  the  whole,  there  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         133 

not  many  accidents,  and  the  cultivators  •  turned  out  readily  to 
join  in  the  hunt. 

One  morning,  when  going  out  after  deer,  etc.,  we  had 
occasion  to  skirt  a  small  garden  outside  a  village,  and  in  some 
fine  sand  we  saw  the  recent  footprints  of  a  large  panther. 
The  hut  of  the  gardener  was  close  by,  and  on  asking  him  if 
he  had  seen  the  beast,  he  replied  that  he  had  heard  him  near 
the  spot  about  an  hour  before  the  daylight  that  morning.  The 
garden  was  bounded  by  a  dry  watercourse ;  and  on  the  far 
side  was  a  patch  of  rough  ground,  covered  with  high  grass 
and  mimosa  trees.  We  had  little  doubt  that  we  should  find 
the  panther  here  ;  and  a  few  villagers  having  been  collected, 
they  formed  a  line  with  some  of  our  own  people,  and  beat  out 
the  cover  towards  the  guns.  The  men  had  passed  over  the 
more  likely  spots,  and  were  advancing  over  some  open  ground, 
when  the  panther — which  had  been  lying  in  the  grass  under 
a  small  bush — rose  and  came  bounding  towards  us.  Bowles 
was  stationed  about  fifty  yards  to  my  left,  and  the  panther 
was  passing  within  a  few  paces,  when  he  rolled  him  over  like 
a  hare  with  a  very  clever  shot.  He  was  a  very  large  male 
panther,  unusually  heavy  and  stout,  with  a  beautifully  marked 
skin.  The  villagers  were  much  pleased  and  astonished,  and 
brought  out  offerings  of  milk  and  sugar. 

At  our  next  camp  chinkara  were  very  numerous  ;  but 
we  were  in  a  lazy  mood,  and  sent  our  men  out  to  look 
for  tracks  of  panthers  in  the  cypress  jungle,  lying  by 
the  bed  of  a  river.  Having  heard  of  nothing  by  noon,  we 
proposed  to  go  out  together  to  shoot  chinkara.  We  were 
to  fire  alternate  shots,  and  only  at  bucks,  and  were  to  return 
to  the  tents  when  we  had  shot  ten.  We  had  been  out 
about  two  hours,  and  had  five  good  bucks  in  the  cart,  when 
we  were  overtaken  by  one  of  our  men,  who  said  they  had 


134  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

found  a  panther's  track  in  the  cypress.  We  therefore  gave 
up  the  chinkara-shooting,  and  went  off  to  the  river-bed, 
which,  at  this  time,  was  a  broad  expanse  of  white  sand,  with- 
out any  water. 

On  either  side  were  strips  of  cypress.  We  were  posted  on 
the  river  side  of  one  of  these,  and  our  men  went  round  to 
drive  the  panther  across.  They  had  beat  close  up  to  us  ;  and 
I  had  seen  nothing  but  a  wild  sow,  surrounded  by  a  litter  of 
squeakers.  I  had  ceased  to  expect  the  panther,  and  was  pick- 
ing off  young  shoots  from  the  bush  before  me,  when  I  saw  the 
beast  walking  towards  me,  and  within  three  paces.  I  was 
quite  startled  ;  my  rifle  lay  in  the  hollow  of  my  left  arm,  and 
as  I  jerked  it  into  my  hand,  the  panther  sprang  to  one  side. 
I  fired  hurriedly  and  missed.  Some  bushes  intervened  ;  and, 
when  I  next  saw  him,  he  was  bounding  across  the  open  bed 
of  the  river.  He  passed  through  the  cover,  and  up  the  oppo- 
site bank,  and  was  lost  in  some  ravines.  Next  morning  we 
hunted  in  vain  for  his  tracks  ;  we  never  saw  him  again. 

I  made  a  note  in  my  memory — "  Never  consider  a  beat  to 
be  over  till  the  last  man  has  cleared  out  of  the  covert." 

It  was  about  Christmas,  in  the  year  1855,  that  we  were 
last  camped  at  Eaanpore.  We  were  greeted  one  morning  on 
waking  by  the  welcome  intelligence  of  a  sounder  of  hog  having 
been  seen  in  the  early  dawn  entering  a  field  of  sugar-canes 
near  our  tents.  We  sent  out  our  own  people  to  verify  the 
statement  of  the  villagers  ;  and,  instead  of  guns  and  rifles, 
boots  and  spurs  were  the  order  of  the  day.  About  breakfast 
time  our  shikarees  returned  and  reported  that  they  had  seen 
the  tracks  of  several  pigs,  and  that  two  were  marked  down  in 
some  sugar-canes.  We  were  somewhat  doubtful  of  our  horses, 
for  that  of  my  friend,  though  a  stout  well-bred  Arab,  had  only 
recently  arrived  from  the  dealer's  stables  at  Bombay,  and  had 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         135 

never  been  tried  after  hogs.     My  own  had  been  out  before,  and 
I  had  killed  pigs  off  him,  but  he  was  a  hot  fiery  beast  when 
excited,  though  at  other  times  gentle  as  a  lamb,  and  would 
follow  me  along  the  road  like  a  dog.     We  mounted  at  about 
10  A.M.,  and  moved  off  to  the  ground,  where  we  found  upwards 
of  thirty  villagers  assembled.     When  we  had  quietly  taken  up 
a  position,  the  beaters  entered  the  cane-field,  and  soon  a  large 
sow  broke  and  went  off  at  speed.     We  did  not  give   her 
much  law,  nor,  indeed,  did  she  require  it,  for  the  ground  was 
in  her  favour,  being  uneven,  and  intersected  with  watercourses. 
Farther  on,  it  was  more  favourable  for  horses,  and  we  now 
gained  on  the  flying  pig.     I  could  not  pay  much  attention  to 
my  friend,  for  my  own  horse  pulled  like  a  mad  beast,  and  I 
had  some  difficulty  in  keeping  him  steady.     At  length  we 
closed  on  the  sow,  but  her  speed  was  wonderful,  and  she  cleared 
thorn-hedges  like  a  greyhound.     Nevertheless  the  pace  was 
evidently  telling  on  her,  and  I  succeeded  in  delivering  my 
spear  behind  her  shoulder.     The  pig  gave  a  sudden  twist,  and 
nearly  wrenched  the  spear  from  my  hand,  but  I  held  on,  and 
got  clear  away.     In  another  moment  my  friend  planted  his 
spear  in  a  vital  spot,  and  she  rolled  over,  dead.     She  was  one 
of  those  long-legged,  lanky  sows,  which  I  have  generally  found 
give  good  runs.    Their  pace  is  much  faster  than  that  of  an  old 
boar,  whose  sense  of  dignity  usually  prevents  him  from  a  too 
hasty  retreat  from  his  foes.     After  breathing  our  horses  we 
returned  to  the  cane-field,  as  our  men  were  certain  that  it  held 
another  pig.    Their  supposition  was  correct,  and  we  soon  knew 
by  the  shouts  of  the  beaters,  who  had  now  re-entered  the  covert, 
that  something  was  on  foot.    Presently  a  fine  stout  boar  jumped 
out,  and  stood  hesitating  by  the  edge  of  the  sugar-canes.     But 
the  line  of  beaters  was  advancing  on  him,  and  having  appa- 
rently made  up  his  mind  about  his  line  of  country,  he  bounded 


136  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

off.  Fearful  lest  lie  should  turn  back  to  the  covert  we  let  him 
get  well  away  before  starting ;  but  our  horses  had  seen  him 
break  away,  and  mine  was  nearly  wild  with  excitement,  and 
danced  as  if  on  hot  plates.  At  last  we  started,  riding  steadily 
together,  with  a  strong  pull  on  the  bridles.  The  boar  took  over  a 
fine  open  country,  with  light  soil,  and  ground  free  from  holes  or 
cracks,  and  we  saw  that  his  fate  was  sealed.  By  the  backward 
glance  of  his  eye  we  knew  he  would  do  mischief  if  he  could, 
and  his  long  white  tushes  warned  us  to  be  careful.  Letting 
out  my  horse  a  little,  I  suddenly  closed  on  him,  but  he  swerved, 
and  was  getting  away,  when  at  that  instant  Bowles  planted 
his  spear  between  his  ribs.  On  receiving  the  thrust,  he  charged 
across  the  front  of  his  pursuer,  and  the  shaft  of  the  spear, 
coming  against  the  horse's  chest,  was  knocked  out  of  his  hand, 
and  remained  sticking  in  the  boar,  who  at  once  pulled  up  and 
stood  at  bay,  determined  to  die  game.  Bowies'  horse  would 
not  go  near  him,  and  it  was  in  vain  that  he  tried  to  recover 
his  spear,  for  the  boar  always  met  him  with  a  vicious  charge. 
Watching  my  opportunity,  I  put  my  horse  into  a  gallop,  and 
delivered  my  spear  as  I  passed.  The  thrust  was  a  deadly  one, 
and  as  the  boar  staggered,  Bowles  cantered  past  and  succeeded 
in  regaining  his  spear,  and  a  few  more  thrusts  laid  low  the 
boar.  This  run  had  taken  us  to  some  distance  from  our  shik- 
arees, who,  with  the  beaters,  now  came  up,  and  the  boar  having 
been  hung  on  a  pole  was  sent  off  to  our  tents.  Meanwhile,  our 
horses  were  attended  by  their  respective  grooms,  the  saddle- 
girths  were  slacked,  and  the  gallant  steeds  had  their  mouths 
washed  out  with  water  while  we  smoked  a  quiet  pipe  under 
the  shade  of  a  mimosa  tree.  The  beaters  held  an  animated 
discussion  over  the  events  of  the  morning,  and  the  merits  of 
the  horses  and  their  riders.  We  should  have  returned  to  the 
camp  after  the  last  run,  but  we  had  been  informed  that  a 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         137 

cotton-field  in  the  vicinity  was  often  frequented  by  pigs,  and 
we  settled  that, we  should  form  a  long  line,  and  beat  it  up 
before  going  home.  Accordingly,  after  a  halt  of  about  an  hour, 
we  were  again  in  the  saddle,  and  on  arriving  at  the  ground  we 
advanced  at  either  end  of  the  line  of  beaters.  After  going 
about  half-a-mile,  we  saw  the  men  in  the  centre  run  back  a 
few  paces,  and  soon  a  young  boar  jumped  up  and  went  away. 
We  followed  him  at  once,  and  I  now,  for  the  first  time,  learned 
from  experience,  what  I  had  often  before  heard,  viz.,  that  a 
pig  going  through  cotton  cannot  get  up  any  pace.  This  is, 
no  doubt,  owing  to  the  stalks  and  pods  of  the  plants  striking 
him  on  his  nose  and  eyes. 

We  closed  on  him  hand  over  hand,  and  I  soon  secured  the 
tushes,  which  were  of  fair  size,  though  small  in  comparison  of 
those  of  the  big  boar  we  had  slain  in  the  morning. 

He  turned  at  once,  and  charged  at  Bowles,  whose  young 
horse  behaved  very  well,  and  enabled  his  rider  to  stop  him 
cleverly.  By  this  time  I  was  on  him  again,  and  he  was  soon 
following  his  kinsfolk  to  our  camp.  Altogether  we  were  at 
Eaanpore  about  ten  days,  and  we  made  a  fine  mixed  bag. 
Bowles  intended  to  visit  the  Geer  of  Kattyawar,  during  the 
following  hot  season,  for  the  purpose  of  lion-hunting,  a  pursuit 
which  he  had  followed  the  previous  year  with  some  success. 
In  addition  to  bagging  several  full-grown  lions,  he  had  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  a  fine  cub,  which  he  brought  to  Surat, 
where  it  wandered  at  will  about  our  house  during  the  rainy 
season.  It  was  then  about  as  large  as  a  Clumber  spaniel,  and 
very  good-natured,  except  at  feeding  time.  Having  got  out  of 
a  verandah  on  the  first  floor,  it  passed  down  the  weather- 
boards, and,  jumping  to  the  ground  from  a  height  of  about 
eight  feet,  strained  its  back  and  fore-legs,  and  soon  after  died. 
I  have  had  bears,  panthers,  and  tigers,  at  various  times,  as 


138  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

household  pets,  but  none  of  them  were  so  good-natured  and 
docile  as  this  young  lion.  We  were  sorry  to  break  up  our 
shooting- camp  when  we  had  to  return  to  our  respective  dis- 
tricts ;  and  poor  Bowles  never  lived  to  make  his  second  excur- 
sion to  the  Geer,  for  within  six  months  of  our  parting  at 
Eaanpore  he  was  laid  in  the  graveyard  at  Ahmedabad. 

One  of  our  favourite  hunting  grounds  was  at  Santhul, 
about  four  miles  east  of  Dholka.  Here  the  Samburmuttee 
river  flows  over  a  wide  sandy  bed,  having,  in  many  parts, 
large  patches  of  cypress,  in  the  cool  shade  of  which  the  wild 
pigs  delight  to  lie  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  My  men  were 
always  on  the  look-out,  and  when  I  learned  from  them  that  there 
were  fair  hunting  prospects,  I  sent  intimation  to  my  friends 
in  the  cantonment,  and  forthwith  a  meet  of  the  Hunt  was 
arranged,  and  was  attended  by  all  lovers  of  the  noble  sport 
who  could  get  leave  of  absence. 

At  one  of  these  meets  I  wandered  out  one  morning  near 
the  tents,  and  came  on  the  bed  of  an  extensive  pond,  which, 
with  the  exception  of  three  or  four  deep  holes  about  eight 
yards  in  width,  was  dried  up.  As  I  stood  near  one  of  these 
holes  I  observed  a  large  fish  rise  to  the  surface,  and  I  at  once 
concluded  that  all  the  fish  of  the  pond  were  probably  collected 
in  these  holes.  I  accordingly  returned  in  the  evening  with 
one  or  two  of  the  party,  taking  with  me  the  casting-net  which 
I  always  carried  in  my  shooting-cart.  This  I  threw  into  the 
largest  hole,  and  drew  it  out  filled  with  fish  of  several  kinds, 
and  of  all  sizes.  Subsequent  casts  were  equally  successful, 
and  we  returned  to  the  tents  with  a  good  supply. 

I  was  hunting  at  Santhul  with  my  friend  Major  Johnson, 
and  in  some  sugar-canes  near  the  river  we  started  a  stout  boar. 
Johnson  was  well  mounted  on  a  hunter  of  good  repute,  while 
I  had  only  my  galloway,  a  strong  beast  about  13.3  in  height. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         139 

He  was,  however,  a  very  fast  pony,  and  entered  fully  into  the 
spirit  of  the  chase,  and  would  double  and  turn  after  a  boar 
almost  of  his  own  accord.  The  pig  made  across  an  enclosed 
country,  and  gave  us  some  sharp  scrambles  over  and  through 
the  cactus  hedges.  At  length  he  turned  and  made  for  the 
river,  the  bank  of  which  at  this  place  was  rather  abrupt.  We 
were  close  on  him  when  he  dashed  into  the  broad  shallow 
stream,  but  the  uneven  sand  was  scooped  out  in  parts  by  the 
action  of  the  water,  and  we  had  two  or  three  desperate  floun- 
ders before  reaching  the  other  side.  Here  we  came  on  a  con- 
siderable breadth  of  cypress,  which  would  be  under  water  in 
the  rainy  season,  and  beyond  this,  at  a  distance  of  some  300 
yards,  was  the  other  bank  of  the  river,  a  steep  slope  of  30  or 
40  feet.  The  cypress  covert  was  all  ridge  and  furrow,  caused 
by  floods,  and  was  very  awkward  to  cross  at  a  rapid  pace. 
The  boar  held  on  as  though  he  would  go  up  the  bank,  and, 
thinking  to  spear  him  on  the  ascent,  Johnson  urged  his  horse 
to  the  front,  but,  with  a  sudden  swerve,  the  pig  turned  up  the 
river,  while  the  horse  shot  up  the  bank  and  was  completely 
thrown  out.  My  galloway  behaved  admirably,  turning  sharp 
with  the  boar,  and,  as  we  were  now  running  up  the  sandy 
furrows,  we  were  enabled  to  put  no  more  steam.  The  boar, 
however,  kept  his  lead,  and  Johnson,  who  was  galloping  along 
the  top  of  the  bank,  and  unable  to  find  a  place  to  descend, 
could  not  render  any  assistance.  At  length  I  began  to  close 
on  the  pig,  and  had  made  up  my  mind  that  I  was  to  get  the 
tushes,  when,  to  my  horror,  my  friend,  with  his  horse  quite 
fresh,  having  found  a  path  down  the  bank,  came  by  me  hand 
over  hand,  and  shooting  past  took  the  first  spear.  I  gave  the 
second,  and  the  boar  fell  dead.  Johnson  was  greatly  excited, 
and  his  conscience  smote  him  for  depriving  me  of  the  spear 
for  which  I  had  worked  so  hard.  "  By  Jove,"  said  he,  "  you 


140  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

rode  that  pig  well !  I  had  no  right  to  take  that  spear !  It 
was  an  awful  shame  !"  With  that  he  commenced  shaking  me 
violently  by  the  hand,  and  pouring  forth  expressions  of  admira- 
tion and  respect.  It  would  have  been  amusing  for  a  looker- 
on  to  see  two  Britons  standing  by  their  reeking  horses,  in 
the  bed  of  the  Indian  river,  shaking  hands  over  the  gory 
carcass  of  the  dead  boar. 

We  were  returning  to  our  camp  one  evening  after  a 
day's  hunting,  and  I  was  riding  alone  in  advance  of  the  rest 
of  the  party  when  I  heard  shouts  behind  me,  and  presently 
saw  the  caps  of  some  of  the  riders  bobbing  along  on  the  far 
side  of  a  high  hedge.  I  stood  wondering  what  to  expect,  when 
a  large  porcupine  came  bolting  through  the  hedge  and  ran 
across  a  field.  I  gathered  up  my  reins  and  rode  at  him,  but 
his  quills  were  rattling,  and  my  horse  did  not  seem  to  know 
what  to  make  of  him.  At  last  I  managed  to  spear  him  ;  but 
before  I  could  turn  my  horse  again,  he  disappeared  into  his 
burrow.  The  other  sportsmen  now  came  up,  and  with  them 
a  number  of  beaters. 

About  sixty  yards  off  was  a  stream  of  water,  running  from 
a  well  to  a  neighbouring  sugar-cane  field.  All  hands  were  at 
once  set  to  divert  the  runnel  to  the  porcupine's  hole,  which 
we  succeeded  in  flooding.  The  wounded  beast,  together  with 
two  or  three  others  and  a  civet  cat,  bolted  out  and  was  slain. 
We  had  some  of  the  porcupine's  flesh  cooked  for  dinner,  much 
to  the  disgust  of  our  servants,  who  looked  on  them  as  unclean 
beasts.  The  flesh  seemed  white  and  good,  and  I  believe  if  it 
had  had  fair  play  in  the  kitchen,  we  should  have  liked  it  well 
enough  ;  as  it  was,  I  did  not  care  much  for  it. 

A  favourite  meet  was  at  Suheej,  a  few  miles  farther  down 
the  river.  I  was  camped  at  this  place  with  my  friend  Bulkley 
in  the  month  of  May.  The  heat  was  intense  ;  but  this  was  in 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         141 

some  respects  in  our  favour,  as  the  pigs  were  attracted  to  the 
cypress  in  the  bed  of  the  river.     We  left  our  tents  about 
9  A.M.,  our  shikarees  having  been  out  before  daybreak.     They 
met  us  on  the  ground,  and  reported  that  several  hogs  had  been 
seen  in  the  early  morning  entering  the  covert.    Soon  after  the 
beaters  began  to  move,  a  well-grown  boar  left  the  jungle,  and 
ascending  the  bank,  went  off  slowly  over  the  open  country. 
We  gave  him  a  good  start,  and  then  cantered  after  him.     By 
the  1;ime  we  topped  the  bank  he  was  well  away,  and  we  now 
increased  the  pace  and  closed  up  to  him.     On  finding  himself 
pursued,  he  halted,  looked  round  for  a  moment,  and  then  went 
off  at  score.     We  now  went  at  him  in  earnest,  and  both  being 
well  and  evenly  mounted,  we  had  a  most  exciting  chase.    The 
pace  was  good  throughout,  and  the  boar  ran  true  for  some  dis- 
tant sanctuary,  which  he  was  doomed  never  to  reach.     I  had 
got  the  best  place,  being  on  his  left  quarter ;  and  as  I  made 
a  rush  at  him,  I  made  sure  of  the  spear,  but  with  a  sudden 
swerve  he  shot  across  my  front,  nearly  upsetting  my  horse, 
and  I  missed  him.     He  was  less  fortunate  with  Bulkley,  who 
stopped  him  with  a  thrust  behind  the  shoulder,  and  as  the 
blood  streamed  from  his  mouth  we  saw  that  his  race  was  run. 
He  struggled  gamely  on  for  a  short  distance,  but  my  second 
attempt  was  more  successful,  and  poor  piggy  was  laid  low. 
We  were  now  joined  by  our  grooms  and  a  few  beaters,  the 
main  body  having  been  quietly  drawn  out  of  the  covert  by  the 
shikarees  as  soon  as  the  pig  broke  away.    The  boar  was  slung 
on  a  pole  and  carried  back  to  the  river  ;  and  having  breathed 
our  horses  we  remounted  and  returned  to  our  old  places.     On 
reaching  the  high  bank  which  bounded  the  cypress  covert,  we 
observed  a  monster  boar  crossing  the  broad  shallow  stream, 
and  making  for  a  patch  of  cypress  of  some  extent  on  the  other 
side.     In  a  position  commanding  a  full  view  of  this  covert, 


142  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

we  had  placed  a  native  in  a  tree  as  a  marker.  As  we  could 
see  him  plainly,  and  he  made  no  indication  of  the  boar  having 
gone  on,  we  concluded  he  had  lain  up  in  the  covert.  We 
therefore  arranged  to  put  the  beaters  again  into  the  place 
which  we  had  first  driven,  and  before  long,  another  pig — a  sow 
this  time — came  out,  and  went  off,  taking  much  the  same  line 
of  country  as  the  boar  we  had  killed.  She  gave  a  very  good 
and  fast  run  over  some  very  rough  ground,  but  our  horses 
carried  us  well  and  never  made  a  false  step.  As  we  reached 
some  good  riding  ground  we  pressed  in  on  her,  and  I  took  the 
first  spear  ;  on  which  she  stood  and  seemed  determined  to  act 
on  the  offensive.  Bulkley  advanced  at  her  at  a  walk — a 
rather  dangerous  proceeding,  as  in  the  event  of  the  spear 
missing,  both  horse  and  rider  are  at  the  mercy  of  the  pig, 
which  can  make  its  rush  and  do  damage  before  its  foes  can 
get  away. 

Bulkley,  however,  stopped  her,  but  so  determined  was 
the  charge  that  she  managed  to  run  in  on  the  spear  and  bit 
him  sharply  in  the  foot.  Fortunately  he  was  protected  by  a 
stout  deer-skin  boot,  and  before  farther  mischief  could  be 
done  I  had  turned  and  given  her  the  coup  de  grace.  Again 
returning  to  the  river,  we  were  met  by  grooms  leading  a 
couple  of  galloways,  which  we  mounted,  sending  off  our 
horses  to  the  tents.  "We  partook  of  a  slight  refreshment,  and 
as  we  smoked  our  pipes  we  formed  the  plan  of  attack  on  the 
big  boar  which  we  had  seen  crossing  the  river. 

The  beaters  being  sent  round,  we  took  up  our  positions, 
and  stood  anxiously  waiting  the  appearance  of  the  monster. 
Tom-toms  and  drums  were  loudly  beaten,  horns  were  blown, 
and  guns  fired,  but  still  no  signs  of  the  game  ;  and  it  was  only 
when  the  last  man  left  the  covert  that  I  began  to  suspect  the 
true  state  of  affairs.  Leaving  the  beaters,  our  shikarees  pro- 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  143 

ceeded  to  examine  the  ground  round  the  cypress,  and  on 
coming  to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  tree  on  which  our  look- 
out man  had  been  posted,  they  came  on  the  tracks  of  the  boar, 
leading  up  the  bank.  The  villain  had  either  slept  on  his  post, 
or  had  been  amusing  himself  by  watching  our  runs  in  the 
morning,  and  had  allowed  the  boar  to  pass  up  the  bank  un- 
observed. The  footprints  were  not  to  be  mistaken,  for  the 
boar  was  of  the  largest  size. 

Leaving  the  river,  he  had  made  a  detour  of  about  two 
miles  in  the  open  country,  which,  though  cultivated,  was  at 
this  season  quite  bare  of  crops.  Our  men  were  equal  to  the 
occasion,  and  taking  up  the  track  they  moved  quickly  along, 
scoring  the  ground  at  every  few  yards  with  a  short  stick 
across  the  prints  of  the  boar's  hoofs.  We  now  found  that  he 
was  crossing  a  wide  bend  in  the  river,  and  that  the  tracks 
would  again  fall  into  the  bed  of  the  stream.  The  trackers 
moved  fast  and  sure,  and  we  followed  close  in  their  wake 
with  the  crowd  of  beaters.  At  length  we  came  to  where  a 
smaller  stream  joined  the  river,  and  on  the  ground  between 
the  two  was  a  crop  of  irrigated  maize,  about  ten  feet  in  height, 
and  looking  very  cool  and  green.  The  smaller  stream  was 
about  fifteen  yards  in  width,  slow  and  sluggish,  having  about 
a  foot  of  water,  and  an  equal  amount  of  black  mud  below  it. 
We  had  crossed  and  sent  the  beaters  to  the  end  next  the  junction 
of  the  streams,  when  we  heard  much  yelling  and  shouting,  and 
next  moment  the  boar  came  out  at  speed,  and  dashed  down  the 
slope  into  the  stream  we  had  just  crossed.  Bulkley  was  only 
a  few  yards  from  him,  and  driving  in  his  spurs  he  rushed 
down  the  bank,  regardless  or  forgetful  of  the  muddy  bottom. 
His  horse  seemed  to  turn  heels  over  head,  and  as  I  checked 
mine  and  floundered  slowly  across,  he  was  picking  himself 
out  of  the  black  mud  and  shaking  his  steed  to  his  legs  again. 


144  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

He  had  lost  his  hunting-cap,  and  his  spear  was  buried  in  the 
grimy  slush.  I  reached  the  bank  in  safety,  and  gathering  up 
my  galloway  I  went  on  after  the  boar.  From  his  great  size 
and  weight  I  was  sure  he  would  make  a  good  fight,  and  I  saw 
I  had  work  cut  out  for  me,  so  I  determined  not  to  irritate 
him  with  a  minor  poke,  but,  if  possible,  to  disable  or  check 
him  till  such  time  as  my  friend  should  emerge  from  the  mud 
and  come  to  my  assistance.  As  the  boar  went  along  at  an 
easy  canter,  I  saw  I  should  have  no  difficulty  in  overhauling 
him.  We  were  going  up  the  side  of  a  field,  having  a  high 
mud-bank  on  our  right ;  and  watching  my  opportunity  I 
lowered  my  spear  and  pressed  my  horse  with  the  spur.  In 
an  instant  I  was  alongside  of  the  boar,  and  had  my  spear 
within  a  few  inches  of  his  shoulder,  when,  with  a  savage 
grunt,  he  made  a  sidelong  charge  at  my  horse.  The  spear 
took  him  in  the  neck  and  checked  him,  but  with  a  sudden 
wrench  he  broke  the  bamboo  shaft,  leaving  the  head  im- 
bedded in  his  muscles.  Turning  my  horse  sharp  to  the  left, 
I  got  clear  away,  but  having  only  the  headless  spear-shaft  in 
my  hand,  my  offensive  powers  were  at  an  end,  and  I  saw  that 
my  only  hope  of  getting  the  boar  lay  in  being  able  to  keep 
him  in  view  till  my  friend  should  rejoin  me.  In  this  way  we 
held  on  over  many  fields.  At  times  I  pursued  and  tried  to 
turn  the  boar,  at  others  he  pursued  me,  and  then  I  was  forced 
to  "  advance  backwards."  Still  no  signs  of  my  friend,  and  I 
began  to  fear  that  either  he  or  his  horse  had  been  seriously 
damaged.  The  boar  had  nearly  reached  the  spot  from  whence 
we  had  first  started  him  in  the  morning,  and  as  he  went 
down  the  steep  bank  into  the  cypress  cover  I  pulled  up  in 
despair.  At  that  moment  I  saw  Bulkley  coming  along  at  a 
hand-gallop,  and  with  a  frantic  yell  I  again  set  off  after  the 
boar.  Aided  by  Bulkley,  I  succeeded  in  turning  him  towards 


I 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         145 

the  water,  into  which  he  hurled  himself  and  lay  still,  appa- 
rently dead  beat.  Springing  from  his  horse,  Bulkley  lowered 
his  spear  and  ran  in  at  him,  but  the  boar  rose  and  charged. 
He  was  stopped  by  a  thrust  in  the  neck,  but  his  great  weight 
broke  the  bamboo,  and  though  Bulkley  managed  to  get  away 
unscathed,  we  had  no  spears,  and  were  now  powerless  for  all 
purposes  of  attack.  Unwilling  to  leave  the  wounded  beast, 
and  hoping  that  some  of  our  men  with  spare  spears  would 
soon  come  up,  we  followed  him  slowly  down  the  river,  and 
seeing  some  cultivators  irrigating  their  fields  near  the  banks, 
Bulkley  rode  off  to  them  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some 
offensive  weapon. 

Presently  he  came  after  me  armed  with  a  short  crooked 
sword,  but  by  this  time  the  boar  was  going  down  a  part  of 
the  river  where  he  had  an  abrupt  bank  six  feet  in  height  on 
his  immediate  left.  Bulkley  vainly  tried  to  force  him  out,  as 
he  found  it  impossible  to  reach  him  with  the  short  sword.  At 
length  he  made  a  cut,  but  the  boar  charging  at  the  same 
moment  ripped  his  horse  in  the  foreleg,  and  finding  that  he 
could  not  again  get  him  to  go  near  the  pig,  he  handed  me  the 
sword  and  I  took  up  the  running. 

We  here  came  to  a  tributary  stream,  joining  the  river  at 
right  angles.  Into  this  we  plunged,  and  as  the  boar  swam 
almost  on  a  level  with  my  saddle,  I  rose  in  the  stirrups  and 
made  a  cut  at  him  with  all  the  force  I  could  muster.  Had 
the  weapon  served  me  truly,  I  should  have  laid  the  boar  in 
two  halves,  but  the  blade  of  the  sword,  being  merely  fastened 
into  the  hilt  with  lac,  fell  out,  and  the  pig  turned  on  me.  I 
had  just  time  to  fend  him  off  with  my  hand,  receiving  as  I  did 
so  a  slight  cut  over  the  thumb  from  his  tusk. 

Wheeling  my  horse  round,  I  got  away  from  him,  when  he 
crossed  the  stream,  and,  turning  up  the  other  bank,  left  the 

L 


146  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

main  river.  By  this  time  lie  was  nearly  exhausted,  and  our 
shikaree  appeared  on  the  scene,  having  followed  the  run  on 
foot.  Another  sword  was  procured  from  some  cultivators.  The 
shikaree  carried  his  own,  and  one  of  his  men  had  an  iron-bound 
club.  Leaving  our  panting  steeds,  we  made  a  simultaneous 
rush  on  the  boar,  as  he  stood  at  bay  in  the  water.  He  made 
a  last  charge,  but  the  swords  cut  fairly  this  time,  and  the  huge 
beast  succumbed. 

I  have  been  in  at  the  death  of  many  boars,  but  I  never 
saw  a  run  so  full  of  excitement  as  that  which  I  have  now 
endeavoured  to  describe.  t 

We  returned  to  our  tents  well  satisfied  with  the  day's 
work,  and  the  leading  incidents  of  the  last  run  were  committed 
to  paper  in  a  series  of  four  spirited  sketches  by  the  ever-ready 
pen  of  my  light-hearted  friend.  I  have  them  by  me  now,  but 
the  hand  of  the  limner  has  been  chilled  in  death,  never  again 
to  grasp  the  spear  or  guide  his  gallant  steed  in  the  soul-stirring 
chase  of  the  grim  gray  boar. 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

Horses  ripped  by  Boars — Run  at  Rheenjah — Ducks  in  Samburmuttee — Tiger- 
shooting  Expedition  near  Beerpoor — Large  Tiger  seen — Hunt  in  the  "Wat- 
ruck  River  at  Muggoree — Big  Tiger  wounded — Tigress  shot — Rash  Hunt 
for  the  Big  Tiger — Second  Day  at  Muggoree — Two  Cubs  shot — Man  killed 
by  a  Tigress — Third  Day  at  Muggoree — Bulkley  badly  mauled — March  to 
Baroda — Langton  killed  by  a  Tiger— March  to  Surat — Tiger  Wounds. 

"  Ready  he  stood  right  valiantly, 
But  ere  he  had  time  to  strike, 
The  tusk  of  the  Boar,  more  prompt  than  he, 
Deep  through  the  flesh,  above  the  knee, 
Ripped  with  a  stroke  oblique." 

MAGINN'S  '  HOMERIC  BALLADS.' 

IN  hunting  the  wild  hog,  injuries  from  their  tushes  are  some- 
times received  both  by  horses  and  beaters  ;  but  it  is  seldom 
that  the  riders  suffer.  The  wound  made  by  the  tusk  of  a  pig 
on  the  human  leg  is,  as  I  have  already  said,  generally  of  the 
form  of  the  letter  L — like  a  tear  in  woollen  cloth. 

It  is  wonderful  that  injuries  to  beaters  are  not  more  fre- 
quent than  they  are  ;  for  a  boar  will  constantly  break  back, 
and  when  the  line  is  advancing,  through  cypress  or  high  sugar- 
cane, he  often  cannot  be  seen  till  he  is  almost  upon  the  men. 
We  seldom,  however,  had  any  difficulty  in  assembling  beaters, 
and  though  at  times  they  naturally  expressed  an  objection  to 
move  in  on  a  wounded  pig,  yet,  on  the  whole,  they  showed 
great  pluck,  and  a  proper  enjoyment  of  the  sport. 

The  injury  done  was  not  always  in  proportion  to  the  size 
of  the  pig,  and  I  have  seen  a  horse  badly  cut  by  a  small  sow 
with  teeth  only  half-an-inch  in  length.  We  had  been  hunting 


148  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

her  in  the  cypress  covert,  when  she  broke  back,  and,  in  the 
centre  of  a  small  clear  space  of  ground,  was  met  by  one  of 
our  party  who  was  cantering  up  to  join  us.  He  rode  fair  at 
the  pig,  which  never  swerved  an  inch,  but  charged  straight  at 
the  horse.  The  steed  was  fresh,  and  tried  to  jump  over  her  ; 
but  the  sow,  without  slacking  her  pace,  seemed  to  throw  up 
her  head,  and  just  touch  the  horse  on  the  hind  leg  as  she 
passed  on.  The  jump  given  by  the  horse  caused  the  rider  to 
miss  his  spear,  and,  as  he  turned  to  follow  the  pig,  we  saw  a 
clean  cut,  five  inches  in  length,  down  the  shank  of  the  hind 
leg.  The  horse  was  of  course  laid  up  for  some  time. 

On  another  occasion  I  pursued  a  boar  which  had  been  driven 
from  a  cane-field.  He  crossed  the  bed  of  the  Samburmuttee 
river  soon  after  I  had  slightly  pricked  him,  and  we  were 
thoroughly  splashed  by  the  time  we  reached  the  other  side. 
The  boar  was  a  heavy  one,  and  lazy,  and  I  was  soon  along- 
side of  him.  On  being  again  speared,  he  stood  at  bay.  Turn- 
ing my  horse,  I  walked  towards  him,  and,  as  I  advanced,  he 
charged.  He  was,  fortunately,  very  groggy,  and,  missing  his 
stroke,  he  stood  under  my  horse's  neck.  In  vain  I  tried  to 
shorten  my  spear,  which  was  dripping  with  water,  and  slipped 
through  my  hand ;  and,  after  several  tosses  of  his  head,  the 
boar  struck  his  tusk  into  my  horse's  chest.  At  that  moment 
he  was  killed  by  a  thrust  from  another  of  our  party.  Dis- 
mounting, I  found  my  horse  streaming  with  blood  from  a  deep 
but  narrow  wound,  which  we  only  staunched  by  pinning  the 
sides  together,  and  binding  them  up  with  thread. 

There  was  a  good  covert  for  hog  at  Kheenjah,  about  eight 
miles  south  of  Dholka.  I  was  encamped  there  in  the  hot 
season  of  1855  with  Bulkley,  and  walking  out  one  morning 
near  the  tents,  we  came  on  the  fresh  tracks  of  a  goodly  boar 
leading  into  a  sugar-cane  field.  A  few  beaters  were  collected, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         149 

and  we  went  out  in  the  afternoon.  Bulkley  was  mounted  on 
a  large  iron-gray  Arab,  which  had  been  sent  out  to  his  camp 
by  a  young  gentleman  who,  I  believe,  was  anticipating  a  visit 
from  bum-bailiffs.  I  rode  my  galloway,  having  no  fear  that 
so  heavy  a  boar  would  be  likely  to  beat  us  by  speed.  He  was 
soon  started,  and  at  once  made  for  some  extensive  cypress 
covert  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  We  therefore  gave  him  short 
law,  but  unfortunately  turned  him  into  another  cane-field. 
Across  his  path  lay  a  dry  thorn  hedge,  over  four  feet  in  height, 
which  he  cleared  at  a  bound,  like  a  deer.  We  had  some  diffi- 
culty in  again  dislodging  him,  but  this  time  he  took  a  more 
favourable  line,  and,  after  letting  him  get  well  away,  we  went 
after  him.  The  iron-gray  got  the  better  of  his  rider,  and 
bolted  between  two  thorn  hedges.  A  bushy  tree  overhung 
the  path,  and,  as  he  dashed  under  it,  Bulkley  had  a  narrow 
escape,  for  his  hunting-cap  was  knocked  off,  his  spear  sent 
spinning  out  of  his  hand,  and  he  sustained  a  severe  contusion 
on  the  shoulder. 

My  galloway  behaved  admirably,  and,  putting  his  ears 
back,  followed  the  boar  closely  ;  but  on  passing  through 
some  thin  jungle  he  breasted  a  mimosa  sapling,  covered 
with  long  sharp  thorns,  and,  as  he  brushed  over  it,  he 
received  a  smart  blow  on  the  head  from  the  stem.  The 
boar  then  crossed  some  open  ground,  and  I  was  close  on  him, 
when  he  seemed  to  think  he  had  taken  the  wrong  line  of 
country,  and  pulled  up  sharp — sliding  along  the  ground  on  his 
hind-quarters — then,  turning  suddenly,  he  retraced  his  steps 
at  full  speed. 

My  horse  checked  himself  in  an  instant ;  but  so  sud- 
den was  the  movement  that  I  was  thrown  off  my  balance, 
and  the  sharp  strain  snapped  my  stirrup-leather,  and  nearly 
brought  me  to  the  ground.  However,  I  managed  to  keep 


150  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

my  seat,  and  wheeling  round  I  soon  closed  again  with  the 
boar.  In  front  of  us  lay  a  cactus  hedge,  fifteen  feet  high, 
and  seeing  that  he  would  escape  unless  I  speared  before  he 
arrived  at  it,  I  crammed  my  horse  at  him.  Before  he  could 
reach  the  hedge  my  spear  was  into  him ;  but,  though  badly 
wounded,  he  struggled  on,  and  passing  through  a  gap  got 
away. 

Fortunately,  at  this  moment,  I  was  joined  by  Bulkley, 
who  came  up  on  the  other  side,  and,  meeting  the  boar,  turned 
him  back.  He  was  afraid  again  to  face  the  open  ;  but,  stick- 
ing to  the  hedge,  whose  overhanging  branches  prevented  our 
getting  at  him,  he  kept  dodging  back  towards  the  sugar-cane, 
which  was  not  far  distant.  Judging  that  if  he  could  only 
reach  its  friendly  shelter  he  would  be  safe  from  his  pursuers, 
he  at  length  made  a  rush.  Just  then  I  found  an  opening  in 
the  cactus,  and,  joining  Bulkley,  we  raced  after  him. 

About  fifty  yards  from  the  canes  was  a  steep  green  slope, 
at  the  top  of  which  we  both  speared  him  at  the  same  instant. 
Bulkley  drove  his  spear  from  his  stern  to  his  chest,  while 
mine  passed  through  across  his  body,  and  as  we  let  them  go 
the  transfixed  boar  rolled  down  the  slope  and  lay  dead  at  the 
bottom. 

Altogether  it  was  a  most  exciting  chase,  and  we  had 
reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  on  the  finish,  for  had  we  not 
slain  the  boar  when  we  did,  he  would  have  reached  the  canes, 
and  we  should  not  again  have  been  able  to  make  him  break 
cover. 

Suspecting  that  my  horse  had  got  badly  pricked  by  the 
mimosa  thorns,  I  dismounted  and  examined  his  head.  I 
found  one  spike  driven  through  the  cartilage  of  his  nose,  and 
another  broken  short  off,  just  above  the  eye.  Both  were  so 
firmly  imbedded  that  I  had  to  draw  them  out  with  my  teeth 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         151 

but  no  bad  consequences  ensued.      This  was  the  last  boar 
which  I  saw  killed  on  the  Samburmuttee. 

In  the  hot  summer  evenings  we  found  some  amuse- 
ment at  Eheenjah  in  shooting  ducks  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. The  sport  was  conducted  in  a  lazy  manner,  for 
on  these  occasions  we  started  off  in  a  shooting-cart,  and 
with  pipes  alight  drove  down  to  the  bed  of  the  stream, 
where  we  halted.  About  sunset,  the  ducks  would  fly  up  and 
down  the  river,  within  easy  distance,  and  we  shot  them  from 
the  cart.  They  were  large  fine  gray  ducks,  with  bright  orange 
feet. 

The  rains  were  now  not  far  off,  and  we  had  planned  an  excur- 
sion in  quest  of  large  game  in  the  country  towards  Lunawarra. 
Our  party  consisted  of  four ;  to  wit,  Ashburner,  Arbuthnot, 
Bulkley,  and  myself ;  and  we  had  secured  the  services  of  a 
good  shikaree  in  the  person  of  old  Bheeka,  a  sergeant  in  the 
Guzerat  Koli  Corps,  who,  with  several  of  his  own  men,  had 
been  sent  on  about  three  weeks  before  us  to  examine  the  ground, 
and  ascertain  where  tigers  were  to  be  found,  so  that  we  should 
lose  no  time  in  moving  camps  in  quest  of  game. 

Ashburner  and  Arbuthnot  had  preceded  us.  Bulkley  and 
I  started  one  afternoon  from  Ahmedabad,  and  rode  out  a  stage 
on  borrowed  nags.  Here  we  found  our  shooting-carts  in 
readiness  with  hired  bullocks,  our  own  having  been  sent  on  to 
Kuppurwunj,  which  we  hoped  to  reach  early  next  morning. 
But  the  hired  bullocks  gave  us  much  trouble,  and,  at  starting, 
bolted  and  upset  Bulkley;  then  they  shut  up,  and  crawled 
along  at  a  wretched  pace.  Fortunately,  as  the  day  broke, 
we  got  fresh  ones  from  a  village,  but  it  was  late -before  we 
reached  Kuppurwunj.  Here  we  breakfasted,  and  after  a  hot 
ride  of  many  miles  we  arrived  at  Beerpoor,  where  we  met  our 
friends.  Our  carts  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon. 


152  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Bheeka  was  in  attendance — he  had  been  busy,  and  told  us 
of  about  eighteen  beasts,  which  he  had  either  seen  or  tracked, 
within  the  range  of  our  operations.  In  one  place  were  five 
tigers  ;  in  another  two  ;  in  another  a  panther,  and  so  on.  It 
was  arranged  that  we  should  first  move  on  the  five  tigers  ; 
beating  "  on  spec "  some  likely  places  on  the  road ;  but  we 
found  nothing,  and  by  the  time  we  reached  our  camp  at  Mug- 
goree  it  was  about  3  P.M. 

The  tigers  were  said  to  live  in  the  bed  of  the  Watruck 
river,  about  a  mile  from  the  village.  On  reaching  the  tents 
Bheeka  and  his  men  were  brought  up  for  consultation,  and  it 
was  settled  that  nothing  should  be  done  till  next  morning,  as 
it  would  be  well  not  to  disturb  the  covert :  Bheeka  then  retired. 
Before  long  a  man  came  running  in  and  said  that  there  was  a 
tiger  close  by,  and  that  the  monkeys  in  the  trees  were  swearing 
in  their  peculiar  manner.  "We  jumped  up  at  once,  and  sent 
for  Bheeka,  but  that  worthy,  on  receiving  his  orders  at  3  P.M., 
had  departed  to  his  own  quarters  in  the  village,  where  he 
forthwith  proceeded  to  get  drunk.  He  came  up,  wild  and  in- 
coherent, and  we  saw  at  once  that  no  work  was  to  be  got  from 
either  him  or  his  men.  We  went  out,  however,  and  I  saw  the 
tiger,  a  male  of'  the  largest  size,  moving  along  the  face  of  the 
hill.  Some  of  us  ran  on  and  tried  to  head  him,  but  he  slipped 
away,  and  not  seeing  him  again  we  returned  to  camp. 

At  nine  next  morning  we  moved  out  and  went  towards  the 
river.  We  had  only  one  elephant,  and  as  it  had  never  been 
tried,  it  was  not  much  sought  after  by  any  of  the  party. 

After  examining  the  ground,  we  found  that  the  tigers  had 
taken  up  their  quarters  in  a  piece  of  very  rough  scrub  by  the 
river-side,  covered  with  large  stones,  long  grass,  and  thick 
green  willow  bushes,  many  of  which  were  bent  over  and 
weighed  down  by  large  masses  of  driftwood  carried  down  by 
floods  during  the  monsoons. 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         153 

We  were  all  new  at  the  work,  and  trusted  a  good  deal  to 
Bheeka,  who,  when  sober,  was  a  good  shikaree.  By  his  direc- 
tion we  were  posted  in  trees  at  various  points  on  one  side  of 
the  cover,  while  the  beaters  advanced  into  the  jungle  with 
loud  yells  and  beating  of  drums.  Very  soon  the  father  of  the 
family  appeared  ;  he  was  no  doubt  the  big  beast  we  had  seen 
the  day  before.  He  came  out  either  to  Arbuthnot  or  Ashbur- 
ner,  who  were  posted  near  each  other,  and  one  of  them  wounded 
him  severely,  turning  him  back  into  the  jungle.  On  hearing 
the  shots  the  beaters  promptly  drew  back,  and  could  not  again 
be  induced  to  enter  the  covert,  but  the  yelling  was  redoubled. 

My  post  was  in  a  tree  at  the  upper  end  of  a  small  water- 
course, about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  edge  of  the  thick  wil- 
lows. My  rifle  had  recently  been  re-stocked  by  a  native 
artificer,  who  had  so  arranged  the  triggers  that  if  placed  on  full 
cock  both  barrels  would  go  together,  or  nearly  so.  When  deer- 
shooting,  I  got  over  this  difficulty  by  cocking  one  barrel  only. 

Soon  after  the  old  tiger  had  been  wounded  I  saw  a  tigress 
leave  the  covert  and  come  up  the  watercourse  towards  my 
tree.  Forgetting  the  peculiarity  of  my  rifle,  I  cocked  both 
barrels,  and  when  she  was  within  thirty  paces  I  fired.  My 
rifle  went  off  with  a  great  report  and  a  sharp  recoil,  and  I 
then  found  I  had  let  off  both  barrels. 

The  tigress  fell  forward,  and  remained  quite  motionless, 
neither  moving  tail  nor  paws.  My  gun-bearer,  who  was  seated 
beside  me,  passed  the  second  gun,  a  smoothbore,  and  I  sat 
ready  to  fire  in  case  the  beast  should  move.  From  her  posi- 
tion she  looked  as  if  merely  checked  by  the  report  of  my  rifle, 
and  crouching  for  a  charge.  Meanwhile  the  beaters  remained 
yelling  on  the  far  side  of  the  river,  where  they  had  perched 
themselves  on  trees  commanding  views  of  the  covert,  which 
they  prudently  did  not  attempt  to  enter. 


154  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

My  three  friends  left  their  passes  and  came  towards  me, 
but  halted  when  I  told  them  of  the  tigress.  As  she  remained 
motionless,  I  began  to  think  she  must  have  been  killed  in- 
stantaneously, so  calling  on -them  to  cover  my  descent,  I  came 
down,  and  we  went  up  to  her.  She  had  been  struck  by  both 
balls.  One  had  entered  about  the  root  of  the  neck  on  the 
right  side,  passing  out  behind  the  left  forearm,  the  other  had 
taken  her  through  the  loins,  and  the  combined  results  were 
that  she  had  sunk — stone  dead — in  her  tracks. 

I  was  not  in  very  robust  health  about  this  time,  and  the 
effect  of  the  sun,  which  was  very  powerful,  brought  on  a  feeling 
of  deadly  sickness  ;  and,  soon  after  coming  down  from  my  tree, 
I  became  violently  ill.  My  comrades  gave  me  weak  brandy 
and  water,  and  poured  water  over  my  head,  and  in  about  half- 
an-hour  the  more  acute  symptoms  subsided,  but  I  was  not 
fit  to  go  on. 

My  friends  were  vexed  at  losing  the  big  tiger,  which  they 
had  wounded  badly,  and  they  determined  to  go  into  the  covert 
together  and  hunt  him  out.  I  did  my  utmost  to  dissuade  them, 
but  they  had  been  reading  Eice's  accounts  of  tiger-shooting, 
and  assured  me  they  would  advance  shoulder  to  shoulder,  and 
proceed  with  the  utmost  caution. 

Mounting  a  riding  camel,  I  returned  to  the  tents,  and 
kept  quiet  for  the  rest  of  the  afternoon.  My  friends  returned 
about  5  P.M.,  not  having  seen  the  wounded  beast ;  they  had 
gone  into  the  covert  as  they  had  proposed,  and  had  seen  one 
small  tiger,  at  which  one  of  the  party  had  attempted  to  fire, 
but  his  rifle  snapped  ;  and,  altogether,  I  thought  they  had 
reason  to  congratulate  themselves  on  their  want  of  success. 

As  our  men  assured  us  that  there  were  still  a  tigress  and 
two  large  cubs  in  the  covert,  we  went  to  the  same  ground  next 
morning,  and  took  up  the  same  positions.  I  saw  the  tigress, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         155 

which  came  out  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  turned  back 
to  the  willows.  Then  one  of  the  cubs  came  out :  he  was  a 
small  beast,  about  six  feet  from  tip  to  tip.  He  stood  broad- 
side on  at  seventy  yards,  and  I  dropped  him  dead  with  one 
shot. 

The  beaters  had  again  taken  to  the  trees,  and  declined 
to  enter  the  covert,  so  after  a  consultation  it  was  agreed 
that  Ashburner  and  Bulkley  should  take  up  fresh  posi- 
tions in  trees,  and  that  Arbuthnot  and  I  should  go  in  with 
a  few  picked  men  and  drive  out  the  tigress. 

The  chief  of  the  village  had  come  out  with  us  that 
morning,  with  a  considerable  following.  Ashburner  had 
lent  him  a  carbine,  and  he  and  his  men  also  posted 
themselves  in  a  tree  near  the  edge  of  the  willows.  We 
hunted  about  for  some  time,  and,  as  I  now  believe,  we  were 
fortunate  in  not  finding  the  tigress,  who  would  certainly  have 
left  her  mark  on  one  of  us.  As  we  came  up  to  a  thick  patch 
of  willows,  near  the  edge  of  the  covert,  several  shots  were  fired 
in  our  front  by  the  chief  and  his  men,  and  we  heard  their 
bullets  ping  in  the  air  as  they  glanced  off  the  stones.  Our 
position  was  not  a  good  one.  A  tiger — probably  wounded — 
somewhere  close  to  us,  and  an  excited  chieftain  firing  "  pro- 
miscuous "  into  the  covert. 

We  shouted  to  him  to  "  cease  firing,"  and  made  the  best 
of  our  way  out  of  the  jungle.  Going  up  to  him,  we  found  the 
chief  had  fired  at  and  killed  the  other  cub,  which  lay  dead 
near  his  tree. 

A  palaver  was  now  held,  and  as  we  believed  that  only 
the  tigress  remained,  and  that  her  temper  would  not  be 
improved  by  the  slaughter  of  her  offspring,  we  decided  on 
leaving  her  alone  for  that  day.  So,  getting  some  men 
together,  we  carried  out  the  two  cubs,  and  were  starting  off 


156  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

to  our  camp  when  we  heard  shouts  from  the  covert,  followed 
by  the  cry  that  a  man  had  been  seized  by  the  tigress. 

It  turned  out  that  a  party  of  men,  unconnected  with  us, 
who  were  passing  near  t}ie  place,  had  heard  the  shots,  and 
from  motives  of  curiosity  had  joined  our  people  at  the  spot 
where  the  chief  had  killed  the  second  cub.  When  all  had  left 
the  covert,  one  of  these  men  missed  the  scabbard  of  his  knife, 
and  returned  to  the  spot  where  the  cub  had  fallen,  supposing 
he  had  dropped  it  there.  He  was  accompanied  by  one  of  his 
friends,  and  as  they  approached  the  spot  they  came  on  the 
tigress  licking  the  blood  from  the  dead  leaves.  She  charged 
on  them  at  once,  and  as  the  unfortunate  men  turned  to  run, 
one  of  them  was  dashed  to  the  earth.  The  tigress  seized  him 
in  her  teeth  by  the  waist,  driving  her  fangs  deep  into  his  body, 
and  shaking  him  as  a  dog  would  a  rat  She  then  slunk  back 
into  the  willows,  and  had  disappeared  by  the  time  we  reached 
the  place. 

"We  feared  from  the  first  that  the  man's  case  was  hopeless, 
but  we  had  him  carefully  carried  to  the  tent,  where  we 
dressed  his  wounds,  and  did  all  in  our  power,  but  he  sank 
fast,  and  died  next  morning. 

Apart  from  the  feeling  of  regret  for  the  poor  man,  we 
feared  the  event  would  seriously  affect  our  success  during 
the  rest  of  the  expedition  ;  for  though  we  were  in  no  way  to 
blame,  and  the  man  had  met  his  death  solely  by  his  own  rash 
act  in  returning  to  the  jungle,  yet  he  had  died  in  our  camp, 
and  we  knew  we  should  get  all  the  credit  of  his  death  among 
the  country  folks.  We  gave  his  friends  money  for  the  funeral 
expenses,  and  they  carried  off  the  body  to  be  burnt  at  his 
native  village. 

Soon  after  they  had  left  we  went  forth  to  hunt  in  the 
bed  of  the  Watruck  river,  a  few  miles  above  the  scene 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         157 

of  the  previous  day's  disaster.  Some  of  our  men  had  been 
out  in  the  early  morning,  and  had  followed  up  the  fresh  track 
of  a  tiger  into  the  willows  which  fringed  the  banks  of  the 
stream.  At  this  spot  the  river  was  about  eighteen  inches  in 
depth  from  bank  to  bank,  and  the  sides,  which  sloped  down 
sharply  to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  water,  were  clothed  with 
thick  green  bushes. 

The  main  river  was  joined  by  several  deep  and  tortuous 
nullahs,  partially  filled  with  dry  grass  eight  feet  high,  which 
had  escaped  the  conflagration  in  the  annual  burning  of  the 
surrounding  jungle.  Altogether  the  spot  was  very  tigerish. 
Away  from  the  bed  of  the  river  the  jungle  was  bare  and 
stony,  and  the  black  ashes  of  the  burnt  grass  seemed  to 
render  the  heat  more  intense.  The  trees  were  clear  of  leaves, 
and  the  only  shade  to  be  got  was  on  the  north  side  of  their 
trunks. 

On  this  day  Bulkley  and  Arbuthnot  wished  to  try 
the  elephant,  so  they  mounted  him  together,  and  proceeded 
to  beat  down  the  bed  of  the  stream  towards  Ashburner 
and  myself,  who  were  posted  in  trees  on  the  bank.  My  tree 
was  in  a  good  position  on  the  edge  of  a  deep  nullah,  and 
mounting,  with  my  gun-bearer,  we  perched  ourselves  and  sat 
quiet. 

We  soon  heard  the  elephant  trumpet,  and  a  glimpse  was 
obtained  of  the  tiger  by  those  in  the  howdah  ;  but  the  trees 
hung  so  much  over  the  water,  and  were  so  large  and  dense,  that 
the  elephant  could  only  be  driven  in  the  centre  of  the  stream. 
Stones  were  flung  in  freely  from  above,  but  the  tiger  would 
not  again  show,  though  we  worked  after  him  for  two  hours. 

All  this  time  I  was  sitting  in  the  tree  exposed  to  thefullforce 
of  the  blazing  May  sun,  and  I  had  another  attack,  similar  to  that 
from  which  I  suffered  on  the  first  day.  My  attendant  would 


158  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

not  let  me  descend,  as  he  said  he  was  sure  the  tiger  was  not 
far  off.  So,  tying  the  guns  to  the  tree,  he  passed  his  turban 
round  my  body,  and  kept  me  in  my  place.  We  called  to 
Ashburner,  who  was  not  far  offj  and  he  left  his  tree,  and  came 
with  several  men  to  our  assistance  and  helped  me  down.  We 
then  left  the  river-bank,  and  I  was  placed  in  the  shade  of  the 
trunk  of  a  tree. 

I  began  to  feel  rather  better,  and  Ashburner  had  shouted 
to  the  others  to  come  and  have  luncheon.  He  was  busy 
unpacking  the  basket,  when  we  heard  a  great  uproar  from  the 
river,  followed  by  two  shots,  and  snatching  up  our  rifles,  we 
ran  forward  in  time  to  meet  Bulkley  staggering  up  the  bank 
with  his  clothes  all  torn  and  bloody. 

They  had  dismounted  from  the  elephant  in  the  bed  of  the 
river,  where  they  were  joined  by  some  of  the  beaters,  and 
were  on  their  way  up  the  bank  to  join  us  at  luncheon. 
Arbuthnot  was  somewhat  in  advance,  and  Bulkley  followed 
with  a  number  of  beaters,  when  the  latter  suddenly  called  out 
"  The  tiger !  the  tiger ! "  and  fled  incontinently. 

Bulkley  wheeled  round,  and  at  that  instant  the  tiger 
charged  out.  It  had  been  lying  in  the  deep  shade  caused  by 
a  mass  of  willows,  bent  over  by  a  heap  of  drift  and  debris 
from  the  river  ;  and  Arbuthnot,  and  the  men  with  him,  must 
have  passed  within  a  few  yards  of  it  on  their  way  up  the 
bank.  As  the  tiger  charged,  Bulkley  fired  both  barrels  in  his 
face,  but,  failing  to  stop  him,  turned  and  endeavoured  to  get 
away.  His  foot  slipped,  and  he  fell  forward  against  the  bank. 
At  that  instant  the  tiger  seized  him  by  the  back,  just  over 
the  shoulder-blade,  and  carried  him  off  for  about  twenty 
yards.  Bulkley  had  probably  wounded  him  in  his  charge, 
for  he  now  dropped  him  and  retired  into  the  bush,  and  did  not 
again  show.  The  wounded  man  picked  himself  up,  and  met 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         159 

us  as  we  advanced,  and  we  supported  him  to  the  spot  where 
we  had  been  sitting. 

Cutting  open  his  clothes,  we  found  his  back  fearfully 
lacerated,  but  the  discharge  of  blood  was  not  great.  The 
tiger  had  lifted  him  by  the  muscles  of  the  back,  and  that 
with  no  tender  grasp  ;  but  we  could  form  no  idea  of  the 
actual  mischief  done. 

A  litter  having  been  constructed,  we  raised  him  and  set 
off  for  the  camp.  His  pluck  was  wonderful,  and  he  conversed 
freely  with  us  on  the  road,  and  explained  the  whole  matter. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  tent  we  made  all  preparations  for 
taking  him  to  the  Baroda  cantonment,  distant  about  eighty 
miles,  where  we  could  place  him  under  proper  medical  treat- 
ment. Meanwhile  we  carefully  washed  his  wounds,  and 
over  the  whole  laid  a  huge  flour  poultice. 

We  marched  that  evening,  carrying  our  friend  on  a  cot, 
borne  on  men's  shoulders,  and  by  daylight  next  morning  we 
had  got  over  twenty-five  miles.  A  tent  was  then  pitched  in 
the  shade,  and  we  kept  him  quiet  till  evening,  when  we  again 
marched,  and  so  arrived,  after  three  or  four  days,  at  Baroda. 
Quinine  and  castor  oil  were  given,  and  the  general  health  of 
the  patient  carefully  attended  to. 

The  British  Eesident  at  the  Guicowar's  court,  having 
heard  of  our  disaster,  sent  out  a  skilled  medical  man,  who  met 
us  about  ten  miles  from  the  cantonment,  and  under  whose 
charge  Bulkley  remained  for  a  month,  by  which  time  his 
wounds  were  sufficiently  healed  to  allow  me  to  take  him  to 
Surat,  which  we  reached  in  five  marches.  I  remained  with 
him  while  at  Baroda,  where  my  regiment — from  which  I  was 
detached  on  staff  employ — was  then  stationed. 

Another  shooting  party  was  out,  and,  as  their  leave  was 
up,  we  daily  expected  them  in  cantonments.  One  morning 


160  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

a  man  arrived  with  the  news  that  one  of  the  party  had  been 
wounded  by  a  tiger,  and  was  on  his  way  in.  Soon  after, 
Langton,  of  my  regiment,  was  carried  in  on  a  litter.  Two 
days  before,  having  left  his  comrades,  he  was  on  his  way  back 
to  Baroda  alone.  Hearing  of  a  tiger  in  the  bed  of  the  Mhye 
river,  he  went  after  and  wounded  it.  The  beast  got  away 
among  some  rocks,  and  as  Langton  was  endeavouring  to  dis- 
lodge him,  he  charged,  knocked  him  over,  and  bit  him  through 
the  elbow-joint  and  thumb.  The  tiger  then  left  him,  and  his 
people  got  him  home  to  his  tent.  Men  were  procured,  and 
having  placed  him  on  a  litter,  they  set  off  towards  the  canton- 
ment. 

In  this  way  they  moved  all  that  afternoon,  the  whole  of 
the  following  day,  and  the  third  till  11  A.M.,  when  they  reached 
Baroda.  The  wounded  man  was  quite  sensible,  and  free  from 
any  great  pain,  and  gave  iis  a  full  account  of  his  misadventure. 
We  got  him  put  to  bed,  and  he  soon  after  fell  off  into  a  drowsy 
state,  from  which  he  never  recovered.  A  brother  officer  and 
I  watched  him  during  the  night,  and  at  2  A.M.  I  saw  such  a 
decided  change  come  over  him  that  I  at  once  sent  for  the 
doctor,  who  was  himself  on  the  sick  list.  All  that  was  possible 
was  done  for  Langton,  but  he  never  rallied,  and  died  in  the 
afternoon.  He  was  buried  next  evening  with  military 
honours.  He  had  been  in  a  nervous  and  excitable  state  for 
some  time  previous  to  the  accident,  but  there  was  no  doubt  his 
death  was  accelerated  by  undue  exposure  to  the  sun  after  the 
shock  which  he  had  sustained. 

Bulkley  and  I  had  a  severe  march  to  Surat,  which  was 
distant  ninety  miles.  The  rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  in  those 
days  the  railway  was  not  commenced.  All  the  nullahs  were 
unbridged,  and  some  could  only  be  crossed  on  cots,  floated  on 
large  earthen  pots,  procured  from  the  nearest  village. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         161 

Bulkley  was  carried  in  a  palanquin  by  about  twenty  men, 
and  I  rode,  having  previously  removed  my  horse's  shoes, 
which  otherwise  would  have  been  drawn  off  by  the  tenacious 
mud. 

On  several  occasions  the  bearers  had  to  carry  the  palan- 
quin on  their  heads,  while  I  dismounted,  and  wading  and 
floundering  waist-deep,  crossed  stretches  of  water  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  width.  So  bad  was  the  road,  that  by  starting  at 
daylight  and  allowing  a  couple  of  hours'  halt  at  mid-day,  we 
did  not  reach  the  end  of  a  march  of  fourteen  miles  till  some 
time  after  dark.  However,  no  damage  was  done  to  my 
patient,  and  in  Surat  he  again  came  under  the  doctor's  hands. 
The  wounds  refused  to  close,  and  for  upwards  of  twelve 
months  continued  to  discharge,  giving  at  times  excessive 
pain.  By  my  advice  Bulkley  then  went  down  to  Bombay, 
where  he  consulted  an  eminent  surgeon.  This  man  placed 
him  under  chloroform,  and  laying  open  the  wounds,  extracted 
considerable  portions  of  the  shoulder-blade  which  had  been 
splintered  off  by  the  teeth  of  the  tiger,  and  were  keeping  up 
a  constant  irritation. 

Soon  after  this  operation  the  wounds  completely  closed 
up.  The  foregoing  chapter  is,  I  think,  worthy  the  attention 
of  young  sportsmen,  and  may  warn  them  from  attempting  to 
follow  up  wounded  or  otherwise  infuriated  wild  beasts  on 
foot. 


M 


CHAPTEE  X. 

Indore — Kautcote  Jungles — Tiger  wounded — Large  Tiger  seen— Cry  of  Tigers 
when  charging  —  Bad  Mahouts  —  Night  Watching  for  Tigers  —  Cheetul 
shot — Herd  of  Sambur — A  Bear's  Throne — Murrel  shot — Tiger  missed 
—Wild  Dogs— Craving  of  Deer  for  Salt— Shooting  with  a  High  Tra- 
jectory— Antelope-shooting  at  Indore— Jowra  Nawaub — Cheetah  Hunt — 
Tame  Buck  (?)  shot  —  A  Buck  in  the  Grass — A  Long  Shot — March  to 
Bundelcund — Thunder-storm — Cholera — Snipe-shooting — Jansi — Duttiah 
—The  Chiefs  Preserve— Four  Nylghae  shot— Wild  Pig  shot— Stalking 
Antelopes— Right  and  Left  Shot  at  Chinkara— Cheetah's  Tactics— Oorae 
—Gipsy  Kettle— Return  March— Blue  Bull  shot— Bustard  shot. 

IN  the  hot  season  of  1856  I  marched  from  Ahmedabad  to 
Indore  in  Malwa.  I  had  always  heard  of  this  part  of  Central 
India  as  a  good  sporting  country,  but  I  arrived  too  late  in  the 
year  to  be  able  to  organise  an  expedition,  even  had  I  been  able 
to  get  the  necessary  leave  of  absence.  The  country  was  all 
new  to  me,  and  I  knew  that  the  information  of  the  natives 
around  the  cantonment  was  hardly  to  be  relied  on.  Game 
there  was  in  plenty  within  sixty  miles  ;  but  without  good 
shikarees  little  could  be  done  by  a  stranger. 

The  Mhow  cantonment  was  distant  only  fourteen  miles, 
and  some  few  of  the  officers  employed  shikarees ;  but  they 
were  only  to  be  got  to  work  by  high  pay  and  large  rewards, 
and,  as  a  rule,  confined  their  services  to  the  garrison.  The 
Vindyah  range  of  mountains  was  close  to  Simrole,  twelve 
miles  from  Indore,  where  the  table-land  of  Malwa  ceased,  and 
the  ground  fell  away  to  the  valley  of  the  Nerbudda  river. 
The  intervening  country  was  very  rugged  ;  covered  with  hills 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  163 

and  deep  ravines.  Bradford,  of  the  Madras  Cavalry,  started 
with  me  to  explore  this  country,  and  riding  to  Baie,  eighteen 
miles  from  Indore,  on  the  Bombay  road,  we  turned  to  the  left, 
and  after  some  miles  along  a  jungle  track  we  arrived  at 
Kautcote,  where  our  men  had  preceded  us.  The  Maharajah 
Holkar  had  kindly  lent  us  two  elephants,  but  they  were 
unsteady,  and  were  driven  by  a  couple  of  rascals  who  feared 
to  take  them  near  a  tiger.  Next  morning  we  moved  into  the 
jungle,  and  encamped  in  a  lovely  spot  by  the  banks  of  a  river, 
a  few  miles  from  Kautcote.  In  the  jungle  were  many  iron- 
pits  which  had  been  worked  in  the  olden  day,  but  were  now 
buried  in  grass  and  bushes,  and  given  over  to  wild  beasts. 

We  had  not  been  long  at  our  tents  when  one  of  our  men 
came  in  and  reported  he  had  taken  the  fresh  track  of  a 
tiger  up  to  one  of  these  pits,  and  was  anxious  that  we  should 
at  once  go  and  drive  him  out.  On  arriving  at  the  ground  we 
saw  that  the  tiger  had  gone  into  some  holes  under  a  steep 
bank,  so  making  a  circuit,  we  posted  ourselves  above,  and 
threw  down  stones.  We  had  hoped  that  he  would  bolt  out 
in  front,  but  he  showed  no  sign  till  we  were  about  to  give 
him  up,  when  he  suddenly  appeared  on  our  left,  coming  up 
the  bank.  I  at  once  fired,  but  he  dashed  on,  and  in  an  instant 
was  lost  among  the  long  grass.  On  examining  the  spot  we 
found  drops  of  blood  ;  but  it  was  not  safe  to  follow  him  on 
foot,  for  the  grass  was  three  and  four  feet  high,  and  the  trees 
and  bushes  would  not  have  allowed  the  passage  of  an  elephant. 
We  were  obliged  to  leave  him  and  return  to  the  tents. 

Next  day  was  blank,  and  we  moved  camp  farther  into  the 
wilderness.  On  the  way  we  came  on  some  old  marks  of  bison, 
and  had  a  chance  at  a  herd  of  nylghae,  but  would  not  fire,  as  we 
did  not  wish  to  disturb  the  country.  As  we  approached  a 
ravine  running  down  from  some  springs,  we  observed  a  very 


164  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

large  tiger  standing  in  a  streamlet  about  200  yards  from  us. 
He  had  evidently  seen  us,  and  after  a  few  seconds  he  moved 
up  the  hill-side,  which  was  covered  with  bamboos  and  de- 
tached fragments  of  rock.  On  arriving  at  the  spot  where  we 
had  seen  him,  we  came  in  full  view  of  the  huge  beast,  as  he 
stood,  a  hundred  paces  above  us,  at  the  base  of  a  large  rock. 
He  was  watching  us,  with  one  paw  raised  like  a  pointer  dog, 
and  his  head  turned  sideways  towards  us.  Notwithstanding 
the  distance,  we  were  about  to  fire,  when,  with  a  series  of 
savage  growls,  he  charged  down  the  hill,  and  rushing  across 
the  ravine,  disappeared,  and  we  saw  him  no  more.  The  word 
"  growl,"  which  I  have  used  above  is,  I  think  inaccurate,  but 
I  know  not  what  term  to  use.  A  tiger  when  lying  wounded 
in  a  thicket  will  sometimes  "growl,"  but  when  he  charges 
his  cry  is  more  of  a  deep  cavernous  grunt,  very  horrible  to 
hear,  and  well  calculated  to  try  a  man's  nerves.  On  one  or 
two  rare,  occasions  I  have  heard  a  tiger  roar,  and  have  often- 
times heard  him  growl,  but  the  war-cry  which  he  gives  when 
charging  is  quite  distinct  from  either  of  these. 

After  resting  a  while  we  moved  towards  the  place  where 
we  had  sent  our  servants  and  tents.  The  jungle  had  been  only 
very  partially  burnt,  and  all  the  edges  of  the  streams,  together 
with  large  tracts  of  the  more  level  jungle,  were  covered  with 
grass  two  feet  or  more  in  height.  We  were  skirting  up  the 
bank  of  a  considerable  stream,  when  we  saw  a  tiger  move  up 
from  the  river  on  the  opposite  side,  and  disappear  among  the 
long  grass.  The  jungle  was  fairly  open,  and  we  thought  we 
might  try  our  luck  on  the  elephants  ;  so,  calling  them  up,  we 
mounted.  We  had  to  proceed  up  stream  some  distance,  as 
the  bank  was  too  abrupt  to  allow  the  elephants  to  descend. 
Having  at  length  effected  a  passage,  we  moved  down  to  where 
we  had  seen  the  tiger,  and  there,  among  the  grass,  we  found 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         165 

half  the  carcass  of  a  recently  killed  nylghae.  Bringing  the 
elephants  abreast  we  turned  up  the  hill,  and  presently  came 
on  three  tigers  sitting  quietly  in  the  grass,  within  thirty 
paces  of  each  other.  They  seemed  to  regard  us  with  great 
unconcern.  Whispering  to  the  mahout  to  stop,  I  was  in  the 
act  of  raising  my  rifle,  when,  with  a  shrill  trumpet,  my 
elephant  rushed  to  the  front.  I  was  of  course  jerked  down 
into  the  seat,  and  before  I  could  recover  myself  the  three 
tigers  had  vanished.  Looking  around  for  my  friend,  I  found 
his  elephant  had  behaved  even  worse  than  mine,  and  had 
nearly  smashed  him  against  the  overhanging  branch  of  a  tree. 
We  deplored  our  hard  fate,  and  abused  the  elephants  ;  but 
had  I  known  then  all  I  know  now,  the  blame,  and  probably 
the  punishment,  would  have  fallen  on  the  mahouts. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  reached  our  camp  at 
Ghora  Puchar.  It  was  by  no  means  a  cheerful  spot,  and  we 
were  informed  that  on  a  former  occasion  the  groom  of  some 
officer  from  Mhow  had  been  killed  here  by  a  tiger.  It  was 
suggested  by  some  of  our  people  that  we  might  have  a  chance 
of  a  shot  by  sitting  up  at  night  over  a  bait.  Bradford  had  a 
young  buffalo  tied  up,  while  I  sat  over  the  remains  of  a  nylghae 
which  had  been  killed  two  days  before.  Hyaenas  were 
plentiful,  and  they  fought  over  the  carcass  of  the  blue  bull 
all  night,  but  no  tiger  came  near  me ;  and  Bradford  was 
equally  unsuccessful.  On  leaving  my  tree  at  daybreak  I 
made  a  short  detour  through  the  jungle,  and  on  my  way  to 
the  tents  I  came  on  a  large  herd  of  cheetul.  No  good  buck 
presented  himself,  so,  as  we  were  in  want  of  meat,  I  knocked 
over  a  fat  doe,  which  we  carried  to  camp. 

About  this  time  we  were  told  that  the  supply  of  flour  was 
running  short,  and  that  we  must  move  in  nearer  civilisation. 
In  fact,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  hands  of  our  attendants,  who, 


166  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

not  being  in  our  pay,  and  in  no  way  imbued  with  the  love  of  a 
woodland  life,  sighed  for  the  bazaars  and  flesh-pots  of  Indore. 
These  gentlemen  no  doubt  gave  the  cue  to  the  rest  of  the  party, 
and  we  were  constrained  to  retrace  our  steps.   We  had  still  two 
days  more  of  leave,  and  these  we  determined  to  spend  at  our 
first  camping-ground.     The  camp  was  therefore  struck,  and 
the  tents   and  servants   sent  off  by  the  most  direct  line. 
Taking  our  gun-bearers  and  a  few  of  the  aborigines  who  had 
joined  us,  we  made  a  wide  circuit  through  a  very  singular 
country.     The  whole  of  the  grass  had  been  burnt,  and,  in 
many  parts,  the  surface  of  the  ground  was  nothing  but  a  sort 
of  black  freestone,  which  had,  when  in  its  liquid  state,  become 
mixed  up   with  minute  veins  of  quartz.     The  freestone  had 
worn  down  under  the  combined  effects  of  wind  and  weather, 
while  the  thin  ridges  of  quartz  stood  out  as  sharp  as  knives, 
and  were  most  destructive  to  our  boots.     Emerging  from  a 
small  ravine,  we  came  in  full  view  of  a  large  herd  of  sambur, 
headed  by  a  noble  stag.     They  stood  watching  us,  but  were 
too  far  to  risk  a  shot ;  and,  after  a  short  time,  they  went  off, 
the  hinds  leading,  then  the  smaller  stags,  and,  in  rear  of  all, 
the  monarch  of  the  herd. 

None  of  the  natives  with  us  had  any  pretensions  to  being 
shikarees,  and  we  wandered  on  in  a  purposeless  manner, 
only  endeavouring  to  eke  out  the  day  till  our  servants  should 
have  time  to  arrive  and  pitch  the  tent.  As  we  ascended  a 
rocky  eminence  we  saw  a  large  bear  slink  off,  scared  by  the 
noise  made  by  our  followers.  We  found  his  seat,  and  to 
judge  from  the  polished  appearance  of  the  rock  it  had  been 
the  resting-place  of  his  ancestors  for  many  generations,  and 
possibly  for  centuries.  It  was  on  a  slightly  concave  piece  of 
rock,  over  which  stood  an  enormous  stone,  resting  on  two  or 
three  points,  and  affording  ways  of  escape  on  at  least  two  sides. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         167 

Marks  of  bears  were  numerous,  but  we  saw  no  others.  It  was 
late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  reached  our  tent,  and,  throwing 
off  our  garments,  we  plunged  into  the  stream  and  enjoyed  a 
good  bath.  We  had  a  long  talk  that  night  after  dinner,  and 
laid  plans  for  another  visit  to  these  jungles ;  for  we  could  see 
by  the  marks  in  the  forest  that  game  was  plentiful,  and  we 
were  convinced  that  with  good  shikarees  sport  might  be 
obtained.  As  it  was,  we  had  nobody  with  us  who  had  any 
love  of  the  chase,  and  the  few  people  of  Kautcote  who 
attended  our  camp  were  only  qualified  to  act  as  indifferent 
guides. 

By  10  A.M.  next  day  we  had  no  word  of  game,  so  we 
set  out  on  a  further  exploration.  Passing  a  pool  in  the 
river,  we  saw  a  small  shoal  of  the  spawn  of  the  murrel  or 
sowlee  fish.  We  knew  that  the  parent  fish  were  swimming 
below  the  shoal  and  would  presently  come  to  the  surface, 
so,  cocking  my  rifle,  I  waited  their  appearance.  As  one  of 
them  rose,  I  fired,  and  my  men  running  in,  brought  it  out. 
He  was  about  seven  pounds  in  weight.  We  then  wandered 
up  the  river  without  seeing  anything,  and  about  2  P.M.  we  had 
halted  in  the  shade  near  some  springs,  not  far  from  the  stream. 
We  lay  about  under  the  trees,  and  our  people  were  scattered 
for  some  distance  about  the  jungle.  Presently  one  of  them 
came  running  up,  and  assured  us  that  they  had  seen  a 
tiger  lying  close  by.  They  suggested  that  Bradford  should 
mount  one  of  the  elephants,  and  remain  near  where  we  then 
were  ;  and  that  I  should  accompany  them  and  drive  out  the 
tiger.  We  accordingly  crossed  the  river  about  a  hundred 
yards  below,  and  I  was  taken  up  among  some  rocks  on  the 
opposite  side,  from  whence  I  had  a  good  view  of  two  frag- 
ments of  rock  an  the  other  bank,  meeting  in  a  V  shape,  and 
overshadowed  by  a  thick  green  willow.  Behind  these  rocks 


168  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  was  assured  that  the  tiger  was  lying,  and  had  been  seen  by 
some  of  the  attendants  as  they  were  going  down  to  bathe. 
The  river  was  only  some  thirty  yards  in  width,  and  our 
position  was  quite  accessible  had  the  tiger  felt  inclined  to 
charge.  After  some  minutes  I  saw  him  raise  his  eyes  over 
the  rocks,  take  a  look  at  us,  and  sink  down  again.  This  he 
did  several  times,  and  at  length,  thinking  I  could  take  him 
in  the  head,  I  fired.  He  at  once  sprang  up  under  the  over- 
hanging willow  above  him  and  disappeared,  passing  within 
a  few  yards  of  Bradford,  whose  elephant  trumpeted  loudly, 
and,  bolting  off,  nearly  killed  him  among  the  trees. 

We  never  saw  the  tiger  again.  The  finish  had  been  quite 
in  keeping  with  the  other  parts  of  our  expedition,  and  we 
both  vowed  never  again  to  go  out  with  other  men's  servants, 
or  to  attempt  to  explore  an  unknown  country  without  proper 
shikarees.  Out  of  six  tigers  which  we  had  seen  we  had 
bagged  none,  and  one  spotted  deer  was  all  we  had  to  boast  of. 
Wild  dogs  were  numerous  in  these  forests,  and  I  saw  three 
one  morning  close  to  our  tents.  The  natives  declared  that, 
but  for  the  presence  of  the  dogs,  we  should  have  seen  many 
more  sambur  and  nylghae.  In  spite  of  our  bad  luck  we 
enjoyed  our  ten  days  very  much,  and  were  sorry  when  we 
had  to  mount  and  return  to  cantonments. 

When  in  the  Kautcote  jungle  we  had  a  good  opportunity 
of  noting  the  predilection  of  deer  for  salt.  At  some  distance 
from  our  tent  was  a  scarped  bank  in  a  dry  water-course, 
and  on  its  surface  there  was  a  strong  saline  deposit.  The 
spot  was  much  frequented  by  sambur,  and  the  fact  seemed 
known  to  the  shikarees  of  the  district,  for,  artfully  concealed 
under  the  root  of  a  tree  at  the  top  of  the  bank,  we  observed  a 
seat  whence,  no  doubt,  many  a  deadly  shot  had  been  obtained. 
The  tracks  of  the  deer  were  numerous  and  fresh  in  the  ground 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         169 

below,  and,  as  far  as  they  could  reach,  they  had  licked  the 
salt  from  the  face  of  the  bank. 

An  old  iron-pit  in  this  jungle  was  shown  to  one  of  my 
friends,  some  years  after  my  visit,  by  one  of  the  natives  of 
the  place.  He  stated  that  he  had  on  one  occasion  taken  up  a 
youthful  British  sportsman  to  this  cave,  in  which  a  tiger  had 
been  marked  down.  A  fragment  of  rock  was  hurled  into  the 
pit,  and  out  bolted  the  affrighted  tiger.  "  There/'  said  the 
shikaree,  pointing  to  the  left,  "  there  ran  the  tiger  ;  the  sahib 
stood  here  ;  and  there"  (pointing  to  a  branch  twenty-five  feet 
straight  over  his  head)  "there  is  the  mark  of  the  sahib's 
bullet !"  It  is  supposed  that  the  tiger  was  not  the  only  thing 
that  was  frightened  on  that  day. 

It  was  proposed  by  the  Nawaub  of  Jowra,  who  had  come 
into  Indore  for  the  Dussera  festival,  that  some  of  us  should 
go  out  some  morning  to  see  his  cheetahs  work.  We  accord- 
ingly made  an  early  start,  and  set  out  for  some  ground  which 
was  preserved  by  Holkar,  and  on  which  was  a  good  show  of 
black  buck.  The  Nawaub,  who  was  a  stout  heavy  man,  rode 
a  strong  hill  pony,  which  ambled  along  at  a  great  pace,  and 
the  other  officers  of  our  party  were  mounted  on  Arabs  in  the 
hope  of  a  run  at  something.  In  the  open  plain  we  came  up 
with  the  Nawaub's  men,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  in  all ; 
men  mounted  on  screaming  horses,  and  men  on  riding  camels ; 
men  on  foot  with  guns  and  dogs,  and  men  with  camels  laden 
with  tents  ;  and  last,  but  not  least,  men  on  elephants.  There 
were  other  men  in  attendance  on  the  two  cheetahs,  each  of 
which  rode  on  his  own  platform  cart ;  and,  though  hooded, 
were  apparently  aware  that  some  amusement  was  in  store  for 
them.  Several  herds  of  deer  were  in  sight,  and  they  did  not 
seem  much  disconcerted  by  the  troop  of  men,  horses,  etc.  etc. 
The  place  was  not  far  from  the  town  of  Indore,  and  they  were 


170  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

accustomed  to  such  sights.  After  some  talk,  it  was  settled 
that  one  of  the  cheetahs  should  be  taken  up  to  the  nearest 
herd ;  so  the  Nawaub,  leaving  the  main  body,  requested  us 
to  join  him.  The  deer  seemed  to  mistake  us  for  harmless 
wayfarers,  for  they  fed  quietly,  while  we  passed  at  a  distance 
of  about  eighty  yards. 

A  cheetah  was  now  unhooded,  and  on  seeing  the  deer  he 
at  once  glided  from  the  cart,  and  taking  advantage  of  every 
tuft  of  grass  and  inequality  in  the  ground,  he  crept  towards 
his  prey.  The  deer  were  meanwhile  lazily  watching  us  as 
we  went  on  without  halting,  and  the  poor  beasts  were  only 
aware  of  their  danger  when  the  leopard  made  his  rush.  There 
was  a  wild  scurry,  but  the  cheetah  was  among  them,  and  as 
the  herd  cleared  off  we  saw  him  lying  with  his  teeth  in  the 
throat  of  a  goodly  buck.  His  keeper  now  came  up  with  a 
wooden  ladle  and  a  knife,  and  cutting  the  deer's  throat  he 
caught  the  blood  in  the  spoon,  into  which  in  a  few  minutes 
the  cheetah  thrust  his  nose,  and  while  he  was  lapping  the 
blood  the  hood  was  slipped  over  his  eyes,  and  he  was  secured 
and  replaced  in  the  cart. 

As  we  moved  on  we  saw  several  bucks  feeding  singly 
about  the  plain,  and  the  Nawaub  suggested  that  I  should  take 
my  rifle  and  move  on  them  with  a  shooting- cart.  I  advanced 
on  a  very  black  fellow  with  long  horns.  He  was  lying  near 
a  small  bit  of  cultivated  land,  and  as  the  ground  was  favour- 
able I  made  sure  of  getting  within  easy  shot ;  but  when  I  was 
within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  him  the  buck  rose,  looked 
hard  at  us,  shook  his  head,  and  trotted  off  to  some  distance, 
when  he  again  lay  down.  We  followed  on  slowly  with  the 
cart,  and  I  was  about  to  fire  at  him  as  he  lay,  but  he  again 
jumped  up,  and  was  shaking  his  head  as  before  when  I  fired 
and  dropped  him.  Some  of  the  attendants  ran  in  and  cut  his 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE. 

throat,  and  he  was  placed  on  the  cart,  with  which  I  returned 
to  the  Nawaub  and  one  or  two  gentlemen  who  had  witnessed 
the  death  from  a  rising  ground. 

One  of  the  party  proceeded  to  overhaul  the  buck,  and 
forthwith  set  up  a  shout  of  derision,  for  on  examining  the 
horns,  holes  were  found  which  had  been  bored  in  them  about 
two  inches  from  the  tips.  The  natives  had  no  doubt  caught 
him  on  some  former  occasion,  and  he  had  been  let  loose  with 
catgut  nooses  attached  to  his  horns — the  object  being  to  en- 
tangle any  other  buck  with  whom  he  might  fall  in  and  engage 
in  combat.  I  got  well  roasted  for  shooting  what  my  friends 
called  a  tame  deer  ;  but,  tame  deer  or  wild,  I  had  dropped  him 
by  a  good  shot,  and  so  could  afford  to  be  chaffed. 

Notwithstanding  that  we  were  in  preserved  ground,  the 
crowd  of  followers  by  whom  the  Nawaub  was  accompanied  had 
evidently  scared  the  deer,  and  we  were  advised  to  go  on  for  a  mile 
or  two,  when  we  should  be  among  fresh  game.  We  accordingly 
mounted  our  horses  and  moved  through  a  tract  of  grass  land. 
Our  company  was  numerous  and  noisy,  and  the  chance  of  any 
addition  to  our  bag  seemed  small  at  that  moment.  We  were 
all  laughing  and  talking  as  we  rode  along,  when  I  observed, 
about  sixty  yards  on  our  left,  what  seemed  to  me  to  be  the 
points  of  a  buck's  horns,  appearing  just  over  the  long  grass. 
My  henchman  with  my  rifle  was  at  my  stirrup,  and  before  any 
of  the  party  were  aware  of  what  I  was  about,  I  had  jumped 
off,  and  fired  at  the  point  where  I  imagined  the  horns  should 
meet.  The  bullet  told  with  a  sharp  crack,  and  the  horns  dis- 
appeared. On  going  up  to  the  place  we  found  a  buck  shot 
through  the  head.  Had  I  not  seen  him,  he  would  have  lain 
still  while  the  whole  party  of  hunters  -7-  if  we  deserved  the 
name — passed  within  a  few  yards  of  him. 

At  the  foot  of  some  low  hills  we  saw  a  herd  of  deer  feeding 


172  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

in  a  cornfield,  and  the  Nawaub  called  up  the  other  cheetah 
with  his  attendants.  The  ground  was  very  bare  between  us 
and  the  deer,  and  before  the  cheetah  had  got  within  distance, 
the  herd  saw  him  and  bolted.  The  leopard,  however,  did  his 
best,  and  nearly  had  one  antelope,  but,  finding  himself  foiled, 
he  gave  in  at  once  and  was  secured  by  his  keeper.  Mean- 
while the  deer  went  off  to  our  left,  where  they  were  turned  by 
some  horsemen  ;  on  which  they  passed  in  rear  of  us  at  a  dis- 
tance of  several  hundred  yards.  A  rapid  file  fire  was  opened, 
but  without  effect,  further  than  perhaps  to  cause  the  deer  to 
bound  higher  than  usual.  The  last  shot  was  fired  by  one  of 
the  Nawaub's  men,  with  one  of  his  English  rifles.  The  deer 
must  have  been  nearly  500  yards  off  at  the  time,  and  to  our 
astonishment  one  of  them  tumbled  over.  The  shot  was  of 
course  a  fluke,  but  the  shooter  was  not  the  less  the  hero  of 
the  hour. 

The  Nawaub  now  suggested  refreshments,  and  soon  a 
string  of  camels  was  seen  coming  up  laden  with  tents,  tables, 
chairs,  and  all  manner  of  kitchen  arrangements.  Breakfast 
was  at  once  ordered,  and  while  the  tents  were  being  pitched 
we  went  out  after  some  quail  which  had  been  seen  close  by. 
The  Nawaub  intimated  his  intention  of  shooting,  and  we  had 
no  wish  to  interfere  with  his  sport,  which  we  watched  with 
great  amusement.  He  was  not  a  first-rate  marksman,  but  one 
of  his  men  could  shoot  very  fairly,  and  when  the  Nawaub 
fired,  he  also  loosed  his  piece,  but  of  course  took  no  credit  for 
any  result.  On  breakfast  being  announced  we  returned  to  the 
tents,  where  we  found  sundry  and  various  cooling  drinks,  which 
were  gratefully  swallowed.  In  the  afternoon  we  rode  back  to 
the  cantonment,  having  spent  a  very  pleasant  day,  although 
the  sporting  was  not  of  a  high  order.  The  Jowra  Nawaub  was 
always  most  hospitable  to  all  Europeans  passing  through  his 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         173 

country.  Our  last  meeting  was  in  1865,  when  I  was  his  guest 
while  on  my  way  south  from  Eajpootana.  Two  months  later 
he  died  of  cholera,  which  was  then  raging  at  Jowra. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1856  I  accompanied 
the  agent  of  the  Governor-General  through  the  Gwalior 
and  Bundelcund  states.  We  left  Indore  in  October,  and  went 
north  by  rapid  marches,  so  that,  even  had  the  country  been 
favourable,  we  should  have  had  little  time  for  shooting.  At 
this  season,  however,  the  jungles  were  filled  with  high  green 
grass,  and  there  was  no  prospect  of  shooting  till  the  cold 
weather  set  in.  We  tried  to  beat  a  jungle  near  Eagoogurh, 
and  indeed  we  started  one  large  tiger,  whose  fresh  footprints 
we  found  over  our  own  on  our  way  back  to  the  tents,  but  we 
could  make  nothing  of  it,  and  did  not  again  renew  the  attempt. 
At  Seepree  we  encountered  a  violent  thunderstorm.  The 
ground  was  hard  as  iron,  and  in  pitching  the  camp  there 
had  been  a  great  destruction  of  tent-pegs.  We  were  in  the 
cantonment  at  the  time,  calling  on  some  of  the  officers,  and 
on  returning  to  our  camp  we  found  it  flat,  with  the  exception 
of  the  big  man's  tent,  which  had  only  been  kept  standing  by 
half-a-dozen  men  holding  on  to  every  rope. 

The  soil  of  the  place  was  red,  having  a  strong  admixture 
of  ironstone,  and  our  tents  bore  the  marks  of  that  storm  for 
many  a  day.  To  add  to  our  discomfort,  cholera  had  broken 
out  among  a  large  party  which  had  joined  us  from  Oujein, 
and  had  been  communicated  to  our  camp. 

The  disease  was  aggravated  by  the  wet  and  discomfort, 
and  for  some  days  we  had  many  deaths  among  our  people. 

From  Seepree  we  moved  on  Jansi,  having  some  very  good 
snipe-shooting  on  the  road.  At  one  large  tank  they  were 
especially  numerous,  and  sometimes  we  had  six  and  seven  birds 
lying  dead  around  us.  We  also  made  some  good  bags  of 


1*74  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

ducks.  I  had  an  agreeable  companion  in  Hunt,  of  the  Bengal 
Lancers,  who  commanded  the  agent's  escort. 

At  Jansi  we  called  on  the  Eanee,  who  a  few  months  later 
was  destined  to  give  so  much  trouble  ;  and  we  also  went  over 
the  old  Fort,  where  Burgess  and  his  gallant  companions  fought 
so  well,  till  they  were  led  by  treacherous  promises  to  trust 
themselves  to  their  merciless  assailants. 

After  a  detour  to  the  south,  we  marched  to  Duttiah,  where 
the  chief,  hearing  that  we  were  fond  of  shooting,  offered  to 
send  out  his  men  with  us.  We  knew  the  sport  would  be 
but  tame,  but  having  nothing  better  on  hand,  we  started  off, 
taking  only  the  chief's  shikarees  and  our  own  gun-bearers. 
I  always  had  a  horror  of  native  gentlemen  when  out  shooting  ; 
their  utter  ignorance  of  sport  in  any  shape,  and  their  inordinate 
love  of  noise  and  large  followings,  made  them  most  undesirable 
companions.  There  are  now  and  then  exceptions,  but  they  are 
like  angels'  visits. 

On  approaching  the  preserved  ground  we  were  met  by 
the  shikarees  leading  a  tall  and  sagacious  stalking  bullock. 
A  string  was  passed  through  his  nostrils,  and  he  was  guided 
to  the  right  or  left  by  the  rein  being  thrown  on  either  side  of 
his  hump.  We  had  not  gone  far  when  we  came  on  a  herd  of 
nylghae,  browsing  among  some  thick  bushes.  One  of  them 
raised  its  head,  and  stood  watching  us  at  a  distance  of  seventy 
yards.  Hunt  told  me  to  shoot ;  so,  aiming  at  what  I  sup- 
posed was  its  shoulder,  I  fired.  The  ball  struck  timber, 
and  when  it  cleared,  I  saw  the  white  blaze  of  the  shot  on  the 
trunk  of  the  tree,  which  I  had  mistaken  for  the  shoulder  of 
the  beast.  Hunt  had  done  better,  for,  as  they  went  off,  he 
dropped  a  good  blue  bull. 

It  was  now  settled  that  we  should  separate  and  meet 
again  about  3  P.M.,  at  a  place  about  four  miles  off.  We 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         175 

were  each  accompanied  by  a  couple  of  the  Eajah's  men ; 
and  those  who  came  with  me  brought  with  them  the  stalking 
bullock.  After  moving  quietly  through  the  jungle  for  half- 
an-hour,  we  came  on  another  herd  of  nylghae ;  one  large  cow 
was  standing,  broadside  on,  about  eighty  yards  off.  I  dropped 
her  with  one  shot,  and  one  of  the  men  behind  me  was  in  the 
act  of  rushing  forward  to  finish  her,  when  I  checked  him, 
and  at  that  instant  a  blue  bull  bolted  out  into  an  open  glade 
in  the  wood,  and  stood  looking  at  us  intently.  Again  my  rifle 
cracked,  and  the  bull  staggered  wildly  forward  for  about  fifty 
yards  and  fell.  Fearing  to  lose  the  meat,  owing  to  the  throats 
not  being  cut  in  the  orthodox  manner,  the  men  now  ran  up, 
and  in  a  few  seconds  the  poor  beasts  were  lawful  beef. 

The  style  of  shooting  was  by  no  means  to  my  taste,  but  my 
attendants  seemed  highly  satisfied,  and  looked  forward  to  a 
great  feast  for  themselves  and  their  families,  though  they  cared 
little  for  sport.  Having  covered  up  the  dead  beasts  with 
boughs  of  trees,  we  went  on  a  mile  or  two,  when  we  saw  a  large 
cow  nylghae  feeding  among  some  scrub  jungle.  The  bullock 
was  now  brought  into  play,  and  stooping  down  behind  him 
with  one  of  the  men,  we  allowed  the  beast  to  graze  quietly,  at 
the  same  time  edging  him  up  towards  the  game.  The  bullock 
seemed  thoroughly  to  understand  his  work,  and  moved  at  the 
slighest  hint  from  right  to  left.  We  got  up  within  easy  shot, 
and  the  cow  was  dropped  with  one  bullet.  Satiated  with  this 
slaughter,  I  intimated  to  my  companions  that  we  should  now 
push  forward  to  rejoin  Hunt,  who  I  knew  would  be  ready  for 
his  luncheon.  A. man  was  therefore  sent  for  a  cart  on  which 
to  carry  home  the  game,  and  we  moved  on.  Before  long,  a 
huge  blue  bull  crossed  our  front,  and  stood  within  a  hundred 
yards,  with  his  shoulder  well  exposed.  I  raised  my  rifle  and 
covered  him,  but  thinking  my  companions  and  their  friends 


176  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

would  find  they  had  sufficient  occupation  for  their  time  and 
teeth,  with  the  game  already  slain,  I  lowered  my  weapon,  and 
soon  after  the  bull  went  off. 

Farther  on,  we  heard  some  wild  hogs  moving  in  a  thicket 
of  bushes  and  high  grass.  Though  I  had  spared  the  bull  I 
thought  a  pork-chop  might  be  desirable,  so  I  crept  forward. 
The  sounder,  however,  had  got  our  wind,  and  we  heard  them 
scurry  off.  One  pig  was  left  behind,  and,  on  missing  his  com- 
panions, he  set  up  a  peculiar  cry.  Presently  he  moved  out  of 
the  thicket,  and  stood  in  some  long  grass.  I  could  just  see  his 
head,  and  I  dropped  him  dead  with  a  shot  between  the  eyes. 
My  attendant,  by  this  time,  regarded  me  with  great  respect. 
Four  beasts  had  fallen  to  four  successive  shots,  and  he  had  not 
been  accustomed,  when  sporting  with  his  royal  master,  to  see 
so  large  a  result  from  so  small  an  expenditure  of  ammunition. 
We  now  emerged  into  an  open  country,  and  were  joined  by 
Hunt,  who  had  been  most  unsuccessful,  not  having  killed  any- 
thing since  the  bull  in  the  morning.  He  had  not  had  one 
other  chance. 

An  abundant  luncheon  was  now  produced,  and  to  it  we 
did  ample  justice.  Another  party  of  the  chief's  men  met  us 
here.  They  had  with  them  tame  antelopes  for  stalking,  and 
as  neither  of  us  had  seen  this  style  of  shooting,  we  directed 
them  to  come  with  us  in  the  afternoon.  The  tame  antelopes 
were  three  in  number — one  buck,  and  two  does — and  their 
human  confederate  carried  on  his  arm  a  screen  of  leafy  twigs, 
having  a  small  aperture  in  the  middle,  from  which  to  shoot. 
The  antelopes  were  held  by  their  cords,  five  or  six  yards  in 
length,  and  were  so  trained  that  a  doe  was  always  on  each 
side,  while  the  buck  passed  backwards  and  forwards  between 
them. 

A  herd  of  wild  antelopes  was  soon  seen,  and  Hunt  moved 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE. 

forward  with  the  trained  deer  and  their  keeper.  As  soon  as 
they  were  observed  by  the  herd,  the  reigning  buck  came  for- 
ward, shaking  his  head,  and  evidently  bent  on  having  a  fight 
with  the  new  comer,  whose  does  he  no  doubt  intended,  in  true 
Oriental  fashion,  to  sweep  into  his  own  harem.  He  was 
followed,  at  a  few  yards'  distance,  by  the  rest  of  the  herd,  and 
they  all  advanced  steadily  till  within  fifty  yards  of  the  stalk- 
ing-party.  Hunt  would  have  dropped  the  buck  had  he  had  a 
fair  chance  of  shooting,  but  he  was  so  persuaded  that  he  must 
be  seen  if  he  moved,  that  he  kept  his  eye  steadily  fixed  through 
the  opening  in  the  screen,  which  was  placed  too  low  to  enable 
him  to  shoot  conveniently.  At  this  moment  a  horseman,  who 
had  been  sent  out  by  the  chief  to  inquire  after  our  welfare, 
came  up  on  a  screaming  horse,  and  the  herd  went  off  at 
speed.  Neither  of  us  being  inclined  to  go  farther,  we  mounted 
our  horses,  and  returned  to  the  camp. 

We  marched  next  morning,  and  the  chief  sent  with  us  his 
hunting  cheetahs,  with  orders  to  their  attendants  to  accompany 
us  for  several  days  on  our  journey.  The  country  was  not, 
however,  favourable,  and  antelope  were  not  seen.  We  went 
out  one  afternoon,  on  the  report  of  a  man  who  said  he  had 
seen  deer.  We  found  they  were  chinkara  ;  and  the  man  in 
charge  of  the  cheetahs  informed  us  that  these  small  deer  were 
too  active  for  this  sort  of  work.  We  therefore  left  the  leopard 
behind  some  bushes  with  our  horses,  and,  taking  his  cart,  I 
went  forward  with  my  rifle.  The  deer  allowed  us  to  approach 
within  eighty  yards,  and  I  dropped  the  buck  with  the  first 
barrel.  The  doe  darted  off,  and  then  stood  looking  at  us. 
She  was  at  least  150  yards  off,  and  looked  very  small,  but  I 
bagged  her  with  the  second  shot,  greatly  to  the  astonishment 
of  the  cartman.  We  then  returned  to  the  cheetah.  Farther 
on  we  came  on  some  more  chinkara,  and,  at  my  request,  the 

N 


178  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

cheetah  was  slipped.  We  moved  on  quietly  with  the  cart, 
and  had  a  splendid  opportunity  of  observing  the  leopard 
approach  his  game.  Crawling  like  a  snake  over  bare  ground, 
and  taking  advantage  of  the  smallest  shrubs  and  tufts  of 
grass,  he  crept  forward.  But  the  deer  were  in  the  middle  of 
a  bare  field,  and  when  the  cheetah  did  make  his  rush,  they 
saw  him  at  once,  and  fled  with  amazing  swiftness.  No  capture 
was  effected,  and  we  returned  to  the  tents. 

Our  journey  ings  took  us  through  Hameerpoor  to  Cawn- 
pore  and  Lucknow,  and  we  rejoined  our  own  camp  in  Bun- 
delcund,  passing  through  Oorae.  Here  we  were  entertained 
very  hospitably  by  two  officers,  who  were  on  detachment 
duty.  Food  was  scarce,  and  they  trusted  a  good  deal  to  their 
guns  for  provisions.  It  was  then  the  cold  season,  and  a  large 
pot  was  kept  constantly  on  the  fire  in  the  sitting-room,  and 
into  this  all  manner  of  eatables  were  thrust  promiscuously, 
— hens,  hares,  venison,  ducks,  quails,  potatoes,  turnips,  sauces 
of  sorts,  etc.  etc.  The  mess  was,  however,  excellent,  and  there 
was  always  a  pleasing  uncertainty  as  to  the  nature  of  the 
food  which  the  spoon  would  fish  up.  We  were  a  merry  party 
of  four,  but  a  few  months  later  I  was  the  only  one  left  to 
tell  the  tale.  Two  fell  in  the  massacre  at  Cawnpore,  and 
Hunt,  with  another  officer,  was  shot  by  the  mutineer  cavalry 
of  the  Mehidpore  Contingent  at  Mulharghur. 

Our  return  march  was  via  Agra  and  Gwalior  to  Indore. 
We  moved  too  fast  to  allow  of  any  chance  of  large  game.  At 
Kolarus  we  were  taken  out  by  some  of  the  people  of  the  place, 
but  the  jungles  were  green  and  very  extensive,  and  we  saw 
that  the  whole  thing  was  absurd.  Late  in  the  afternoon,  as 
we  were  returning  home  on  our  elephants,  we  saw  several 
nylghae  on  a  hill  above  us.  They  were  moving  among  thick 
bushes,  and  more  from  a  wish  to  empty  my  rifle  than  from 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         179 

any  hope  of  killing,  I  fired.  The  elephant  had  been  by  no 
means  steady,  and  the  bull  at  which  I  aimed  was  moving, 
but  I  heard  the  shot  strike  with  a  loud  crack,  and  I  ob- 
served a  commotion  among  the  bushes  on  the  hill-side.  Some 
of  our  people  called  out  that  the  bull  was  shot,  so,  dismount- 
ing from  the  elephants,  we  went  up  the  hill,  which  was  very 
rough  and  stony,  and  covered  with  thick  corinda  jungle. 
Forcing  our  way  through  this,  we  found  the  bull,  who  had  been 
shot  through  both  hind  legs,  just  below  the  hocks.  The  poor 
brute  floundered  violently,  and  I  would  have  finished  him 
with  another  shot,  but  for  my  gun-bearer,  who  was  anxious  to 
secure  the  skin  for  a  shield,  so  the  poor  bull  was  knocked  on 
the  head  with  an  axe. 

As  we  approached  the  staging  bungalow  at  Dewas,  we 
observed  from  the  carriage  two  fine  bustard  feeding  near  the 
road.  During  our  march  I  had  made  several  unsuccessful 
attempts  to  obtain  a  shot  at  bustard,  but  these  seemed  tamer  • 
so,  leaving  one  of  the  grooms  behind  to  watch  them,  we  drove 
on  to  the  bungalow,  where  I  got  my  gun,  and  loading  with 
BB,  I  mounted  on  a  small  pony  and  cantered  back. 

The  birds  were  feeding,  and  took  but  little  notice  of  me  so 
long  as  I  remained  on  the  road,  but  as  soon  as  they  saw  me 
move  towards  them,  they  rose  and  took  a  short  flight.  I 
followed  slowly,  and  this  time  I  managed  to  approach  some- 
what nearer ;  but  as  I  was  about  to  check  my  pony,  they 
again  rose.  Quitting  the  reins,  I  fired  at  the  largest,  and  he 
dropped  his  legs,  but  recovering  himself,  he  flew  on.  I  saw 
he  was  hard  hit,  and  I  kept  my  eye  on  him,  and  after  going 
about  a  mile,  I  saw  him  fall.  Eiding  up,  I  found  him  dead. 
He  was  a  very  fine  bird,  and  weighed  twenty-two  pounds. 
Some  of  the  feathers  of  the  bustard  are  invaluable  to  the 
salmon-fisher. 


CHAPTER   XT. 

Origin  of  the  Bheels  :  their  Character — Bear  marked  down — Valley  of  Nimar 
— Bear  bolted  and  slain — Mowa  Trees — Sindwah — Mekranee  joins  me — 
March  to  Teekree — Hunt  in  the  Boorar  River — Tigress  slain — Filtered 
Water — Runaway  Elephant — March  to  Khull — Meet  Hunt — Move  to 
Dhurrempooree — Panther  smoked  out  and  shot — March  to  the  Hills — 
Encounter  with  Bear — Bappoo  to  the  Rescue — Close  shooting — Absence 
of  Pain  in  Fresh  Wounds — Habits  of  Bears  and  Young — Move  to  Mund- 
laisir — Cold-water  Dressing — Recovery. 

IN  the  spring  of  1857  I  entered  on  the  duties  of  an  appoint- 
ment under  the  agent  to  the  Viceroy  in  Central  India.  This 
entailed  the  political  supervision  of  the  country  bordering  on 
the  Nerbudda  river,  lying  between  Western  Malwa  and  the 
district  of  Khandesh  in  the  Bombay  Presidency.  My  head- 
quarters were  at  Maunpore,  fourteen  miles  south  of  the  Mhow 
cantonment.  The  northern  part  of  my  charge  lay  in  the 
Vindyah  mountains,  the  southern  was  covered  with  heavy 
jungle,  terminating  in  the  Satpoora  hills,  and  between  the  two 
ranges,  1600  feet  below  the  crest  of  the  Vindyah,  flowed  the 
broad  stream  of  the  Nerbudda. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  district  was  thinly  peopled  by 
Bheels.  Of  these  men,  Sir  John  Malcolm,  in  his  Memoir  of 
Central  India,  writes,  "  The  Bheels  are  quite  a  distinct  race 
from  any  other  Indian  tribe,  yet  few  among  the  latter  have 
higher  pretensions  to  antiquity."  According  to  popular  tradi- 
tion, the  god  "  Mahadeo,  when  sick  and  unhappy,  was  one 
day  reclining  in  a  shady  forest,  when  a  beautiful  woman  ap- 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         181 

peared,  the  first  sight  of  whom  effected  a  complete  cure  of  all 
his  complaints." 

"  An  intercourse  between  the  god  and  the  strange  female 
was  established,  the  result  of  which  was  many  children  ;  one 
of  whom,  who  was  from  infancy  alike  distinguished  by  his 
ugliness  and  vice,  slew  the  favourite  bull  of  Mahadeo,  for 
which  crime  he  was  expelled  to  the  woods  and  mountains ;  and 
his  descendants  have  ever  since  been  stigmatised  with  the 
names  of  Bheel  and  Nishada,  terms  that  denote  outcasts. 
.  .  .  The  cultivating  Bheels  are  those  who  have  continued 
in  their  peaceable  occupations  after  their  leaders  were  de- 
stroyed or  driven  by  invaders  to  become  desperate  freebooters  ; 
and  the  wild  or  mountain  Bheel  comprises  all  that  part  of  the 
tribe,  who,  preferring  savage  freedom  and  indolence  to  sub- 
mission and  industry,  have  continued  to  subsist  by  plunder." 

The  above  was  written  about  thirty-five  years  previous  to 
my  acquaintance  with  the  Bheel  tribes.  Since  that  period 
they  are  much  settled  down,  but  the  presence  of  a  British 
officer  among  them  has  always  been  found  requisite  for  the 
general  peace  of  the  country.  I  was  fortunate  in  being 
selected  for  this  duty,  as  the  wandering  life  among  the  hill- 
men,  to  which  it  led,  gave  me  many  opportunities  for  the 
pursuit  of  wild  animals  ;  and  while  engaged  in  the  chase, 
supported  by  the  valuable  assistance  of  the  Bheels,  I  was 
enabled  to  become  personally  acquainted  with  many  of 
them,  and  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  their  habits  which  often 
proved  of  service  in  my  official  duties.  By  the  more  civilised 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  the  Bheels  are  dreaded  as  robbers 
and  freebooters,  and  to  a  certain  extent  some  of  them  do  prey 
on  society ;  but  during  my  wanderings  among  them,  which 
extended  over  nine  years,  I  never  lost  the  value  of  one  rupee  ; 
whereas,  had  I  attempted  to  pass  a  night  encamped  in  the 


182  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

neighbourhood  of  a  town  or  village  in  the  plains  of  Malwa, 
without  a  watchful  guard,  I  should  probably,  on  waking  in 
the  morning,  have  found  my  tent  stripped. 

In  the  month  of  April  I  had  arranged  to  meet  Hunt,  who 
had  obtained  two  months'  leave  of  absence  from  his  regiment, 
and  we  trysted  at  the  point  where  the  Bombay  and  Agra  road 
crosses  the  Nerbudda  at  Khull.  But  I  had  previously  to 
inspect  the  road  for  fifty  miles  to  the  southward,  and  on  my 
way  I  diverged  to  the  right  and  left,  gathering  information 
as  to  the  sporting  resources  of  the  country.  I  left  the  main 
road  at  Goojree,  two  marches  south  of  the  Mhow  cantonment, 
and,  after  moving  about  seven  miles  east,  halted  at  the  foot 
of  the  Vindyah  range.  My  men  had  preceded  me,  and 
reported  having  seen  both  bears  and  sambur,  but  they  had 
been  unable  to  mark  anything  down. 

Immediately  in  rear  of  our  camp  rose  a  steep  hill  of  con- 
siderable height,  and  on  its  face,  at  various  altitudes,  were 
lines  of  bare  rock  and  huge  stones.  The  hill  was  covered 
with  trees  and  scrub,  and  in  parts  the  rank  dry  grass  had 
escaped  the  annual  jungle  conflagration.  About  noon  I  was 
called  out  by  one  of  my  men,  who,  pointing  to  the  black 
rocks  on  the  hill-side,  informed  me  that  he  had  marked  a 
bear  among  them,  and  had  left  his  comrade  on  the  watch, 
while  he  came  into  camp  with  the  intelligence.  The  April 
sun  was  blazing  down  on  the  encampment,  which  was  shut 
in  by  hills  throwing  off  an  intense  heat ;  and  though  I  had 
small  hopes  of  dislodging  the  bear  from  its  cave,  I  thought 
that  on  the  hill-side  the  air  might  be  cooler,  and  accordingly 
started  oft'  at  once  with  my  men. 

Toiling  up  the  abrupt  face  of  the  hill,  I  found  myself 
compelled  to  halt  on  more  than  one  occasion,  for  the  sun  was 
powerful  and  oppressive.  I  suppose  we  had  ascended  700 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         183 

or  800  feet  when  our  guide  halted,  and  his  friend,  who  had 
been  perched  on  a  tree,  came  down  and  informed  us  that  the 
bear  had  not  moved  out  from  the  masses  of  rocks  into  which 
they  had  marked  him.  I  carried  a  12-bore  rifle,  and  another 
of  the  same  calibre  was  carried  by  my  henchman  Bappoo, 
who  had  accompanied  me  from  Dholka  in  Guzerat.  We  ad- 
vanced cautiously,  peering  over  the  rocks  ;  but  we  found  that 
they  merely  concealed  the  entrances  to  a  complete  gallery  of 
bear-holes.  Into  some  of  these  we  hurled  stones,  and  vainly 
endeavoured  by  shouts  to  induce  the  bear  to  show.  Shots 
were  even  fired  into  the  cave,  but  with  no  result,  and  at 
length,  supposing  that  the  bear  must  have  moved  unobserved 
by  the  watcher,  or  had  made  up  his  mind  not  to  come  out,  I 
laid  aside  my  rifle,  and  sitting  down  with  my  men  in  the 
entrance  of  a  cave,  we  lit  our  pipes  and  enjoyed  the  view. 

The  prospect  was  grand  and  extensive,  though  the  heated 
air  rendered  the  distance  rather  hazy.  We  were  seated  on  a 
spur  of  the  Vindyah  range  of  mountains,  and  the  ground  beneath 
us  seemed  to  be  nearly  level,  stretching  away  across  the  pro- 
vince of  Nimar  to  the  Nerbudda,  which,  from  our  exalted 
position,  we  could  see  winding  through  the  valley  like  a  silver 
serpent,  as  it  crossed  from  left  to  right  about  twelve  miles  in  our 
front.  But  we  knew  that  our  bird's-eye  view  deceived  us,  for 
the  apparently  level  jungles  below  us  were  deeply  cut  up  by 
rocky  ravines,  filled  in  parts  with  high  grass  and  thorny 
bushes  of  the  "bair,"  whose  small  round  berries  form  a  favourite 
food  of  their  ursine  namesakes.  The  trees  were  mostly 
salur,  of  moderate  growth,  devoid  of  leaves.  The  wood  of  this 
tree  is  soft  and  worthless,  and  a  resinous  gum  of  no  known 
value  exudes  freely  from  its  yellow  bark. 

Here  and  there  small  clearings  might  be  detected,  and  an 
occasional  Bheel  hut ;  and,  in  the  more  immediate  vicinity  of 


184  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

the  river,  were  considerable  patches  of  cultivation.  On  the 
north  bank  of  the  river  could  be  seen  the  town  of  Mheysur, 
and  four  miles  higher  up,  the  small  but  pretty  British 
station  of  Mundlaisir,  the  head-quarters  of  the  political  agent 
in  Nimar.  Beyond  the  Nerbudda,  the  country  presented 
features  similar  to  those  on  the  north  side ;  jungle  and  cul- 
tivation intermixed,  the  more  distant  portions  of  the  land- 
scape increasing  in  elevation,  till  the  horizon  was  bounded 
by  the  portion  of  the  Sathpoora  mountains  lying  between 
Sindwah  and  the  hill-fortress  of  Asseerghur. 

As  we  sat,  Bappoo  and  another  man  had  moved  along  the 
face  of  the  hill  some  thirty  yards,  and  were  examining  a 
cave  when  a  bear  rushed  out  on  them.  Bappoo  fired,  but 
missed,  and  the  bear,  greatly  alarmed,  went  straight  down  the 
hill.  Snatching  up  my  rifle,  I  sprang  forward  and  got  a  snap- 
shot at  the  rapidly-descending  brute.  My  bullet  struck  him 
somewhere  behind  the  shoulder,  killing  him  dead,  and  he  fell 
over  an  almost  perpendicular  rock,  twenty  feet  in  height. 
Bappoo  had  a  narrow  escape,  as,  had  the  bear  grappled  with 
him,  they  must  have  gone  down  together,  and  he  could  hardly 
have  escaped  with  his  life.  We  had  some  difficulty  in  taking 
the  beast  up  from  the  mass  of  rocks  among  which  he  had 
fallen,  but  the  Bheels  cut  two  stout  poles,  to  which  he  was 
slung,  and  so  carried  to  the  tent,  where  we  proceeded  to  skin 
him  and  boil  down  the  fat. 

I  went  out  in  the  afternoon  in  quest  of  sambur,  but  saw 
none.  The  berry-like  flower  of  the  mowa  trees  was  falling, 
and  the  wives  and  children  of  the  Bheels  were  busy  picking  it 
up  from  the  ground.  Their  presence  in  all  directions  through 
the  forest  was  not  conducive  to  sport. 

The  produce  of  the  mowa  forms  an  important  item  of 
Bheel  domestic  economy.  The  tree  is  one  of  the  handsomest 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         185 

in  this  part  of  India.  It  is  of  large  size,  with  heavy  rich  foli- 
age of  a  dark  green.  During  March  and  April  few  leaves 
remain,  but  at  this  season  the  flower,  which  is  edible,  ripens 
and  falls.  These  flowers  are  thick  and  fleshy  in  substance, 
pale  yellow  in  colour,  with  a  sweet  sickly  taste,  and  of  the 
form  of  a  large  hollow  grape.  They  grow  in  bunches  of  from 
four  to  ten  or  more,  at  the  extremities  of  the  branches  ;  each 
flower  being  supported  by  a  long  spike  running  through  it. 
As  they  mature,  they  fall  to  the  ground ;  and  the  entire  Bheel 
population  is  employed  in  gathering  them.  To  facilitate  this 
operation,  all  dead  leaves  round  the  bases  of  the  trees  are 
burnt,  and  the  surface  of  the  ground  swept  clean. 

The  flowers  fall  night  and  day,  and  are  collected  in  baskets, 
and  afterwards  dried  in  the  sun.  The  mowa  is  a  favourite  food 
of  both  bears  and  sambur.  They  travel  long  distances  in  quest 
of  it,  and  when  feeding  under  the  trees  are  often  shot  from 
hiding  places  by  the  Bheels.  The  privilege  of  gathering  the 
mowa  is  jealously  guarded  by  the  people  of  each  district ;  but 
the  boundaries  of  townships  being  only  laid  down  by  tradition, 
disputes  frequently  arise,  and  these  occasionally  end  in  blood- 
shed. The  flowers,  when  dried,  are  cooked  in  various  ways 
and  eaten.  A  potent  liquor  is  also  distilled  from  them. 
Large  quantities  are  collected  by  traders  from  the  towns,  and 
sold  to  distillers  throughout  the  country.  The  flower  is  suc- 
ceeded by  a  fruit  the  size  of  a  small  apple,  from  which  oil  is 
extracted. 

My  time  being  limited,  I  gave  the  order  to  move  camp  to 
the  Nerbudda,  and  thence  to  the  fort  of  Sindwah,  ten  miles 
from  the  frontier  of  the  Bombay  Presidency,  which  I  reached 
in  four  marches.  At  Sindwah  I  fell  in  with  a  Mekranee, 
who  was,  or  had  been,  in  the  employ  of  the  guardian  of  the 
fort.  This  man  had,  on  a  former  occasion,  joined  one  of  my 


186  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

friends  who  was  marching  up  the  country,  and  had  assisted 
at  the  death  of  a  tiger  in  the  bed  of  the  Boorar  river,  six  miles 
south  of  Khull.  The  Mekranees  are  inhabitants  of  the  country 
to  the  west  of  Scinde,  whence  a  number  of  the  male  popula- 
tion migrate  into  Central  India  and  the  northern  part  of  the 
Bombay  Presidency  in  quest  of  employment  in  a  semi-military 
capacity.  They  are  free  lances,  taking  service  with  any  one 
who  will  pay  them.  Many  of  them  are  expert  marksmen, 
and  skilled  in  the  use  of  both  sword  and  matchlock.  Not- 
withstanding the  services  which  he  had  rendered  to  my  friend, 
I  did  not  think  that  the  gentleman  before  me  would  prove 
a  very  valuable  addition  to  my  sporting  staff.  He  was  evi- 
dently a  great  dandy,  and  appeared  before  me  wearing  a 
pair  of  very  high-heeled  red  slippers,  which  were  no  doubt 
greatly  admired  by  his  lady  friends,  but  did  not  strike  me 
as  likely  to  be  of  service  for  quick  work  over  a  rough  country. 
However,  he  said  he  could  show  me  a  tiger,  and  he  kept  his 
word. 

I  was  on  my  return  march  to  the  Nerbudda,  and  arranged 
for  a  halt  at  Tekree  on  the  Boorar  river,  where  the  Mekranee 
had  preceded  us.  I  had  with  me  a  very  good  little  Bheel 
named  Himta,  whom  I  had  brought  with  me  from  Maunpore. 
He  also  went  forward  to  examine  the  bed  of  the  river.  On 
my  arrival  they  met  me,  saying,  that  assuredly  there  was  a 
tiger  in  the  neighbourhood ;  they  had  seen  his  tracks  in  several 
places,  but  had  not  succeeded  in  marking  him  down.  About 
10  A.M.  I  mounted  an  elephant,  and  we  moved  up  the  course 
of  the  stream.  After  going  two  miles,  we  came  on  some  close 
patches  of  cypress  and  willow  growing  in  the  bed  of  the  river, 
which  at  this  season  was  dry,  except  in  the  deeper  pools.  On 
the  banks  were  thick  bushes,  laced  in  many  parts  with  masses 
of  creeping  plants,  through  which  an  elephant  could  not  have 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         187 

forced  his  way.  On  either  side  the  jungle  extended  over 
wooded  hills.  Altogether  our  chance  of  finding  the  tiger  did 
not  seem  good,  for  the  main  river  was  joined  on  both  sides  by 
numerous  deep  and  narrow  ravines,  in  any  one  of  which  the 
beast  might  have  lain  up.  In  addition  to  the  elephant  which 
I  rode,  I  was  accompanied  by  another,  of  whose  staunchness 
his  driver  was  very  doubtful. 

Keeping  all  men  on  foot  at  a  safe  distance,  I  took  Himta 
in  the  back  seat  of  my  howdah,  and,  directing  the  driver  of 
the  other  elephant  to  keep  abreast,  we  moved  up  the  river, 
carefully  beating  out  each  patch  of  cypress.  In  this  manner 
I  worked  for  some  time.  Occasionally  a  hyaena  would  shuffle 
off  with  his  back  arched  and  ears  erect ;  and  jackals  would 
trot  out  into  the  bright  sunlight,  looking  inquisitively  at  the 
advancing  elephants  ;  but  no  sign  of  a  tiger  did  we  see.  At 
length  we  came  on  a  large  herd  of  goats,  some  of  which  were 
feeding  close  to  the  river-bank,  while  others  were  lying  down 
on  the  moist  sand.  We  were  about  to  leave  a  bed  of  cypress, 
which  we  had  beaten  out,  and  my  elephant  was  standing  on 
a  slight  hillock,  when  Himta  caught  hold  of  my  arm,  and 
pointed  down  into  the  covert,  almost  under  the  feet  of  the 
elephant.  The  cypress  was  thick,  and  about  four  feet  in 
height ;  but,  looking  down,  I  could  see  the  striped  back  of 
the  tiger,  who  lay  perfectly  motionless  notwithstanding  our 
proximity. 

So  dense  was  the  covert  that  I  was  unable  to  distinguish 
head  from  tail ;  but  I  knew  that  a  two-ounce  ball,  either 
down  between  the  shoulders,  or  through  the  loins,  must  prove 
an  effectual  stopper  to  any  beast,  so,  quietly  raising  my  rifle, 
I  fired.  With  a  savage  growl  a  fine  tigress  scrambled  out 
and  vainly  endeavoured  to  get  away.  Her  hind-quarters 
were  quite  disabled,  and  I  had  no  difficulty  in  overtaking  and 


188  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

giving  her  the  coup  de  grace.  From  this  adventure  I  again 
learnt  the  great  importance  of  thoroughly  beating  any  covert 
in  which  a  tiger  or  panther  was  supposed  to  be  lying  up,  and 
of  never  relaxing  my  attention  till  the  last  corner  had  been 
carefully  beaten  out.  We  supposed  that  this  tigress,  when 
disturbed  by  us,  was  probably  intent  on  watching  the  herd  of 
goats  ;  but  whatever  her  intentions  towards  them,  we  had,  at 
least,  earned  the  gratitude  of  the  cowherds  of  the  district. 

I  was  glad  to  make  for  some  shady  trees  overhanging  the 
river,  by  the  side  of  a  long  pool,  where  I  dismounted,  and  sat 
down  on  the  sand,  while  the  mahouts  removed  to  a  short 
distance,  and  stood  with  their  elephants  in  the  deeper  water. 
Meanwhile  my  men  busied  themselves  scooping  out  wells  in 
the  sand,  near  the  water's  edge,  for  the  natives  of  India  are 
fully  aware  of  the  value  of  filtered  water,  and  never  drink 
direct  from  the  pools  in  the  jungle.  Scraping  out  the  sand 
and  gravel  with  their  hands  till  they  got  below  the  water- 
level,  they  dexterously  splashed  out  the  mud  from  the  holes, 
and  then,  having  allowed  them  to  fill  gradually  with  clear 
water,  the  men  sat  round  and  drank  freely,  using  the  broad 
leaves  of  the  kakra  tree  as  drinking-cups.  The  pipe  was  then 
passed  from  hand  to  hand,  each  man  taking  about  three  draws, 
and  filling  his  whole  body  with  smoke  in  the  operation. 

I  was  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  my  own  pipe,  when  one  of 
the  elephants,  uttering  a  fearful  shriek,  rushed  from  the  pool, 
and  narrowly  avoided  trampling  on  some  of  the  men.  A  red 
bullock  had  been  crossing  the  sandy  bed  of  the  river,  some 
300  yards  above  us,  and,  I  suppose,  was  taken  by  the  elephant 
(who  had  been  rather  excited  by  the  morning's  work)  to  be 
a  tiger  of  gigantic  proportions.  In  vain  the  driver  shouted 
and  held  on  to  his  ear  with  the  boathook-like  goad.  The 
frantic  brute  rushed  out  of  the  river  and  up  the  bank.  For- 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         189 

tunately  lie  did  not  encounter  any  large  trees,  and  after  a  run 
of  half-a-mile  he  was  stopped;  but  not  before  some  guns 
which  had  been  left  in  the  howdah  had  been  considerably 
knocked  about.  He  continued  so  restless  that  we  did  not 
deem  it  advisable  to  use  him  again  that  day,  so  sent  him  off 
to  the  camp.  In  the  afternoon  we  hunted  farther  up  the 
river,  but  saw  nothing. 

Next  morning  the  Mekranee  returned  to  Sindwah,  and  I 
moved  to  Khull,  where  I  met  my  friend  Hunt/  In  the  fore- 
noon we  moved  six  miles  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Nerbudda 
to  Dhurrempooree.  Here  our  men  examined  the  ravines 
descending  to  the  river,  but  found  only  the  tracks  of  a  panther, 
and  we  soon  knew  that  we  should  do  well  to  move  camp 
without  delay,  as  there  appeared  little  prospect  of  sport  there. 
About  mid-day,  however,  one  of  my  men  came  in,  having  found 
the  fresh  track  of  a  panther  going  into  a  porcupine's  hole,  in 
a  small  open  ravine  leading  down  to  the  river.  Having  no 
better  work  on  hand,  we  went  to  the  spot,  and  finding  several 
openings  to  the  burrow,  we  filled  one  with  dry  grass,  mixed 
with  green  leaves,  and  setting  fire  thereto,  we  retired  to  the 
opposite  side  to  watch  the  effect.  Before  many  minutes  a 
panther  bolted,  and  was  making  off  down  the  ravine,  when  we 
rolled  him  over. 

Next  morning  we  moved  ten  miles  to  the  north,  and  en- 
camped near  the  foot  of  the  hills,  at  a  spot  indicated  by  Himta 
as  being  a  favourite  resort  of  bears.  He  had  preceded  us  with 
several  Bheels  of  the  district,  and  was  absent  when  we  reached 
the  ground.  Late  in  the  day  he  sent  a  man  into  camp  with 
intelligence  of  two  bears  marked  down  at  a  spot  about  three 
miles  from  the  tents. 

We  were  soon  on  the  road,  and  were  led  by  our  guide  to 
a  hill-face,  sloping  down  towards  a  small  river.  Here  we 


190  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

found  Himta  and  his  men  seated  in  trees  commanding  a  view 
of  some  long  dry  grass  on  the  banks  of  a  small  watercourse 
running  down  the  hill-side.  Among  the  grass  grew  trees  and 
bushes.  The  markers  were  unable  to  point  out  the  precise 
spot  where  the  bears  had  lain  up,  and  it  was  therefore  settled 
that  Hunt  should  take  up  a  position  on  the  face  of  the  hill 
above  them,  while  I  with  three  men  advanced  into  the  grass. 
We  were  to  proceed  quietly,  and,  if  possible,  get  a  shot  at 
them  before  they  moved.  If  we  startled  them  by  our  approach, 
we  calculated  on  my  driving  them  up  to  Hunt,  who  went  off 
to  his  post,  accompanied  by  his  two  gun-bearers.  Having 
allowed  sufficient  time  to  elapse,  I  advanced  into  the  grass 
with  great  caution,  closely  followed  by  Bappoo,  Buggoo  Sing, 
jemadar  of  police,  and  Himta,  the  two  former  carrying  my 
spare  rifles. 

As  I  was  carefully  endeavouring  to  avoid  treading  on  the 
dry  sticks,  I  came  on  a  covey  of  the  small  bustard  quail. 
These  birds  are  generally  found  in  the  tree  jungles,  and  sit  in 
the  grass  closely  packed  together,  rising  simultaneously,  with 
much  noise,  when  disturbed.  I  had  almost  stepped  on  them 
before  they  rose  ;  and  as  they  flew  up  into  my  face  I  was  a 
good  deal  startled.  I  had  hardly  settled  my  nerves  when  I 
saw  the  male  bear  about  thirty  paces  in  front  of  me,  making 
off  at  speed  towards  the  right.  I  fired  at  once,  but  the  smoke 
came  back  on  me ;  and,  as  it  cleared  away,  I  saw  the  other 
bear,  not  ten  yards  off,  going  away  after  the  first.  I  let  drive 
with  the  second  barrel,  on  which  she  wheeled  round  and  came 
straight  at  me,  grunting  viciously.  I  had  no  time  to  turn  to  get 
a  second  rifle  before  she  was  on  me.  Eising  on  her  hind  legs, 
she  attempted  to  seize  me  by  the  throat  in  her  teeth  ;  and,  as 
I  fended  her  off  with  my  left  arm,  she  got  it  in  her  mouth,  and 
crunched  it  up  like  a  cucumber.  Meanwhile,  she  was  not 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         191 

idle  with  her  formidable  claws,  with  which  she  tore  open  my 
clothes,  and  gave  me  an  ugly  score  across  the  ribs.  At  that 
moment  Bappoo  rushed  in  and  shot  her  through  the  body. 
She  dropped  on  all  fours,  but  retained  her  hold  on  my  hand 
with  her  teeth,  tugging  furiously  to  get  me  down.  As  we 
struggled,  a  young  bear  which  she  carried  on  her  back,  and 
which  had  been  struck  by  my  shot,  fell  dead  at  our  feet ;  and 
the  old  lady's  temper  was  evidently  not  improved  by  the 
bereavement. 

Bappoo  behaved  admirably.  He  again  rushed  to  the  front, 
and,  raising  his  rifle,  watched  his  opportunity  for  another 
shot.  I  called  to  him  not  to  blow  my  hand  off ;  and  at  that 
instant  he  fired,  and  the  bear  relaxed  her  grip  and  fell  back 
with  a  ragged  hole  through  her  head.  All  this  was  the  work 
of  a  few  seconds. 

I  had  now  time  to  examine  my  hurts.  My  left  wrist  was 
nearly  bitten  through,  both  bones  were  smashed,  and  the  hand 
twisted  round.  I  was,  moreover,  cut  across  the  ribs  by  the 
bear's  claws.  Holding  up  the  wounded  limb  in  a  hanging 
position,  I  turned  the  hand  round  into  its  place,  and  supported 
it  on  the  other  arm,  till  Hunt,  who  had  now  come  up,  had 
cut  some  slips  of  bamboo,  and  bound  the  whole  up  with  a 
turban.  I  was  astonished  at  the  utter  absence  of  pain,  for 
the  wound  was  gruesome  to  behold. 

The  rage  of  the  bear  had  evidently  been  kindled  by  her 
offspring  being  wounded.  They  generally  bring  out  their 
young  in  some  cave,  or  mass  of  rocks  ;  and,  as  soon  as  they 
can  run  about,  the  young  bears  travel  over  the  country  on  the 
backs  of  their  mothers,  burying  themselves  in  the  long  hair, 
to  which  they  cling  with  great  tenacity,  holding  their  position 
at  any  speed,  and  over  the  roughest  ground.  While  feeding 
or  undisturbed  they  descend  and  run  about,  scrambling  up 


192  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

again  with  great  celerity  on  the  least  alarm.  Had  I  pounded 
the  bear  on  the  head  with  my  rifle  as  she  came  on,  I  might 
have  turned  her  ;  but  the  rifle  was  a  new  Sam.  Smith,  and  I 
suppose  I  was  afraid  of  smashing  it.  I  had  reason  to  be 
thankful  to  Bappoo  for  his  cool  and  plucky  conduct,  as,  with 
her  murdered  offspring  lying  between  us,  the  bear  would  not 
have  been  easily  driven  off,  and  would  probably  have  killed 
me.  Mounting  the  elephant,  which  had  been  brought  out  with 
us,  we  went  back  to  the  tent,  and  I  remarked  to  the  jemadar 
that  I  feared  I  should  not  require  his  assistance  in  bear- 
shooting  for  some  time  to  come. 

I  had  in  my  camp  a  native  dresser  from  the  dispensary  at 
Maunpore,  and  by  him  my  wound  was  artistically  bound  up. 
Both  bones  of  the  arm  were  smashed  ;  the  ulna  was  broken 
about  one  inch  from  the  joint,  and  the  ends  protruded.  The 
radius  was  also  broken.  I  had  on  the  third  finger  of  my 
left  hand  a  ring  which  had  not  been  off  for  many  years,  and 
could  not  be  removed.  Knowing  that  my  hand  would  pro- 
bably swell  up,  I  lost  no  time  in  filing  this  off.  Meanwhile, 
food  had  been  got  ready  ;  and,  after  partaking  of  refreshment, 
I  mounted  on  a  litter,  borne  on  men's  shoulders,  and  set  off 
for  Mundlaisir,  distant  thirty  miles,  hoping  there  to  obtain 
good  surgical  treatment.  A  horseman  was  sent  off  before 
me,  with  a  note  to  Colonel  Keatinge,  the  political  agent,  ex- 
plaining matters. 

The  Bheels  turned  out  at  various  places  along  the  road, 
and  carried  me  to  Mheysur  by  daylight  next  morning. 
Thence,  Colonel  Keatinge's  riding  cart  took  me  the  remaining 
four  miles  into  Mundlaisir.  I  had  with  me  a  leathern  water- 
bag  or  "  chagul "  having  a  tin  spout,  and  with  it  I  kept  the 
wound  constantly  wet.  By  this  the  inflammation  was  com- 
pletely kept  under.  Soon  after  my  arrival  my  clothes  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         193 

cut  off,  and  I  was  sent  to  bed  by  Colonel  Keatinge,  who 
attended  to  my  wants  with  much  kindness.  Charley  Hunt, 
too,  was  in  need  of  rest,  having  ridden  beside  me  all  night. 
That  evening  Dr.  Watson  of  the  Bengal  Army  arrived  after  a 
thirty  miles'  ride  from  Mhow,  and  considerably  relieved  my 
mind  by  intimating  his  intention  of  endeavouring  to  save 
the  hand.  He  pleasantly  remarked  that  any  man  could  cut 
off  a  limb,  but  that  it  required  a  surgeon  to  save  one. 

I  received  much  attention  from  all  my  friends  at  Mundlaisir, 
and  in  about  ten  days  was  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  be 
moved  in  a  palanquin  to  Mhow,  where  I  remained  under  the 
surgical  care  and  hospitable  roof  of  Dr.  Watson.  I  have  no 
joint  in  that  wrist,  and  can  only  partially  close  my  hand,  but 
the  limb  is  serviceable  in  most  ways  ;  and  as  Watson  used  to 
remark — "  It  is  better  than  a  hook."  My  misadventure  oc- 
curred about  the  16th  of  April,  and  I  was  not  able  to  take 
the  field  again  before  the  20th  of  June. 


CHAPTEE  XII. 

Mutiny  of  the  Bengal  Army — Outbreak  at  Indore  and  Mhow — Murder  of 
Officers  at  Mhow — Signs  of  Disaffection  at  Maunpore— Retreat  to  the 
Jungles — Precautions  against  Surprise — Return  to  Maunpore — Visit  the 
Mhow  Fort — Reinforcements — Assume  Charge  of  Nimar  District — Colonel 
Keatinge,  V.C. — Panther-traps— Shaik  Munnoo— Cow  slain  by  Panther — 
Unsuccessful  Vigil — Bear-hunt — Munnoo  shoots  Hyaenas — Wolf  seen — 
Attack  of  Smallpox. 

THE  year  1857  was  a  memorable  one  in  India.  The  Bengal 
Army,  pampered,  petted,  and  badly  disciplined,  rose  in  mutiny. 
The  officers  of  the  army  were  not  to  blame.  The  system  was 
wrong.  Eegimental  officers  had  not  sufficient  power,  and  they 
lacked  support  from  the  Commander-in-Chief  and  the  Govern- 
ment. Caste,  in  the  army,  was  attended  to ;  and  seniority 
promotion  in  the  ranks  was  the  rule  of  the  service.  Indivi- 
dual merit  could  not  advance,  nor  individual  incapacity  retard, 
the  promotion  of  the  Bengal  Sepoy.  The  irregular  cavalry 
were  insufficiently  paid.  Under  these  circumstances,  it  was  not 
to  be  wondered  at  that  designing  and  discontented  men  found 
in  the  army  a  willing  tool  in  their  schemes  for  the  subver- 
sion of  the  British  power  in  India. 

The  European  force,  throughout  India,  was  also  at  this 
period  reduced  to  a  minimum,  owing  to  the  Persian  war  and 
other  circumstances.  The  army  rose  in  rebellion,  but  it  lacked 
cohesion  and  organisation.  Its  action  was  not  simultaneous, 
and  the  European  officers,  nobly  backed  by  civilians  of  all 
grades,  had  time,  in  many  instances,  for  preparations  for  the 
safety  of  themselves  and  their  families.  How  they  bore 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         195 

themselves,  both  before  and  after  the  storm  burst  on  them, 
is  now  a  matter  of  history.  I  do  not  think  the  British  name 
in  India  lost  aught  of  its  prestige  by  the  mutiny  of  1857. 

I  was  recovering  from  my  encounter  with  the  bear,  and 
about  the  middle  of  June  I  was  able  to  go  about  with  my  arm 
in  a  sling.  Meanwhile  we  daily  received  the  most  alarming 
accounts  of  the  progress  of  the  mutiny.  Station  after  station 
rose,  and  the  advance  of  the  rebellion  was  marked  by  terrible 
deeds  of  bloodshed. 

Indore,  the  head-quarters  of  the  agent  to  the  Viceroy  for 
Central  India,  is  fourteen  miles  north  of  Mhow.  It  was 
garrisoned  by  detachments  of  infantry,  cavalry,  and  artillery, 
of  the  Bhopal  Contingent ;  of  infantry  of  the  Malwa  Contingent ; 
and  of  the  Bheel  corps — all  natives  :  together  with  some  guns 
and  cavalry  in  the  service  of  the  Maharajah  Holkar,  whose 
capital  lay  about  two  miles  from  the  British  cantonment. 
The  garrison  at  Mhow  consisted  of  a  horse  battery  manned  by 
Europeans,  the  23d  Bengal  Native  Infantry,  and  a  wing  of  the 
1st  Bengal  Cavalry.  Notwithstanding  the  assurances  of  some 
officers  of  their  confidence  in  the  fidelity  of  their  men,  I 
felt,  with  many  others,  that  the  native  troops,  at  both  stations, 
were  only  waiting  their  opportunity  to  break  out.  My  trusty 
henchman,  Bappoo,  had  mingled  freely  with  the  men  in  the 
lines  at  Mhow,  and  knew  their  feelings,  and  he  warned  me  to 
be  prepared  for  the  worst. 

About  the  20th  of  June  I  was  ordered  to  proceed  down 
the  road  to  the  limit  of  my  charge,  and  make  preparations  for 
the  advance  of  a  small  column  which  was  on  its  way  up  from 
Bombay.  This  column  was,  however,  diverted,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  quelling  a  mutiny  at  Arungabad  ;  and,  after  making 
my  arrangements  at  the  Nerbudda,  I  returned  to  my  own 
house  at  Maunpore.  I  was  accompanied  by  an  officer  of  the 


196  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Thuggee  Department,  with  his  wife  and  child,  who  had  joined 
me  at  the  Nerbudda.  On  the  1st  of  July  they  wished  to  go 
into  Mhow,  and  having  sent  out  a  fresh  horse  for  their  buggy 
half-way  on  the  road,  I  saw  them  depart,  and  went  out  for 
my  usual  morning  drive. 

I  returned,  and  was  sitting  at  breakfast,  when  I  heard  the 
sound  of  heavy  guns  in  the  direction  of  Mhow.  The  firing 
proceeded  from  Indore,  fourteen  miles  beyond  Mhow,  where 
Holkar's  guns  had  opened  on  the  British  Eesidency,  raking 
with  their  fire  the  horses  of  the  Bhopal  Cavalry,  as  they  stood 
at  their  pickets,  within  a  square  of  four  detached  buildings, 
composing  the  Eesidency  stables.  The  men  of  the  Bhopal 
artillery  and  cavalry,  and  of  the  Bheel  corps,  were  not  in 
the  conspiracy,  and  were  scattered  at  the  time  throughout 
the  cantonment.  At  the  same  moment  a  ruffianly  rabble  from 
the  town  of  Indore,  ripe  for  plunder  and  bloodshed,  came  rush- 
ing into  the  cantonment,  eager  for  the  sack  of  the  treasury. 

The  European  officers  of  the  Malwa  and  Bhopal  Contin- 
gent Infantry  ran  to  their  men,  but  were  warned  off,  with 
threats  and  menaces.  The  guns  of  the  Bhopal  Contingent, 
two  in  number,  which  had  been  posted  close  to  the  Eesidency, 
replied  to  the  fire  of  the  attacking  party,  while  a  number  of 
the  Sikh  cavalry  troop  of  the  same  force,  having  succeeded 
in  cutting  away  their  horses  from  their  pickets,  rallied  round 
Colonel  Travers.  The  men  of  the  Bheel  corps  who  could  be 
got  together  were  drawn  into  the  Eesidency ;  but  these 
denizens  of  the  wilderness  seemed  more  taken  up  with  the 
survey  of  the  various  objects  of  European  art  and  luxury 
around  them,  and  the  contemplation  of  themselves  in  the  large 
mirrors,  than  with  any  thoughts  of  the  defence  of  the  place. 
Colonel  Travers,  having  got  together  some  of  his  Sikhs,  led 
a  gallant  charge  on  the  Indore  guns,  sabring  and  driving  on 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         197 

*  the  gunners  ;  but  the  infantry  who  were  in  support  opened 
fire,  and  compelled  him  to  retreat ;  and  he  and  his  men 
regained  the  shelter  of  the  Kesidency. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  outbreak,  the  Eesident,  Colonel 
Durand,  sent  off  an  express  to  Mhow,  calling  for  the  Euro- 
pean artillery.  The  battery  was  sent  off  at  once  ;  but  it  was 
met  half-way  by  a  horseman,  with  the  information  that  the 
Eesident  had  been  compelled  to  vacate  the  cantonment,  and 
had  gone,  together  with  such  officers  and  other  Europeans, 
with  their  families,  as  could  be  saved,  in  the  direction  of 
Sehore,  escorted  by  the  Bhopal  guns,  the  Sikh  cavalry,  and 
the  Bheel  corps.  The  station,  being  abandoned,  was  sacked 
and  burnt  by  the  insurgents,  who  murdered  about  twenty- 
five  European  men,  women,  and  children. 

On  receiving  this  intelligence,  Colonel  Hungerford,  who 
commanded  the  European  artillery,  at  once  returned  to  Mhow 
with  all  speed,  fearful  least  the  native  troops  should  have  taken 
advantage  of  his  absence  to  rise  in  mutiny.  The  so-called 
fort  of  Mhow  was  simply  an  enclosure  about  150  yards  square, 
and  was  used  as  a  magazine.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  loop- 
holed  wall,  ten  feet  high,  and  two  feet  in  thickness,  with 
small  bastions  at  the  four  corners,  and  was  originally,  I  be- 
lieve, built  to  repel  the  Pindarries.  Into  this  Colonel  Platt, 
the  officer  commanding,  had,  at  the  urgent  request  of  his 
officers,  allowed  all  the  European  families  to  be  collected. 
Later  on,  the  artillery  were  also  moved  into  the  fort,  but 
fearful  of  hurting  the  feelings  of  the  native  troops,  the  fort 
guard,  which  consisted  of  thirty  men  of  the  Native  Infantry, 
was  increased  to  fifty.  Thus  the  day  passed,  but  as  soon  as 
darkness  had  set  in  the  whole  of  the  native  troops  in  the 
lines  rose  in  open  mutiny.  The  guns,  loaded  with  grape,  were 
at  once  turned  on  the  native  guard  in  the  fort ;  and  they 


198  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

were  ordered  to  throw  down  their  arms.  This  they  reluc- 
tantly did,  and  subsequently  most  of  the  muskets  were  found 
to  be  loaded.  The  gunners  then  kicked  them  out  at  the  gate, 
and  they  went  off. 

Major  Harris,  who  commanded  the  cavalry,  had  gone  to 
dine  at  his  own  house  :  hearing  the  firing,  he  mounted  his  horse 
and  rode  towards  the  lines,  but  was  met  by  a  party  of  his 
own  men,  and  he  and  his  horse  were  there  and  then  shot. 
Colonel  Platt,  who  was  very  deaf,  rode  up  to  the  fort,  and 
called  out  Captain  Fagan.  This  officer,  till  within  a  few  days 
of  the  outbreak,  had  been  adjutant  of  the  infantry  regiment. 
Apparently  Platt  could  not  hear  the  firing,  but  his  trust  in 
his  men  was  great.  He  and  Captain  Fagan  went  off  to  the 
lines, — the  Colonel  confident  that  he  could  restore  order. 
They  never  returned ;  and  their  bodies  were  found  next 
morning  on  the  parade-ground,  riddled  with  bullets. 

The'  sky  now  began  to  redden  with  the  blazing  houses  of  the 
officers,  when  Hungerford,  ordering  out  two  of  his  guns  under 
Lieutenant  Mallock,  supported  by  a  few  officers  on  horseback, 
made  a  dash  down  the  central  road  of  the  cantonment.  A 
few  rounds  were  fired  into  the  lines,  which  were  instantly 
vacated  by  the  dastardly  mutineers,  who  fled  to  join  those  at 
Indore.  Having  plundered  that  station,  they  moved  on 
Gwalior,  and  it  was  said  they  formed  part  of  the  force  which 
was  afterwards  cut  up  near  Agra  by  Colonel  Greathed. 

While  these  events  were  taking  place  I  was  in  my  house 
at  Maunpore,  where  I  had  hastily  got  together  all  the  men  I 
could  muster.  What  with  my  own  guard  of  eighteen  men  of 
the  Gwalior  Contingent,  road  and  hill  police,  and  about  twenty- 
five  men  of  the  Thuggee  Department,  left  with  me  by  my 
friend  in  the  morning,  I  had  about  one  hundred  men.  Hol- 
kar's  agent,  who  was  attached  to  my  office,  sent  off  several 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  199 

horsemen  during  the  day  towards  Mhow,  to  ascertain  what 
was  going  on,  but  none  of  them  came  back,  probably  find- 
ing more  congenial  employment  at  Indore.  Towards  evening 
the  agent  himself  went  off,  and  did  not  return.  In  the  morn- 
ing I  had  heard  the  guns  at  Indore,  and  after  dark  came  the 
ominous  boom  of  those  at  Mhow. 

In  anticipation  of  the  outbreak,  Bappoo  and  Jemadar 
Buggoo  Sing  had  concerted  with  Himta  a  plan,  by  which  I 
was,  if  necessary,  to  take  shelter  with  the  Bheels  in  the 
jungles  of  the  Maunpore  district.  I  was,  however,  unwilling 
to  leave  my  house  till  I  knew  the  true  state  of  affairs.  Thus 
the  evening  passed  away.  I  sat  reading  in  a  room  in  the 
centre  of  my  house,  which  was  partially  surrounded  with  a 
wide  verandah,  where  my  men  were  collected.  About  11  P.M. 
my  treasurer's  agent  came  in  perfectly  livid  with  terror,  and 
informed  me  that  he  had  just  come  from  Mhow ;  that  Hol- 
kar  had  attacked  the  Residency  at  Indore,  having  been  joined 
by  all  the  troops  at  the  station  ;  that  Colonel  Durand  and  all 
other  Europeans  had  been  murdered  ;  and  that  at  that  moment 
Holkar  was  encamped  at  Eao,  six  miles  from  Mhow,  the  gar- 
rison of  which  had  gone  over  to  him ;  and  finally,  that  the 
officers  and  their  families  had  retired  with  the  European  artil- 
lery to  the  fort  at  Mhow,  and  were  to  be  attacked  in  the 
morning. 

This  cheerful  intelligence  created  a  great  stir  among  my 
men,  and  Buggoo  Sing  implored  me  to  leave  the  house,  as  he 
knew  that  many  of  the  men,  especially  the  Contigent  Sepoys, 
were  not  to  be  trusted.  He  added  that  he  had  seen  some  of 
them  stealthily  loading  their  muskets,  and  that  any  one  of 
them  could  easily  take  a  pot-shot  at  me  as  I  sat.  Acting  on 
his  advice,  I  called  in  about  ten  men  on  whom  I  placed  most 
confidence,  and  made  over  to  them  my  own  guns  and  those 


200  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  my  friend.  At  the  same  time  I  sent  round  to  the  stable 
for  my  best  horse.  I  then  went  out  among  the  men,  and 
informed  them  that  it  was  requisite  that  I  should  make 
arrangements  for  guarding  the  hill-passes,  as,  owing  to  the 
disturbances  in  the  cantonment,  disorderly  persons  would  be 
abroad.  The  corporal  on  guard  over  the  house  was  directed 
to  keep  order,  and  all  were  told  to  go  to  sleep  quietly,  and 
that  they  would  receive  further  orders  in  the  morning.  Just 
then  my  horse  was  brought  round,  and  I  mounted  and  rode  off 
with  my  small  band.  I  have  a  vivid  recollection  now  of  an 
uneasy  feeling  of  expectation  of  being  shot  in  the  back  as 
we  left  the  door ;  but  no  hand  was  raised,  and  I  moved  out 
into  the  darkness  with  a  sense  of  great  relief. 

We  left  the  main  road,  and,  taking  a  jungle  path,  proceeded 
about  a  mile  and  a  half,  when  we  arrived  at  the  Ajnaar  river. 
Here  the  banks  were  precipitous,  and  it  would  have  been 
dangerous  to  attempt  to  take  a  horse  down  the  footpath  in  the 
dark.  We  therefore  halted,  tied  up  the  horse,  and  having 
posted  sentries,  lay  down  till  morning.  When  the  dawn 
broke,  we  descended  into  the  gorge,  and  took  up  our  quarters 
for  the  day  in  a  cave,  whence  I  sent  a  man  back  to  the  house 
for  one  of  my  servants  and  a  supply  of  food,  brandy,  etc.  I 
was  here  joined  and  cordially  welcomed  by  a  number  of  the 
Bheels  of  the  district,  headed  by  Himta  and  a  man  named 
Oonkar,  who  assured  me  that  they  could  give  me  safe  pro- 
tection for  six  or  twelve  months  if  necessary.  In  the  evening 
we  crossed  the  river,  and  went  up  into  the  mountain  of  Shez- 
gurh,  where  we  encamped  in  the  jungle ;  the  Bheels  leaving 
some  of  their  men  with  us  to  mount  guard  during  the  night. 
These  men  quite  seemed  to  consider  themselves  answerable 
for  my  safety ;  and  that  any  disaster  occurring  to  me  while 
in  th^ir  jungles  would  be  discreditable  to  them. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         201 

I  remained  among  them  for  a  week,  during  which  time  I 
opened  communications  with  the  Mhow  garrison,  from  whom 
I  learnt  that  the  report  which  I  had  received  regarding  the 
hostility  of  the  Maharajah  Holkar  was  incorrect,  and  that  the 
mutineers,  having  plundered  the  Indore  cantonment,  had  gone 
off  en  route  for  Delhi.  On  learning  this,  I  sent  off  a  note  by 
one  of  my  own  men  to  Holkar,  from  whom  I  received  a  very 
civil  reply,  in  which  he  expressed  his  sorrow  for  what  had 
occurred,  adding  that,  like  ourselves,  he  had  been  quite  un- 
able to  restrain  his  men.  He  concluded  with  expressions 
of  attachment  to  the  British  Government,  and  assured  me  of 
his  willingness  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  restore  order.  On 
receipt  of  this  note,  I  determined  to  return  to  my  own  house 
at  Maunpore,  and  re-open  the  postal  communications  between 
Mhow  and  the  Bombay  Presidency. 

During  the  whole  time  that  I  was  out  the  Bheels  were  per- 
petually on  the  alert,  and  in  the  daytime  they  mounted  sentry  in 
pairs, perched  on  trees  commanding  the  approaches  to  our  camp. 
These  double  sentries  were  posted  about  a  mile  apart,  and 
were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  and  swords.  On  the 
approach  of  any  one  bringing  letters  or  supplies  they  descended 
and  asked  his  business,  and  on  receiving  his  reply  one  man 
escorted  him  forward  to  the  next  post,  while  the  other  resumed 
his  position  in  the  tree.  To  guard  against  any  night  attack 
they  insisted  on  our  moving  our  camp  every  evening  after 
dark  ;  and  inasmuch  as  any  attacking  party  would  probably 
make  a  rush  at  the  camp-fire,  my  bed  was  always  made  in 
some  quiet  spot,  about  one  hundred  yards  distant,  and  a 
couple  of  Bheels  were  told  off  to  sit  by  me  while  I  slept.  We 
were  most  fortunate  in  having  cool  and  fair  weather,  only  a 
few  showers  falling  during  the  time  I  was  out,  so  that  the 
want  of  a  tent  was  little  felt  either  by  night  or  day.  The  side 


202  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  the  mountain  of  Shezghur,  on  which  we  had  taken  up  our 
position,  was  admirably  suited  for  concealment,  being  cut  off 
from  the  open  country  by  the  deep  rocky  chasm  of  the  Ajnaar 
river  to  the  north,  and  closed  in  to  the  south  by  the  moun- 
tainous range,  which  was  thinly  populated  by  Bheels  only. 
The  mountain  was  heavily  wooded,  and  intersected  by  rocky 
streams. 

Considering  it  advisable,  for  the  sake  of  moral  effect,  to 
return  to  my  house  with  some  show  of  power,  I  gave  the  word 
for  the  Bheels  to  assemble,  which  they  did  to  the  number  of 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty,  armed  with  swords,  spears,  match- 
locks, and  bows  and  arrows.  With  these,  and  my  own  men, 
who  had  been  with  me  throughout,  I  returned  to  Maunpore, 
where  I  found  the  garrison  had  weeded  itself,  the  evil-disposed 
having  gone  off  to  join  the  mutineers. 

Ten  days  after,  I  took  a  few  men  and  rode  into  Mhow, 
where  I  met  all  my  friends  in  the  fort.  They  had  not  been 
idle,  having  collected  supplies  from  the  bazaar,  and  raised  an 
outwork  in  front  of  the  gateway,  behind  which  were  mounted 
some  heavy  siege-guns.  Next  morning  I  returned  to  Maun- 
pore, accompanied  by  an  Irishman  named  Moran,  an  old 
soldier  of  the  86th,  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  a  civil 
engineer  at  Indore.  His  wife  and  master  had  both  been 
murdered  in  the  outbreak,  and  he  owed  his  own  life  to  having 
been  employed  at  the  time  at  some  distance  from  the  station. 

A  few  days  after  I  went  down  the  road  towards  Dhoolia, 
in  the  Bombay  Presidency,  which  I  reached  by  double 
marches  in  four  days,  and  where  I  met  a  detachment  of  250 
men  of  the  86th,  with  whom  I  returned  to  Mhow.  There  we 
met  Colonel  Stuart's  brigade,  which  had  arrived  via  Asseer- 
ghur.  Soon  after  I  was  ordered  to  assume  charge  of  the 
Nirnar  district  from  Colonel  Keatinge,  who  was  sent  out  as 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         203 

Political  Officer  with  the  force  under  Colonel  Stuart,  for  the 
siege  of  Dhar  and  the  relief  of  the  besieged  garrison  of  Nee- 
much.  He  subsequently  accompanied  the  force  to  Chundairee, 
in  Bundelcund,  where  he  guided  the  stormers  up  the  breach. 
In  this  affair  he  was  severely  wounded,  and  for  his  gallantry 
he  received  the  Victoria  Cross  :  no  man  ever  earned  it  better. 

My  official  duties  and  the  disturbed  state  of  the  country 
during  the  period  I  was  in  charge  of  the  Province  of  Mmar, 
did  not  allow  me  much  time  for  field  sports.  My  head- 
quarters were  at  Mundlaisir,  on  the  Nerbudda,  but  I  also  re- 
tained the  Maunpore  district.  Before  leaving  my  house  there, 
I  had  built  a  trap  for  panthers,  which  I  left  with  Buggoo  Sing, 
who  succeeded  in  catching  several.  The  trap  was  composed 
of  bars  of  stout  wood,  three  inches  apart,  in  the  form  of  a 
box,  seven  feet  in  length,  four  in  height,  and  four  in  width. 
At  one  end  was  a  compartment  to  hold  a  live  goat,  the  bars 
at  this  part  being  sufficiently  close  to  exclude  the  paw  of  a 
panther.  The  partition  bars  were  of  iron,  so  as  not  to  impede 
a  full  view  of  the  goat  from  the  door,  which  was  at  one  end, 
and  working  perpendicularly  in  a  slide.  To  the  door  was 
attached  a  trigger,  communicating  with  the  centre  of  the  trap, 
so  that  any  beast  rushing  in  at  the  goat  would  free  the  door, 
which  would  drop  down  behind  him.  I  should  not  have 
resorted  to  this  contrivance  had  I  been  able  to  shoot  these 
panthers,  but  they  lay  during  the  day-time  concealed  in  rocks 
and  caves,  and  could  not  be  got  otherwise. 

Another  trap  was  made  of  rough  jungle-wood,  tied  with 
strips  of  bark,  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  eleven  feet  in  length 
and  six  in  breadth  at  the  base.  Across  this  triangle  were 
tied  other  sticks,  and  on  these  were  laid  heavy  stones.  A 
forked  stick,  five  feet  in  height,  was  then  planted  in  the 
ground,  on  which  worked  a  twelve-foot  sapling,  one  end 


204  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  which  was  attached  to  the  apex  of  the  triangle.  By 
pressing  this  sapling  over  the  fork,  the  point  of  the  triangle 
was  raised  about  four  feet,  and  was  kept  in  that  position  by  a 
trigger  fastened  to  the  other  end  and  passing  down  through 
the  stones  to  a  slight  wooden  partition  of  split  bamboo,  be- 
hind which,  in  a  pit  sunk  in  the  ground,  the  goat  was  tied. 
The  sides  were  closed  by  thorny  bushes,  and  any  panther 
attempting  to  take  the  goat  from  the  front,  freed  the  trigger 
and  brought  down  the  triangle  with  its  weight  of  stones  on 
his  back. 

Among  the  peons  or  attendants  in  the  Mmar  office  was 
Shaik  Munnoo,  a  young  Mahomedau,  fond  of  sport,  and  a  good 
shot.  He  was  a  smart  well-made  man,  dandified  in  his  attire 
when  in  quarters,  and  generally  might  be  seen  with  his 
turban  stuck  on  one  side  of  his  head,  one  fold  being  allowed 
to  hang  over  his  neck  in  a  jaunty  style.  His  ears  were 
adorned  with  large  gold  rings.  Like  most  men  of  his  creed 
and  calling  he  was  generally  in  debt,  and  when  his  creditors 
became  too  pressing,  he  used  to  apply  for  a  few  days'  leave 
and  betake  himself  to  the  jungle,  where  he  would  sit  up  at 
night,  either  over  water  or  over  the  carcass  of  some  murdered 
cow,  and  having  slain  a  tiger  or  panther  he  would  return  to 
the  station,  claim  the  Government  reward,  pay  his  debts,  and 
renew  his  credit. 

My  presence  being  required  at  a  village  about  fourteen 
miles  off,  I  sent  Munnoo  ahead  to  endeavour  to  mark  down 
something,  and  followed  next  morning,  taking  with  me  the 
doctor  of  the  station,  who,  though  an  indifferent  shot;  was 
fond  of  sport.  On  our  arrival,  Munnoo  informed  us  that  a 
cow  had  just  been  killed  by  a  panther,  and  that  he  had 
erected  a  small  platform  in  a  tree  close  by,  from  which  it 
might  be  shot  at  night.  No  part  of  the  cow  had  been  eaten, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         205 

only  the  marks  of  the  four  fangs  in  the  neck  were  to  be  seen. 
I  took  up  my  position  about  sunset,  and  soon  after  a  fine 
panther  came  bounding  out  into  the  open.  The  light,  how- 
ever, was  bad,  and  I  could  not  be  certain  of  my  aim,  for  the 
moon  was  obscured  by  thin  clouds.  The  panther  commenced, 
as  they  always  do,  by  tearing  away  the  softer  skin  inside  the 
thigh.  At  length  I  fired,  but  the  beast  bounded  off  unscathed. 
About  two  hours  after  it  returned,  and  again  I  fired  with  the 
same  result.  I  was  much  disgusted,  and,  rolling  myself  in  my 
blanket,  I  went  to  sleep. 

Just  below  where  I  sat  was  a  jungle-path,  and  about  day- 
break I  spied  a  bear  coming  leisurely  along  it.  I  fired,  and 
he  rolled  over,  but  picked  himself  up,  and  went  off.  Presently 
Munnoo  appeared,  and  we  took  up  the  track,  but  soon  lost  it 
among  some  ravines,  and  I  returned  to  the  village.  After 
breakfast  we  proceeded  to  a  jungle  some  miles  off,  passing 
on  our  way  round  the  edge  of  a  fine  artificial  lake,  along 
the  shores  of  which  we  found  tracks  of  tigers,  panthers,  bears, 
wild-pigs,  and  deer.  Farther  on,  we  beat  out  a  very  likely- 
looking  covert,  in  which  we  found  the  fresh  track  of  a  tiger  ; 
and  in  the  moist  sand  of  a  small  stream,  well  sheltered  by 
overhanging  bushes,  I  came  on  the  spot  where  he  had  lain,  as 
was  evident  by  hairs  from  his  coat  lying  on  the  ground. 

We  then  beat  a  rocky  ravine,  taking  up  positions  on  trees. 
Soon  a  bear  came  out,  and  fell  to  my  shot,  but  rose  again  and 
made  off  up  the  hill  behind  me.  Bushes  intervened,  and  I 
was  unable  to  put  in  my  second  barrel.  At  that  moment  a 
police-horseman,  who- was  on  his  way  to  join  us,  met  him  on 
the  face  of  the  hill.  The  bear  charged,  and,  wild  with  fright, 
the  horse  reared  up,  and  then  suddenly  swerving  round, 
threw  his  rider.  Ludicrous  as  the  affair  was,  it  might  have 
proved  serious  for  the  man,  but,  most  fortunately,  the  bear 


206  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

rushed  at  the  horse,  which  broke  away  at  full  gallop.  The 
bear  then  crossed  the  open  ridge,  and  went  down  into  the  next 
ravine.  We  followed  him  at  once,  and  running  ahead,  took 
up  fresh  positions.  Soon  after  we  heard  the  shouts  of  the 
beaters,  and  presently  I  saw  the  bear  coming  towards  me. 
His  general  health  was  evidently  impaired,  and  my  next  shot 
finished  him.  On  removing  his  skin  we  found  a  small  match- 
lock-bullet in  the  muscles  of  his  shoulder.  It  had  been  there 
a  long  time,  and  was  enveloped  in  a  tough  white  sac. 

That  evening  Munnoo  took  one  of  my  guns,  and  sat  up 
over  the  carcass  of  the  cow,  while  I  took  up  a  position  on 
another  platform  in  a  tree  half-a-mile  distant.  During  the 
night  I  heard  Munnoo  fire  several  shots,  and  nothing  having 
come  near  me,  I  descended  at  daybreak  and  went  up  to  him. 
Eound  the  carcass  of  the  cow  lay  the  bodies  of  four  dead 
hyaenas ;  a  fifth  had  been  wounded,  and  we  tracked  him  by 
the  blood  for  some  distance  into  the  jungle. 

I  should  have  wished  to  explore  these  jungles  farther,  but 
my  presence  was  required  at  head-quarters,  and  we  returned 
to  Mundlaisir.  While  descending  to  the  ferry  on  the  ISTer- 
budda,  we  fell  in  with  a  large  wolf,  which  allowed  us  to 
approach  within  a  few  paces  before  he  moved  lazily  away. 
During  our  stay  at  the  village  we  had  resided  in  the  dhurm- 
salla  or  shelter-house  for  native  travellers.  These  dhurmsallas 
are  open  sheds,  having  a  wall  on  three  sides,  the  roof  on  the 
fourth  being  supported  by  posts.  They  are  free  to  all  comers. 
Immediately  on  reaching  home  I  felt  very  unwell,  and  con- 
tinued so  for  some  days,  when  my  malady  declared  itself 
in  the  form  of  a  mild  attack  of  smallpox.  I  had  no  doubt 
contracted  the  disease  in  the  dhurmsalla. 


CHAPTER  XITI. 

Ride  to  Maunpore — Nylghae — Absence  of  Fear — Blue  Bull  shot — "Wolves — 
Munnoo  shoots  a  Tiger — Tracks  of  Four — Panther  and  Cubs — Ajnaar 
River — Cave — Recluse — Panther  shot — The  Force  of  Imagination — Bheel 
Insurrection— Plunder  of  Treasure — Military  Movements — Rout  of  Insur- 
gents—Discovery of  Buried  Treasure — Surrender  of  Bheema — A  Tiger 
missed — Flying  Squirrel — Ant-eater. 

HAVING  work  at  Maunpore,  I  left  Mundlaisir  early  one  morn- 
ing in  the  hot  season  of  1858,  and  rode  into  Malwa  by  a  jungle- 
path  up  the  mountain-side.  Anticipating  that  I  should  see 
game  of  some  sort  on  the  road,  I  directed  one  of  my  men  to 
take  a  rifle  and  go  in  advance,  awaiting  my  arrival  a  few  miles 
below  the  pass.  Near  the  base  of  the  hills  I  came  on  a  herd 
of  nylghae.  They  crossed  the  path  about  100  yards  ahead, 
and,  passing  over  a  wooded  spur  of  the  hills,  disappeared  on 
the  other  side.  Though  they  must  have  seen  us  they  did  not 
appear  to  be  alarmed ;  and,  dismounting,  I  made  my  horse 
over  to  my  attendant. 

I  may  here  remark  on  the  singular  absence  of  fear  of 
human  beings  displayed  at  times  even  by  the  most  timid 
animals,  if  the  former  are  passing  along  paths  or  highways.  I 
have  frequently  seen  deer  of  all  kinds,  when  grazing  quietly 
near  a  road,  allow  a  party  of  men,  mounted  or  on  foot,  to  pass 
near  them  without  any  signs  of  alarm.  Any  one,  however 
leaving  the  beaten  track,  or  making  any  attempt  to  stalk 
them,  would  at  once  create  suspicion,  and  cause  them  to 
move  off. 

Carefully  ascertaining  the  direction  of  the  wind,  I  made  a 


208  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

circuit,  and  picking  my  way  up  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent  I  got 
within  seventy  yards  of  a  large  blue  bull  He  stood  broad- 
side on,  gazing  back,  apparently  on  the  watch  against  pursuit. 
Catching  sight  of  me  he  started  off,  and  at  that  moment 
I  fired.  The  bull  dashed  wildly  forward  for  fifty  yards,  and 
fell  dead.  Startled  by  my  shot,  but  uncertain  whence  it 
came,  the  cows  ran  up  from  a  hollow  which  had  concealed 
them  from  my  view,  and  stood  out  on  the  hill-side ;  but  I 
had  already  shot  more  than  I  could  carry,  and  I  allowed  them 
to  escape.  On  the  way  back  to  my  horse  I  blazed  the  trees 
with  my  knife,  and  having  collected  a  small  pile  of  stones  at 
the  side  of  the  path,  I  resumed  my  journey.  On  ascending 
the  mountain  I  rode  to  some  Bheel  huts,  and  informed  the 
inhabitants  where  they  would  find  the  beast.  Men,  women, 
and  children  at  once  turned  out,  furnished  with  knives, 
hatchets,  and  baskets  ;  and  I  doubt  not  that  before  night  the 
flesh  of  the  poor  bull  was  frizzling  over  many  a  fire. 

From  Maunpore  I  returned  to  the  Nerbudda,  having  sent 
on  my  tents  and  people  to  Khull,  where  I  found  them  en- 
camped on  the  south  bank.  A  small  flock  of  sheep,  which  I 
kept  for  food,  had  been  grazing  that  morning  near  the  camp, 
and  were  attacked  in  broad  daylight  by  several  wolves.  One 
sheep  was  killed  before  the  shepherd  could  drive  them  off. 
Near  the  spot  were  some  deserted  huts,  which  had  been 
occupied  by  a  troop  of  irregular  cavalry.  I  directed  Munnoo 
to  tie  the  carcass  to  a  tent-peg,  and  conceal  himself  at  night- 
fall in  one  of  these  huts.  The  wolves  returned,  as  we  had 
expected.  Munnoo  shot  one  dead,  and  wounded  another, 
which  got  away. 

Next  morning  I  was  riding  about  two  miles  down  the 
Bombay  road,  when  a  troop  of  six  or  seven  wolves  crossed 
the  path  100  yards  ahead  of  me.  As  was  my  custom,  I 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         209 

was  accompanied  by  a  man  on  foot  with  a  rifle.  Quietly  dis- 
mounting, and  making  my  horse  over  to  my  attendant,  we 
moved  on  at  the  same  pace,  and  on  reaching  the  spot  where 
the  wolves  had  crossed,  I  saw  several  standing  about  in  the 
jungle  within  easy  shot.  Selecting  a  large  dog-wolf,  I  fired, 
shooting  him  through  the  body  behind  the  shoulder.  Although 
completely  doubled  up,  he  kept  his  legs,  but  as  I  could 
plainly  see  the  bullet-hole  in  his  side,  I  made  sure  he  would 
fall,  and  ran  on  through  the  jungle,  hoping  to  get  a  shot  at 
another.  This  I  failed  to  do,  and  on  my  return  I  found  the 
wounded  wolf  had  disappeared.  I  followed  the  track  by  the 
blood  for  some  distance,  but  did  not  see  him  again,  and  had 
to  content  myself  with  the  knowledge  that  he  was  past  sheep- 
killing.  Previous  to  this  I  had  received  intelligence  of  a 
tiger  in  the  Boorar  river,  near  Teekree,  but  having  much  work 
on  hand  I  had  been  unable  to  go  after  him.  But  about  this 
time  a  detachment  of  the  71st  Highlanders  was  on  its  march 
up  from  Bombay,  and  as  I  intended  to  meet  them  at  Sind- 
wah,  I  hoped  to  find  time  to  look  up  the  tiger  on  the  way. 
I  therefore  deputed  Munnoo  from  Khull,  ordering  him  to 
examine  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  send  me  word  at  once  if 
he  saw  a  fair  prospect  of  sport.  He  returned  after  two  days, 
bringing  the  skin  of  the  tiger,  which  was  of  the  largest  size. 
Hearing  that  a  cow  had  been  killed  on  the  morning  of  his 
arrival  at  Teekree,  he  had  sat  up  in  a  tree  over  the  body,  and 
on  the  tiger  coming  out,  about  sunset,  he  had  shot  him  dead. 
I  was  rather  angry  at  this  termination  to  my  hopes,  and  did 
not  award  to  Munnoo  the  meed  of  praise  which  he  evidently 
anticipated.  When  near  Sindwah  I  came  on  the  fresh  foot- 
prints of  four  tigers  which  had  passed  along  the  road  in  the 
early  morning.  They  were  very  distinct  in  the  heavy  dust — 
paterfamilias,  the  lady-mother,  and  two  well-grown  children. 

p 


210  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  returned  with  the  7 1st  detachment,  and  one  of  the 
officers  being  anxious  to  see  some  wild  beast,  I  took  him  out 
in  the  jungles  on  the  south  side  of  the  Nerbudda.  I  hardly 
expected  anything,  as  we  had  but  few  people  with  us,  and 
had  not  had  time  to  send  men  out  in  the  early  morning.  But, 
from  the  rocks  on  the  edge  of  some  table-land,  thinly  covered 
with  thorny  bushes,  we  started  a  panther,  and,  on  examining 
the  spot,  found  two  cubs,  which  we  carried  off  and  made  over 
to  the  soldiers  on  joining  the  camp. 

As  we  approached  Maunpore,  I  sent  Himta  ahead,  telling 
him  to  bring  all  the  local  talent  into  action,  and  to  endeavour 
to  mark  down  something  on  the  morning  that  we  were  to 
arrive.  Accordingly,  he  presented  himself  as  directed,  and 
reported  a  panther  in  the  bed  of  the  Ajnaar  river.  This  river, 
like  many  other  streams  rising  on  the  southern  boundary  of 
Malwa,  after  winding  for  a  short  distance  through  the  higher 
jungle,  leaps  down  a  precipice  of  about  thirty  feet  into  a 
chasm,  walled  on  either  side  by  perpendicular  rocks  of  large- 
grained  basalt,  intersected  in  parts  by  veins  of  quartz.  It  was 
to  a  cave  in  the  north  bank  of  this  river  that  I  retired  when 
the  mutiny  broke  out  at  Mhow,  and  it  was  not  far  from  this 
cave  that  the  panther  had  this  morning  been  seen  to  enter 
a  mass  of  rocks  in  the  centre  of  the  river  immediately  below 
the  waterfall.  The  cave  was  formed  by  an  overhanging  rock, 
from  which  water  dripped  incessantly.  The  water,  being 
strongly  charged  with  lime,  caused  the  surface  of  the  rock  to 
be  covered  with  incrustations  in  a  stalactite  form,  wondrous 
to  behold.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  cave  rose  a  mass 
of  heavy  foliage  twined  with  creepers,  generally  tenanted  by 
green  pigeons.  The  only  drawback  to  the  place  was  a  very 
dirty  recluse,  who  had  taken  up  his  quarters  here,  spending 
his  time  either  in  begging  in  the  neighbourhood,  or  sleeping 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         211 

in  a  state  closely  bordering  on  nudity  among  the  ashes  of  his 
fire.  These  pious  occupations,  I  need  hardly  state,  secured  him 
the  countenance  and  respect  of  all  his  native  acquaintances. 

Himta  had  left  several  of  his  men  on  the  watch  while  he 
came  to  guide  us,  and  having  finished  breakfast  we  set  out. 
The  party  consisted  of  one  officer  of  the  detachment,  the 
doctor  from  Mundlaisir,  and  myself.  When  started,  the  pan- 
ther could  only  come  down  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  was 
only  about  thirty  yards  in  breadtlj.  Above  him  was  the 
waterfall,  and  on  either  side  walls  of  rock.  We  drew  lots  for 
places,  the  doctor  getting  the  left  bank,  I  the  right,  and  the 
Highlander  the  centre  of  the  stream.  As  soon  as  we  had 
mounted  into  trees,  the  panther  was  started,  and  hugging  the 
rock  on  the  right  bank,  came  towards  me.  I  fired,  but 
missed,  and  the  beast  passed  close  under  me.  Turning  sharp 
on  the  branch,  I  again  fired,  and  he  fell  dead.  As  we  stood 
round  the  dead  beast  the  Highlander  commenced  to  con- 
gratulate himself  on  his  good  shooting,  whereby  he  had  slain 
the  panther.  Not  having  heard  any  report  from  his  gun,  I 
mildly  suggested  that  I  had  been  the  fortunate  marksman, 
but  he  declared  so  positively  that  the  fatal  shot  was  his,  that 
I,  looking  on  him  as  my  guest,  held  my  peace.  Just  then  the 
doctor,  who  was  standing  by,  passed  his  fingers  into  the  barrels 
of  his  rifle.  They  were  perfectly  clean.  It  was  a  wonderful 
instance  of  the  force  of  imagination. 

Soon  after  this  I  marched  to  join  a  force  employed  in  the 
Sathpoora  Hills  in  the  suppression  of  a  Bheel  insurrection. 
The  Bheels  to  the  north  of  Khandesh,  headed  by  Khaja 
Sing,  took  advantage  of  the  embarrassment  of  the  British 
Government  in  the  suppression  of  the  mutiny,  to  return  to 
their  old  habits  of  plunder  ;  and  those  of  the  Burwanee  State, 
in  the  south-western  corner  of  Nimar,  having  unsettled  claims 


212  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

against  their  own  chief,  were  not  slow  to  follow  their  example. 
As  in  more  civilised  countries,  there  is  always  in  India  a 
number  of  men  of  irregular  habits,  ready  to  join  in  anything 
whereby  they  may  obtain  the  means  of  subsistence  without 
the  necessity  of  labour  ;  and  no  sooner  does  any  freebooter  or 
disaffected  chief  evince  a  tendency  to  plunder,  than  many  such 
at  once  offer  their  services.  As  vultures  to  a  carcass,  so  are 
they  attracted  from  far  and  near,  and  the  disturber  of  the  public 
peace  is  speedily  surrounded  by  a  band  of  Affghan  or  Mekranee 
mercenaries,  swashbucklers,  and  vagabonds  from  the  towns, 
ready  for  any  mischief.  The  only  qualification  necessary  for 
service  is  the  possession  of  arms,  and  the  promises  of  remu- 
neration to  be  received  generally  depend  on  the  nature  of  the 
work  expected. 

Soon  after  they  had  turned  out  in  insurrection  the  Bheels 
of  the  Sathpoora  received  a  most  welcome  subsidy.  Owing 
to  the  disasters  of  the  day,  the  value  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany's rupee  became  much  depreciated  throughout  India,  and 
in  consequence  of  this,  silver,  which,  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, would  have  found  its  way  into  the  Bombay  mint,  was 
forwarded  into  the  interior,  there  to  be  coined  in  the  Indore 
and  other  native  states.  At  this  time  opium,  for  export  from 
Malwa  to  China,  was  escorted  to  Bombay  by  armed  men,  hired 
for  the  trip  by  the  native  dealers  ;  and  about  400  of  these  had 
been  collected  by  some  bankers  at  Bombay,  and  started  from 
the  railway  terminus  in  charge  of  a  string  of  carts  laden  with 
silver,  en  route  for  Indore.  The  news  of  their  march,  of  course, 
preceded  them,  and  doubtless  an  embassy  from  the  insurgents 
was  sent  to  treat. 

When  the  convoy  reached  the  British  collectorate  of 
Khandesh,  they  were  informed  by  the  officer  in  charge  of  the 
district  that  the  Bheels  of  the  Sathpoora  were  in  rebellion, 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         213 

and  would  probably  make  a  descent  on  the  treasure,  which 
was  stated  to  be  worth  £75,000.  He  suggested  that  they 
should  pass  up  into  Malwa  by  the  more  easterly  route  via 
Asseerghur.  This  advice  was  not  taken,  and  when  the 
treasure-party  had  reached  a  spot  six  miles  north  of  Sindwah 
Tort  the  Bheels  came  down  on  them  in  force.  Little  or  no 
show  of  resistance  was  made  by  the  guard,  who,  once  they 
had  satisfied  their  consciences  by  a  mild  remonstrance,  joined 
heartily  in  the  plunder.  The  treasure  consisted  of  lumps  of 
silver,  many  pounds  in  weight,  coins  of  Chili,  and  five-franc 
pieces.  Every  man  filled  his  waistband,  and  a  large  quantity 
was  buried  in  the  jungle  by  the  Bheels.  Many  of  the  escort 
joined  the  insurgents,  others  continued  their  way  to  the  Ner- 
budda,  and  were  arrested  by  the  police,  who  collected  from 
their  persons  treasure  valued  at  about  £6000.  No  sooner  had 
the  news  of  the  robbery  got  abroad  than  numbers  of  vagabonds 
of  all  castes  from  the  large  towns  and  viDages,  attracted  by 
promises  of  high  pay,  joined  the  Bheels. 

A  strong  native  force  was  then  sent  out  in  April  1858  by 
the  Bombay  Government,  and  an  organised  advance  was  made 
into  the  heart  of  the  jungles.  The  column  was  commanded 
by  Colonel  Evans  of  the  9th  Bombay  Native  Infantry.  They 
were  encamped  at  Burwanee,  and  having  received  reliable 
intelligence  that  the  Bheels  and  their  men  were  in  a  strong 
position  in  the  jungle  a  few  miles  to  the  southward,  an  attack 
was  planned.  A  small  column  was  sent  to  make  a  feint  at  a 
pass  to  the  eastward  of  the  insurgents,  who  turned  out  in 
strength  to  oppose  its  progress.  Meanwhile  the  main  body 
made  a  detour,  and  advanced  on  the  rebel  camp  from  the  west- 
ward. The  Bheel  force  were  exulting  on  their  supposed  victory 
over  the  smaller  column,  when  the  alarm  was  given  that  the 
Government  troops  were  in  their  camp.  They  returned  with 


214  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

all  speed,  and  a  sharp  fight  took  place,  the  Affghans  and 
Mekranees  firing  from  behind  the  masses  of  rock  and  trees, 
and  making  a  determined  resistance.  In  all  about  300  were 
slain,  principally  outsiders,  for  the  Bheels  themselves  fled 
early  in  the  day,  and  by  their  knowledge  of  the  ground  made 
good  their  escape.  A  prisoner  having  volunteered  to  show 
some  of  the  treasure  which  was  buried  in  the  jungle,  a  party 
of  men  was  sent  with  him.  He  guided  them  to  a  spot  where 
lay  the  decaying  carcass  of  a  bullock,  and  stated  that  the 
treasure  would  be  found  buried  beneath  it.  On  digging,  silver 
of  the  value  of  about  £12,000  was  recovered. 

I  joined  the  force  a  few  days  after  the  fight  had  taken 
place.  Colonel  Evans  was  then  encamped  on  the  Goee  river, 
in  the  jungle,  twelve  miles  south-west  of  Burwanee.  Soon 
after  I  received  a  message  from  Bheema,  the  leader  of  the 
Burwanee  Bheels,  stating  that  he  wished  to  surrender,  but 
desiring  that  I  should  meet  him  in  the  jungle  and  let  him 
know  the  terms  under  which  he  would  be  allowed  to  come  in. 
The  place  of  meeting  was  to  be  about  two  miles  from  the 
camp,  and  I  was  not  to  be  accompanied  by  any  armed  party. 
As  I  knew  that  all  but  Bheels  had  fled  from  the  jungles 
after  the  engagement  I  acceded  to  his  request,  and  replied 
that  I  would  meet  him  on  the  following  day.  I  set  out,  ac- 
companied by  one  native  horseman  of  my  own  police,  and 
guided  by  a  Bheel  who  had  been  sent  by  Bheema.  Meeting 
the  officer  commanding  the  Khandesh  Bheel  Corps,  which 
formed  part  of  the  force,  he  offered  to  join  me,  and  as  he  was 
personally  known  to  Bheema,  I  assented. 

On  reaching  a  quiet  spot  in  the  jungle  our  guide  requested 
us  to  halt,  and,  running  off,  disappeared  in  the  thickets. 
After  a  short  time  he  returned,  followed  by  Bheema,  who 
was  accompanied  by  fifteen  or  twenty  Bheels  armed  with 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         215 

matchlocks,  swords,  and  bows.  I  greeted  him  pleasantly,  and 
after  some  conversation  I  told  him  the  terms  on  which  he 
might  come  in.  They  were  at  once  accepted,  and  he  rode  back 
with  us  to  the  camp,  while  his  men  returned  to  the  forest. 
The  news  of  his  arrival  created  no  small  stir  among  the  troops, 
and  my  tent  was  surrounded  by  the  men,  anxious  to  get  a 
sight  of  the  redoubtable  freebooter,  who  was  allowed  to  be  at 
large  on  parole.  The  result  of  these  attentions  was,  that  he 
took  fright  and  fled  in  the  night ;  and  for  long  after  he  con- 
tinued to  be  a  thorn  in  the  flesh  both  to  his  own  chief  and  to 
the  British  officer  in  political  charge  of  the  district.  Soon 
after  this  the  force  broke  up  and  proceeded  to  quarters,  and 
my  work  in  this  country  being  only  of  a  temporary  nature  I 
returned  to  Mundlaisir. 

When  encamped  with  the  force  we  received  intelligence 
of  a  tiger  which  had  lain  up  in  some  long  grass  in  the  bottom 
of  a  small  ravine.  I  went  out  with  two  other  officers,  and 
having  taken  positions  in  trees,  men  were  sent  to  hurl  down 
stones  from  some  overhanging  rocks.  The  tiger  was  at  once 
started,  and  passed  under  the  tree  on  which  one  of  my  friends 
was  posted.  He  fired,  missing  right  and  left,  and  the  tiger 
went  off  into  the  jungle.  About  this  time  I  saw  a  specimen 
of  the  flying  squirrel,  which  was  brought  in  by  one  of  the 
men.  It  was  brownish-gray  in  colour,  and  over  two  feet  in 
length.  On  either  side  a  web  of  loose  skin  connected  the  fore 
and  hind  legs.  In  springing  from  tree  to  tree  these  webs  are 
spread  out,  and,  acting  like  sails,  enable  the  animal  to  make 
surprising  leaps.  Another  singular  creature  was  captured  one 
night  near  the  tents.  It  was  nearly  four  feet  in  length  and 
about  One  in  height,  tapering  from  the  middle  of  its  body  to 
the  nose  and  tail.  The  legs  were  short,  and  the  toes  furnished 


216  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

with  strong  claws.  The  entire  body  from  tip  to  tip  was 
covered  with  strong,  hard,  yellow  scales,  the  largest  being 
about  one  and  a  half  inch  across.  From  its  appearance  we 
supposed  it  to  be  a  species  of  ant-eater.  When  alarmed,  it 
rolled  itself  into  a  circular  form,  the  tail  being  lapped  over 
the  head,  which  it  completely  protected. 


CHAPTEK  XIV. 

Suppression  of  the  Mutiny — A  Wise  Policy — Capture  of  Gwalior — Tantia 
Topee — Advance  of  General  Michel — Duties  of  "Politicals" — Rajghur 
—The  Pursuit — An  Ambuscade— Capture  of  the  Guns— Death  of  Lieut. 
Shaw — March  on  Bhairseeah  and  Sironj — The  Sir  Soubah — Engagement 
at  Mongrowlee — Advance  on  Lullutpore — Movements  of  the  Enemy — 
Fight  at  Sindwaho — Pursuit — Affair  at  Kurai — Bagrode — Bodies  of  the 
Slain— Bhilsa— The  Sanchi  Tope— Advance  on  Baitool— Flight  of  Tantia 
— Return  to  Mhow- — March  on  Kotah — The  Rajah's  Shooting  Party — 
Chinkara-shooting — Evening  Receptions — Adroit  Thieves — Nusserabad — • 
Dispersion  of  Tantia's  Force — His  Capture  and  Execution — End  of  the 
Campaign — I  move  to  Bhopal. 

BY  the  autumn  of  1858  the  mutiny  and  rebellion  in  India 
had  been  effectually  crushed.  Scarce  eighteen  months  had 
elapsed  since  the  Bengal  army  had  thrown  off  its  allegiance 
to  the  British,  and  having  possessed  itself  of  magazines,  trea- 
suries, and  fortresses,  vainly  supposed  that  it  could  establish  a 
government  of  its  own.  It  was  narrated  of  a  certain  native 
chief  who  owed  much  gratitude  to  the  British,  that,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  insurrection,  he  had  consulted  an  astro- 
loger as  to  the  course  which  he  ought  to  pursue.  The  reply 
was,  "  If  you  can  utterly  exterminate  them,  do  so — but  if  one 
escapes,  he  will  return  with  thousands."  That  chief  stood 
firm.  Had  the  Bengal  army  received  as  good  advice  it  might 
have  existed  till  this  day.  A  few  European  troops  were  still 
to  be  found  in  the  Indian  garrisons.  These  held  their  ground 
till  reinforced,  and  then,  marching  forth,  they  wreaked  a  ter- 
rible vengeance  on  their  foes. 

The  Central  India  force  under  Sir  Hugh  Rose  had  ended 


218  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

its  victorious  march  from  Indore  by  the  capture  of  Gwalior ; 
and  the  rebel  army,  broken  and  utterly  disorganised,  had  fled 
southwards  under  the  leadership  of  Tantia  Topee.  This  man 
was  reported  to  have  been  the  intimate  friend  of  Nana  Sahib, 
and  to  have  been  implicated  with  that  miscreant  in  the  mas- 
sacre at  Cawnpore.  It  was  said  that,  despairing  of  success  in 
the  North-west  Provinces,  he  hoped  to  gain  the  Bombay  Pre- 
sidency, and  there  endeavour  to  rekindle  the  flame  of  rebellion. 
Be  that  as  it  may,  driven  from  Gwalior  by  Sir  Hugh,  he  fled 
with  a  broken  host  of  horse  and  foot,  and  arrived  at  Jalra 
Patun  in  Central  India,  where  he  took  possession  of  thirty 
guns  of  various  calibres  from  the  Rajah.  As  ordnance  these 
guns  were  contemptible,  but  the  mere  fact  of  an  army  having 
guns  of  any  sort  is  sufficient  in  India  to  increase  its  import- 
ance. 

To  oppose  the  progress  of  Tantia,  a  small  column  under 
Colonel  Lockhart  (92d)  was  sent  out  from  Mhow.  It  con- 
sisted of  about  350  men  of  the  92d  Highlanders,  400  of  the 
19th  Bombay  native  infantry,  two  squadrons  of  the  Bombay 
Native  Cavalry,  and  two  guns  of  the  Bengal  European  Artil- 
lery. But  on  intelligence  being  received  that  the  rebel  force 
numbered  about  20,000  men,  and  that  Tantia  had  seized  the 
guns  at  Jalra  Patun,  a  second  column  under  Colonel  Hope, 
71st  Highland  Light  Infantry,  was  despatched.  This  column 
consisted  of  about  350  men  71st  Highlanders,  400  men  4th 
Bombay  Native  Infantry,  two  guns  Bengal  European  Artillery, 
and  a  squadron  17th  Lancers.  General  Michel  accompanied 
the  latter,  and  eventually  assumed  command  of  the  combined 
force.  Captain  Hutchinson  accompanied  Colonel  Lockhart  as 
political  officer,  and  I  was  sent  with  Colonel' Hope  in  a  similar 
capacity.  It  was  our  duty  to  obtain  information  of  the  strength, 
position,  and  intended  movements  of  the  rebel  force ;  of  the 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE-.  219 

practicability  or  otherwise  of  various  roads ;  and  to  arrange  for 
the  advance  of  such  money  as  might  be  required  for  the 
troops  ;  also  to  collect  the  requisite  supply  of  food  of  all  kinds. 
The  latter  was  a  work  of  considerable  anxiety,  and  could 
not  have  been  carried  out  without  the  hearty  co-operation  of 
the  native  chiefs  in  whose  territories  we  were  engaged  ;  for  we 
were  in  pursuit  of  a  flying  enemy,  the  carrying  powers  of  the 
commissariat  department  were  very  limited,  and  it  was  im- 
possible to  say  on  one  day  where  we  might  be  the  next. 

On  receiving  intelligence  of  the  advance  of  our  force  from 
Mhow,  Tantia  moved  eastward,  and  reached  Eajghur,  a  fort 
about  120  miles  north  of  Indore,  and  ten  miles  west  of  the 
Bombay  and  Agra  trunk-road.  General  Michel  advanced  in 
a  north-easterly  direction,  and  on  the  14th  of  September, 
about  3  P.M.,  came  in  sight  of  the  rebel  force.  We  had  been 
marching  since  an  early  hour,  and  our  men  had  suffered 
greatly  from  the  intense  heat,  at  no  season  more  oppressive 
than  during  the  months  of  September  and  October.  On  arriv- 
ing at  a  spot  whence  the  country  fell  away  towards  the  river 
Neewuj,  we  saw  the  enemy  about  two  miles  off,  encamped  on 
the  far  side  of  the  stream.  A  portion  of  their  force  had 
crossed  to  this  side  of  the  river,  and  had  taken  possession  of 
the  fort  of  Eajghur,  which  stands  on  the  left  bank.  Conscious 
of  the  exhausted  condition  of  his  men,  and  aware  that  little 
could  be  done  during  the  few  hours  of  daylight  which  re- 
mained, General  Michel  halted  his  column  for  the  night. 

Before  daybreak,  on  the  15th  September,  we  were  under 
arms,  and  moving  down  the  narrow  track  descending  to 
Eajghur.  Oh  either  side  the  country  was  covered  with 
thorny  scrub,  and  intersected  with  ravines.  As  far  as  we 
could  see  from  left  to  right,  in  the  low  ground,  were  the 
camp-fires  of  the  enemy.  A  halt  was  ordered,  and  we  lay 


220  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

down  on  the  road  till  dawn.  We  then  became  aware  that 
Tantia  had  moved,  only  a  rear-guard  of  a  few  hundred  horse 
remaining  on  the  ground.  He  had  marched  in  an  easterly 
direction  towards  Beowra,  on  the  trunk-road.  We  at  once 
descended  to  the  river ;  and,  at  the  request  of  the  General, 
I  rode  into  the  fort  to  bring  out  the  chief,  and  learn  what  I 
could  of  the  movements  of  the  enemy.  The  gate  of  the  fort 
was  reached  by  a  stone  slope  about  eighty  yards  in  length. 
I  was  accompanied  by  four  troopers  of  the  late  Bhopal  Con- 
tingent ;  and,  on  gaining  admittance,  I  left  two  of  them  in 
the  gateway  to  secure  a  retreat  if  necessary,  and  rode  on  to 
the  chiefs  house.  The  fort  presented  a  singular  appearance, 
the  streets  being  utterly  deserted,  save  by  a  few  old  or  de- 
crepit individuals.  The  roadways  and  floors  of  the  verandahs 
on  either  side  were  covered  with  horse-litter  and  smoking 
embers,  and  in  all  directions  were  strewed  dinner-plates  made 
of  the  leaf  of  the  kakra  tree — relics  of  the  last  night's  feast. 
The  chief  met  me  at  the  door  of  his  house,  and  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  detail  the  indignities  to  which  he  had  been  subjected 
by  his  late  unwelcome  guests.  His  looks  belied  his  state- 
ments, and  I  have  no  doubt  they  had  spent  a  very  jovial 
evening  together.  He  accompanied  me  to  the  General,  with 
whom  I  left  him. 

Our  small  body  of  horse,  consisting  of  two  squadrons  of 
native  cavalry  and  one  of  the  17th  Lancers,  was  ordered  to 
pursue,  and  my  services  as  a  political  not  being  required 
while  Captain  Hutchinson  was  in  camp,  I  accompanied 
them.  The  country  over  which  the  enemy  had  retreated 
was  similar  to  that  on  the  west  side  of  the  river — undulating 
and  stony,  cut  up  with  many  small  ravines  and  watercourses, 
and  covered  with  thorny  scrub,  through  which  the  road  wound 
over  the  natural  surface  of  the  ground.  Skirmishers  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         221 

thrown  forward  to  clear  the  jungle  in  our  front,  while  the 
rest  of  the  cavalry  kept  the  track.  About  a  mile  from  Eajghur 
we  came  on  a  dismounted  gun  lying  on  the  path,  and  soon 
after  this,  stragglers  were  overtaken  and  cut  up  by  the  skir- 
mishers. On  a  steep  incline,  rising  out  of  a  watercourse,  we 
found  two  guns,  which  had  evidently  belonged  to  the  Eoyal 
Jalra  Patun  Horse  Artillery.  They  had  been  abandoned, 
and  the  harness,  which  had  been  cast  off  the  horses,  lay 
beside  them.  At  length  we  sighted  the  rear-guard  of  the 
enemy,  consisting  of  cavalry.  They  allowed  us  to  approach 
within  range  of  their  carbines,  from  which  they  fired  a  few 
shots  before  going  off. 

We  now  came  to  a  more  level  country,  and  on  the  left  side 
of  the  road,  an  open  space,  half-a-mile  in  length,  and  four 
hundred  yards  in  breadth,  had  been  cleared  of  jungle,  and 
roughly  cultivated.  As  our  skirmishers  advanced  over  this 
ground,  the  rebel  horse  turned,  and  came  on  in  considerable 
strength,  driving  them  in  on  our  diminutive  column.  Sir 
William  Gordon  of  the  17th,  who  was  in  command,  formed 
his  men  up  in  line,  and  moved  slowly  on.  Meanwhile  the 
open  clearing  above  referred  to  was  covered  by  the  enemy's 
sowars,  who  advanced  shouting  and  brandishing  their  swords. 
As  we  closed  in  on  them  they  began  to  give  way,  and  when 
they  saw  us  increase  the  pace  to  a  trot,  it  was  evident  that 
they  did  not  mean  to  stand.  On  receiving  the  order  to  charge, 
our  men  came  on  in  admirable  order,  but  the  enemy  turned 
and  went  off.  A  few  fell  before  our  sabres  and  lances,  but 
the  mass  of  men,  which  a  few  moments  before  had  shouted  so 
defiantly,  fled  in  the  wildest  disorder. 

But  it  now  appeared  that  they  had  been  leading  us  into  a 
trap,  and,  had  the  execution  been  as  good  as  the  plan,  they 
would  have  thinned  our  ranks.  Along  the  whole  line  of  our 


222  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

front  they  had  posted  their  guns  masked  in  the  jungle,  and 
no  sooner  had  their  own  cavalry  swept  through  them,  than 
they  opened  in  our  faces,  accompanied  by  a  sharp  fire  of  mus- 
ketry. Sir  William  Gordon  gave  the  word,  "Threes  left,"  and 
we  passed  within  fifty  yards  of  the  muzzles  of  the  guns.  When 
clear  of  their  front  we  retired  to  the  other  end  of  the  open 
ground,  where  we  halted.  How  we  escaped  being  severely  cut 
up  was  a  miracle.  Neither  man  nor  horse  was  touched,  and. 
we  could  only  suppose  that  the  guns  had  been  laid  for  a 
longer  range,  and,  owing  to  our  sudden  onset,  the  enemy  had 
not  had  time  to  depress  them.  The  infantry  had  probably 
contented  themselves  with  blazing  in  the  air.  Long  after  we 
had  halted,  the  round  shot  continued  to  fly  over  our  heads, 
but  no  damage  was  done,  and  we  quietly  awaited  the  arrival 
of  the  General,  with  our  own  guns  and  infantry.  These  at 
length  came  up.  The  men  had  marched  fast,  and  a  brief  space 
was  allowed  them  to  take  breath.  Meanwhile  the  enemy  had 
again  got  their  guns  on  the  road,  and  were  once  more  in  retreat. 
We  followed,  a  portion  of  the  infantry  skirmishing  in  front 
to  the  right  and  left,  and  the  remainder  in  column  with  the 
guns  and  cavalry.  At  length  we  reached  the  confines  of  the 
hard  stony  soil,  over  which  we  had  marched  since  we  left 
Eajghur,  and  before  us  lay  a  wide  expanse  of  cultivated  ground. 
But  on  this  side  of  the  cultivation  was  a  stream,  with  soft 
boggy  banks  ;  and  as  we  came  in  sight  of  it  we  saw  the  guns 
of  the  enemy  below  us,  struggling  through  the  mud.  Our  own 
were  then  ordered  to  the  front,  and  after  a  few  rounds,  the 
enemy  fled,  leaving  their  guns  as  they  lay.  The  cavalry  was 
again  pushed  forward  ;  and,  having  crossed  the  stream,  swept 
through  a  small  village  and  out  into  the  open  country.  Haif- 
a-mile ahead,  we  saw  the  rebels  in  flight, — a  dense  mass  of 
horse  and  foot  mixed  up  together. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         223 

It  was  now  about  4  P.M.  Our  men  had  been  in  the  saddle 
since  3  A.M.,  and  had  suffered  a  good  deal  from  the  heat. 
We  had  cut  up  a  number  of  the  enemy,  and  had  taken  all 
their  guns  ;  and  as  any  attack  on  the  mass  of  the  rebel  force 
with  our  handful  of  cavalry  must  have  been  followed  by  some 
loss,  and  could  have  been  accompanied  by  no  adequate 
result,  a  halt  was  called,  and  the  enemy  went  off,  heading  for 
Sironj.  Men  and  horses  were  in  want  of  water,  and,  guided  by 
a  fringe  of  date-trees  at  some  distance  to  our  left,  we  rode  off 
to  a  small  stream  and  dismounted.  Here  Lieutenant  Shaw,  of 
the  3d  Cavalry,  died  of  sunstroke.  He  was  taken  ill  as  we 
lay  by  the  water,  and  was  dead  in  twenty  minutes.  He  was 
a  man  of  a  cheerful  and  kindly  disposition,  and  was  much  re- 
gretted by  all  his  comrades.  He  was  buried  at  Beowra,  where 
we  rejoined  the  column,  and  from  which  place  the  captured 
ordnance  was  sent  to  Mhow.  At  Beowra  we  also  buried 
several  men  of  the  92d  and  7lst,  who  had  died  of  sunstroke 
during  the  action.  Our  loss  from  the  enemy  was  nil. 

From  Beowra,  Captain  Hutchinson  returned  to  Indore,  and 
after  a  halt  of  one  day,  the  force  marched  on  Nursinghur,  and 
thence  on  Bhairseeah,  the  object  of  the  General  being  to  drive 
the  enemy  northward.  From  Sironj,  Tantia,  having  obtained 
a  considerable  accession  to  his  force  from  the  Mahomedan 
population  of  the  place,  moved  to  Esaghur  in  the  Gwalior 
territory,  where  he  took  possession  of  ten  guns.  He  then 
divided  his  army  ;  one  portion  with  four  guns  marching  up 
the  left  bank  of  the  Betwa,  and  the  other  with  six  guns 
crossing  that  river,  and  moving  on  Lullutpore.  We  were  for- 
tunate in  falling  in  with  both  divisions.  From  Bhairseeah  we 
also  marched  to  Sironj,  and  thence  to  the  village  of  Mon- 
growlee,  thirty  miles  to  the  north-east,  where  we  fell  in  with 
the  right  division  of  Tantia's  force. 


224  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

About  this  time  we  were  joined  by  one  of  Scindiah's  officers, 
the  Sir  Soubah  or  chief  governor  of  the  district,  from  whom 
I  received  much  valuable  assistance.  From  his  scouts  we 
obtained  intelligence  that  a  body  of  the  enemy  was  coming 
southwards,  and  our  march  was  so  accurately  regulated  that 
we  arrived  on  the  ground  at  Mongrowlee  on  the  9th  October, 
about  one  hour  before  they  came  in  sight.  We  at  once  met 
them,  and  after  some  sharp  firing  they  fled,  leaving  their  four 
guns  in  our  hands. 

On  the  following  morning  General  Michel,  with  all  his 
cavalry,  marched  north  to  Serai,  where  we  fell  in  with  a  column 
under  Colonel  Parke,  72d  Highlanders.  A  considerable  por- 
tion of  his  cavalry  and  horse  artillery  was  transferred  to  our 
force.  Our  own  infantry  and  guns  had  been  directed  to  move 
due  east  to  Malthone,  on  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Saugor 
district.  From  Serai  we  also  moved  east,  intending  to  cross  the 
Betwa  and  advance  through  the  jungle  to  Lullutpore.  The 
river  was  deep  and  rapid,  and  the  passage  was  attended  with 
some  difficulty,  and  on  our  attempting  to  push  on  a  body  of 
irregular  cavalry  by  the  direct  route  through  the  jungle  to  Lul- 
lutpore, they  were  fired  on  from  the  thickets,  and  driven  back. 
The  entire  force  was  therefore  moved  round  to  Malthone,  and 
thence  we  marched  through  a  pass  in  the  hills  to  Narhut. 

At  this  time,  the  second  division  of  the  rebel  army, 
augmented  by  the  men  who  had  fled  from  Mongrowlee,  was 
encamped  at  Lullutpore,  twenty-five  miles  to  the  north,  and 
from  that  place  to  Narhut  was  the  metalled  road  towards 
Saugor.  As  we  had  reason  to  believe  that  the  enemy  would 
attempt  to  turn  our  right  flank,  the  General  determined  to 
intercept  them,  and  had  ordered  the  march  on  Sindwaho,  ten 
miles  to  the  north-east  of  Narhut,  for  the  following  morning. 
With  this  view  I  had  sent  men  ahead  to  the  surrounding  vil- 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         225 

lages,  with  orders  to  the  head  men  to  send  in  all  requisite 
supplies  for  our  force  on  its  arrival.  About  11  P.M.  I  was 
roused  from  a  sound  sleep  by  two  of  my  messengers,  who  re- 
ported that  the  advance  guard  of  the  rebel  force  was  march- 
ing into  Sindwaho.  I  at  once  went  off  to  the  General,  and 
in  half-an-hour  orders  had  gone  to  commanding  officers 
directing  them  to  turn  out  their  men  without  bugle-sounds, 
and  be  ready  to  march  at  once.  We  left  the  ground  soon  after 
midnight  (October  19th),  and  on  arriving  at  Sindwaho  came 
face  to  face  with  the  enemy,  drawn  up  in  line  at  the  head 
of  a  long  rise  of  cultivation. 

As  we  came  within  range  they  opened  on  us  with  their 
artillery.  We  replied  with  shells,  which  burst  over  their 
heads,  causing  great  commotion.  Meanwhile  our  infantry 
were  coming  into  line  in  echellon,  but  before  they  had  time  to 
execute  the  manoeuvre,  the  rebels  turned  and  fled,  their  leaders 
showing  the  way,  as  was  their  us&al  custom.  Six  guns  fell 
into  our  hands.  The  pursuit  was  taken  up  by  the  cavalry  and 
artillery,  and  a  number  of  the  rebels  were  cut  up.  Here  and 
there  they  made  a  stand,  and  fought  to  the  last,  causing  us 
some  loss.  Captain  Harding  of  the  8th  Hussars  was  among 
the  slain.  They  fled  northwards,  and  we  encamped  on  the 
Jamnie  river,  about  ten  miles  from  Tearee,  where  we  halted 
for  one  day,  and  then  marched  west  to  Lullutpore. 

This  had  been  the  station  of  a  wing  of  the  Gwalior  Con- 
tingent Infantry,  and  the  ruined  cantonment  bore  sad  traces 
of  the  mutiny.  Soon  after  our  arrival  I  received  a  report 
that  the  rebels  were  passing  southwards  by  a  jungle  route  a 
few  miles  farther  west.  This  was  confirmed  by  a  party  sent 
to  reconnoitre.  As  it  was  important  that  Tantia  should  not 
be  allowed  to  reach  the  Bombay  Presidency,  we  marched  at 
midnight,  and  next  day  arrived  at  Narhut,  twenty-five  miles 


226  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

distant,  the  same  place  from  which  we  had  marched  to  meet 
the  enemy  at  Sindwaho.  At  midnight  we  again  marched, 
and  halted  a  few  miles  north  of  Kurai  in  the  Saugor  dis- 
trict. The  rebels  were  at  that  time  encamped  about  six 
miles  south-west  of  us,  and  were  much  distressed  by  the 
rapid  moving  to  which  they  had  been  subjected. 

On  the  following  morning  (October  25th)  we  again 
marched  at  about  2  A.M.,  and,  taking  a  south-westerly  course, 
passed  through  Kurai.  At  daybreak,  as  we  cleared  the  town, 
we  saw  the  rebels  crossing  our  front.  They  straggled  along 
the  track,  without  any  attempt  at  order,  and  among  the  various 
groups  of  horsemen  could  be  seen  the  uniforms  of  many 
regiments  mixed  in  confusion.  Advancing  on  them,  we  cut 
their  line  in  two.  The  leading  portion  went  on  its  way 
southwards,  but  those  who  had  been  on  our  right,  as  we 
emerged  from  Kurai,  turned  back  whence  they  came ;  and 
our  cavalry,  which  was  now  broken  into  small  detachments, 
closely  pursued  them,  slaying  many. 

Marching  in  pursuit  of  the'leaders  we  came  to  Bagrode, 
and  here  we  lound  that  they  had  again  been  attacked  by  a 
small  cavalry  force  under  Colonel  Beecher.  Several  dead 
bodies  lay  about  in  the  fields  close  to  our  line  of  march,  and 
beasts  and  birds  appeared  to  have  profited  by  the  occasion. 
Wolves,  jackals,  and  vultures,  were  to  be  seen  standing  about 
in  the  fields,  gorged  and  lazy.  One  wretch  had  fallen  near  a 
furrow,  and  lay  in  the  way  of  a  cultivator  engaged  in  plough- 
ing. Beyond  guiding  his  bullocks  round  the  corpse  as  he 
passed,  he  took  no  notice  whatever,  and  the  vultures,  dis- 
turbed for  the  moment,  hopped  slowly  back  to  their  hideous 
banquet. 

Tantia  had  now  gained  the  shelter  of  the  hills  in  the 
Vindyah  range,  north  of  Hoosungabad,  and  the  tracks  being 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         227 

impassable  for  guns  and  wheeled  carriages,  General  Michel 
was  obliged  to  move  in  a  westerly  direction  to  Bhilsa,  a  large 
town  belonging  to  Scindiah,  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  Betwa  river,  near  its  junction  with  the  Bess,  thirty-two 
miles  north-east  from  Bhopal.  Here  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  the  Bhoodist  remains  known  as  the  Sanchi  Tope, 
an  engraving  of  which  appeared  with  a  short  notice  in  the 
Illustrated  London  News,  March  5,  1870. — "These  Topes 
were  used  for  the  deposit  of  relics,  etc.,  and  the  Sanchi  Tope 
is  one  of  the  most  remarkable.  The  date  of  the  Tope  itself  is 
500  B.C.,  while  the  gateway  is  about  500  years  later.  Of  the 
four  gateways  which  originally  surrounded  it,  the  eastern  is 
the  most  perfect.  The  others  have  suffered  much  damage 
from  weather  and  other  disastrous  effects,  and  two  of  them 
are  now  nothing  more  than  masses  of  richly  carved  blocks 
of  stone,  lying  one  on  the  top  of  the  other.  Of  the  eastern 
gateway  a  cast  is  at  the  present  moment  being  made  by  a 
party  of  Eoyal  Engineers,  under  a  subaltern  officer  who  has 
been  appointed  Superintendent  of  the  Archaeological  Survey 
of  India  in  the  North- West  Provinces,  especially  told  off  for 
this  work  by  the  Government  of  India.  When  finished  the 
cast  will  be  sent  to  England,  and  exhibited  at  the  South 
Kensington  Museum.  In  the  meantime  those  of  our  readers 
for  whom  this  magnificent  memorial  of  Bhoodist  art  has  any 
interest  may  find  in  Mr.  Fergusson's  exhaustive  work,  entitled 
Tree  and  Serpent  Worship,  very  complete  materials  for  ac- 
quainting themselves  with  its  .general  features  and  details." 
Bhilsa  tobacco  is  held  in  high  repute  throughout  Central 
India.  Here  we  parted  with  Scindiah's  Sir  Soubah,  from 
whom  we  had  at  all  times  received  the  greatest  assistance, 
both  in  obtaining  intelligence  of  the  movements  of  the  enemy 
and  in  drawing  supplies  to  the  camp. 


228  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Tantia  Topee  had  in  the  meantime  reached  the  Nerbudda, 
which  he  crossed  to  the  eastward  of  Hoosungabad.  Descending 
the  Vindyah  by  a  rugged  pass,  we  also  crossed  and  advanced 
on  Baitool.  Tantia  was  on  our  left  front  heading  for  Ellich- 
poor,  but  hearing  that  a  force  would  oppose  his  progress  he 
turned  west  along  the  valley  of  the  Taptee,  crossing  that 
river  at  Meil  Ghat,  and  so  passed  through  a  large  tract  of 
heavy  forest  into  Nimar,  emerging  at  Khundwah.  General 
Michel  also  moved  west  from  Baitool  through  a  wild  and 
desolate  country,  in  which  supplies  were  not  procurable. 
While  in  this  jungle,  the  Banda  Nawaub,  who  had  hitherto 
been  with  Tantia,  left  the  rebels,  and,  coming  into  our  camp 
with  his  family  and  personal  servants,  surrendered  himself  a 
prisoner. 

From  Khundwah,  Tantia  passed  through  Niinar  towards 
Burwanee,  and  the  running  was  now  taken  up  by  Colonel 
Parke,  with  his  column,  then  in  the  field  south  of  the  Ner- 
budda.  The  rebels  crossed  the  Nerbudda  near  Burwanee,  and 
headed  for  Baroda,  in  the  Guicowar's  dominions.  Colonel 
Parke  followed  in  close  pursuit,  overtaking  them  at  Chota 
Odeypoor,  where  he  attacked  them  and  slew  many.  Tantia 
then  fled  north  through  the  Banswarra  jungle,  emerging  into 
the  plains  of  Malwa  near  Pertabghur,  where  he  was  met  and 
again  smitten  by  a  flying  column  under  Colonel  Benson,  17th 
Lancers.  Colonel  Somerset,  with  another  column,  then  cut 
in,  attacking  and  driving  him  north  through  the  Kotah  and 
Jeypoor  territories,  whence  he  was  driven  into  Marwar  by  a 
force  from  Nusserabad. 

Meanwhile  General  Michel,  having  arrived  at  Mhow  via, 
Mundlaisir,  rested  his  men,  and  then  marched  north  to  Kotah, 
where  we  halted  a  few  days.  At  this  place  Major  Burton, 
the  political  agent,  and  his  family,  had  been  murdered  early 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         229 

in  the  rebellion,  and  subsequently  the  Eajah  himself  was 
besieged  in  his  palace  by  a  strong  insurgent  force,  which 
had  taken  possession  of  the  town,  which  is  strongly  fortified, 
and  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Chumbul  river.  But 
a  column  from  Bombay,  commanded  by  General  Eoberts,  was 
sent  against  them.  Having  crossed  the  Chumbul  in  boats, 
that  officer  took  possession  of  the  inner  fortress  in  which  the 
palace  stands.  The  town  was  then  carried  by  assault.  Our 
force  was  encamped  near  the  ruins  of  Major  Burton's  bunga- 
low. Its  blackened  walls  bore  many  vengeful  inscriptions, 
written  by  the  British  soldiers  after  the  siege. 

The  Chumbul  flowed  in  a  deep  smooth  stream,  200  yards 
in  width,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  bank  close  to  our  tents.  In 
the  centre  of  the  river  were  a  few  green  islands  of  small  extent, 
formed  by  alluvial  deposit.  These  were  favourite  basking- 
places  for  numbers  of  alligators  and  large  turtle,  which  afforded 
good  targets  for  our  rifles,  and  several  were  shot.  There  is 
usually  a  prejudice  in  India  against  using  the  fresh-water 
turtle  as  an  article  of  food  ;  but  on  this  occasion  we  turned 
them  into  both  soup  and  pies — very  excellent. 

The  Eajah,  having  sent  us  invitations  to  join  a  great 
shooting  party,  we  embarked  one  morning  on  the  river  in  a 
number  of  large  boats  sent  down  for  our  accommodation.  In 
all  knowledge  of  woodcraft  the  Indian  chiefs  are,  with  few 
exceptions,  lamentably  deficient.  Their  great  idea  of  "  Shikar  " 
is  to  go  forth  into  the  plain  or  woodland,  accompanied  by 
many  men  and  horses.  They  are  followed  by  servants  of  all 
descriptions,  bearing  emblems  of  office  ;  and  the  noise  of  this 
small  army,  as  may  be  supposed,  is  not  conducive  to  sport. 
But  the  arrangements  for  this  day  were  quite  unique. 

As  we  were  rowed  up  the  river  we  had  an  excellent  view 


230  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

of  the  town,  with  its  walls  overhanging  the  water.  Farther 
up,  on  the  right  bank,  we  observed  a  large  and  gaily-dressed 
crowd  ;  and  our  boatmen  and  attendant  ambassadors  informed 
us  that  the  Kajah  would  embark  at  that  point.  Screeching 
bands  of  music  now  struck  up,  and  several  boat-loads  of 
nautch-woinen  were  pushed  out  into  the  stream.  Then  came 
the  Kajah  in  a  gorgeous  boat,  accompanied  by  courtiers,  and 
surrounded  by  other  boats  filled  with  armed  men.  The  royal 
barge  was  pushed  up  alongside  of  our  own,  and,  after  an  inter- 
change of  compliments,  we  all  rowed  up  the  river  in  a  grand 
procession.  On  either  side  the  rocks  rose  high  and  steep ; 
and  I  noted  many  a  spot,  as  we  passed,  where  beasts  might  be 
expected  to  be  lying  hid  among  the  masses  of  stone  and  bush. 
At  length  we  came  to  a  number  of  men,  armed  to  the  teeth, 
standing  on  the  left  bank,  at  the  water's  edge.  For  some  dis- 
tance up  the  stream  a  fringe  of  broken  rocks  was  backed  by 
a  perpendicular  cliff ;  and  we  were  now  informed  that  "  the 
tiger"  had  been  seen  in  the  early  morning  to  secrete  him- 
self among  these  fragments.  In  order  that  the  king  and  his 
guests  might  prosecute  the  chase  without  possible  chance  of 
injury  to  themselves,  it  had  been  arranged  that  the  boats 
should  move  up  the  stream  for  some  distance  farther,  and, 
having  taken  up  a  position  beyond  the  springing  distance  of 
the  most  lively  tiger,  await  the  appearance  of  the  game.  The 
tiger  was  to  be  driven  from  the  rocks  by  the  armed  men  before 
mentioned. 

The  procession  again  moved  on,  and  for  the  moment  the 
musicians  ceased  to  blow,  but  the  splash  of  the  oars  might 
have  been  heard  a  mile  away,  and  the  noise  of  voices  was 
loud  and  incessant.  Presently  some  one  called  out  "The 
tiger ! "  and  we  then  saw  a  very  small  panther  bolting  along 


'ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  231 

the  river-side  150  yards  ahead  of  us.  Shots  were  fired  by 
king  and  courtiers,  but  the  panther  held  on  till  he  came  to  a 
fissure  in  the  rocks,  when  he  turned  up  into  the  forest,  and 
we  saw  him  no  more.  So  ended  the  grand  hunting-party,  in 
which  five  or  six  hundred  men  had  been  engaged.  The  Eajah 
lamented  our  bad  luck ;  we  replied  that  the  tiger  had  still 
some  days  to  live.  Eemarks  complimentary  to  ourselves  and 
derogatory  to  tigers  were  interchanged ;  the  bands  again 
struck  up  ;  the  nautch- women  commenced  to  yell ;  and  we 
rowed  back  to  the  town,  where  we  parted  from  our  host,  and 
returned  to  camp.  Poor  man !  he  had  done  the  best  he  could 
for  us  according  to  his  lights. 

Some  of  the  officers  of  the  force  went  out  hog-hunting ; 
but  as  I  did  not  wish  to  risk  laming  horses  on  the  line  of 
march,  I  abstained  from  this  sport.  However,  I  went  after 
deer  in  company  with  our  Quartermaster-General ;  and,  at  a 
short  distance  from  camp,  came  on  three  chinkara  grazing  in 
some  cultivated  ground.  Working  our  cart  towards  them  I 
dropped  one  with  each  barrel.  The  third  trotted  off  a  short 
distance,  and  then,  standing,  looked  about  for  his  comrades. 
Quickly  reloading,  I  again  fired,  and  we  picked  up  the  three 
antelopes. 

As  the  force  was  to  cross  the  Chumbul  on  the  following 
day,  we  proceeded  to  examine  the  ford,  and  as  we  descended 
to  the  river  I  saw  a  large  alligator  basking  on  a  mud  bank. 
He  was  broadside  on,  about  sixty  yards  off,  and  lay  motion- 
less, with  his  jaws  apart.  I  fired,  and  struck  him  in  the 
neck.  His  head  dropped,  and  he  lay  quite  dead.  We  then 
descended  and  cut  off  his  head,  which  we  carried  away  as 
a  trophy.  On  our  way  to  camp  my  companion  shot  a  buck 
chinkara. 

Leaving  Kotah,   we  proceeded  to   Nusserabad  by  easy 


232 


WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 


marches.  General  Michel  was  fond  of  shooting,  and  when 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  halting  grounds  he  and  I  generally 
left  the  column  and  rode  away  across  the  country  in  search 
of  some  lake  or  swamp  where  we  might  find  wild  ducks. 
These  were  very  plentiful.  Our  guns  were  carried  hy  men 
in  rear  of  the  column,  mounted  on  riding  dromedaries,  who 
could  keep  up  with  our  horses  at  a  canter.  We  usually 
joined  the  camp  in  the  forenoon,  and  always  had  a  good  bag 
of  ducks  to  share  with  our  friends. 

Throughout  this  march  I  lived  in  a  small  tent  twelve  feet 
square,  known  as  a  "  pal."  In  shape  it  closely  resembled  the 
ordinary  cottage  of  Scotland,  having  a  ridge  and  two  gable  ends, 
in  one  of  which  was  the  door.  The  side  walls  were  only  four 
feet  in  height.  It  was  supported  by  a  long  stick  under  the 
ridge,  resting  on  two  poles  at  the  ends.  This  tent  was  simply 
a  large  bag,  and  could  be  struck  or  pitched  in  a  few  minutes. 
Its  principal  fault  was  want  of  rigidity  in  high  wind,  but  this 
was  counterbalanced  by  its  portability.  Here  the  various 
members  of  the  staff  camp  assembled  nightly  after  dining  in 
their  own  tents,  and  honoured  me  with  their  company  till 
bed-time.  The  General  lay  extended  on  my  bed,  his  Aide- 
de-camp  reposed  in  my  arm-chair,  while  round  the  table  in 
chairs,  and  ranged  along  the  edge  of  the  bed,  sat  the  Assistant 
Adjutant-General,  Assistant  Quartermaster-General,  Brigade- 
Major,  Postmaster,  Commandant  of  Artillery,  Inspector- 
General  of  Hospitals,  and  any  friends  who  had  dined  with 
them.  The  weather  was  sufficiently  cold  to  enable  us  to  ap- 
preciate a  tumbler  of  hot  whisky-toddy,  and  we  spent  our 
evenings  very  pleasantly,  notwithstanding  the  certainty  that 
sorrow  would  return  long  before  the  dawning  of  morn,  and 
that  at  2  A.M.  "  the  general "  would  sound,  to  be  too  surely 
followed  by  the  "  assembly  "  at  3. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  233 

Throughout  the  native  states  in  Malwa  and  Eajpootana 
we  were  much  annoyed  by  thieves  at  night,  and  the  dexterity 
of  these  villains  was  wonderful.  With  greased  bodies  they 
wriggled  along  the  ground  between  the  sentries,  and  stole 
articles  from  tents  filled  with  soldiers.  Night  after  night 
they  entered  the  tents  of  the  officers,  taking  away  anything 
which  they  could  move.  I  almost  alone  escaped,  possibly 
because  I  was  known  to  be  the  "  Political  Sahib,"  but  more 
probably  owing  to  the  watchful  guardianship  of  a  black  and 
tan  terrier  at  the  foot  of 'my  bed. 

While  we  marched  leisurely  towards  Nusserabad,  the 
wretched  Tantia  was  kept  moving,  and  nowhere  could  he  find 
rest  for  the  sole  of  his  foot.  Column  after  column  darted  out 
from  the  British  cantonments,  all  acting  in  unison,  and  all 
bent  on  avenging  Cawnpore.  For  seven  months  we  had  been 
perpetually  on  his  track,  and  it  was  now  certain  that  his 
diminished  band  of  men  and  horses  could  not  hold  out  much 
longer.  Driven  through  Marwar  by  the  Nusserabad  force, 
they  crossed  the  hills  into  Meywar,  where  they  found  us  in 
readiness  to  take  up  the  pursuit.  At  this  time  it  had  become 
generally  known  throughout  India  that  the  royal  amnesty 
which  had  been  proclaimed  was  lona  fide,  and,  acting  on  the 
faith  of  it,  about  200  of  Tantia's  men  came  in  and  laid  down 
their  arms.  The  remainder  fled  again  across  Malwa,  dispers- 
ing as  they  went,  till  Tantia,  deserted  by  his  followers,  sought 
refuge  with  a  chief  of  the  Gwalior  territory  who  was  in  rebel- 
lion against  Scindiah.  This  man,  anxious  to  secure  the  good 
offices  of  the  British  in  effecting  a  reconciliation  between 
himself  and  his  own  sovereign,  betrayed  Tantia  to  a  party 
sent  to  arrest  him.  The  latter  was  sent  to  Seepree,  where  he 
was  tried  and  hanged. 


234  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

General  Michel  marched  his  force  from  Neemuch  to  Shoja- 
wulpoor,  where  it  was  broken  up,  but  detachments  continued 
for  some  time  to  be  employed  in  hunting  down  the  predatory 
bands  which  had  been  brought  into  existence  by  the  rebellion, 
and  who  now  sought  shelter  in  the  jungle.  My  duties  with 
General  Michel  being  at  an  end,  I  was  directed  by  Sir  Robert 
Hamilton,  then  agent  to  the  Viceroy  for  Central  India,  to 
assume  the  temporary  charge  of  the  Political  Agency  in 
Bhopal. 


CHAPTEE   XV. 

Sehore— Guinea -"Worms — Man  killed  by  Tiger — Preparations  for  the  Hunt- 
Impatient  Sportsman — Pursuit — The  Tiger  checked— A  Charge— A 
Struggle  for  the  Mastery — The  Tiger  slain— Sirdarpore — Prospects  of 
Sport — Tigress  shot  at  Baug — Five  Bears  seen — Panther  shot — Tigress 
at  Bingnode  :  her  Death — A  Pony  speared — Opium  Cultivation. 

DURING  the  short  period  of  my  tenure  of  office  at  Sehore,  my 
official  duties  obliged  me  to  remain  at  my  post,  and  I  had 
but  little  leisure  for  the  chase.  The  country  was  still  in  an 
unsettled  state,  and  as  it  had  been  decreed  that  a  European 
force  should  be  located  at  Sironj,  I  was  employed  in  forward- 
ing men  and  material  for  the  construction  of  temporary 
barracks  at  that  place.  It  was  subsequently  abandoned,  as 
the  troops  suffered  much  from  fever,  and  a  number  of  men 
were  laid  up  with  guinea-worm  in  the  legs  and  feet.  How 
these  creatures  find  their  way  into  the  human  frame  is,  I 
believe,  a  mystery  to  medical  men.  They  appear  in  all  parts 
of  the  lower  limbs,  causing  intense  pain,  and  much  swelling  of 
the  afflicted  part.  The  worm,  which  is  sometimes  nearly  two 
feet  in  length  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  breadth,  lodges 
itself  among  the  muscles  and  tendons.  Shortly  before  it  ap- 
pears on  the  surface  of  the  skin  a  small  blister  rises,  and  soon 
after  the  head  of  the  worm  comes  out.  This  must  be  secured 
by  rolling  it  round  a  small  bit  of  cloth  or  other  substance, 
but  no  forcible  extraction  should  be  attempted.  The  part 
must  be  kept  moist  and  well  protected,  and  such  portion  of 


236  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

the  worm  as  can  be  easily  drawn  out,  is  daily  wound  round 
the  cloth  till  the  whole  comes  away.  Should  the  worm  be 
broken  by  force  or  accident,  it  will  recede  into  the  wound, 
where  it  dies,  causing  suppuration  and  great  pain  before  it 
is  finally  got  rid  of. 

A  few  miles  to  the  southward  of  Sehore  lies  a  scrub 
jungle  of  some  extent.  In  no  part  very  dense,  it  contains 
many  small  ravines,  filled  with  long  grass  and  thorny  bushes, 
affording  good  shelter  to  tigers,  which  occasionally  wander 
up  from  the  larger  coverts,  attracted  by  the  cattle  from  the 
surrounding  villages.  Late  one  afternoon  a  shikaree  whom 
we  had  stationed  at  this  spot  came  in  and  reported  that  a 
villager  had  just  been  killed  by  a  tiger.  The  man  with  two 
companions  had  been  gathering  gum  from  the  trees,  when 
the  tiger  rushed  out  on  them  from  a  patch  of  grass,  seizing 
him  in  his  teeth,  and  killing  him  on  the  spot.  His  comrades 
were  unarmed,  and  fled  to  the  village. 

It  was  too  late  to  do  anything  that  afternoon,  but  all  was 
prepared  for  an  early  start,  and  by  sunrise  next  morning  we 
had  ridden  out  to  the  jungle,  where  we  met  our  gun-bearers 
with  three  good  elephants.  I  was  accompanied  by  the  civil 
surgeon  and  the  adjutant  of  the  local  corps.  As  the  country 
was  very  open,  and  the  sun  was  still  low  in  the  heavens,  I 
urged  them  not  to  fire  long  shots  should  the  tiger  rise  on  the 
approach  of  the  elephants.  I  calculated  that  we  should  have 
no  difficulty  in  again  marking  him  down.  All  preliminaries 
being  arranged,  we  went  off  to  the  spot  where  the  tiger  had 
been  seen,  and  there,  face  downwards,  lay  the  body  of  the 
unfortunate  man.  His  clothes  were  torn,  and  a  quantity  of 
blood  was  on  the  ground ;  but  the  tiger  had  apparently  not 
been  hungry,  for  no  portion  of  the  body  was  eaten,  and  as 
it  had  lain  in  the  jungle  all  night,  we  were  not  sanguine. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  237 

Leaving  a  few  villagers  to  carry  home  the  dead  man,  we 
moved  into  some  grass  jungle,  having  previously  posted  men 
in  different  directions  on  high  trees,  with  orders  to  keep  a 
good  look-out.  The  adjutant  was  on  the  left,  the  doctor  in 
the  centre,  and  I  was  on  the  right  of  the  line.  We  had  not 
gone  far  before  the  tiger,  a  very  large  male,  rose  from  a  small 
watercourse  about  sixty  yards  on  my  right  front,  and  bounded 
up  the  opposite  bank.  He  was  too  far  off  to  allow  of  my 
shooting  with  certainty,  therefore,  trusting  that  he  would  lie 
up  in  the  next  thicket,  I  reserved  my  fire.  The  doctor,  how- 
ever, had  caught  sight  of  him,  and,  greatly  excited,  at  once 
loosed  his  piece.  I  saw  the  shots  strike  the  ground  wide  of 
the  tiger,  who  increased  his  pace,  and  went  off  giving  a  few 
angry  growls.  We  followed  him  up  at  once,  and  again  I 
implored  my  companions  not  to  fire  unless  they  were  certain 
that  they  could  do  so  with  good  effect. 

Half-a-mile  farther  on  we  again  started  the  tiger — this 
time  he  was  within  a  fair  range  of  the  doctor,  who,  however, 
missed  him,  and  we  feared  that  even  my  wonted  good  luck 
would  not  give  us  another  chance.  But  the  sun  was  now  high 
and  powerful,  and  as  we  knew  that  there  was  no  strong 
covert  within  several  miles,  we  followed  on  in  the  direction 
which  the  tiger  had  taken.  About  a  mile  ahead  we  came  up 
to  one  of  our  scouts  on  a  tree,  who  reported  that  the  tiger 
had  entered  the  bushes  which  fringed  the  edge  of  a  small  dry 
nullah  running  out  into  the  plain.  Quietly  forming  up  the 
three  elephants  in  line,  we  moved  slowly  on,  and  soon  after 
saw  the  tiger  going  off  about  eighty  yards  before  us.  As 
he  seemed  thoroughly  scared,  I  deemed  it  prudent  this  time 
to  fire,  on  the  chance  of  wounding  him.  The  doctor  also 
fired  at  the  same  moment,  and  the  tiger  lurched  heavily  to  one 
side  and  disappeared  among  the  bushes.  I  had  just  taken  up 


238  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

another  rifle,  and  we  were  cautiously  advancing,  when  the 
enraged  brute  rushed  to  meet  us.  He  was  within  twenty- 
paces  before  we  saw  him,  and  was  evidently  inclined  to  do 
mischief,  but  again  we  opened  fire  and  dropped  him.  He  rose, 
however,  in  an  instant,  and  again  came  on,  roaring  wickedly ; 
but,  apparently  not  caring  to  close  with  the  elephants,  he 
dashed  through  our  line  and  went  back  up  the  nullah. 

We  quickly  reloaded,  and  followed  him  up,  carefully  ex- 
amining every  bush  and  tuft  of  grass.  In  this  manner  we 
had  advanced  to  the  very  head  of  the  nullah,  which  terminated 
in  a  large  green  corinda  bush.  The  tiger  made  no  sign,  and 
we  began  to  fear  that  he  might  have  slunk  away  to  the  right 
or  left,  but,  determined  to  make  sure,  I  directed  my  mahout 
to  take  me  up  to  the  corinda  bush.  The  head  of  the  elephant 
had  almost  touched  the  foliage,  when  the  tiger,  now  mad  with 
rage,  sprang  at  him,  seizing  him  by  the  root  of  the  trunk  in 
his  teeth,  while  he  buried  his  claws  in  the  sides  of  his  face. 
With  a  frantic  shriek  the  elephant  dropped  his  head,  and 
endeavoured  to  pin  the  tiger  to  the  ground  with  his  tusks. 
It  was  a  moment  of  intense  excitement,  and  I  was  seriously 
alarmed  for  the  mahout,  who,  seated  on  the  neck  of  the 
elephant,  was  in  great  danger  of  being  thrown  down  between 
the  struggling  brutes.  My  own  situation  too  was  by  no 
means  pleasant,  for  I  was  thrown  forward  in  the  howdah,  and 
I  dreaded  lest  the  girths  should  give  way.  However,  the 
"  graith "  was  good,  and  I  kept  my  position,  and  as  the  ele- 
phant with  a  desperate  effort  shook  off  the  tiger,  I  found  I  had 
retained  my  three  guns  uninjured. 

The  tiger  made  off  down  the  nullah  before  I  could  again 
fire,  and  it  was  some  time  before  the  elephant,  who  continued 
to  dance  and  shriek  with  rage,  could  be  sufficiently  quieted 
to  enable  us  to  follow  after  him.  Throughout  the  struggle, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        239 

my  companions,  though  only  a  few  paces  off,  were  unable  to 
render  any  assistance,  fearing  to  fire  lest  they  might  hit  the 
elephant.  About  100  yards  down  the  nullah  we  came  on  the 
tiger,  crouching  under  a  bank.  He  at  once  charged,  and  this 
time  left  the  marks  of  his  teeth  and  claws  in  the  head  of  the 
adjutant's  elephant ;  but  he  was  now  less  lively,  and  one  or  two 
shots  put  in  with  effect  rolled  him  over.  He  was  a  fine  beast, 
a  male  of  the  largest  size,  with  a  rich  dark  skin.  He  was, 
moreover,  very  shaggy  about  the  sides  of  the  head,  and  was 
altogether  a  good  specimen. 

Soon  after  this  I  was  transferred  to  the  appointment  of 
Bheel  agent  at  Sirdarpore,  in  Western  Malwa,  to  which  was 
added  the  command  of  the  local  corps.  The  station  had  been 
burnt  during  the  mutiny,  and  presented  a  most  forlorn  appear- 
ance. The  houses  of  the  commandant  and  adjutant  were 
heaps  of  blackened  ruins,  and  the  hospital  and  guard-rooms 
were  unroofed.  The  site  of  the  regimental  lines  was  marked 
by  heaps  of  rubbish.  It  being  desirable  that  we  should  be 
under  shelter  before  the  next  rainy  season,  we  set  vigorously 
to  work  to  collect  material.  Wood  had  to  be  cut,  and  carted 
from  the  jungles,  lime  to  be  dug  and  burnt,  and  bricks,  both 
sun  and  kiln  dried,  to  be  made.  However,  we  worked  with 
a  will,  and  in  a  few  months  were  comfortably  settled  down. 
While  the  work  was  going  on  I  made  one  or  two  hurried 
tours  through  the  district  under  my  charge,  but  had  not  much 
time  to  devote  to  large  game  shooting.  I  saw  enough  of  the 
country  to  enable  me  to  form  a  very  favourable  opinion  of  the 
prospect  of  sport.  The  extent  of  ground  within  my  beat  was 
in  parts  80  miles  in  breadth  by  150  in  length,  and  comprised 
many  fine  tracts  of  forest  and  mountain. 

Having  occasion  to  visit  Baug,  a  small  town  about  three 
marches  to  the  southward  of  Sirdarpore,  I  sent  out  my  Sepoy 


240  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

escort  with  some  of  the  Bheels  of  the  place  to  endeavour  to 
mark  down  a  tiger,  and  about  mid-day  I  got  word  that  one  had 
been  tracked  into  an  old  iron-pit  in  the  jungle.  I  at  once 
went  out,  and  on  reaching  the  spot  we  had  a  consultation  as 
to  the  position  which  I  was  to  take  up  to  give  me  the  best 
chance  of  a  shot.  The  Bheels  were  in  favour  of  one  tree, 
while  I  set  my  heart  on  another ;  and  at  length,  yielding  to 
their  supposed  superior  knowledge  of  the  locality,  I  gave  in, 
and  climbing  up  sent  them  round  to  start  the  beast.  A  tigress 
soon  appeared,  trotting  lazily  along,  and  I  had  the  mortifica- 
tion of  seeing  her  pass  out  of  range  and  under  the  very  tree 
in  which  I  had  wished  to  sit.  Quietly  descending,  I  stopped 
the  beaters  from  coming  on,  and  mounting  my  elephant  I  went 
off  in  the  direction  she  had  taken.  I  had  not  gone  200  yards 
before  I  came  on  her  sitting  at  the  foot  of  a  small  tree,  and 
apparently  careless  of  our  approach.  As  I  advanced  she  rose 
and  disappeared  over  a  small  hill  in  the  jungle.  I  followed, 
and  on  reaching  the  summit  I  saw  her  standing  in  the  hollow 
below  me.  I  fired,  striking  her  near  the  spine,  but  though 
much  disabled  she  succeeded  in  reaching  an  old  iron-pit,  in 
which  she  disappeared. 

My  men  handed  me  a  number  of  large  stones,  which  I 
placed  in  the  howdah,  and,  directing  the  mahout  to  move  the 
elephant  up  to  the  edge  of  the  pit,  I  hurled  the  boulders  into 
the  hole.  The  tigress  would  not  show,  and  after  some  time 
my  men  came  up  with  their  bayonets  at  the  charge,  and  from 
the  spot  where  they  stood  could  see  the  wounded  tigress  as 
she  lay  under  a  ledge  of  rock  in  a  corner  of  the  cave.  I 
descended  from  the  elephant,  and  while  I  stood  ready  to 
receive  the  tigress,  if  she  should  charge,  the  top  of  a  tree, 
which  had  been  left  by  woodcutters,  was  rolled  by  the  men 
over  the  mouth  of  the  pit,  thereby  effectually  securing  us 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        241 

against  a  sudden  rush  of  the  wounded  beast.  She  was  then 
killed  by  a  shot  between  the  eyes,  and  was  with  difficulty 
lifted  out. 

I  heard  of  more  tigers  in  this  neighbourhood,  but  had  no 
time  to  hunt  them,  as  I  was  obliged  to  return  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  cantonment  at  Sirdarpore.  I  therefore  pushed 
on,  and  on  ascending  the  Vindyah  range,  went  out  in  quest  of 
bears.  I  fell  in  with  five  of  these  one  morning  ;  two  in  one 
ravine,  two  in  another,  and  a  huge  old  fellow  by  himself.  I 
was  very  unlucky  with  them  ;  and  though  I  wounded  two  I 
bagged  none.  However,  I  was  consoled  in  some  measure  by 
securing  a  fine  panther,  which  I  shot  from  a  tree  on  the  rushy 
bank  of  a  small  watercourse,  which  ran  through  cultivated 
lands. 

Several  native  chiefs  having  come  to  my  camp  on  business, 
it  was  suggested  that  we  should  get  up  a  shooting  party,  and 
I  accordingly  sent  out  some  of  my  best  shikarees  in  several 
directions.  About  noon  next  day,  a  horseman  came  in  and 
announced  that  two  bears  had  been  marked  down  in  a  ravine 
about  six  miles  off,  near  the  village  of  Eingnode.  I  sent  word 
to  the  chiefs,  and  they  soon  assembled  with  their  usual  motley 
array  of  followers,  armed  with  guns,  spears,  and  swords.  They 
also  brought  two  elephants,  but  were  doubtful  whether  they 
would  stand  a  charge.  I  ordered  out  my  own,  which,  though 
by  no  means  perfect,  was  tolerably  steady. 

These  being  sent  forward,  we  followed  an  hour  later  on 
horseback,  and  on  arriving  near  the  jungle,  I  was  met  by  a 
horseman  whom  I  had  sent  out  with  the  markers  on  the  pre- 
vious day.  This  man  assured  me  he  had  marked  a  tiger 
in  some  thick  corinda  bushes,  lying  on  the  bank  of  the  nullah 
in  which  I  had  shot  the  panther  a  few  days  before.  I  sup- 
posed that  he  must  have  seen  another  panther,  which  his  ex- 

R 


242  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

citement  had  magnified  into  the  nobler  animal,  but  he  per- 
sisted that  it  was  a  tiger  proper,  which  had  retired  into  the 
thicket  to  feast  on  a  wild  pig  which  it  had  killed  in  the  early 
morning. 

Leaving  the  main  body  of  my  companions  I  went  for- 
ward to  examine  the  place  and  fix  on  the  plan  of  action. 
Through  a  finely  timbered  and  cultivated  country  ran  a  small 
watercourse,  at  this  season  quite  dry,  but  fringed  with  high 
dead  grass,  and  having  at  one  spot,  on  both  banks,  masses  of 
corinda  bushes,  twenty  yards  in  depth  by  two  hundred  in 
length.  Outside  were  open  fields,  from  which  the  opium  crop 
had  been  recently  gathered. 

Having  no  confidence  in  the  shooting  of  the  chiefs,  and 
being  at  the  same  time  anxious  to  give  them  an  opportunity 
of  distinguishing  themselves,  I  directed  them  to  advance  down 
the  nullah  on  the  elephants,  while  I  went  quietly  forward 
on  foot,  and  mounted  a  tree  at  the  farther  end  of  the 
thicket. 

As  the  elephants  came  on,  the  tigress,  for  such  it  was, 
showed  herself  for  an  instant,  and  then  retiring  under  a  dense 
mass  of  green  foliage,  lay  perfectly  quiet.  Shots  were  fired 
and  stones  were  hurled,  but  she  would  not  move,  and  even 
had  the  strong  thorns  not  been  too  much  for  the  elephants,  I 
do  not  think  the  chiefs  would  have  cared  to  go  up  to  the  spot 
where  she  lay  concealed. 

At  length  I  determined  to  alter  our  tactics,  and  shouting 
to  the  others  to  clear  out  of  the  bushes,  I  left  my  tree  and 
mounted  another  at  the  other  end  of  the  covert.  A  strong 
wind  was  blowing  towards  me,  and  I  directed  my  men  to  fire 
the  grass  at  the  far  end  of  the  thicket.  In  a  few  minutes  the 
high  grass  was  burning  fiercely,  but  the  ground  under  the 
green  bushes  was  bare,  and  the  tigress,  having  chosen  her  posi- 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        243 

tion  well,  made  no  sign.  The  fire  soon  died  away,  and  as  it 
was  now  near  sunset  I  feared  that  we  should  go  home  empty- 
handed.  Just  then,  the  horseman  who  had  marked  down  the 
tigress  came  running  up  to  my  tree,  and  implored  me  to  go  in 
with  him  on  my  own  elephant,  leaving  all  the  rest  of  the  party 
outside.  He  was  greatly  excited,  and  having  taken  off  his  long 
riding-boots  and  drawn  his  sword,  stood  ready  to  guide  me  to 
the  bush  in  which  the  tiger  lay  concealed. 

I  called  up  the  elephant  and  went  forward,  my  guide 
leading ;  presently  he  lay  down  on  the  ground,  and  peering 
under  the  bushes  assured  me  that  he  could  see  the  tiger.  I 
directed  him  to  mount  a  tree,  and  as  soon  as  I  saw  he  was 
in  safety,  I  ordered  the  mahout  to  drive  the  elephant  forward. 
This  he  at  once  did,  and  at  that  instant  the  tigress  charged. 
The  elephant  stepped  back  till  it  was  clear  of  the  bushes.  The 
tigress  burst  out,  I  fired  down,  striking  her  through  the  loins, 
and  as  she  fell  over,  the  elephant  turned  and  fled.  It  was 
soon,  however,  brought  up  by  the  mahout,  and  we  again  ad- 
vanced at  the  thicket  into  which  the  tigress  had  disappeared. 

But  she  was  now  very  savage,  and  as  we  approached,  she 
came  charging  out  into  the  open  ground.  Again  the  elephant 
spun  round  and  went  off,  and  as  I  looked  over  her  stern,  I  saw 
the  tigress,  in  spite  of  her  wound,  fast  gaining  on  us.  Two 
more  strides,  and  she  would  have  seized  the  elephant  by  the 
hind  leg,  but  at  that  moment  I  grasped  the  front  rail  of  the 
howdah  in  my  left  hand,  and  firing  my  rifle  pistol-fashion,  I 
dropped  her  in  the  middle  of  an  open  field.  The  flight  of  the 
elephant  was  soon  checked,  and  finding  that  the  tigress  did  not 
come  on,  she  permitted  herself  to  be  driven  up  close  enough  to 
allow  me  to  put  an  end  to  the  scrimmage  by  a  final  shot. 

The  whole  affair  had  been  witnessed  by  the  chiefs,  who, 
with  their  followers,  were  standing  together  about  two  hundred 


244  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

yards  from  the  scene  of  the  conflict.  I  did  think  once  or 
twice  that  I  heard  the  ping  of  a  stray  bullet,  but  if  I  did,  they 
sped  harmlessly.  All  hands  soon  assembled  round  the  tiger, 
and  loud  and  energetic  were  the  exclamations  of  "  Wah ! 
Wah ! "  as  the  opium-boxes  were  passed  freely  round. 

Soon  after  we  mounted  our  horses  and  were  on  our  way 
back  to  the  camp,  when  we  came  on  the  body  of  a  dead  pony 
over  which  an  elderly  cultivator  stood,  rending  the  air  with 
his  lamentations.  He  said  his  pony  had  been  killed  by  a 
spear-thrust  from  one  of  the  chiefs  in  my  train,  and  as  he 
named  the  man,  I  directed  him  to  attend  next  morning, 
promising  to  inquire  into  his  case.  I  requested  two  of  the 
chiefs  to  settle  it,  and  they  adjudicated  their  neighbour  to 
pay  twenty-five  rupees  as  compensation.  In  the  defence  it 
was  stated  that  the  pony,  with  the  cheerful  playfulness  of  his 
race,  had  come  too  near  the  plump  and  well-fed  mare  of  the 
stalwart  Rajpoot,  who  had  received  him  on  the  point  of  his 
lance. 

The  land  where  this  tiger  was  shot  was  for  the  most  part 
cropped  with  poppies.  The  opium-cultivation  is  greatly 
attended  to  by  the  population  of  Malwa,  and  a  large  portion 
of  the  land-revenue  is  derived  from  this  source.  The  poppies 
are  generally  grown  on  the  best  ground.  The  land  is  fre- 
quently ploughed  and  manured  to  the  fullest  extent  practicable. 
A  strong  supply  of  water  from  wells  or  rivers  is  essential. 

The  ground  is  usually  divided  into  small  beds  about  eight 
feet  square,  separated  from  each  other  by  ridges  of  earth,  and 
all  connected  by  runnels  with  a  main  channel  leading  from 
the  water.  On  the  seed  being  sown,  the  water  is  turned  on, 
and  while  one  man  with  a  pair  of  bullocks  keeps  the  stream 
running  from  the  well,  another  is  employed  diverting  it  into 
the  different  divisions  of  the  field  till  the  whole  is  irrigated. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         245 

The  water  is  raised  either  by  a  rude  Persian  wheel  or  "by  a 
leathern  bag  worked  with  a  long  rope  over  a  wheel  fixed  above 
the  well.  The  Persian  wheel  is  simply  a  drum,  over  which 
passes  a  chain  of  earthen  pots  attached  to  a  rope  :  these  fill 
as  they  touch  the  water,  and  on  ascending,  empty  themselves 
into  a  trough,  whence  the  stream  passes  on  to  the  land  to  be 
watered. 

As  the  poppies  come  into  flower  the  fields  present  a  very 
gay  appearance.  Some  cultivators  prefer  one  colour — white, 
red,  or  purple — others  go  in  for  variety.  The  irrigations  are 
repeated  about  eight  times  during  the  growth  of  the  crop. 
When  the  flower  falls  the  work  of  collecting  the  opium  com- 
mences. 

Armed  with  small  instruments  having  three  short  steel 
points,  the  cultivator  and  all  his  household  go  over  the  whole 
field,  carefully  scoring  each  poppy-head.  From  the  wound 
thus  inflicted  a  milky  juice  exudes,  and  in  a  few  hours  assumes 
a  dark  colour,  and  becomes  consistent.  This  is  then  scraped 
off  with  a  small  blunt  knife,  and  the  opium  thus  collected  is 
carefully  stored.  Each  poppy-head  is  scored  and  scraped 
three  times.  When  dry,  the  heads  are  collected,  and  the 
seed  shaken  out.  Much  of  the  opium  is  consumed  in  the 
country,  but  the  greater  part  is  exported  to  China.  Previous 
to  its  transport  to  the  coast  a  high  duty  is  paid  to  the  British 
Government.  This  duty  varies  according  to  circumstances. 
It  is  now  £60,  and  has  stood  as  high  as  £70  per  chest  of 
140  Ibs. 

In  Bengal,  licenses  to  cultivate  opium  are  granted  on  the 
understanding  that  the  juice  is  to  be  delivered  at  a  fixed  price 
to  the  Government  factories  at  Patna  and  Benares.  It  is 
there  manufactured,  previous  to  being  sent  down  to  Calcutta, 
where  it  is  disposed  of,  at  monthly  sales,  by  auction. 


246  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

The  net  average  amount  of  our  opium  revenue  during  the 
last  five  years,  for  which  the  accounts  have  been  laid  before 
Parliament,  has  been  £5,781,890. 

In  the  year  1867-68,  the  last  for  which  the  accounts  have 
been  laid  before  the  House,  it  rose,  after  all  expenses  had  been 
paid,  to  £7,049,447 — between  one-fifth  and  one-sixth  of  our 
whole  net  revenue. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Sooltanpoor  Kavine — Tiger  seen — Man  wounded — Second  visit — Tiger  slain 
— Tiger  shot  "by  Ward — Tiger  shot — Ward's  shooting — Good  Pistol-prac- 
tice— Florican  shooting — Hyaena — Panther  shot  in  Dhar — Hyaena-trap — 
Mandoo — Tigress  shot — Bears  at  Burmundel — Bears  at  Buckutgurh — 
Dhotreea — Tigress  shot — Intense  Heat— Bear  shot  on  the  Mhye — Ramla 
—A  Habitual  Criminal  Act. 

FIVE  miles  westward  of  the  town  of  Dhar,  near  the  village  of 
Sooltanpoor,  lies  a  fine  ravine  which  has  long  been  celebrated 
as  a  haunt  of  tigers.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  one  of  the  count- 
less streams  which,  rising  in  the  Vindyah  range,  find  their 
way  down  to  the  Nerbudda. 

Near  the  head  of  the  gorge  is  a  dense  mass  of  corinda 
thicket,  under  which  runs  a  clear  stream  ;  and  hearing  that  a 
tiger  had  been  seen  in  its  neighbourhood  I  started  from  my 
camp  at  Dhar  in  search  of  him.  I  had  no  regular  shikaree 
with  me,  and  had  to  make  the  best  arrangement  in  my  power 
with  the  men  at  my  disposal.  On  reaching  the  ground  I 
selected  a  tree,  close  to  the  edge  of  the  stream,  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  covert,  and  sending  the  men  to  beat  down  from  the 
head  of  the  ravine,  I  mounted  on  a  branch  and  awaited  their 
approach.  Before  long  I  saw  a  very  large  male  tiger  leave 
the  bushes  on  my  right  front,  and  skirting  the  side  of  the 
ravine,  it  passed  over  a  stony  ridge  into  the  next  gorge.  I 
quickly  descended  and  followed  on  the  track  with  some  men, 
but  the  ground  was  very  hard  and  stony,  and  we  could  make 
nothing  of  it. 


248  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Just  then  I  was  informed  that  one  of  the  men  whom  I 
had  sent  to  beat  had  been  wounded  by  another  tiger,  and  on 
returning  to  the  covert  I  found  a  man  slightly  bitten  in  the 
shoulder.  Neglecting  my  strict  injunctions  that  all  should 
keep  together,  this  man  had  wandered  away  by  himself,  and 
was  coming  down  the  bank  by  a  footpath,  close  to  where  I  had 
been  posted,  when  a  second  tiger,  which  had  come  forward  to 
the  end  of  the  covert,  rushed  out  on  him,  biting  him  as 
described.  His  wounds  were  not  serious,  and  he  had  only 
himself  to  thank  for  his  troubles. 

Not  wishing  to  disturb  these  tigers  that  evening,  I  re- 
turned to  camp,  and  arranged  for  another  attempt  on  them  a 
few  days  later.  This  time  I  placed  men  on  trees  on  both  sides 
of  the  ravine,  directing  them  to  throw  stones  and  drive 
the  tiger  back,  should  he  attempt  to  break  up  the  side. 

I  soon  heard  a  troop  of  monkeys  swearing  in  the  thicket 
above  me.  Some  of  the  men  on  the  banks  also  telegraphed 
that  a  tiger  was  on  foot.  My  position  was  unpleasantly  near 
the  ground,  but  it  was  the  best  that  could  be  got,  and  I 
quietly  waited  for  the  beast  to  show.  In  a  few  minutes  he 
walked  out  and  stood  on  the  path  close  to  the  spot  on  which 
the  man  had  been  wounded  on  the  previous  occasion.  I  fired, 
and  he  spun  round  and  disappeared  in  the  bushes.  A  few 
seconds  later  he  broke  cover  near  the  top  of  the  bank  above 
me,  and  was  going  off  at  a  good  pace.  I  had  a  fine  view  of 
him  as  he  passed  along  the  sky-line,  some  seventy  paces  above 
me,  and  firing  quickly,  I  saw  him  swerve  over,  and  observed 
his  hind  leg  dangling  from  the  stifle.  He  then  turned  down 
the  bank,  and  threw  himself  into  a  thick  corinda  bush,  where 
he  lay  quiet.  Calling  out  to  the  beaters  to  give  me  time 
to  take  up  a  fresh  position,  I  descended,  and  making  a  circuit, 
climbed  another  tree  lower  down  the  ravine. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         249 

The  men  then  came  on  in  a  close  body  along  the  top  of 
the  bank,  down  which  they  hurled  volleys  of  stones.  On  their 
arriving  near  the  spot  in  which  the  tiger  had  lain  up,  he  made 
an  attempt  to  move,  but  his  hind-quarter  was  quite  disabled, 
and  the  men  called  out  to  me  to  come  and  finish  him.  I  pro- 
ceeded cautiously,  as,  though  unable  to  ascend  the  steep  bank 
to  where  the  beaters  stood,  the  tiger  might  have  rushed  down 
on  me.  His  attention  was  however  occupied ;  and  on  reaching 
the  men  I  formed  them  into  a  compact  phalanx.  We  then 
advanced  on  the  bush,  and  as  the  tiger  scrambled  out  towards 
us,  I  laid  him  low  with  a  shot  through  the  neck. 

I  subsequently  visited  this  ravine  with  Captain  Ward, 
who  succeeded  me  as  superintendent  of  the  Dhar  state. 
I  placed  him  in  the  same  tree,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of 
seeing  a  fine  tiger  move  down  the  covert  towards  him.  I  was 
mounted  on  a  tree  on  the  left  bank,  and  might  have  fired 
effectually,  but  I  wished  my  friend  to  get  the  shot.  The 
tiger  went  on,  and  was  passing  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
muzzle  of  his  rifle,  when  he  fired,  wounding  him  through  the 
shoulder.  The  beast  dashed  forward,  and  disappeared  over  a 
mass  of  rocks,  150  yards  farther  down  the  ravine.  We  fol- 
lowed after  on  an  elephant,  and  finding  him  much  disabled, 
gave  him  the  coup  de  grace.  After  this,  Ward  and  I  shot 
together  whenever  we  could  find  time  and  opportunity.  I 
have  shot  with  many  men,  but  I  never  met  with  one  so  sure 
with  rifle,  gun,  or  pistol.  He  always  carried  a  Colt's  revolver 
in  his  belt,  and  as  he  was  in  constant  practice,  some  of  his 
shots  astonished  me. 

One  evening  when  out  riding,  we  observed  several  vul- 
tures seated  on  a  hillock.  Ward  dismounted,  and  supporting 
his  right  with  his  left  arm,  he  fired  his  revolver,  remarking 
that  he  would  move  them.  One  of  the  vultures  fell  over 


250  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

dead,  the  others  flew  away.  Next  morning  I  measured  the 
distance  with  a  cord,  and  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  the  bird 
was  shot  at  375  yards  from  the  muzzle  of  the  pistol.  The 
weapon  was  a  medium-size  Colt's  revolver. 

While  I  was  at  Dhar  I  occasionally  shot  florican  in  the 
grass  plains  to  the  east  of  the  town.  As  the  grass  was  two  and 
three  feet  high,  I  ordered  out  all  the  horsemen  in  the  place, 
and  forming  them  into  a  long  line,  we  beat  tKe  ground  care- 
fully. With  seventy  men  I  could  cover  a  good  bit  of  country, 
and  when  a  bird  rose,  I  dismounted  and  followed  him  on  foot, 
generally  bagging  him  on  the  second  rise.  On  these  plains  we 
occasionally  started  antelopes.  Hyaenas  and  wolves  too  were 
met  with.  I  had  a  rifle  carried  by  one  of  my  men,  and  one  even- 
ing observing  the  head  of  a  hyaena  peering  over  the  grass  about 
150  yards  ahead  of  us,  I  fired  and  rolled  him  over  dead. 

One  morning  a  man  sent  me  word  that  there  was  a  pan- 
ther in  his  house  in  the  town  of  Dhar.  Knowing  that  there 
were  generally  panthers  about  the  gardens  and  sugar-cane 
fields  outside  the  town,  I  at  once  went  to  his  house,  which  I 
found  surrounded  by  a  number  of  people.  The  panther  was 
said  to  be  concealed  among  a  heap  of  lumber  in  a  dark  loft, 
so  I  mounted  on  the  roof  and  proceeded  to  remove  the  tiles. 
The  open  bamboos  on  which  they  were  supported  guarded 
me  from  any  sudden  charge ;  and  it  was  well  for  me  that 
they  were  there,  for  the  panther  made  a  rush  at  the  opening, 
but  was  shot  through  the  head,  and  fell  back  dead.  I  had 
previously  taken  the  precaution  to  clear  all  the  people  out  of 
the  lower  part  of  the  house,  and  could  therefore  fire  down 
with  safety.  The  panther  was  about  two-thirds  grown.  He 
had  probably  entered  the  town  at  night  in  quest  of  a  pariah 
dog,  and  b'  ing  scared  by  some  early  riser,  had  taken  refuge  in 
the  loft  where  we  found  him. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         251 

Acting  on  the  advice  of  a  brother  in  Ceylon,  I  caused  an 
iron  trap  for  panthers  to  be  constructed.  It  was  like  a  huge 
rat-trap,  but  was  furnished  with  springs  at  both  ends,  and 
weighed  about  60  Ibs.  I  caught  several  hyaenas,  and  two  in- 
cautious natives,  but  though  it  was  on  one  or  two  occasions 
sprung  by  panthers,  none  were  caught.  One  evening,  when 
camped  with  Ward  near  Kode  in  the  Dhar  district,  we  baited 
this  trap  with  a  dead  dog,  and  set  it  near  a  road  leading  to 
the  village.  Next  morning  the  trap  had  been  dragged  away 
to  some  distance,  and  between  the  jaws  we  found  the  forefoot 
of  a  hyaena. 

Soon  after  this  I  visited  Mandoo,  a  grand  though  now 
ruined  and  deserted  city  on  the  crest  of  the  Vindyah  moun- 
tains, overlooking  the  province  of  Nimar.  According  to 
Ferishta,  Alif  Khan  (the  son  of  Dilawur  Khan),  who  became 
celebrated  under  the  name  of  Hoshung  Shah,  removed  the 
seat  of  the  government  of  Malwa  from  Dhar  to  Mandoo,  A.D. 
1404.  Mandoo  lies  fifteen  miles  south-east  of  Dhar,  and  had 
been  irregularly  fortified,  according  to  Hindoo  accounts,  by 
a  prince  named  Jey  Sing  Deo,  who,  according  to  Hindoo 
fable,  was  assisted  in  accomplishing  his  work  by  the  pos- 
session of  the  Parus  Puttur,  or  philosopher's  stone,  which 
was  found  during  his  reign  by  a  grass-cutter.  Its  properties 
were  discovered  by  a  blacksmith,  who  carried  it  to  Jey  Sing 
Deo,  who,  after  using  it  to  make  gold  enough  to  defray  the 
expense  of  building  Mandoo,  is  said  to  have  given  it  to  the 
priest  of  his  family,  who,  displeased  at  receiving  a  stone,  threw 
it,  before  its  value  was  explained  to  him,  into  the  Nerbudda. 
When  sensible  of  what  he  had  done  he  sprang  into  the 
river,  in  the  vain  hope  of  recovering  it,  but  his  efforts  to  reach 
the  bottom  were  in  vain.  Credulous  Hindoos  believe  that  at 
the  place  where  this  occurred  the  Nerbudda  became  and  con- 
tinues unfathomable. 


252  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

The  site  of  Mandoo  was  very  inviting ;  the  mountain 
chosen  by  Hoshung  Shah  for  his  future  capital  is  said  to  be 
thirty-seven  miles  in  circumference.  It  extends  along  the 
crest  of  the  Vindyah  range  about  eight  miles,  and  is  parted 
from  the  table-land  of  Malwa,  with  which  it  is  upon  a  level, 
by  abrupt  and  rugged  valleys  of  great  depth  and  width,  which 
descend  from  either  side  of  the  main  gateway,  both  to  the 
east  and  west,  to  the  low  country.  On  the  brink  of  these 
valleys,  and  on  the  summit  of  the  ridge  of  the  Vindyah 
mountains,  which  form  the  southern  face  of  Mandoo,  a  wall  of 
considerable  height  was  built,  which,  added  to  the  natural 
strength  of  the  ground,  made  it  unassailable  by  any  but  regu- 
lar attack  ;  and  this  advantage,  which  gave  security  to  property, 
combined  with  the  salubrity  of  the  air,  abundance  of  water, 
and  the  rich  nature  of  the  ground  that  was  encircled  within 
the  limits  of  the  new  capital,  caused  it  early  to  attain  a  state 
of  great  prosperity. 

Hoshung  Ghoree  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Ghiznee  Khan, 
a  weak  and  dissolute  sovereign,  who  was  dethroned  by  his 
minister,  Mahomed  Khiljee,  to  whom  Mandoo  owed  its  fame 
and  splendour  ;  and  the  magnificent  tomb  over  Hoshung  Shah, 
and  the  college  and  palaces  that  he  built,  give  testimony  of  his 
respect  for  the  memory  of  his  benefactor,  and  of  a  regard  and 
consideration  for  his  subjects,  which  entitle  him  to  the  high 
reputation  he  has  attained  among  the  Mahomedan  princes  of 
India. 

Tor  the  above  description  of  Mandoo  I  have  drawn  largely 
on  Sir  John  Malcolm's  Memoir  on  Central  India.  The  glory 
of  Mandoo  has  indeed  departed,  and  save  by  a  few  Bheels  and 
a  stray  Mahomedan  or  two  the  place  is  utterly  deserted.  On 
all  sides  are  ruins  of  palaces,  terraces,  reservoirs,  and  gardens, 
all  fast  crumbling  to  decay,  and  inhabited  only  by  owls,  bats, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         253 

and  wild  beasts.  The  work  of  destruction  is  greatly  assisted 
by  birds,  which  carry  the  seeds  of  the  banian,  pepul,  and 
other  trees.  These,  dropping  into  the  crevices  of  the  stone- 
work, germinate  and  throw  out  roots,  speedily  rending  roofs 
and  walls.  I  believe  some  little  has  been  done  by  the  Dhar 
Kajah  to  protect  the  ruins,  but  the  extent  of  the  buildings  is 
great,  and  the  tropical  growth  too  powerful,  to  give  any  hope 
that  an  impression  will  be  made  on  the  slow  and  sure  work 
of  time. 

I  was  camped  with  Captain  Blowers  in  the  old  city,  and 
had,  as  usual,  sent  my  men  out  into  the  jungle.  About  10 
A.M.  they  sent  us  word  that  they  had  marked  down  a  tiger 
close  to  the  gateway  of  the  fort.  On  proceeding  to  the  spot 
they  showed  us  a  mass  of  high  grass  and  bushes,  in  the  bed 
of  an  old  artificial  reservoir,  formed  in  the  jungle  by  throwing 
a  bank  across  a  watercourse.  The  place  was  quite  dry,  the 
action  of  the  water  having  cut  a  deep  gap  in  the  embank- 
ment. We  approached  the  spot  very  quietly,  and  I  took  up 
a  position  in  a  tree  on  the  bank  of  the  nullah  below.  I  then 
sent  instructions  to  the  men  to  advance  slowly  towards  the 
tiger,  tapping  the  trees  with  their  sticks,  but  without  making 
any  very  great  uproar.  The  result  was  as  I  had  anticipated. 
The  tigress, — for  it  was  a  lady, — came  stealthily  down  the 
watercourse  towards  me,  and  was  laid  low  by  a  couple  of 
shots.  My  friend  was  in  another  tree  about  fifty  yards  off. 
We  had  tossed  for  choice  of  positions,  and  he  had  lost,  but  as  he 
did  not  pretend  to  be  a  hunter,  it  was  a  matter  of  no  regret 
to  either. 

I  had  heard  of  game  in  the  rugged  country  lying  on  the 
banks  of  the  Mhye,  to  the  north  of  Sirdarpore,  and  accord- 
ingly I  trysted  Ward  to  meet  me  at  Burmundel,  a  village 
about  sixteen  miles  from  the  cantonment.  Near  this  place, 


254  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

in  a  comparatively  open  jungle,*  were  some  bears'  caves, 
situated  on  the  side  of  a  ridge  of  elevated  ground.  We 
directed  our  men  to  proceed  to  this  spot  after  dark,  when 
the  bears  would  be  out  feeding,  and  to  block  up  the  entrance 
to  the  caves  with  stones,  etc.  We  started  early  in  the  morn- 
ing on  elephants,  and  on  arriving  at  the  place,  found  three 
bears  dancing  about  the  caves  in  a  state  of  great  consternation. 
On  seeing  us  they  went  off,  but  after  going  a  short  distance, 
they  were  turned  back  by  some  villagers,  and  again  made  for 
the  caves.  I  met  them  on  a  narrow  ridge,  and  as  they  came 
tumbling  along  after  each  other  in  single  file,  my  elephant 
became  so  unsteady  that  I  could  not  shoot  with  accuracy. 
The  bears,  however,  turned  and  fled,  the  largest  being  wounded 
in  the  foot.  Ward  at  once  went  after  him,  and  ended  a  long 
chase  by  slaying  him.  Meanwhile,  the  others,  making  a  cir- 
cuit, regained  the  caves,  and  before  we  could  overtake  them 
they  managed  to  effect  an  entrance,  and  went  to  ground. 

We  then  moved  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Buckutgurh, 
where  we  found  a  gigantic  old  male  bear  in  a  corinda  thicket, 
on  the  side  of  a  ravine.  No  trees  were  at  hand,  so  we  stood 
together,  and  as  he  came  out,  we  made  short  work  of  him.  We 
saw  two  others,  but  they  got  away  in  a  bit  of  rough  country, 
and  we  could  not  find  them  again. 

We  then  moved  north  to  Dhotreea,  about  eight  miles. 
Here  our  men  marked  down  a  tigress,  and  we  went  after  her 
about  mid-day.  She  was  lying  on  the  side  of  a  wide  open 
ravine,  filled  with  scrub  about  six  feet  in  height,  through 
which  were  scattered  dwarf  salar  trees.  It  was  a  very  awk- 
ward place  to  work  in.  The  ground  was  unsuited  for  an 
elephant,  and  there  was  nothing  to  indicate  the  direction 
which  the  tigress,  if  started,  might  be  expected  to  take.  The 
scrub  jungle  was  too  thick  to  allow  us  to  shoot  down  on  her 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        255 

from  above,  and  the  only  spot  from  which  a  clear  view  could 
be  got,  was  the  face  of  the  ravine  opposite  to  where  she  lay. 
This  position  was  attended  by  a  slight  objection,  inasmuch  as 
the  tigress,  if  wounded,  could  charge  straight  at  us.  We  had 
just  reached  this  place,  when  she  rose  from  the  base  of  a  large 
stone  under  which  she  had  been  lying,  and  stood  for  a  moment 
undecided.  I  whispered  to  Ward  that  we  should  not  get  a 
better  chance,  and  at  once  fired.  The  ball  struck  her  about 
the  middle  of  the  ribs,  and  crossing  diagonally,  came  out 
before  the  shoulder.  The  wound  was  a  mortal  one  ;  but  she 
wheeled  round  and  dashed  down  the  ravine  to  our  left.  Ward 
put  in  another  shot,  and  she  fell  over,  and  was  dead  before  we 
could  get  up  to  her.  The  heat  at  this  place  was  terrific  ;  the 
sun  of  May  beat  down  on  the  black  and  scorched  rocks  around 
us,  while  the  hills  and  scrub  jungle  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded shut  out  every  breath  of  air.  Ward  never  paused  to 
look  at  the  tiger,  but  set  off  at  once  for  the  nearest  water, 
which  was  said  to  be  in  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  about  two 
miles  off.  Hastily  directing  the  men  to  get  the  tigress  on 
the  elephant,  and  follow,  I  went  after  him.  I  did  not  over- 
take him  till  he  had  reached  the  river,  where  I  found  him 
drenching  his  head  with  water  from  a  hole  which  the  men 
had  scooped  in  the  sand.  He  assured  me,  that  had  he  paused 
on  the  way,  he  felt  that  he  must  have  been  struck  down  by 
the  sun.  On  our  way  back  to  camp  a  fine  young  pig  was 
shot  by  Ward  ;  and  we  improved  our  banquet  by  pork-chops 
and  soused  countenance. 

The  Mhye  river  lay  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  our  tents, 
and  next  morning  our  men  were  on  the  banks  before  day- 
break, on  the  look-out  for  game.  They  marked  a  bear  into 
some  very  rough  ground,  and,  posting  ourselves  together,  we 
sent  them  round  to  drive.  The  spot  where  we  stood  was  sur- 


256  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

rounded  by  high  grass ;  but  we  got  a  good  view  of  the  bear 
as  it  came  out,  and  dropped  it.  Eecovering  itself,  it  got 
into  a  small  narrow  ravine  leading  down  to  the  Mhye.  We 
had  crossed  the  river  dryshod  about  an  hour  before  ;  but 
rain  had  fallen  near  the  source  of  the  stream,  and  it  was 
now  coming  down  in  a  turbid  flood,  sixty  yards  in  width. 
The  bear  at  once^swam  across  ;  and  after  some  delay  we  fol- 
lowed on  an  elephant,  and  our  men  took  up  the  track.  They 
picked  out  the  footprints  with  great  sagacity,  and  after  nearly 
two  miles  we  came  up  with  the  bear  and  slew  it.  We  had 
good  prospects  of  game  in  this  neighbourhood  ;  but  we  both 
had  work  elsewhere,  and  next  morning  we  parted  company. 

The  last-detailed  bear-hunt  had  been  witnessed  with  much 
interest  by  Eamla,  a  Bheel  freebooter,  who  had  given  a  good 
deal  of  trouble  in  his  time,  and  had  lately  broken  out  of  the 
jail  at  Mundlaisir.  The  thakoor  of  Dhotreea,  a  chief  who  was 
well  acquainted  with  his  movements,  had  assured  me  that  he 
had  fled  from  the  country,  and  pretended  to  be  much  hurt  at 
my  ill-disguised  incredulity.  Some  time  after  I  sent  for 
Earnla,  who  came  in  on  safe  conduct.  He  conversed  plea- 
santly on  the  subject  of  his  numerous  misdeeds,  and  informed 
me  that,  seated  on  the  hill-side,  he  had  watched  our  pursuit 
of  the  bear  from  find  to  finish. 

On  my  way  back  to  Sirdarpore  a  Bheel  was  brought  into 
my  camp  minus  a  hand  and  a  foot.  He  stated  that  he  had 
been  thus  mutilated  by  order  of  a  petty  chief  in  the  Dhar 
state,  who,  suspecting  him  of  robbery,  had  directed  his  limbs 
to  be  hewn  off.  The  operation  had  been  performed  with  an 
adze,  and  the  stumps  had  been  dipped  in  hot  oil,  to  check  the 
bleeding.  I  reported  the  matter  to  the  agent  of  the  Viceroy, 
who  ordered  the  chief  to  pay  the  man  for  life,  through  my 
office,  a  monthly  pension  of  ten  rupees.  I  sent  for  both 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         257 

parties,  and  explained  the  order ;  and,  with  a  view  to  his 
longevity,  I  suggested  that  the  Bheel  should  reside  in  my 
cantonment  at  Sirdarpore.  He  declined  to  leave  his  home. 

Some  time  after  the  chief  waited  on  me,  and  suggested  a 
reduction  of  the  pension,  on  the  ground  that  the  man  had 
grown  fat  and  lusty,  and  kept  a  good  pony — a  state  of  things 
unbecoming  one  in  his  station  of  life.  I  replied  that  the 
matter  had  been  settled,  and  could  not  be  re-opened.  Event- 
ually it  was  reported  that  the  man  had  died  from  the  effects 
of  a  drinking-bout ;  but  I  fear  that  the  quality  and  not  the 
quantity  of  the  liquor  was  to  blame. 


CHAPTEK  XVII. 

Meet  Bonnor  on  Dohud  Frontier — Tiger  in  Ranapoor  Ravine— Plan  of  Attack 
— Instantaneous  Death — I  join  my  Friends — Murder  of  two  Bears  — 
Cooling  Drinks— Another  Bear— Pursuit — The  Bear  shot — I  return  to 
Sirdarpore — Bears  at  Tirla — A  Siesta — Drawing  the  Bear — Mother  and 
Child  smoked  out— The  Chief  of  Jucnaoda— Tiger-Tactics— The  Tiger 
slain. 

MY  friend  Major  Bonnor  commanded  the  Bheel  regiment  at 
Dohud,  50  miles  to  the  westward  of  Sirdarpore,  and  having 
been  invited  to  meet  him  on  the  frontier,  I  marched  through 
the  Jhabbooa  country,  and  was  encamped  six  miles  south  of 
the  town  of  Eanapoor,  when  I  heard  of  a  tiger  in  a  small  covert 
near  my  tents.  Major  Bonnor,  with  Colonels  Buckle  and 
Baigrie,  was  then  encamped  about  16  miles  farther  west,  and 
I  had  arranged  to  be  with  them  on  the  following  morning. 

The  spot  which  the  tiger  had  chosen  was  in  a  small  ravine 
about  200  yards  in  length  by  50  in  breadth,  and  in  shape  like 
the  letter  Y.  The  lower  part  was  filled  with  a  dense  mass  of 
creepers,  having  large  leaves  shaped  liked  a  camel's  foot,  and 
handsome  pink  blossoms.  The  stems  twined  like  ropes  from 
tree  to  tree.  At  the  spot  where  the  ravine  divided  there  was 
a  small  tree,  into  which  I  stealthily  climbed  with  one  of  my 
gun-bearers.  Outside  the  upper  ends  I  had  posted  men  on 
trees,  with  directions  to  shout  and  hurl  stones  at  the  tiger 
should  he  attempt  to  leave  the  covert.  The  beaters  had  been 
sent  to  drive  from  the  low  end,  and  I  sat  facing  a  rocky  ridge, 
which  rose  between  the  two  smaller  nullahs.  The  position  of 
myself  and  gun-bearer  was  not  a  very  good  one,  for  we  were 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  259 

not  nine  feet  from  the  ground,  but  we  could  get  no  higher,  so 
I  had  to  make  up  my  mind  to  shoot  straight  and  trust  to 
luck.  On  hearing  the  beaters  advancing  the  tiger  passed  under 
the  mass  of  creepers  on  my  left,  and  went  up  the  right-hand 
nullah,  at  the  head  of  which  he  was  turned  by  the  men  on  the 
trees.  Eetracing  his  steps,  he  came  down  to  the  spot  where  I 
was  posted.  I  could  hear  his  feet  on  the  dry  leaves,  but  he 
was  completely  hidden  by  the  heavy  foliage.  It  was  a 
moment  of  intense  excitement.  The  sound  of  the  footsteps 
ceased,  then  there  was  a  patter  on  the  leaves,  and  the  tiger 
glided  out  immediately  below  me.  He  was  not  eight  feet 
from  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle,  and  in  another  instant  would 
have  disappeared  under  the  creepers  on  my  right.  At  that 
moment  I  fired,  and  the  heavy  two-ounce  ball  struck  him  on 
the  base  of  the  neck,  dividing  the  spine.  Death  was  in- 
stantaneous, and  the  mighty  brute  sank  down  in  his  tracks. 
So  suddenly  had  all  muscular  power  ceased  that  he  did  not 
even  roll  over,  but  lay  with  his  head  doubled  under  his  chest, 
and  his  hocks  sticking  out.  Neither  tail  nor  paws  moved. 
Fearing  that  he  might  only  be  stunned,  I  at  once  fired  my 
second  shot,  but  I  might  as  well  have  spared  my  lead. 

When  the  men  came  up  they  looked  first  at  the  beast  and 
then  at  me  ;  and  then,  as  if  in  apology  for  the  part  they  had 
taken  in  his  death,  they  made  a  sort  of  shame-faced  salaam  to 
the  tiger,  and  stood  on  one  side.  This  reverence  was,  however, 
only  shown  by  the  local  Bheels.  The  men  of  my  own  regi- 
ment, who  always  accompanied  me,  had  long  since  stifled 
their  veneration  for  wild  beasts. 

As  we  were  lifting  out  the  dead  tiger  a  horseman  came  up 
with  a  note  from  Baigrie  pressing  me  to  come  to  them  at  once, 
as  they  were  in  a  country  swarming  with  game,  and  required 
my  valuable  assistance.  He  added,  "  Come  on  at  once  ; 


260  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Bonnor  shikars  en  prince,  drinking  still  hock  while  the  beat 
is  going  on,  and  the  more  noisy  moselle  when  it  is  over." 
I  sent  back  a  verbal  message  that  I  had  just  bagged  a  fine 
tiger,  and  would  be  with  them  in  the  morning.  On  meeting  I 
learnt  that  they  also  had  heard  of  this  tiger,  and,  fearing  lest 
I  should  slay  it  before  joining  them,  they  had  sent  off  their 
urgent  epistle. 

We  had  just  finished  a  hearty  breakfast  when  one  of 
Bonnor's  men  came  in  and  reported  two  bears  in  a  nullah, 
about  two  miles  from  our  camp.  Colonel  Buckle  was  busy 
with  state  affairs,  so  we  went  off  without  him.  The  bears 
were  lying  asleep  in  some  long  grass  in  a  bamboo  jungle,  and 
our  guides,  taking  us  up  three  abreast,  heaved  down  stones. 
The  unhappy  beasts  had  no  chance.  They  made  a  rush  up 
the  side  of  the  nullah,  but  the  fire  was  sharp  and  straight,  and 
they  were  killed  at  once. 

The  day  was  hot.  Bonnor  suggested  refreshments,  and 
commanded  Ganymede  to  appear.  I  then  saw  that  we  were 
followed  by  a  man  bearing  on  his  head  a  huge  basket.  We 
sat  down  under  a  shady  tree,  and  from  out  a  mass  of  wet 
straw,  the  rich  wines  of  the  Ehineland  and  Bordeaux  were 
produced ;  as  also  the  beer  of  Bass,  and  soda-water  of  a  skil- 
ful manufacturer.  Spices  and  limes  were  also  there  in  pro- 
fusion, and  the  requisite  supply  of  tumblers.  For  the  proper 
mixing  of  the  various  drinks  a  large  earthenware  jug  had 
been  also  sent  out.  We  lit  our  pipes,  and  spent  an  hour  very 
pleasantly,  and  then  returned  to  the  tent. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  again  summoned  to  the  jungle, 
where  another  bear  had  been  marked  by  our  indefatigable 
hunters.  We  set  out  at  once,  but  the  bear,  having  been 
roused  by  a  hasty  shot,  got  away  unhurt.  Our  men  how- 
ever pursued  and  headed  him,  and  he  was  driven  back.  He 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         261 

then  came  down  a  slope  covered  with  clumps  of  bamboos, 
and  had  he  held  on  his  course  he  would  have  come  straight 
at  us.  I  was  suggesting  the  propriety  of  not  firing  till  he 
was  within  a  few  yards  of  us,  when  the  bear  turned  towards 
our  right  and  was  going  off.  Eesting  my  rifle  against  a  tree  I 
waited  till  he  had  cleared  a  thick  mass  of  bamboo,  and  as  his 
head  and  shoulders  appeared,  I  fired  and  the  bear  dropped. 
The  shot  was  a  good  one,  for  he  was  about  120  yards  from 
where  we  stood  ;  but  my  companions  abused  me  for  firing 
when  I  had  been  urging  them  to  refrain.  However,  I  should 
not  have  done  so  had  the  bear  not  turned.  My  shot  had 
only  wounded  him,  and  as  he  came  blundering  down  the  hill, 
we  ran  in  and  finished  him. 

We  halted  at  this  place  another  day,  but  heard  of  no  game, 
and  as  our  respective  duties  called  us  in  various  directions, 
we  broke  up  the  camp.  I  did  my  best  to  induce  Baigrie  to 
join  me,  but  he  thought  the  Baroda  country  offered  fairer  pro- 
spects of  sport.  I  think  he  afterwards  regretted  his  decision. 

On  my  return  march  to  Sirdarpore  I  sent  my  men  ahead 
to  mark  game  on  the  Vindyah  hills,  and  on  reaching  my  tents, 
four  miles  from  Tirla,  I  found  that  a  couple  of  bears  had 
been  marked.  The  grass  had  been  burnt,  and  the  ground  was 
perfectly  bare  throughout  the  jungle. 

On  the  side  of  a  very  steep  slope,  thinly  studded  with  tall 
trees,  was  a  bit  of  rock  scarped  to  the  height  of  seven  feet, 
and  extending  some  twenty  yards  along  the  face  of  the  hill. 
Under  this  rock  were  some  holes,  into  which  the  bears  had 
gone  in  the  early  morning.  We  went  very  quietly  down  till 
we  reached  the  edge  of  the  scarp,  when  one  of  the  men  point- 
ing over  showed  me  the  snout  and  two  fore-paws  of  a  sleep- 
ing bear  protruding  from  a  hole  at  the  base  of  the  rock.  At 
the  mouth  of  this  hole  grew  a  peepul-tree,  and  the  noise  made 


262  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

by  the  rustling  of  its  green  leaves  in  the  wind  prevented  the 
bear  from  hearing  our  footsteps.  The  body  of  the  beast  was 
inside  the  hole,  and  the  only  effect  of  a  low  whistle  was  to 
make  him  move  his  head  to  the  right  and  left.  At  length 
I  cast  down  a  small  peeble,  on  which  he  made  a  grab  at  it 
with  his  fore-paws,  and  then  threw  himself  back  into  the  hole 
with  his  hind  legs  protruding.  At  length  he  disappeared 
altogether,  and  though  we  threw  down  sticks  and  stones  he 
would  not  show. 

The  afore-mentioned  peepul-tree  grew  up  the  face  of  the 
rock,  and  I  now  directed  one  of  my  men  to  climb  out  into  the 
tree,  and  having  tied  a  stone  into  the  end  of  his  turban,  to 
shake  it  over  the  mouth  of  the  hole.  The  ruse  succeeded  ad- 
mirably. The  bear  rushed  out,  and  as  he .  rose  on  his  hind 
legs  and  furiously  attacked  the  dangling  turban,  I  shot  him 
through  the  head,  and  he  fell.  We  then  went  down  to  the 
mouth  of  the  hole,  and  lit  a  fire  of  dry  grass,  wood,  and  green 
leaves.  A  dense  smoke  was  carried  into  the  hole,  and  soon 
after  the  she-bear  bolted  with  the  cub  clinging  to  her  back. 
I  shot  the  old  one,  and  then  running  in,  captured  the  cub, 
which  we  took  home  alive. 

On  moving  camp  to  Tirla  I  was  met  by  the  Chief  of  Juc- 
naoda,  a  sirdar  of  the  Jhabbooa  Eajah,  who  had  invited  me 
to  hunt  a  tiger  which  had  taken  up  its  abode  in  some  grass 
lands  near  his  village.  The  thakoor  was  a  pleasant  old  gen- 
tleman, who  spent  much  of  his  time  in  the  saddle.  He  was 
very  fond  of  dogs,  horses,  and  all  matters  connected  with  the 
chase  ;  but  from  the  constant  habit  of  eating  opium  he  had 
ruined  his  constitution,  and  reduced  himself  to  a  shadow. 
Still  the  old  man  was  game,  and  always  ready  to  join  in  any 
out-door  amusement. 

I  sent  on  my  men  and  guns  to  the  place  where  the  tiger 


o 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         263 

was  said  to  be,  and  as  the  sun  became  powerful,  I  rode  over 
with  the  thakoor.  We  found  my  own  party  of  twenty  men, 
and  about  fifty  villagers  assembled  ;  and,  riding  to  a  small  ris- 
ing ground,  we  proceeded  to  examine  the  ground  and  arrange 
the  plan  of  operations. 

Before  us  lay  a  wide  expanse  of  rough  grass  and  bushes, 
having  here  and  there  an  irregular  and  steep-banked  nullah 
running  down  on  a  main  watercourse,  which  bounded  the 
ground  on  the  side  next  to  us.  At  some  distance  to  our  left, 
down  the  bed  of  the  stream,  stood  a  large  peepul-tree.  Higher 
up,  on  our  right,  was  a  mowa-tree,  and  my  choice  of  positions 
lay  between  them.  I  decided  on  mounting  the  peepul ;  and 
having  told  off  my  own  men  into  three  parties,  and  given  to 
each  a  proportion  of  villagers,  I  sent  them  off  with  directions 
to  extend  so  as  to  form  an  unbroken  line,  and  to  drive  the 
grass  down  towards  the  peepul-tree. 

All  being  arranged,  I  went  off  to  take  up  my  position  ; 
but  I  found  the  tree  too  large  to  climb,  the  trunk  being  clear 
of  branches  for  a  considerable  height.  The  situation  was 
unpleasant,  as  the  tiger  might  be  expected  at  any  moment. 
No  time  was  to  be  lost,  and  I  ran  back  to  the  hillock  from 
which  I  had  surveyed  the  ground,  and  signalled  to  the  beaters 
to  halt.  I  then  sent  word  to  them  to  bring  the  right  forward, 
and  to  drive  up  towards  the  mowa-tree,  into  which  I  climbed, 
and  found  myself  in  a  very  commanding  position.  High  up 
above  me  I  had  placed  a  look-out,  and  before  long  this  man 
whispered  that  the  tiger  was  on  foot,  and  coming  towards  us. 
Presently  he  came  quietly  out  of  the  bed  of  the  main  water- 
course, and  stood  in  the  long  grass  looking  back  towards  the 
advancing  line.  In  a  few  seconds  he  came  on  again,  and 
when  he  was  within  fifty  yards  I  gave  a  low  whistle,  and  he 
at  once  halted.  At  that  moment  I  fired,  shooting  him  dia- 


264  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

gonally  through  the  root  of  the  neck,  and  he  fell  forward  quite 
dead.  I  fired  again,  but  he  never  moved. 

Meanwhile  the  beaters  came  on,  and  I  saw  a  leopard 
break  away  out  of  shot.  As  the  men  approached  me,  the 
chief,  who  had  remained  stationed  on  the  hillock  with  all  his 
followers,  sent  a  horseman  up  to  my  tree  to  ascertain  what 
had  become  of  the  tiger.  I  told  him  it  was  dead,  and  at  that 
moment  lying  in  the  grass  about  ten  paces  in  front  of  his 
horse.  Craning  out  his  neck,  he  caught  sight  of  the  tiger — a 
full-grown  male ;  and  without  another  word  he  wheeled  round, 
and  went  off  to  his  master  at  full  speed. 

The  whole  party  now  came  up ;  but  the  old  chief,  who 
had  at  the  least  expected  a  smart  scrimmage,  seemed  quite 
sorry  to  see  the  beast,  which  had  been  for  months  'the  terror 
of  the  place,  so  easily  disposed  of.  He  shook  his  head  mourn- 
fully, and  exclaimed,  "Wah  !  Wah !  ek  golee — kya  zoolum  ;" 
literally,  "One  bullet !  what  injustice !"  But  he  was  consoled 
with  the  knowledge  that  his  cows  would  now  graze  in  peace. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Meet  "Ward  at  Dhurrempooree — Move  to  Kotra— Scenery — Tigers'  Tracks — 
A  lucky  Find — The  Tigress  slain — Two  more  marked  down— Bees — 
Ticks— Successful  Hunt— Second  Day,  Tigress  slain— Third  Day,  the 
Tiger  escapes— Fourth  Day,  killed  this  time — Fifth  Day,  five  Tigers 
bagged — Calm  Beatitude. 

ON  the  evening  of  the  29th  of  March  1862,  Captain  Ward 
met  me  at  Dhurrempooree,  a  town  in  Nirnar,  situated  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Nerbudda  river.  The  stream  at  this  place 
is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  swarming  with  mah- 
seer  and  other  fish,  and  moreover  plentifully  stocked  with 
alligators. 

The  country  to  the  north  for  some  six  or  seven  miles  is 
partly  cultivated  ;  but  the  Vindyah  range  of  mountains  then 
rises  with  rugged  slopes,  covered  with  scrub  jungle  and  trees 
of  moderate  growth.  To  the  south  of  the  river,  on  the  border 
of  the  Burwanee  territory,  the  country,  though  apparently 
level  when  viewed  from  a  distance,  is  cut  up  with  innumer- 
able ravines,  all  running  down  to  the  Nerbudda.  These 
ravines,  and  indeed  also  the  more  level  parts,  are  filled  with 
long  grass  and  dense  thorny  bushes  ;  and  though  the  district 
is  fairly  stocked  with  tigers,  panthers,  bears,  and  deer,  I  was 
never  able  to  do  much  execution  among  them. 

Our  intended  beat  on  this  occasion  lay  at  Kotra,  about 
six  or  seven  miles  farther  down  the  river,  where  it  is  joined 
on  the  north  side  by  the  Maun  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Deb  rivers.  Both  of  these  streams  almost  cease  to  flow  dur- 


266  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

ing  the  hot  weather,  but  large  stagnant  pools  remain  in  parts  ; 
and  in  many  places  along  the  beds  of  the  rivers  the  bastard 
cypress  grows  freely,  intermingled  with  willows  and  other 
green  bushes,  which  refresh  the  eye  amid  the  general  parched- 
up  vegetation.  These  bushes  are  covered  by  the  floods  during 
the  monsoon,  when  the  dried-up  beds  are  swept  by  mighty 
torrents ;  but,  though  the  water  disappears  in  summer,  the 
undersoil  is  moistened  by  the  percolation  through  the  sand, 
and  the  bushes  retain  their  verdure,  forming  comparatively 
cool  retreats  for  tigers,  who,  in  addition  to  their  ordinary 
prey  of  pigs,  nylghae,  and  porcupines,  are  attracted  by  the 
herds  of  cattle  which  are  brought  down  by  their  owners  from 
the  more  dried-up  districts. 

We  had  received  reliable  information  of  the  presence  of 
game,  and  had  sent  on  tents,  servants,  and  "  shikarees,"  that 
all  might  be  in  readiness  on  our  arrival.  We  had  only  one 
elephant,  but  he  was  a  staunch  one,  though  dangerous  at 
times,  and,  when  employed  with  the  troops  on  service  in 
1858,  had  killed  a  soldier  who  had  incautiously  come  within 
reach  of  his  trunk.  The  elephant,  together  with  our  gun- 
bearers  and  a  native  horseman,  preceded  us  from  Dhurrem- 
pooree  before  daybreak  on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  April, 
and  it  was  still  dark  when  my  friend  and  I  mounted  our 
horses  and  followed  them. 

We  had  proceeded  two  or  three  miles  along  the  track 
formed  by  village  carts,  which  is  all  the  apology  for  a  road 
which  the  country  affords,  when  the  day  broke,  and  we  then 
observed,  in  the  very  cart-rut  in  which  one  of  us  was  riding, 
the  fresh  footprints  of  a  tiger  which  had  passed  along  in  the 
early  morning.  They  were  not  to  be  mistaken  in  the  heavy 
dust,  but  were  in  parts  obliterated  by  the  tracks  of  the  ele- 
phant and  our  gun-bearers,  who  had  evidently  passed  the  spot 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         267 

in  the  dark.  The  prints,  however,  led  in  the  direction  in 
which  we  were  going,  and  we  quickened  our  pace,  keeping 
them  in  view. 

After  proceeding  about  a  mile,  we  came  up  with  our  men, 
who,  on  the  day  breaking,  had  at  once  perceived  the  tracks, 
and  had  sent  off  the  horseman  to  bring  back  the  elephant, 
which  had  outpaced  them.  We  then  dismounted  and  pro- 
ceeded to  load,  and  on  the  elephant  coming  up  we  again 
followed  the  track  of  the  tiger.  It  continued  for  some  dis- 
tance farther  along  the  same  road,  and  then  turned  north,  by 
a  cross-path,  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  after  which  it 
struck  into  the  jungle  ;  and,  the  ground  being  hard,  we  were 
at  fault.  Leaving  our  men,  we  rode  forward,  and  carefully 
reconnoitred  the  country  in  the  direction  which  the  beast  had 
taken.  It  looked  very  hopeless,  stretching  for  miles  in  flat 
thorny  scrub,  with  small  open  spaces  here  and  there,  and 
occasional  thickets  20  or  30  yards  in  breadth.  Half-a-mile  in 
advance  was  a  solitary  tree,  and  it  was  agreed  that  I  should 
make  a  detour,  and  climb  this  tree,  on  the  chance  of  seeing 
the  tiger,  should  it  be  started  by  Ward,  who  was  to  mount 
the  elephant,  and  beat  up  the  ground  in  my  direction.  We 
accordingly  returned  to  the  men,  and,  taking  my  two  gun- 
bearers  with  me,  I  set  off  for  the  tree,  which  I  climbed,  and 
soon  after  saw  Ward  advancing  on  the  elephant,  and  moving 
about  among  the  thickets. 

Presently  I  heard  a  couple  of  shots.  The  report  was  so 
small  that  I  concluded  Ward  had  only  fired  his  revolver  into 
some  covert  too  dense  for  the  elephant  to  penetrate  ;  but  soon 
after  our  horseman  came  up  at  a  gallop,  legs  and  arms  flying 
in  all  directions,  and  informed  me  that  the  tiger  was  slain.  I 
was  not  a  little  astonished,  having  been  deceived  by  the  re- 
port of  the  rifle ;  and,  descending  from  my  perch,  I  rejoined 


268  ,    WILD  MEN  AND    WILD  BEASTS. 

Ward,  whom  I  found  standing  over  the  body  of  a  fine  tigress. 
The  beast  had  probably  travelled  a  long  way  during  the  night 
in  quest  of  food,  and  on  the  day  breaking  had  lain  up  in  the 
first  quiet  spot.  Ward  came  suddenly  upon  her,  and  finished 
her  before  she  had  time  to  rise.  We  were  much  pleased  with 
this  bit  of  unexpected  sport,  and  making  over  our  guns  to  our 
attendants,  we  remounted  our  horses,  and  rode  off  merrily  to 
breakfast,  leaving  the  men  to  follow  with  the  tigress,  which 
we  had  bound  on  the  elephant,  after  taking  off  the  howdah, 
to  prevent  damage  to  the  skin.  The  howdah  was  carried  in 
by  some  villagers  who  had  assembled  at  the  spot. 

On  reaching  the  camp  we  were  met  by  our  shikarees, 
their  countenances  wearing  a  peculiar  grin,  which,  from  long 
experience,  I  knew  meant  business.  They  informed  us  that 
on  their  arrival  they  had  found  fresh  tracks,  and  had  tied  up 
sundry  buffaloes  on  the  previous  evening  in  the  most  fre- 
quented spots.  One  of  these  had  been  killed  during  the  night 
in  the  Maun  river,  half-a-mile  above  the  junction,  and  the 
carcass  had  been  dragged  into  a  large  patch  of  cypress  in  the 
bed  of  the  stream.  Markers  had  been  posted  on  the  trees 
along  the  bank,  and  only  our  presence  was  necessary  to  open 
the  ball  Kefreshed  by  this  intelligence,  we  proceeded  to 
breakfast,  and  soon  after  the  guns  and  elephant  came  in. 

Our  followers,  who  had  preceded  us,  had  suffered  a  good 
deal  from  bees,  several  large  swarms  having  been  roused  by 
the  smoke  of  the  camp-fires  from  the  few  trees  at  the  place 
which  afforded  shade  to  our  tents.  The  village  cattle  had, 
moreover,  been  in  the  habit  of  seeking  shelter  from  the  mid- 
day sun  under  these  trees,  and  the-  ground  was  alive  with 
ticks,  by  which  our  men  had  been  grievously  bitten.  The 
bite  of  these  insects  is  severe,  and  is  followed  by  great  itching 
and  swelling,  which  lasts  for  two  days  or  more.  In  such 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         269 

places  we  generally  wore  long  riding-boots  all  day,  but  the 
feet  of  the  natives  were  unprotected  and  they  suffered  accord- 
ingly. 

At  11  A.M.  we  again  set  off,  and  at  the  end  of  a  mile  we 
arrived  at  the  river  Maun.  The  opposite  bank  was  steep,  and 
at  its  foot  ran  a  long  strip  of  cypress  some  10  yards  in  width, 
and  200  or  300  in  length.  On  this  side  the  bed  of  the  river 
was  covered  with  cypress  to  the  extent  of  several  acres,  and 
in  the  centre  was  a  large  pool  of  still  water,  in  which  the 
tigers  (there  were  two)  had  repeatedly  been  seen  by  our 
markers  to  bathe  themselves  during  the  morning.  The 
country  on  both  sides  was  cut  in  all  directions  with  small 
but  deep  ravines,  very  narrow  at  the  bottom,  and  filled  with 
long  grass  and  thorny  bushes. 

As  we  knew  the  tigers  were  gorged,  we  concluded  they 
would  not  leave  the  cypress,  and  we  therefore  both  mounted 
the  elephant  and  proceeded  to  beat  them  out,  previously 
taking  care  that  all  our  men  were  clear  of  the  covert,  and 
safely  perched  on  trees.  The  tigers  were  soon  on  the  move, 
and,  guided  by  the  waving  of  the  cypress,  which  was  five  and 
six  feet  high  at  this  part,  we  pushed  after  them.  Presently 
both  beasts  were  wounded,  but  accurate  shooting  was  impos- 
sible, owing  to  the  motion  of  the  elephant  and  the  density  of 
the  covert.  The  tigress  was  the  first  to  succumb,  which  she 
did  after  one  or  two  plucky  charges ;  and  soon  after,  the 
tiger,  a  fine  heavy  beast,  dashed  through  the  pool,  and  dis- 
appeared in  the  strip  of  covert  on  the  opposite  side.  We 
slowly  followed,  advancing  cautiously,  for  the  cypress  was 
varied  by  rocks  and  bunches  of  long  grass.  Suddenly,  with  a 
terrific  roar,  the  tiger  rose  and  came  on  open-mouthed ;  but 
the  shooting  was  good,  and  the  elephant  steady,  and  he  was 
hurled  back,  and  again  crossed  the  pool  to  the  place  where  we 


270  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

originally  found  him.  We  reloaded,  and  following,  found  him 
very  groggy,  and  put  an  end  to  him  without  further  trouble. 

Thus  ended  our  first  day's  work.  Three  tigers  had  been 
found  and  bagged.  We  bound  the  last  two  on  the  elephant, 
and  returned  in  triumph  to  our  camp,  where  we  found  that, 
with  the  assistance  of  the  village  "chamars"  (skinners)  rny 
servant  had  removed  and  pegged  out  the  skin  of  the  beast  we 
had  slain  in  the  morning,  and  was  ready  to  turn  his  attention 
to  the  last  comers.  The  skins  of  these  were  also  pegged  out 
before  dinner ;  and  as  we  smoked  our  evening  pipe,  and  lay 
back  in  our  comfortable  arm-chairs,  we  discoursed  the  labours 
of  the  day,  and  went  to  bed  hopeful  for  the  morrow,  our  men 
having  told  us  that  they  believed  other  tigers  were  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  that  another  lot  •  of  unhappy  buffaloes 
had  been  tied  up  in  the  rivers  and  other  likely  places. 

I  forget  whether  one  of  these  was  killed  during  the  night, 
but  we  went  forth  next  morning  (Wednesday)  after  a  tigress 
which  was  said  to  have  her  cubs  in  the  ravines  near  the  river. 
A  number  of  beaters  was  assembled,  and  a  line  formed,  while 
we  took  up  positions  ahead,  on  foot.  The  tigress  was  soon 
started,  but  got  off  without  a  shot ;  so,  making  a  note  of  the 
line  she  had  taken,  we  mounted  the  elephant,  and  going 
round  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  moved  up  along  the  bank,  and 
halted  at  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  small  ravines.  Our  star 
was  in  the  ascendant,  for,  as  the  beaters  again  came  on,  the 
tigress  appeared  on  the  bank  above  us,  within  thirty  yards, 
and,  firing  together,  we  rolled  her  over  into  the  ravine,  where 
another  shot  finished  her.  Our  men  were  anxious  that  we 
should  not  disturb  the  country  more  that  day,  as  they  sup- 
posed that  other  tigers  were  not  far  off,  so  we  went  quietly 
home  with  the  main  body  of  our  forces,  leaving  our  shikarees 
to  make  all  needful  arrangements  for  the  following  day. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         271 

On  Thursday  morning  we  were  informed  that  a  buffalo  had 
been  killed  during  the  night  close  to  the  spot  where  we  had 
slain  the  two  tigers  on  Tuesday,  and  that  the  tracks  led  into 
the  cypress.  Thinking  the  beast  would  be  too  lazy  to  break 
cover,  we  placed  additional  markers  on  the  banks  on  trees  and 
other  elevated  places,  and,  mounting  the  elephant,  we  entered 
the  jungle.  The  tiger  was  a  cunning  one  ;  and  on  hearing 
us  he  sneaked  down  the  covert  for  300  or  400  yards,  and  then, 
leaving  the  bed  of  the  stream,  went  up  among  the  ravines. 
Our  men  ran  after,  and  did  their  best  to  keep  him  in  sight, 
but  to  no  purpose  ;  and  though  we  searched  far  and  wide,  we 
could  not  find  him  ;  so,  leaving  word  for  the  buffaloes  to  be 
again  tied  up,  we  returned  to  camp. 

The  tiger  came  down  to  the  river  in  the  night,  again 
killed  a  buffalo,  and  again  lay  up  in  the  cypress.  We  went 
at  him  after  breakfast  on  Friday.  He  had  moved  to  the  strip 
of  cover  on  the  far  side.  As  we  beat  slowly  down  on  the 
elephant,  he  again  broke  shyly  and  scrambled  up  a  very 
steep  part  of  the  bank,  where  four  or  five  small  watercourses, 
meeting  at  one  point,  entered  the  river  by  an  abrupt  fall. 
We  fired  several  long  shots,  but  failed  to  stop  him.  The 
elephant  was  unable  to  follow  at  this  place,  and  we  had  to 
return  and  make  a  considerable  circuit  to  ascend  the  bank, 
and  then  we  found  we  had  to  turn  the  head  of  several  ravines 
before  we  could  arrive  at  that  by  which  the  tiger  had  left  the 
river.  We  passed  round  the  heads  of  all  its  tributaries,  care- 
fully examining  the  ground,  but  found  no  tracks,  from  which 
we  gathered  that  we  had  succeeded  in  heading  our  game. 
The  heat  at  this  time  was  great,  and  Ward,  who  was  not  very 
well,  began  to  be  knocked  up,  so,  getting  off  the  elephant,  he 
took  shelter  under  a  tree  while  I  went  to  closely  hunt  up  each 
small  watercourse  by  passing  up  one  side  and  down  the  other. 


272  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

I  had  carefully  examined  them  all,  and  had  turned  away 
in  despair  from  the  last,  when  I  happened  to  cast  my  eye 
back,  and  there,  within  twenty  yards,  lying  in  the  bottom  of 
a  small  channel  some  eight  or  ten  feet  deep,  was  my  friend, 
looking  pleasantly  at  me.  I  quietly  called  to  the  driver  to 
stop,  and  kneeling  on  the  seat  of  the  howdah  I  gave  him  two 
through  the  shoulder.  He  spoke  at  once,  and  scrambled 
along  the  bottom  of  the  watercourse  towards  the  spot  where  I 
had  left  Ward  sitting.  He  did  not  go  far,  however,  and, 
following  him  up,  I  gave  him  a  final  shot.  The  feet  and 
claws  of  this  tiger  were  badly  blistered  and  damaged.  The 
blisters  were  probably  occasioned  by  his  walk  in  the  hot 
ravines  on  the  previous  day,  and  his  claws  were  no  doubt 
broken  as  he  scrambled  up  the  steep  bank  this  morning. 
But  for  this  we  might  possibly  not  have  got  him,  for  on  both 
days  he  seemed  to  think  discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of 
valour. 

A  tiger  of  this  description  is  apt  to  mislead  an  inex- 
perienced sportsman,  as  to  the  dangerous  character  of  these 
beasts.  Having  seen  a  huge  brute  flee  ignominiously  before 
the  hunters,  he  rashly  concludes  that  all  tigers  will  do  the 
same,  and  conducting  his  subsequent  operations  in  accordance 
with  this  erroneous  theory,  sometimes  pays  the  forfeit  with 
his  life.  Such  was  the  sad  fate  of  Captain  Gowan,  6th  Innis- 
killings.  Descending  to  the  water's  edge,  we  cracked  a  bottle 
of  moselle,  and,  after  the  inevitable  pipe,  moved  homewards. 
The  following  day  being  Saturday,  we  determined  not  to  shift 
our  camp,  though,  having  already  killed  four  beasts  close  to 
the  same  spot,  we  were  not  very  sanguine  about  finding 
more.  Buffaloes  were,  however,  again  tied  up  in  the  evening, 
and  next  morning  one  of  our  men  came  in  greatly  excited, 
and  said  that  a  calf  had  been  killed  in  the  night,  and  that 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         273 

four  fresh  tigers  were  in  a  patch  of  cypress  in  the  Nerbudda, 
close  to  the  junction,  where  our  markers  had  seen  them.  We 
were  not  long  in  turning  out,  and  on  reaching  the  place  pro- 
ceeded to  examine  the  ground.  The  tigers  were  in  a  covert 
some  200  yards  in  length  and  150  broad,  thick  in  parts,  but 
broken  into  ridges  by  the  action  of  heavy  floods,  and  between 
these  ridges  were  open  spaces  of  sand  and  shingle.  On  the 
bank  at  the  angle  of  the  junction  was  a  point  from  which 
a  good  bird's-eye  view  could  be  obtained  of  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  round  the  corner,  in  the  Maun,  was  the  cypress 
covert,  in  and  about  which  we  had  hunted  on  the  four  pre- 
vious days. 

We  arranged  that  I  should  stand  at  the  angle,  while  Ward 
beat  up  the  tigers  with  the  elephant.  As  he  approached 
the  covert  the  scene  became  very  interesting,  and  the  tigers 
moved  rapidly  from  one  ridge  to  the  other.  I  had  a  perfect 
view  of  the  whole  proceeding,  and  as  the  beasts  showed  we 
fired  with  various  effects.  Several,  I  knew,  were  hard  hit, 
but  so  many  were  running  about  the  covert  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  say  which  were  wounded. 

Presently,  with  her  tail  standing  out  behind  her  like  a 
kitchen-poker,  the  old  tigress  charged  past  my  post,  growling 
savagely.  I  had  a  good  shot  in  the  open,  but  missed  her  very 
disgracefully,  and  she  went  at  full  speed  round  the  corner 
into  the  Maun  river.  Meanwhile,  Ward  was  not  idle,  and  as 
I  watched  his  movements  I  observed  a  tiger  enter  a  ridge  of 
cypress  on  the  far  side  of  the  covert,  and  close  to  the  stream 
of  the  Nerbudda. 

Soon  after  Ward  moved  up  towards  me  and  said  they  were 
all  dead  with  the  exception  of  the  tigress  which  I  had  let  go. 
I  asked  "  how  many  were  dead  ? "  he  replied,  "  Three."  "  Then," 
said  I,  "  there  is  still  a  fourth  in  the  covert."  Ward  was  in- 

T 


274  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

credulous,  so  I  came  down,  and  mounting  the  elephant  beside 
him  directed  the  mahout  to  move  towards  the  ridge  near  the 
water.  We  beat  it  down  very  carefully  with  no  result,  but  I 
knew  the  beast  was  not  far  off. 

The  side  of  the  bank  next  the  river  sloped  sharply  down 
some  eight  or  ten  feet  to  the  water,  and  was  heavily  fringed 
with  a  thick  green  shrub.  I  directed  the  mahout  to  take  the 
elephant  round  and  enter  the  water.  This  he  did,  and  as  we 
moved  along  in  front  of  the  bank,  in  water  about  five  feet 
deep,  we  spied  the  tiger  lying  almost  hidden  by  the  bushes. 
Being  anxious  to  save  the  skin,  only  one  shot  was  fired,  with 
the  best  aim  allowed  by  the  imperfect  view.  On  receiving 
the  shot,  the  tiger  roared  and  sprang  clean  out  from  the  bank 
towards  us,  and  was  shot  in  the  water  swimming  at  the 
elephant's  head.  He  was  a  young  tiger,  but  a  most  determined 
beast.  When  we  towed  him  ashore  he  was  found  to  be 
riddled  with  bullets.  We  thus  had  four  lying  together  on  the 
sand.  They  were  all  young  tigers  and  tigresses,  but  as  large 
as  the  mother,  and  only  to  be  distinguished  at  a  distance  by 
their  imperfect  stripes.  After  a  slight  refreshment  we  followed 
the  old  lady  into  the  Maun  river,  and  soon  came  on  her  in  the 
cypress.  She  died  game,  but  the  shooting  was  too  good  for 
her  this  time,  and  she  had  no  chance. 

On  the  death  of  the  four,  we  had  sent  off  to  the  camp  for 
two  light  carts.  These  had  arrived  by  this  time.  Two  tigers 
were  placed  in  each,  and  with  the  fifth  bound,  on  the  ele- 
phant, the  procession  moved  on  the  tents.  We  had  within 
the  week  killed  ten  large  tigers,  the  result  of  five  days'  work. 
Of  these  nine  were  killed  within  a  circle  half-a-mile  in 
diameter.  The  villagers  turned  out  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  rejoiced  in  their  own  apathetic  way.  Had  we  not  come, 
many  of  their  cows  would  no  doubt  have  suffered.  They 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        275 

seemed  to  think  it  strange  that  so  many  beasts  should  have 
been  disposed  of  without  loss  of  human  life,  or  accident  of 
any  sort. 

The  five  tigers  made  a  goodly  show  as  they  lay  in  front  of 
our  tent.  Loud  and  noisy  was  the  discussion  over  the  slain, 
and  many  and  varied  were  the  accounts  given  by  our  men  of 
the  week's  work  ;  while  the  principal  actors,  again  ensconced 
in  their  arm-chairs,  quietly  smoked  the  fragrant  pipe,  and 
quaffed  the  beatific  beverage  of  Bass,  weakened  with  water, 
sweetened  with  sugar,  flashed  with  ginger,  and  vulgarly 
known  as  "  mug." 


CHAPTEK  XIX. 

Meet  Blowers  at  Baug— Tiger  wounded — Following  up — We  return  empty- 
handed — Another  Tiger— A  Snap-shot — The  Tigers'  Den — Imperfect  Ven- 
tilation— Spoiling  the  Slain — Old  Bullet-wound — Skin  spoilt— Return  to 
Sirdarpore — Meet  Ward  and  Bradford  at  Dhotreea — Two  Bears  shot — 
Two  more — Large  Tiger  and  two  Bears  bagged. 

FROM  Dhurrempooree  I  marched  westward  through  Nimar 
till  I  arrived  at  Bang,  where  my  friend  Captain  Blowers  met 
me.  Though  no  sportsman,  he  was  anxious  to  shoot  a  tiger, 
and  as  they  were  seldom  absent  from  the  neighbourhood,  I 
hoped  he  might  succeed.  My  men  had  been  out  since  day- 
break, and  about  noon  sent  word  that  they  had  taken-  the 
track  of  a  tiger  up  to  an  old  iron-pit.  On  repairing  to  the 
spot  we  found  that  the  entrances  to  the  excavation  opened  in 
several  directions,  and  that  all  were  more  or  less  obscured  by 
bushes.  On  all  sides  lay  an  extensive  tree-jungle  of  moderate 
height. 

Having  fixed  on  our  positions  in  trees  lying  in  the  course 
we  expected  the  tiger  would  take,  we  sent  a  number  of  men 
round  to  drive  him  out.  He  showed  at  once,  but  broke  wide 
of  our  positions,  and  though  I  put  a  bullet  into  him,  he  went 
off  at  a  sharp  pace.  We  took  up  the  track,  and  followed  it  by 
the  blood  for  some  distance,  keeping  well  together,  with  the 
guns  in  front.  As  we  proceeded  we  halted  frequently  to  allow 
men  to  climb  trees  and  examine  the  ground  before  us,  in 
hopes  of  getting  a  view  of  the  beast,  for  we  knew  that  at  no 
time  is  the  hunter  in  greater  danger  than  when  following  up, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         277 

on  foot,  a  wounded  tiger.  Irritated  with  wounds  and  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  the  hunted  animal  will  stop  in  the  first  convenient 
spot,  and,  wheeling  round  with  his  face  towards  his  pursuers, 
he  will  await  their  approach,  crouching  among  the  grass  or 
rocks,  and  utterly  motionless,  with  the  exception  of  the  last 
three  inches  of  his  tail,  which  he  twitches  nervously,  like  a 
domestic  cat  when  watching  a  mouse. 

But  the  jungle  now  became  thick  and  thorny,  filled  with 
fragments  of  rock,  and  we  reluctantly  gave  up  the  pursuit. 
Had  we  succeeded  in  finding  the  tiger,  I  believe  he  would  not 
have  gone  under  without  serious  injury  to  one  or  more  of  us. 

On  the  following  day  we  went  out  in  another  direction 
after  a  tiger  which  had  killed  and  eaten  the  greater  part  of  a 
buffalo  which  had  been  tied  up  for  him  the  previous  evening. 
He  was  in  an  open  ravine  formed  by  a  sandy  river-bed, 
having  on  the  right  bank  a  small  hill  faced  with  huge  masses 
of  detached  rock.  Along  the  base  of  this  hill  were  some 
trees  of  considerable  growth,  interspersed  with  creepers  and 
brushwood.  In  the  bed  of  the  river  lay  a  patch  of  willow 
and  cypress  about  thirty  yards  in  length.  Beyond  was  some 
rough  and  hilly  ground  covered  with  tree-jungle. 

We  had  taken  our  places  in  trees  above  the  afore-men 
tioned  hill,  and  had  sent  men  round  to  drive  towards  us, 
when  we  heard  loud  shouts,  followed  by  roars  from  the  tiger. 
Soon  a  man  came  running  over  the  hill,  and  called  on  us  to 
join  him,  as  the  tiger  had  broken  back.  We  quickly  came 
down,  and  I  had  just  reached  the  summit  of  the  hill  when  I 
heard  a  further  uproar,  and  a  cry  that  the  tiger  was  coming 
forward  on  us.  I  sprang  on  a  fragment  of  rock  overlooking 
the  river,  and  saw  the  tiger  coming  up  the  sandy  bed  at  a 
brisk  trot,  and  roaring  loudly.  From  my  position  I  could 
only  get  an  occasional  view  as  he  crossed  the  open  spaces  be- 


2*78  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

tween  the  large  trees  which  grew  below  me,  but,  marking  an 
open  bit  of  white  sand  over  which  I  saw  he  would  pass,  I 
stood  ready,  and  as  he  came  in  sight  I  fired  down,  shooting 
him  through  the  back  He  swerved  heavily,  and  ceased  to 
roar.  Then,  rushing  forward,  he  disappeared  in  the  patch  of 
willows.  Calling  to  Blowers  to  follow,  I  ran  down  the  hill, 
and  we  climbed  into  our  old  positions  in  the  trees.  The  beaters 
came  on  upon  the  opposite  bank,  from  which  they  threw 
volleys  of  stones  into  the  thicket,  hoping  to  drive  the  tiger 
towards  us,  but  he  rose,  and  crossing  over,  ascended  the  face 
of  the  hill,  and  disappeared  among  the  rocks,  close  to  the 
spot  from  which  I  had  fired.  We  went  cautiously  up  to  the 
place,  guided  by  a  man  perched  in  a  tree,  and  found  ourselves 
on  a  huge  fragment  of  rock  which  formed  the  roof  of  the 
tiger's  retreat.  The  entrance,  however,  was  on  the  face  of  the 
hill,  and  was  not  to  be  seen  from  where  we  stood. 

The  men  shouted  and  yelled,  and  dangled  cloths  over  the 
mouth  of  the  cave,  but  the  tiger  showed  no  sign,  and  we  failed 
to  make  any  impression  on  him  by  smoke  or  fire.  We  worked 
at  him  for  upwards  of  two  hours,  but  he  would  not  move.  To 
descend  to  the  mouth  of  the  cave  would  have  placed  us  at  too 
great  a  disadvantage,  for  the  foothold  was  insecure,  and  a  mere 
fall  among  the  rocks  would  probably  have  broken  bones.  At 
length  we  heard  a  faint  cry,  which  some  of  the  men  supposed 
to  come  from  young  bears  or  hyaenas.  After  that  all  was  still. 
We  now  held  a  consultation,  and  agreed  that  the  wisest  course 
would  be  to  return  next  morning  and  explore  the  cave.  We 
concluded  that  the  tiger  would  probably  die,  and  we  should 
get  him  without  further  trouble.  If  his  wound  were  only 
slight,  he  would  leave  during  the  night. 

On  the  following  morning,  about  9  A.M.,  one  of  our  men, 
who  had  been  near  the  cave,  reported  having  observed  an  un- 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         279 

pleasant  odour  arising  from  below,  from  which  he  inferred 
that  the  tiger  was  dead.  We  at  once  went  to  the  place,  and 
climbing  down  the  rock  came  to  the  main  entrance,  where  a 
close  inspection  of  the  cave  at  once  explained  to  us  how  the 
tiger,  which  lay  under  a  mass  of  huge  fragments  of  rock,  had 
been  unaffected  by  the  smoke  and  fire  with  which  we  had 
assailed  him  on  the  previous  evening.  In  the  middle  of  the 
cave,  resting  on  his  back,  lay  the  dead  body  of  the  tiger,  a 
very  large  male.  He  had  probably  died  when  we  heard  the 
cry  among  the  rocks  below  us.  The  night  had  been  very  hot, 
and  the  carcass  had  become  swollen  with  gas  till  it  looked 
positively  monstrous.  Beside  him  was  a  ghastly  mess  of  mas- 
ticated buffalo,  which  he  had  disgorged  in  his  dying  agonies. 
I  entered  the  cave  with  several  of  my  men,  who  proceeded  to 
turn  over  the  huge  beast.  In  so  doing  they  pressed  upon  the 
carcass,  and  the  gas  escaping  from  the  bullet-holes  nearly 
choked  us.  I  was  nearly  stifled,  but,  holding  my  breath,  I 
made  a  rush  at  the  main  entrance  and  gained  the  open  air. 
It  required  a  long  and  a  strong  pull  at  the  brandy-flask  to 
restore  my  equanimity. 

After  allowing  some  time  for  the  atmosphere  to  clear,  we 
re-entered  the  cave,  but  found  it  impossible  to  lift  out  the 
tiger.  We  therefore  resolved  on  skinning  him  as  he  lay.  This 
operation  I  left  to  the  men,  and  we  remained  outside  till  it 
was  completed.  On  cleaning  his  skull,  I  found  he  had  been 
fired  at  on  some  previous  occasion.  The  ball  had  struck  him 
across  the  face  in  front  of  the  eyes,  passing  through  the  bones. 
The  side  on  which  the  ball  had  entered  was  marked  by  a  clean 
round  hole.  On  that  on  which  it  had  passed  out  a  large  frag- 
ment of  bone  had  been  carried  away  ;  but  nature  was  busy 
repairing  the  damage,  and  the  bone  was  throwing  out  growth. 
I  have  this  skull  now  in  Scotland.  It  was  possibly  the  recol- 


280  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

lection  of  his  former  injuries  which  made  him  so  noisy  when 
roused  on  the  previous  day. 

Owing  to  the  time  that  had  elapsed  before  the  skin  was 
removed  I  feared  that  it  would  go  wrong,  and  I  steeped  it  in 
a  strong  solution  of  alum.  Notwithstanding  this  I  was  obliged 
to  throw  it  away.  Had  I  stretched  and  dried  it  in  the  usual 
manner  it  might  perhaps  have  been  saved.  On  the  following 
day  we  moved  -our  camp  towards  Sirdarpore. 

We  halted  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  in  a  very  dreary  and 
horrible  country,  to  which  we  had  been  led  by  the  hope  of 
finding  game.  Colonel  Baigrie  had  visited  this  spot  in  the  year 
1860,  and  was  here  charged  and  severely  bitten  in  the  arm  by 
a  wounded  tigress.  He  owed  his  life  to  the  nerve  and  good 
shooting  of  his  companion.  On  hearing  of  his  mishap,  Dr. 
Gane,  the  medical  officer  at  Sirdarpore,  at  once  went  out  and 
had  him  brought  into  the  cantonment,  where  he  was  carefully 
and  successfully  nursed. 

At  this  camp  shade  and  water  were  alike  scarce.  In  the 
jungle,  close  to  our  tents,  was  a  hideous  idol,  daubed  with 
vermilion  and  smeared  with  oil.  It  was  apparently  an  object 
of  great  veneration,  and  had  been  so  plentifully  anointed  with 
oil  by  worshippers  that  the  ground  around  it  was  completely 
saturated.  Beside  it  a  well  had  been  dug  out  and  faced  with 
stone,  but  the  walls  had  fallen  in,  and  the  oil,  oozing  through 
the  soil,  lay  in  the  bottom  in  a  filthy  pool.  As  we  could  hear 
of  no  game,  and  were  not  bent  on  "  striking  ile,"  we  beat  a 
hasty  retreat  from  this  inhospitable  region.  We  ascended  the 
Ghaut  by  a  long  and  rugged  track  winding  through  the  hills. 
The  march  was  a  severe  one  both  for  servants  and  cattle. 

I  may  here  remark  on  the  excellence  of  good  Indian  ser- 
vants. Faiz  Mahomed  came  to  me  as  head  servant  in  the 
autumn  of  1858,  as  I  was  about  to  start  with  the  field  force. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         281 

He  remained  with  me  till  I  finally  left  India  in  1865.  Dur- 
ing that  time  he  went  through  a  great  deal  of  rough  work, 
both  on  service  and  while  accompanying  me  about  the  hills 
and  jungles  within  my  own  district.  While  I  was  with  the 
force  my  tent  was  always  among  the  first  to  be  pitched  and 
the  last  to  be  struck  ;  and  though  men  would  come  in  and  sit 
talking  till  late  ..at  night,  thereby  greatly  reducing  his  hours 
of  rest,  I  never  heard  a  word  of  complaint  from  him.  When 
marching  on  duty,  or  on  shooting  expeditions,  he  would  serve 
dinner  at  sunset,  and  then,  packing  up  all  his  goods,  would 
see  the  carts  loaded  and  start  off  with  them  about  9  P.M.  The 
roads  were  mere  tracks  over  hills  and  along  dry  watercourses, 
often  encumbered  with  large  stones,  but  by  sunrise  my  tent 
was  always  pitched  on  the  new  ground,  and  my  bath  and 
breakfast  ready  for  me  on  my  arrival.  The  length  of  the 
marches  was  generally  from  eight  to  twelve  miles.  In  all 
matters  connected  with  the  preserving  of  tiger  and  other  skins 
he  was  very  intelligent.  During  the  whole  time  he  was  with 
me  I  had  neither  purse  nor  keys  ;  all  was  under  his  charge. 

No  stores  of  any  kind  being  procurable  within  fifty  miles, 
I  generally  got  out  a  supply  sufficient  to  last  for  six  months. 
Wine,  beer,  oilman's  stores,  groceries,  shot,  powder,  horse- 
shoes, etc.,  all  were  under  his  keeping.  His  pay  was  £1  a 
month,  with  feed  for  a  pony,  and  the  usual  small  percentage 
allowed  on  all  bazaar  purchases. 

Ward  was  to  meet  me  for  some  days'  shooting  on  the 
Mhye,  and  I  accordingly  sent  off  my  camp  and  joined  him 
a  few  miles  north  of  Dhotreea,  in  the  Dhar  district.  Captain 
Bradford,  the  political  agent  in  Western  Malwa,  also  came 
into  camp.  Ward  had  been  out  with  his  own  men,  and  had 
shot  a  bear,  but,  wishing  to  save  the  country  till  our  arrival, 
had  done  no  further  mischief.  Next  morning  we  went  after 


282  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

a  couple  of  bears,  which  had  been  seen  to  enter  one  of  a  num- 
ber of  steep  and  narrow  ravines  running  down  to  the  Mhye. 
They  were  soon  roused,  and  one  coming  out  on  our  side 
was  shot  by  Bradford  and  me.  The  other  was  wounded  by 
Ward,  and  went  off  pursued  by  my  men  of  the  Bheel  corps. 
We  ran  up  to  an  elevated  spot,  from  which  we  got  a 
good  view  of  the  ground,  and  could  see  the  bear  crossing  the 
ravines  with  the  men  in  full  cry.  Now  and  then  a  shot  was 
fired,  but  the  bear  still  kept  ahead,  and  gained  what  seemed  to 
be  a  patch  of  thicker  jungle.  Here,  I  suppose,  he  began  to 
give  in,  for  we  saw  the  men  dive  into  the  bush,  and  soon 
after  heard  several  shots.  Presently  they  all  came  out  into 
an  open  space,  bearing  the  slain  beast,  after  the  manner  of  a 
number  of  ants  removing  the  body  of  a  defunct  wasp. 

Two  other  bears  were  marked  next  morning  near  the  same 
place.  They  had  lain  up  among  masses  of  rock  in  some  open 
ground  between  the  ravines.  They  were  dislodged  by  a  volley 
of  stones,  and  bowled  over  as  they  went  off.  One,  a  large 
male,  attempted  to  charge  back,  but  the  shooting  was  too  good 
for  him,  and  he  succumbed.  Hitherto  we  had  heard  of  no 
tigers,  and  none  of  our  party  having  hunted  this  ground 
before,  we  feared  that  we  should  get  none.  But,  as  we  sat  at 
breakfast  on  the  third  day,  two  of  our  men  came  in  ;  the  one 
reported  two  bears  marked  down  in  the  ravines  beyond  the 
Mhye,  the  other  the  death  of  one  of  our  buffaloes,  which  had 
been  killed  by  a  couple  of  tigers  in  a  ravine  about  three  miles 
to  the  northward. 

Eefreshed  by  this  intelligence,  we  were  soon  ready,  and 
having  sent  Ward's  elephant  and  the  guns  ahead,  we  followed 
on  horseback,  commencing  the  day's  proceedings  with  the 
nobler  game.  The  tigers  were  said  to  be  in  or  about  a  small 
dry  river-bed,  fifteen  paces  in  width,  with  steep  clay  banks 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         283 

twenty-five  feet  high.  Here  and  there  were  thick  masses  of 
high  green  grass,  which  flourished  in  the  moist  sand.  Con- 
nected with  the  main  stream  were  numerous  small  nullahs 
wriggling  down  through  the  scrub-jungle  on  either  side.  No 
suitable  trees  were  near  the  spots  where  the  tigers  might  be 
expected  to  break.  Bradford  and  I,  therefore,  arranged  to 
stand  together,  sending  Ward  to  beat  down  the  river  towards 
us  on  the  elephant.  It  was  not  long  before  we  heard  the  crack 
of  his  rifle,  and  soon  after  a  fine  tigress  came  out  two  hundred 
yards  from  us.  Hoping  that  she  would  soon  lie  up,  we  re- 
frained from  firing,  but  she  held  on  at  a  sharp  trot,  and  though 
some  of  our  men  went  after  her,  they  were  unable  to  mark  her 
down.  Meanwhile,  Ward  had  done  his  work  well.  He  had 
slain  a  very  large  tiger  which  he  found  in  the  long  grass  in 
the  river-bed.  On  being  wounded  he  at  first  attempted  to  get 
away  into  the  surrounding  jungle,  but  failing  in  his  attempt 
to  spring  up  the  steep  clay  bank,  he  turned  and  charged 
viciously.  Ward,  however,  shot  well,  and  dropped  him  as  he 
came  on.  He  was  a  very  old  tiger,  light  in  colour,  and  on  his 
grim  and  scarred  visage  he  bore  the  traces  of  sundry  conflicts 
with  his  fellows.  We  proceeded  to  remove  the  howdah  from 
the  elephant,  and  having  sent  it  back  to  camp  by  some  of  the 
beaters,  we  bound  the  carcass  of  the  tiger  on  the  pad.  Had 
we  tied  him  on  behind  the  howdah,  the  skin  would  probably 
have  been  injured  by  the  friction.  These  arrangements  com- 
pleted, we  partook  of  refreshments,  and  then  went  off  to  look 
after  the  bears,  over  which  two  of  our  men  had  been  on  sentry 
since  morning.  We  found  them  at  the  head  of  a  small  ravine, 
which  terminated  in  an  open  spot  in  the  jungle.  They  were 
quite  concealed  among  the  long  grass,  and  did  not  rise  till  we 
were  close  on  them.  The  larger  bear  showed  first,  and  came 
out  into  the  clear  ground,  where  he  was  at  once  slain.  The 


284  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

other  fled  down  the  ravine,  but  was  speedily  stopped,  and  they 
were  soon  on  their  way  to  camp.  We  had  got  one  large  tiger 
and  a  brace  of  bears,  and  were  well  satisfied  with  the  day's 
work.  Next  morning  we  broke  up  our  camp,  each  man 
returning  to  his  own  district. 


CHAPTEE  XX. 

AUee  Rajpore— Shoot  with  the  Kajah  —  Tigress  shot  — Tigress  killed  in 
Sankree  Tokree  Ravine — A  Long  Shot— Hunt  in  Mogra  Ravine — Tiger 
and  three  Cubs— Cheetah — Move  to  Jhabbooa — Bugore — Dhokul  Sing- 
Big  Tiger  shot — Kullianpore  —  Tigress  shot — Tiger  wounded — Four 
Tigers  at  Bugore — Narrow  Escape  of  Dhokul — Camp  on  Anas  River — 
Large  Tiger  wounded  :  followed  up  and  slain — Boar's  Skull — Tortoise — 
A  Cunning  Tiger — Break  up  the  Camp — Rodent  Bouquet. 

TOWARDS  the  commencement  of  the  hot  season  of  1863  I 
visited  the  chief  of  Allee  Eajpore,  at  the  south-west  corner  of 
my  political  charge.  The  whole  of  this  country  is  occupied 
by  Bheels  and  Bhillalas,  a  race  said  to  have  sprung  from  the 
intermarriages  of  Bheels  with  Eajpoots.  They  are  in  a  small 
degree  more  settled  in  their  habits  than  the  Bheels,  and  are 
more  intelligent  cultivators  ;  but  they  often  suit  their  manners 
to  their  company,  those  who  live  among  the  Bheels  frequently 
joining  in  predatory  excursions.  The  mowa-tree  flourishes 
over  the  whole  district,  and  supplies  a  large  portion  of  the 
food  of  the  inhabitants.  The  soil  is  light  and  sandy,  and  the 
irregular  patches  of  cultivation  are  intermingled  with  rocky 
ridges  and  ravines. 

Being  aware  that  the  chief  was  in  the  habit  of  going  out 
occasionally  after  tigers,  I  supposed  he  had  some  pet  preserve 
not  far  off;  and  on  my  suggesting  that  I  should  like  to 
accompany  him,  he  forthwith  gave  orders  for  his  shikarees 
to  exercise  their  intelligence  in  their  own  department.  Ac- 
cordingly, on  the  day  on  which  I  intended  to  march  I  sent 
off  my  camp  to  the  Hutnee  river,  twelve  miles  to  the  east- 


286  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

ward,  and  taking  with  me  a  couple  of  horsemen  and  my  gun- 
bearers,  I  met  the  Eajah  at  an  early  hour.  He  was  escorted 
by  a  large  following  of  Mekranees  armed  with  swords  and 
guns.  After  riding  about  five  miles  we  were  met  by  the 
shikarees,  who  had  been  out  since  the  previous  day.  They 
assured  us  that  tigers  were  in  the  neighbourhood ;  but  they 
could  give  no  positive  information  as  to  their  actual  position. 
We  therefore  dismounted.  The  Eajah,  who  looked  as  if  he 
had  spent  a  severe  night,  drank  water.  Such  of  the  party  as 
were  addicted  to  tobacco  lit  their  pipes,  and  some  worked  up 
a  little  Dutch  courage  by  a  dose  of  opium. 

After  consultation  I  was  informed  that  a  tract  of  jungle 
was  to  be  driven  by  beaters,  while  the  guns  were  sent  ahead 
to  intercept  the  game.  I  went  off  with  the  Eajah,  but  I  soon 
saw  that  every  man  present  who  carried  a  firearm  considered 
himself  a  "  gun  of  position,"  and  as  such  entitled,  like  Lords 
in  an  English  shooting  party,  to  go  forward.  This  promised  ill 
for  sport ;  but,  being  a  guest,  I  resigned  myself  to  my  fate, 
and,  mounting  a  tree  at  the  place  assigned  to  me,  I  awaited 
the  approach  of  the  beaters.  The  Eajah,  accompanied  by 
eight  or  nine  men,  sat  in  other  trees  about  200  yards  to 
my  right,  while  many  others,  in  groups  of  two  and  three, 
posted  themselves  according  to  their  fancy.  A  strong  odour 
of  tobacco  pervaded  the  air,  and  the  noise  of  coughing  and 
suppressed  talking,  accompanied  by  the  bubbling  of  hookahs, 
was  incessant.  My  anticipations  were  fully  carried  out ; 
we  saw  nothing ;  and  at  the  end  of  the  beat  I  went  up  to  the 
Eajah,  and  suggested  that  I  should  have  the  arrangement  of 
the  next  drive.  This  being  settled,  I  took  the  Eajah,  with 
two  of  his  attendants,  forward,  together  with  my  own  gun- 
bearers  and  the  head  shikaree.  All  other  men  were  directed 
to  go  with  the  beaters. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         287 

We  posted  ourselves  on  the  side  of  a  rocky  hill  overlook- 
ing a  small  sandy  nullah.  "We  had  not  been  long  in  our 
places  when  the  beat  commenced,  and  I  heard  a  tiger  roar 
loudly.  Soon  I  saw  a  tigress  coming  down  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  nullah,  into  which  she  dropped,  and  then,  turning 
to  the  right,  came  along  the  bed  of  the  watercourse  till  she 
was  opposite  my  post.  Eaising  my  rifle,  I  gave  a  low  whistle, 
and  she  at  once  halted,  offering  me  a  fair  shot.  The  ball 
entered  the  point  of  her  shoulder,  and  passing  diagonally 
through,  came  out  behind  the  elbow  on  the  other  side.  She 
gave  one  convulsive  rush  to  the  front,  and  fell  over.  The 
Eajah  had  witnessed  the  shot  from  his  tree,  and  seemed  much 
astonished.  As  I  have  observed  on  similar  occasions,  when 
hunting  with  Indian  chiefs,  he  was  somewhat  disappointed  at 
the  sudden  close,  and  would  perhaps  have  been  more  satisfied 
had  one  or  two  of  his  men  been  clawed  a  little  ;  and  this  not 
from  any  bloodthirsty  feeling,  but  simply  to  give  a  little  zest 
to  the  day's  work.  On  arriving  at  my  camp,  which  I  reached 
about  dusk,  I  found  that  my  own  men  had  followed  the  track 
of  a  large  tiger  into  a  covert  near  the  tents,  and  had  anxiously 
been  awaiting  my  arrival.  It  was  then  too  late  to  do  any- 
thing, so  we  lost  that  chance. 

I  had  brought  with  me  two  of  the  Eajah's  Mekranee 
shikarees,  who  were  well  acquainted  with  the  country  ;  and, 
as  they  suggested  that  a  ravine,  which  lay  about  five  miles 
south  of  our  camp,  might  hold  game,  we  arranged  to  examine 
it  on  the  following  day.  This  ravine,  known  as  the  Sankree 
Tokree,  is  a  tributary  of  the  Hutnee  river.  It  contains  water 
throughout  the  year  ;  and  the  huge  masses  of  rock,  mixed 
with  grass  and  bushes,  along  its  bed,  were  frequently  occupied 
by  tigers.  Being  single-handed,  I  examined  the  ground  very 
carefully  before  commencing  the  beat ;  and  at  length  fixed  on 


288  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

a  tree   overhanging  the  right  bank,  near  the  head  of  the 
ravine. 

The  beaters  entered  below,  and  came  on  shouting  and 
beating  tom-toms.  As  they  advanced  I  heard  a  troop  of 
monkeys  swearing,  as  they  always  do  when  a  tiger  or  panther 
is  on  foot.  Still  I  saw  nothing  ;  and,  as  the  beaters  were  now 
nearly  within  sight  of  my  position,  I  began  to  fear  that  the 
game  had  gone  up  the  side  of  the  ravine  unperceived.  But 
about  150  yards  below  me  was  a  mass  of  detached  rocks,  and 
on  stones  being  hurled  among  them,  a  fine  tigress  sprang  out, 
and  after  coming  a  short  distance  towards  me  turned  up  the 
opposite  bank.  She  was  at  least  120  yards  off  and  moving 
fast,  but  a  lucky  shot  took  her  through  the  loins,  and,  unable 
to  face  the  steep  hill,  she  turned  and  came  scrambling  along 
the  face  in  front  of  my  position.  Eeserving  my  fire,  I  allowed 
her  to  come  on,  and  put  a  shot  in  well  behind  the  shoulder, 
but  just  at  that  moment  she  gained  the  shelter  of  an  over- 
hanging ledge  of  rock  and  disappeared.  I  was  much  vexed, 
for  I  feared  she  had  got  into  some  cave.  However,  I  reloaded, 
and  calling  up  two  or  three  of  my  best  men  to  cover  my 
movements,  I  descended  the  side  of  the  ravine  till  I  could  see 
the  tigress  as  she  lay.  Taking  a  steady  aim,  I  again  fired,  and 
she  rolled  down  into  the  bottom,  where  she  expired. 

Next  day  we  moved  our  tents,  and  encamped  in  the 
jungle  five  miles  to  the  eastward,  and  within  range  of  the 
Mogra  ravine.  My  men  were  soon  scattered  over  the  country, 
and  on  the  following  morning  sent  word  of  game.  Sending 
off  my  guns,  I  followed  on  horseback,  accompanied  by  a 
trooper  of  my  escort.  The  Mogra  ravine  is  one  of  the  best 
spots  for  game  in  that  country,  and  I  have  seldom,  if  ever, 
drawn  it  blank.  On  this  occasion  my  men  reported  a  tigress 
and  cubs.  I  selected  a  tree  close  to  the  bed  of  the  stream, 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         289 

and  having  arranged  myself  comfortably,  sent  orders  for  tlie 
beaters  to  come  on.  As  a  tigress  with  cubs  is  always  inclined 
to  be  dangerous,'  they  advanced  very  slowly,  keeping  up  an 
incessant  noise.  Presently  my  gun-bearer  whispered  that  the 
tiger  was  coming  on,  and  in  a  few  seconds  he  emerged  slowly 
from  a  mass  of  green  willows,  and  came  quietly  towards  me. 
He  was  evidently  annoyed  at  being  disturbed,  stopping  now 
and  then  and  giving  a  quiet  grin,  which  disclosed  his  long 
white  fangs.  I  allowed  him  to  come  within  fifteen  yards,  and 
then  sent  a  two-ounce  ball  crashing  between  his  eyes.  He 
fell  heavily  forward  stone-dead. 

Meanwhile,  the  beaters  advanced,  and  I  hoped  that  they 
would  drive  out  the  tigress,  but  we  never  saw  her.  Three 
cubs,  however,  came  out — small  beasts  about  three  feet  long. 
These  were  shot  by  the  beaters.  The  tiger  I  had  shot  was  a 
large  handsome  beast,  with  a  rich  dark-coloured  skin,  which 
my  men  there  and  then  removed  under  the  deep  shade  of 
some  green  bushes  by  the  water- side.  I  was  half  inclined  to 
go  in  search  of  the  tigress,  but  sundry  native  officials  were 
awaiting  my  return  to  camp  ;  so,  leaving  my  men  to  follow,  I 
mounted  my  horse  and  rode  off  with  my  orderly. 

We  were  passing  through  a  wild  bit  of  country — the  entire 
surface  of  the  ground  being  covered  with  black  sheet  rock, 
thinly  sprinkled  with  short  dry  grass.  Stunted  unjun-trees 
grew  in  all  directions,  and  the  green  of  their  small  dark  foliage 
formed  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  leafless  trees  around  them. 
We  were  cantering  along  the  track  at  a  brisk  pace  when  I  ob- 
served a  large  cheetah  or  hunting  leopard  standing  among  the 
trees  near  the  road.  The  air  was  trembling  with  mirage  from 
the  intense  heat,  and  at  first  sight  I  thought  it  was  a  royal 
tiger,  for  he  loomed  large.  I  hoped  that  my  gun-bearers  might 
not  be  far  off,  and  that  by  heading  the  beast  we  might  induce 

u 


290  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

him  to  lie  up  in  some  covert  till  my  rifles  arrived.  After 
looking  at  us  for  some  time  he  trotted  off,  but,  on  my  canter- 
ing across,  he  halted.  This  sort  of  thing  went  on  for  some 
time,  and  had  the  ground  been  more  favourable  for  riding, 
we  should  have  gone  in  at  him,  for  I  carried  a  revolver,  and 
my  orderly  a  sword  and  lance.  At  last,  however,  he  seemed 
to  think  he  had  seen  enough  of  us,  for  he  made  off  at  a  great 
pace  and  disappeared  into  a  rocky  ravine. 

About  this  time  I  had  arranged  to  meet  Hay  ward,  an  old 
brother  officer,  who  was  coming  out  from  Dohud  to  hunt 
tigers  with  me  in  the  Jhabbooa  district.  I  therefore  moved 
camp,  and  joined  him  on  the  third  day  at  the  town  of  Jhab- 
booa, where  we  were  received  with  much  civility  by  the  young 
Eajah.  But  there  was  no  prospect  of  game  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood,  so  we  moved  north  about  ten  miles,  and  en- 
camped at  Bugore,  sending  off  a  party  of  men  to  Kullianpore, 
five  miles  to  the  eastward.  On  the  following  day  towards  the 
afternoon  we  were  informed  that  a  tiger  had  been  seen  in  a 
jungle  about  two  miles  from  our  tents.  The  ground  in  this 
covert  was  level,  and  covered  with  trees  and  long  dry  grass. 
A  dry  nullah  ran  throughout  its  entire  length. 

Being  anxious  that  Hayward  should  get  the  shot,  I  posted 
him  in  a  tree  in  the  place  which  I  considered  best,  while  I 
mounted  another  about  sixty  yards  to  his  right.  The  beat 
was  arranged  by  Dhokul  Sing,  a  jemadar  of  the  Malwa 
Bheel  corps,  who  always  commanded  my  escort,  and  on  whom 
I  relied  to  mark  down  any  beast  within  ten  miles  of  my 
camp.  He  was  by  caste  a  Naik,  and  had  been  a  hunter  from 
his  youth  up,  betaking  himself  on  all  occasions,  when  off 
duty,  to  the  jungle,  and  seldom  returning  without  some  eat- 
able bird,  beast,  or  fish.  But  at  the  same  time  his  military 
duties  were  not  neglected,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  him 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  291 

half-an-hour  after  our  return  to  camp  after  a  long  and  severe 
day's  work  in  the  jungle.  Having  divested  himself  of  his 
dust-coloured  hunting  dress,  Dhokul  would  appear  in  full 
uniform,  dark  green,  and  red  facings,  and  drawing  himself  up 
would  make  a  salute,  and  report  his  party  "  All  well."  On 
this  occasion  he  was  very  eager,  and  having  seen  us  settled 
into  our  places,  he  went  off,  and  we  presently  heard  the 
beaters  advancing  towards  us.  A  few  minutes  afterwards  a 
»shot  from  Hay  ward's  tree  was  followed  by  a  loud  roar.  Then 
two  or  three  more  shots,  and  savage  growls  of  a  tiger  evidently 
wounded.  Soon  after  Hayward  called  out  that  he  had 
wounded  a  large  tiger,  which  lay  disabled  in  the  bed  of  the 
nullah,  but  having  dropped  his  loading-rod  he  was  unable  to 
re-charge  his  rifle.  He  therefore  suggested  that  I  should  come 
and  give  him  his  quietus.  As  the  ground  between  us  was 
thickly  covered  with  grass  and  bushes,  and  I  knew  not  the 
precise  position  of  the  wounded  beast,  I  did  not  care  to  come 
down  ;  but  at  length,  on  being  assured  that  the  tiger  did  not 
seem  inclined  or  able  to  move,  I  descended. 

I  had  reached  the  ground  when  I  heard  renewed  shouting 
from  the  beaters,  and  rightly  judging  that  another  tiger  was 
on  foot,  I  scrambled  up  again,  just  in  time  to  see  it  break 
away  to  my  right.  In  the  meantime  one  of  my  men  who 
was  with  Hayward  had  quietly  got  down  from  the  tree,  and 
having  recovered  the  loading-rod,  enabled  him  to  reload  and 
give  the  wounded  beast  the  coup  de  grace.  He  was  a  very 
large  male  tiger,  and  we  bore  him  home  to  the  camp,  where 
we  spent  the  evening  in  pegging  out  his  skin.  Next  morning 
we  were  summoned  to  Kullianpore,  where  tigers  had  been 
marked  in  two  places.  In  the  first  beat,  which  was  over  some 
rough  open  ground,  a  tigress  came  out  and  was  shot  by  Hay- 
ward.  We  then  moved  over  to  the  river,  where  a  large  tiger 


292  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

was  said  to  have  lain  up.  Below  the  cypress  in  which  he 
had  taken  up  his  quarters  the  covert  became  a  mere  strip, 
some  twenty  yards  in  width,  and  here  HaywarcL  took  up  his 
position  in  a  tree,  while  I  was  posted  in  another  on  the  far 
side  of  the  bed  of  the  stream.  Unfortunately,  Hayward  had 
neglected  to  secure  a  proper  seat,  and  had  contented  himself 
with  having  his  face  to  the  quarter  from  which  the  tiger  was 
expected.  It  is  seldom  that  the  shooter,  when  perched  on  a 
branch,  can  turn  quickly  so  as  to  shoot  to  the  right.  He 
should  therefore  place  himself  facing  to  the  right  with  his  left 
shoulder  towards  the  ~beat.  By  taking  this  precaution  he  will 
secure  a  wide  sweep  for  his  rifle,  and  a  beast  will  seldom 
escape. 

On  this  occasion  the  tiger  passed  on  the  right  of  Hayward, 
who  was  unable  to  turn  to  take  aim.  From  my  position  on 
the  opposite  bank  I  saw  his  dilemma,  but  could  not  fire  till 
the  tiger  was  clear  of  his  tree,  and  by  that  time  my  view  was 
obstructed  by  intervening  bushes.  However,  I  managed  to 
wound  the  tiger,  but  did  not  stop  him,  and  he  went  off  down 
the  river.  A  palaver  was  held,  and  it  was  settled  that  the 
guns  should  again  go  ahead  while  the  beaters  came  forward 
cautiously  in  a  compact  body.  Hayward  therefore  climbed 
another  tree,  while  I  went  forward  and  stationed  myself  on 
the  elephant  to  his  right.  As  the  beaters  came  on  he  observed 
the  wounded  tiger  emerge  from  the  thicket  aboiit  120  yards 
on  his  left,  and,  raising  the  sight  of  his  rifle,  he  was  about  to 
fire,  when  another  tiger  came  out  in  front  of  him  and  was 
passing  within  a  few  yards.  Forgetting  that  he  had  raised 
the  high  sight,  he  transferred  his  aim  to  the  new  comer,  and  of 
course  fired  over  him,  thereby  losing  both.  Altogether  it  was 
most  unfortunate.  We  tried  to  follow  up  the  wounded  tiger, 
but  could  make  nothing  of  it.  The  ground  was  unsuited  for 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         293 

the  elephant,  and  we  had  seen  enough  of  him  to  know  that  he 
would  be  unpleasant  to  meet  on  foot.  We  therefore  returned 
to  camp,  hoping  for  better  luck  next  time. 

On  the  following  day  we  remained  at  home,  but  early 
next  morning  Dhokul  appeared  and  reported  a  buffalo  slain 
near  the  spot  where  the  large  tiger  had  been  shot  two  days 
before.  He  added  that,  as  the  entire  carcass  had  disappeared, 
and  the  ground  was  much  trampled,  we  might  expect  more 
tigers  than  one.  This  day  I  had  choice  of  positions,  and  I 
selected  a  tree  in  an  angle  formed  by  a  bend  in  the  bed  of 
the  nullah,  and  about  fifty  yards  from  the  bank,  for,  as  a 
rule,  beasts  will  seldom  follow  the  course  of  a  stream  or 
ravine  round  a  corner,  but  will  leave  the  bed  and  cross  over 
the  angle.  In  addition  to  my  gun-bearer,  who  sat  beside  me, 
I  posted  a  man  high  up  in  a  tree  to  my  front,  with  orders  to 
give  intimation  by  signs  of  the  approach  of  any  beast.  Hay- 
ward  was  in  another  tree  on  my  right  near  the  bed  of  the 
nullah.  Soon  after  the  beaters  entered  the  covert  a  very 
handsome  tigress  came  out  about  forty  yards  on  my  left 
front.  She  was  a  fine  lissom  beast,  with  a  long  well-shaped 
neck,  clean  head;  and  a  rich  bright  skin.  I  had  a  fair  shot 
at  her,  but  though  I  fired  twice  she  was  untouched  beyond  a 
slight  graze  across  the  forearm.  Bounding  away,  she  went 
off  into  the  covert  behind  us,  leaving  me  very  much  ashamed 
of  myself. 

Quickly  reloading,  I  sat  quiet,  and  soon  after  my  look-out 
man  held  up  one  finger  and  pointed  into  the  grass  below  him. 
Presently  he  held  up  two  fingers,  and  two  young  tigers,  nearly 
full-grown,  came  stalking  out.  I  dropped  them  both  right 
and  left,  and  then  gave  each  another  shot  from  my  second 
rifle  ;  but  they  got  away  into  the  long  grass,  and  I  feared  lest 
they  should  damage  the  beaters.  Shouting  to  them  to  halt 


294  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

and  crowd  into  one  or  two  compact  bodies,  I  called  up  the 
elephant,  on  which  I  mounted,  and  having  hunted  them  out 
of  the  long  grass,  I  slew  these  two  tigers.  I  then,  with  shame 
and  confusion  of  face,  explained  to  Dhokul  how  I  had  missed 
the  tigress,  and,  as  he  believed  she  would  not  go  far,  we  left 
the  beaters,  and  passing  outside  the  covert,  took  up  fresh  posi- 
tions across  the  jungle  about  half-a-mile  higher  up.  Hayward 
was  again  on  the  right,  I  in  the  centre,  and  as  the  ground  was 
more  than  we  could  cover,  I  directed  Dhokul  to  take  up  a 
position  on  my  left.  My  signal-man  I  posted  as  before,  and 
as  the  beaters  came  on  he  intimated  to  me  that  a  tiger  was 
moving  towards  Dhokul.  Soon  after  I  heard  the  report  of 
his  gun,  followed  by  roars  from  the  tiger,  and  then  all  was 
still. 

After  a  short  time  I  called  out,  and  received  a  reply  that 
the  tiger  had  been  hard  hit  and  had  gone  back.  As  it  was 
important  that  the  beaters  should  not  be  allowed  to  walk 
blindly  into  danger,  I  directed  Dhokul  to  descend  from  his 
tree,  and,  having  passed  round  behind  Hayward  and  myself, 
to  get  back  outside  the  covert  and  prevent- them  from  coming 
on.  He  was  further  told  to  bring  up  the  elephant.  Alive  to 
the  importance  of  the  order,  he  came  down,  and  was  passing 
between  me  and  Hayward  when  my  signal-man  called  out  that 
the  tiger  was  coming  on.  Sure  enough,  there  she  was,  coming 
right  up  the  bed  of  the  nullah  at  a  long  trot,  and  I  at  once  re- 
cognised the  tigress  I  had  missed  in  the  first  beat.  I  trembled 
for  Dhokul,  for  he  was  fair  in  her  path,  and  shouting  to  him 
to  mount  a  tree,  I  fired.  Beyond  a  flesh-wound  in  the  forearm 
I  did  no  mischief,  and  with  a  savage  roar  the  tigress  charged 
straight  for  Dhokul.  She  was  within  a  few  paces  of  the  man ; 
another  bound,  and  she  would  have  had  him.  Screwing  my- 
self round  on  the  bough  on  which  I  sat,  I  fired  my  second 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         295 

shot.  The  heavy  ball  crashed  through  her  skull,  and  the 
tigress  fell  heels  over  head,  and  lay  dead  below  us. 

A  wah!  wah!  of  approbation  came  from  my  men,  who 
had  witnessed  the  shot,  and  peace  flowed  into  my  soul  as  I 
proceeded  to  reload.  Dhokul  took  matters  very  coolly,  and 
remarked  that  his  "  kismet "  was  in  the  ascendant,  but  he  also 
added  that  the  tiger  just  slain  was  not  that  at  which  he  had 
fired,  and  which  he  was  certain  was  too  badly  wounded  to 
have  charged  in  that  style.  He  therefore  went  off,  and  this 
time  succeeded  in  stopping  the  beaters  and  bringing  up  the 
elephant.  We  at  once  mounted,  and,  on  pushing  into  the 
covert,  came  on  the  wounded  beast.  It  also  was  a  tigress,  but 
very  old  and  light  in  colour.  She  immediately  charged,  but 
was  stopped  before  she  could  do  mischief.  Thus  ended  the 
day's  sport,  and  we  had  good  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves 
on  its  result,  for  we  had  bagged  four  fine  tigers. 

We  had  enough  to  do  on  the  morning  cleaning  and  pegging 
out  the  skins.  Though  we  halted  at  this  place  on  the  two 
following  days  we  heard  of  no  more  tigers,  and  accordingly 
moved  north-west  to  the  Anas  river,  where  we  encamped  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream.  A  rough  tree-jungle,  cut  up  with 
ravines,  stretched  away  on  all  sides,  and  about  a  mile  below 
our  tents  rose  an  abrupt  hill,  having  its  summit  scarped  with 
white  quartz  rocks,  while  the  base  was  fringed  with  bamboos 
and  other  jungle.  At  the  southern  end  of  this  hill  was  a 
small  ravine,  and  at  its  entrance  a  buffalo,  which  had  been 
tied  up,  was  killed  and  partially  eaten  two  days  after  our 
arrival.  We  posted  ourselves  in  trees  on  the  slope  of  the 
south  end  of  the  hill,  and  sent  our  men  round  to  drive  the 
ravine  down  towards  us. 

We  had  not  been  long  at  our  stations  before  I  saw  a  very 
large  male  tiger  coming  stealthily  up  towards  me  through  a 


296  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

thicket  of  bamboos.  I  hoped  he  would  have  come  straight 
on,  but  he  suddenly  turned  sharp  up  the  hill.  Seeing  that  I 
should  not  get  another  chance,  I  fired,  but  my  view  was  inter- 
cepted by  boughs  of  trees,  and  though  the  ball  struck  the 
tiger  behind  the  shoulder,  the  wound  was  too  far  back  to  take 
immediate  effect.  He  growled  and  rushed  to  the  front,  where 
he  disappeared  behind  a  spur  of  the  hill,  after  which  he 
turned  and  went  back  through  the  beaters,  one  of  whom  shot 
an  arrow  into  him  as  he  went  by. 

We  determined  to  follow  him  up  on  the  elephant,  but  the 
hill  was  so  steep  that  we  feared  we  should  never  get  him  up 
the  face.  But  the  mahout  said  he  thought  it  could  be  managed, 
and  at  length,  after  great  difficulty,  the  huge  brute  reached 
the  summit.  It  was  wonderful  to  see  the  sagacity  with  which 
he  moved,  supporting  himself  at  some  of  the  steeper  parts  on 
his  tusks  and  knees,  but  steadily  working  upwards.  On  gain- 
ing the  summit,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  tolerably  level  tree- 
jungle  which  had  been  recently  burnt,  and  the  footprints  of 
the  tiger  were  plainly  visible  on  the  white  ashes  of  the  grass. 
Blood  too  was  plentiful,  and  in  several  places  we  could  see 
where  the  wounded  tiger  had  lain  down.  Dhokul  with  several 
of  his  men  had  hitherto  moved  in  front  of  the  elephant, 
following  up  the  track,  while  we  kept  a  sharp  look-out  in  the 
open  ground  ahead.  But  as,  from  certain  well-known  signs, 
we  now  knew  that  the  tiger  could  not  be  far  off,  we  directed 
them  to  fall  back,  while  we  went  slowly  forward  on  the 
elephant.  Presently  we  heard  a  low  rumbling  sound,  which 
at  first  we  thought  was  made  by  the  elephant,  but  the  mahout, 
halting,  declared  it  was  the  tiger.  On  all  sides  the  ground 
was  clear  of  grass,  but  we  could  see  nothing. 

About  twenty-five  paces  to  our  front  was  a  small  teak- tree 
which  had  been  bent  over  along  the  ground,  and  which  still 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         29*7 

retained  some  of  its  broad  leaves.  Immediately  below  this 
tree  was  a  small  furrow  in  the  ground,  in  which,  guided  by  his 
growls,  we  at  length  caught  sight  of  the  tiger  crouching  for  his 
charge.  But  before  he  could  rise,  our  two  rifles  cracked,  and 
though  he  still  came  on  open-mouthed  and  roaring  savagely, 
he  was  quite  disabled,  and  another  shot  finished  him. 

From  the  above  may  be  seen  the  very  great  danger  of  fol- 
lowing wounded  tigers  on  foot.  In  the  present  instance  the 
ground  was  open  below  and  clear  of  grass,  but  so  great  was 
the  hiding  power  of  the  animal,  and  so  wonderfully  did  the 
black  and  yellow  of  his  skin  blend  with  the  parched  ground, 
that,  but  for  our  elevated  position  on  the  howdah,  we  might 
have  walked  unconsciously  into  his  jaws.  Close  to  where  he 
fell  we  found  the  skull  of  a  gigantic  wild  boar,  which  had  pos- 
sibly formed  a  meal  'to  the  beast  we  had  just  slain.  While 
following  up  the  tiger  we  captured  a  good  specimen  of  the 
land  tortoise. 

Two  miles  farther  up,  the  river  becomes  deeper  and  more 
confined,  containing  deep  pools  hemmed  in  by  rocks.  Here 
we  occasionally  saw  troops  of  otters,  old  and  young,  disporting 
themselves  in  the  clear  water,  and  no  doubt  feasting  plentifully 
on  the  fish,  which  were  numerous.  Near  this  spot  several  of 
)ur  buffaloes  were  killed  by  a  very  large  tiger.  His  footprints 
were  enormous,  but  we  were  never  able  to  trace  him  to  his 
lair,  and  though  on  several  occasions  we  hunted  out  every 
covert  and  ravine  in  the  neighbourhood,  we  never  saw  him. 
Probably  he  had  some  safe  retreat  in  a  deep  fissure  among  the 
rocks,  from  which  he  only  emerged  at  nightfall.  Two  of  my 
men  sat  up  one  night  on  a  small  platform  in  a  tree  over  the 
remains  of  the  last  buffalo  which  he  killed.  Soon  after  dark  the 
tiger  appeared,  but  I  imagine  there  was  some  jealousy  between 
the  men  as  to  who  should  have  the  honour  of  the  first  shot, 


298  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

for  they  fired  hurriedly  and  without  effect,  and  the  tiger 
went  off. 

Next  day  we  broke  up  our  camp,  my  friend  returning  to 
Dohud,  while  I  set  my  face  towards  Sirdarpore.  On  entering 
my  tent  at  the  end  of  the  second  march,  I  was  overpowered  by  a 
horrible  odour,  and  taxed  the  servants  with  having  encamped 
over  the  remains  of  some  decayed  carcass.  The  carpets  were 
lifted  and  the  ground  examined,  and  a  fire  was  lit  in  the  tent 
to  purify  the  atmosphere,  but  with  no  effect.  At  length  I 
ordered  the  partition  curtain  to  be  shaken  out,  and  in  its  folds 
I  found  a  squashed  rat,  which  had  no  doubt  perished  when 
the  tent  was  struck  three  days  before,  and  in  the  interval  had 
attained  a  height  which  was  truly  epicurean. 


CHAPTEE  XXL 

Bang — Bhoodist  Caves — A  Recluse — Four  Tigers  tracked— Cub  shot — Bears  and 
Bees — Dhokul  shoots  a  Cub — Tigress  and  Cub  shot — Peacocks — Mogra 
Ravine— Jungle  on  fire — Bear  shot — A  tiger  escapes — Dog  attacked  by 
Panther— Tigress  shot— Bull  killed  by  a  Tiger— Stalking  Tactics— Plat- 
form-shooting by  night — Hysena  shot — Tiger  killed — Move  to  Tanda — 
Tiger  shot— Death  of  Foorsut— The  Bag. 

ABOUT  the  early  part  of  the  month  of  February  1864, 1  visited 
Bang,  in  company  with  Captain  P.  Bannerman  and  his  family. 
This  place,  though  now  only  a  village,  was  formerly  of  con- 
siderable importance,  and  its  antiquity  is  evidently  very 
great.  The  larger  portion  of  the  modern  houses  is  built  with 
large  flat  bricks  of  very  superior  quality,  which  have  been  dug 
out  from  the  numerous  buildings  occupied  by  the  earlier  in- 
habitants, but  now  fallen  to  decay  and  covered  over  with  earth 
and  rubbish.  The  town  is  overlooked  on  the  north  side  by  an 
oblong  fort  standing  on  a  spur  of  elevated  ground.  It  con- 
sists of  a  thick  wall  of  red  sandstone,  which,  together  with  a 
strong  gateway,  is  in  tolerably  good  repair.  The  Waugnee 
river  lies  on  the  south  side.  Its  bed  is  broad  and  sandy,  and 
during  the  hot  months  the  stream  ceases  to  flow.  The 
surrounding  territory  is  a  wild,  hilly  tract,  covered  with 
thick  thorny  jungle.  The  soil  is  rich  in  iron  ore,  and  in 
many  places  the  old  iron-pits  may  be  seen,  long  since  deserted 
by  the  miners,  and  now  the  favourite  resort  of  wild  beasts. 

But  Baug  is  chiefly  interesting  for  the  rock-cut  Bhoodist 
temples  in  its  vicinity.     On  the  left  bank  of  the  Waugnee 


300  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

river,  about  two  miles  below  the  town,  stands  a  hill  of  coarse  free- 
stone rock,  the  whole  face  of  which,  for  several  hundred  yards, 
has  been  deeply  excavated.  But  time  and  the  action  of  the 
weather  has  brought  down  a  large  portion  of  the  face  of  the  cliff, 
and  the  entrances  to  most  of  the  caves  are  choked  up  with  debris 
and  jungle,  openings  here  and  there  being  kept  clear  by  the  bears, 
panthers,  and  hyaenas,  who  are  now  the  principal  occupants. 
The  northernmost  cave  is  still  in  good  order.  The  entrance 
is  approached  from  the  bed  of  the  river  by  rude  steps,  and 
passing  in  by  a  small  gateway,  a  spacious  hall  is  discovered, 
excavated  entirely  from  the  solid  rock,  and  having  its  roof 
supported  by  huge  pillars  hewn  out  in  the  natural  stone.  At 
the  innermost  end  of  the  cave  are  gigantic  stone  figures,  three 
in  number,  carved  on  the  face  of  the  rock.  The  effect,  when 
viewed  by  torchlight,  is  very  grand.  With  the  exception  of 
numerous  bats  which  cling  to  the  roof,  the  sole  occupant  of 
this  cave  was  a  weird-looking  Hindoo  recluse,  who,  when  not 
begging  about  the  surrounding  country,  spent  his  time  sitting  or 
sleeping  among  the  ashes  of  his  fire.  This  was  his  home  day  and 
night ;  and  as  he  sat  with  his  body  covered  only  with  white 
wood  ashes,  and  his  long  hair  matted  and  browned  by  sun  and 
rain,  he  seemed  a  fit  companion  for  his  neighbours  in  the 
adjoining  caves.  Truly  the  religious  feelings  must  be  strong 
which  induce  a  man  to  adopt  such  a  life. 

I  had  sent  out  my  men  at  an  early  hour  to  mark  game, 
and  had  gone  out  for  a  ride  with  Captain  Bannerman.  When 
crossing  the  river  a  short  distance  above  the  town,  I  came  on 
the  fresh  footprints  of  four  tigers  which  had  passed  in  the 
early  morning.  The  troop  consisted  of  a  large  tiger,  tigress, 
and  two  three -parts -grown  cubs.  My  men  came  in  about 
9  A.M.,  having  found  nothing,  and  looked  rather  ashamed  of 
themselves  when  I  told  them  what  I  had  seen.  They  at  once 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         301 

set  off,  and  later  in  the  day  returned,  having  taken  the  tracks 
up  to  an  iron-pit.  We  at  once  sallied  forth,  and,  standing  near 
the  brink,  hurled  in  stones,  but  the  tigers,  had  passed  on.  We 
hunted  about  for  some  time  in  the  neighbouring  jungle,  and 
got  a  glimpse  of  one  tiger,  but  returned  home  empty-handed. 

Next  morning,  however,  we  got  word  of  the  tigress  having 
been  seen  in  a  strip  of  out-lying  jungle,  and  having  posted  our- 
selves in  trees  we  sent  men  round  to  drive.  Captain  Bannerman 
was  not  skilled  in  woodcraft,  and  seldom  handled  a  gun,  but 
on  this  occasion  he  armed  himself  with  one  of  my  rifles,  and 
sat  in  a  tree  about  forty  yards  to  my  right.  As  the  beaters 
advanced  I  heard  the  footsteps  of  a  tiger  among  the  dry 
leaves,  and  soon  after  I  caught  sight  of  one  of  the  cubs  making 
off  along  the  face  of  a  bank  beyond  Captain  Bannerman.  My 
view  was  greatly  obstructed  by  trees,  but  I  made  a  lucky  shot 
and  dropped  the  tiger  dead.  The  tigress  got  away,  and  we 
did  not  see  her. 

An  adjoining  bit  of  jungle  was  beaten  without  success, 
but  here  we  came  on  fresh  marks  of  bears.  High  up  in  the 
branches  of  some  lofty  trees  hung  the  combs  of  bees,  and 
though  the  bark  was  white  and  smooth,  and  the  trees  clear  of 
branches  to  a  height  of  forty  feet,  they  were  deeply  scored  by 
the  claw-marks,  old  and  recent,  of  many  bears. 

Three  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Baug  lay  a  ravine  in 
which  my  men  reported  another  troop  of  tigers,  and  four 
miles  farther  on  was  the  Mogra  ravine,  described  in  the 
last  chapter.  The  first  ravine  I  hunted  from  Baug,  I  saw  the 
big  tiger,  but  he  went  up  the  side  of  a  hill,  out  of  shot,  and 
got  away.  Dhokul,  however,  fired  at  and  killed  one  of  the 
cubs,  a  small  beast,  about  six  feet  in  length.  On  two  subse- 
quent occasions  I  hunted  here,  but  though  the  tigress  was 
often  seen  by  the  beaters  she  always  kept  clear  of  my  post. 


302  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

However,  I  shot  a  fine  panther,  which  gave  us  some  good 
sport,  in  a  bit  of  open  jungle,  where  he  charged  my  elephant 
with  great  ferocity. 

One  morning  the  tigress  was  seen  to  enter  a  small  ravine 
about  one  hundred  yards  in  length,  which  we  had  hitherto 
deemed  unworthy  of  notice.  Creeping  quietly  forward,  I 
climbed  a  tree  in  a  good  position,  and  as  she  came  out  I 
rolled  her  over.  She  was  up  again  in  an  instant,  and  slunk 
back  into  the  cover,  into  which  I  followed  her  on  the  elephant. 
Presently  I  spied  her  remaining  cub  lying  at  full  length, 
broadside  on,  on  a  ledge  of  rock  on  the  side  of  the  ravine.  I 
fired,  and  as  the  ball  struck  the  tiger  it  bounded  straight  out 
into  the  air,  and,  falling  on  the  slope,  danced  down  to  the 
bottom  on  its  hind  legs,  like  a  cat  in  a  child's  picture-book. 
The  wound  was  mortal,  and  it  fell  dead.  Soon  after  I  got  a 
sight  of  the  tigress,  which  lay  hidden  by  some  thick  creeping 
plants.  Not  wishing  to  spoil  the  skin,  I  hesitated  to  fire  till 
I  could  be  sure  of  killing  her.  She  suddenly  rose,  and,  rush- 
ing off  through  the  bushes,  got  away,  and  leaving  the  ravine, 
made  off  down  the  river.  We  followed  for  some  distance, 
and  it  was  only  after  I  had  almost  given  her  up  for  lost  that 
some  of  my  men  caught  sight  of  her  in  a  thick  bush  into 
which  she  had  crept.  This  time  I  give  her  no  law,  and  a 
shot  through  the  head  closed  the  affair. 

On  my  way  back  to  camp  I  was  mounted  on  my  riding 
camel,  having  Dhokul,  who  was  as  usual  armed  with  his  re- 
gimental carbine  of  the  old  Brown  Bess  pattern,  on  the  seat 
behind  me.  On  the  side  of  a  hill,  near  the  tents,  I  saw  several 
peacocks  sitting  among  the  rocks,  and,  halting  the  camel,  I 
fired  from  his  back,  sending  the  musket-ball  through  a  fine 
cock  at  a  distance  of  about  eighty  yards. 

About  this  time  Captain  Bannerinan  left  me,  and  I  moved 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         303 

my  camp  to  the  Mogra.  I  found  fresh  tracks  of  several  tigers, 
but  I  was  too  early  in  the  season,  and  the  long  grass  in  and 
about  the  ravine  was  unburnt.  I  therefore  determined  to 
return  to  Baug,  as  it  was  my  intention  to  hunt  the  whole 
country,  in  April  and  May,  with  some  friends  from  the  Mhow 
garrison.  I  went  out  with  some  of  my  men  in  the  afternoon, 
and  having  fired  the  jungle  in  many  places,  I  went  home.  I 
had  just  dined,  and  was  sitting  in  my  arm-chair  outside  the 
tent,  when  I  heard  a  cry  of  "  Fire  ! "  and,  jumping  up,  I  saw 
the  hill-side  in  a  mass  of  flame,  which  was  rapidly  advancing 
towards  our  camp.  Fortunately  a  small  clear  space  lay  be- 
tween us  and  the  long  dry  grass,  and  we  managed  to  beat  out 
the  fire  without  any  damage  being  done. 

On  my  way  to  Baug  I  again  hunted  in  the  ravine  where  I 
had  shot  the  tigress  and  cub.  We  had  turned  out  a  bear, 
which  I  shot  as  it  passed  under  me,  but  had  not  fallen  in  with 
the  tiger ;  and  I  was  preparing  to  start  for  the  tents  when 
one  of  my  men  drew  my  attention  to  a  yellow  object  among  a 
mass  of  rock  and  bamboo  high  up  on  the  hill-side,  about  two 
hundred  yards  from  where  we  stood.  He  remarked  that  it 
resembled  a  tiger's  head,  and,  sure  enough,  as  we  watched  it, 
we  saw  the  huge  jaws  gape  as  the  mighty  beast  indulged  in  a 
good  yawn.  As  I  feared  that  he  would  make  off  I  quickly 
mounted  the  elephant  and  went  towards  him,  but  found,  as  I 
reached  the  base  of  the  hill,  that  the  view  was  impeded  by 
trees  and  bushes.  Just  then  the  elephant  gave  a  loud  shriek. 
The  tiger  rose.  I  had  an  unsteady  shot,  and  missed,  and  he 
went  off  over  the  hill  and  was  no  more  seen.  I  was  greatly 
vexed,  for  I  believe  I  lost  this  fine  tiger  through  my  own  fault. 
Had  I  quietly  posted  myself  in  a  tree,  and  sent  men  to  drive, 
I  should  probably  have  bagged  him.  But  tiger-shooting,  like 
other  things,  can  only  be  learnt  by  experience. 


304  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

That  night  I  was  sleeping  in  my  tent  at  Baug,  when  my 
dreams  were  rudely  disturbed.  My  three  dogs — Bugler, 
Boomerang,  and  Batchelor, — rough-and-ready  beasts,  half-bull- 
dog and  half-greyhound,  were  chained,  one  at  the  head,  an- 
other at  the  side,  and  the  third  at  the  foot  of  my  bed.  Close 
to  my  head,  in  the  corner  of  the  tent,  stood  my  guns  and 
rifles,  four  in  number.  Below  the  pillow  were  two  five-cham- 
bered revolvers,  and  on  my  right  side,  under  the  thin  quilt  on 
which  I  slept,  lay  my  drawn  sword.  The  night  was  very 
dark,  and  some  watchmen,  who  had  been  sent  as  a  guard  by 
the  village  authorities,  were  sleeping  soundly  round  their 
smouldering  fire,  when  I  was  awoke  by  a  fearsome  yelling  of 
dogs.  A  dreadful  struggle  was  going  on  beside  me  ;  the  dogs 
were  plunging  about  and  tugging  at  their  chains,  but  I  could 
see  nothing.  I,  however,  at  once  guessed  that  one  of  them 
had  been  seized  by  a  panther.  Though  armed  with  gun, 
sword,  and  pistol,  I  feared  to  use  them  in  the  dark,  so,  spring- 
ing up,  I  shouted  loudly,  and  flacked  about  with  my  blanket. 
The  scuffling  ceased,  I  heard  a  sudden  rush  and  then  all  was 
quiet  save  the  whining  of  the  dogs.  By  this  time  my  servants, 
who  slept  in  a  separate  tent  at  some  distance,  were  aroused, 
and  came  over  bearing  a  lantern.  Poor  Boomerang  was  found 
with  his  throat  fearfully  lacerated,  and  in  the  dust  outside  the 
door  of  the  tent  were  the  footprints  of  a  large  panther.  Had 
the  dog  not  been  chained,  he  would  no  doubt  have  been  car- 
ried off  and  eaten.  His  head  and  neck  were  greatly  swollen 
for  some  days,  but  he  soon  recovered,  and  was  none  the  worse. 
For  several  nights  I  set  my  iron  trap  baited  with  a  dead  pariah 
dog,  but  the  panther  did  not  return. 

Towards  the  afternoon  a  villager  came  in,  and  reported 
having  marked  a  panther  down  in  a  jungle  about  two  miles 
from  our  camp.  I  went  out,  and  go  ta  distant  view  of  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         305 

beast,  but  did  not  fire,  and  was  on  my  way  home  when  one 
of  my  men,  who  had  followed  us  by  a  short  cut,  came  up  and 
informed  us  that  he  had  seen  a  tiger  close  by.  The  jungle 
was  a  difficult  one  to  beat,  consisting  of  thorny  bushes  ten 
feet  in  height,  and  it  seemed  impossible  to  form  any  opinion 
as  to  the  direction  in  which  the  tiger  might  break.  I  trusted 
entirely  to  the  Bheels,  and  mounted  into  one  of  the  few  trees 
near  the  spot.  Before  me  was  a  tolerably  open  space,  which 
I  hoped  the  tiger  might  cross.  By  the  shouts  of  the  beaters 
I  soon  knew  the  beast  was  started,  and  presently  a  fine  tigress 
came  out,  and  stood  facing  me  at  the  edge  of  the  thicket,  sixty 
yards  to  my  front.  The  chance  was  too  good  to  lose.  I  fired 
at  once,  striking  her  fair  in  the  chest,  and,  with  a  savage 
growl,  she  charged  straight  at  me.  She  was  very  noisy,  anc^ 
no  doubt  meant  mischief ;  but,  apparently  disappointed  at  not 
finding  me  on  the  ground,  she  dashed  on,  and,  as  she  passed 
below,  I  gave  her  the  second  shot  through  the  back.  At  the 
same  time  I  shouted  to  attract  her  attention,  hoping  that  she 
might  halt  and  allow  my  second  rifle  to  come  into  play  ;  but 
she  passed  over  the  ridge  and  disappeared.  I  followed  on  the 
elephant,  and  soon  came  on  her,  lying  down  and  very  sick. 
Another  shot  finished  her. 

Next  morning  I  was  informed  that  a  large  Brahminee 
bull  had  been  killed  during  the  night  by  a  tiger,  close  to  the 
village,  and  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  my  camp.  These 
bulls  are  usually  turned  out  in  the  name  of  the  Deity  by 
some  devout  Hindoo.  From  that  moment  they  are  regarded 
as  sacred,  and  roam  at  will  through  the  crowded  bazaars  and 
cultivated  lands,  living,  like  some  other  church  dignitaries,  on 
the  fat  of  the  land.  I  went  out  to  examine  the  scene  of 
slaughter,  and,  under  some  trees,  by  a  well  used  for  irrigation, 
lay  the  dead  bull,  with  the  marks  of  the  huge  fangs  of  the 


306  WILD   MEN  AND   WILD   BEASTS. 

tiger  on  his  neck,  and  sundry  claw-marks  on  his  sides. 
Immediately  beside  the  well  the  ground  had  been  irrigated  on 
the  previous  day  for  a  young  crop.  About  one  hundred  yards 
off  was  some  green  wheat,  in  which  the  bull  had  been  feeding 
when  first  attacked,  while  farther  off  was  a  watercourse,  used 
during  the  dry  season  as  a  road,  along  which  the  tiger  had 
advanced.  Following  the  footprints  in  the  dust  and  moist 
ground,  the  whole  scene  was  brought  vividly  before  us. 

Passing  along  the  watercourse  in  his  nocturnal  ramble, 
the  tiger  had  seen  the  bull  grazing  in  the  green  wheat,  and, 
standing  with  his  two  fore-paws  on  the  side  of  the  bank,  had 
formed  his  plan  of  operations.  Keeping  under  the  shelter  of 
the  bank  up  to  the  nearest  point,  he  had  slipped  quietly  up 
on  the  cultivated  ground,  and  had  then  crept  along  unper- 
cieved  till  he  reached  the  wheat.  Crouching  along  the  edge 
of  the  high  crop,  he  had  approached  his  prey  unperceived,  till 
within  reach  for  his  final  rush.  Then  came  the  tug  of  war. 
From  this  point  to  the  edge  of  the  field  the  wheat  was  beaten 
down,  and  here,  and  in  the  moist  ground  beyond,  the  foot- 
prints of  bull  and  tiger  were  deeply  marked.  No  part  of  the 
bull  had  been  eaten,  and  we  hoped  that  the  tiger,  which  was 
evidently  a  very  large  one,  would  return  at  night.  My  men 
made  a  platform  for  me  in  one  of  the  trees  by  the  well ;  but, 
as  the  moon  did  not  rise  till  about  9  P.M.,  we  were  obliged  to 
take  other  precautions.  To  prevent  the  tiger  from  dragging 
the  carcass,  we  secured  it  with  strong  ropes,  and  near  the 
hind  quarter,  at  which  part  a  tiger  always  commences  to  feed, 
I  set  my  large  iron  panther-trap,  carefully  covered  with  earth 
and  grass.  I  did  not  expect  that  it  could  long  detain  the 
tiger ;  but  I  hoped  it  would  do  so  sufficiently  to  allow  me 
to  put  in  a  couple  of  shots  by  the  light  of  a  large  grass  torch, 
which,  with  some  lucifers,  was  kept  in  readiness  by  one  of 
my  men  who  watched  with  me. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         307 

This  night-work  always  had  a  kind  of  charm  for  me, 
though  I  seldom  brought  anything  to  bag. 

I  liked  to  hear  the  cries  of  the  night-birds,  varied  now  and 
then  by  the  peculiar  chattering  of  hysenas,  or  the  distant 
growl  of  a  tiger,  while  the  panther  would  indicate  his  vicinity 
by  a  series  of  short  grunts,  whence,  from  the  similarity  of 
the  sound  to  the  rending  of  wood,  he  was  known  among  us  as 
"  the  sawyer." 

I  was  in  my  place  at  sunset,  but,  owing  to  some  wedding 
festival  in  the  village  close  by,  an  incessant  tom-tomiug  and 
drumming  was  kept  up  till  midnight,  when  I  fell  asleep, 
having  seen  nothing.  Towards  morning  I  heard  some  beast 
tearing  at  the  carcass,  and  looking  over,  I  saw  what  I  sup- 
posed to  be  a  panther ;  but  the  moon  was  obscured  by 
clouds,  and  objects  were  indistinct.  At  length  I  fired,  the 
beast  rushed  off,  and  we  heard  him  struggling  among  some 
high  poppies.  At  daybreak  we  descended,  and,  as  I  had 
feared,  found  the  track  of  a  hysena,  which  we  followed  to  the 
spot  where  he  lay  dead.  As  a  rule,  I  think  animals  of  the 
dog  tribe  tear  their  food,  while  cats  cut  it  more  noiselessly 
with  their  side  teeth.  This  hysena  evidently  had  resided  in 
some  iron-pit,  and  the  ore  had  changed  the  usual  dirty-white 
of  his  coat  to  a  deep  yellow. 

That  afternoon  a  three-parts-grown  tiger  was  marked  by 
my  men  near  the  spot  where  I  had  shot  the  tigress  two  days 
before.  Only  one  small  tree  stood  in  the  sea  of  thorny  scrub, 
and  in  it  I  found  an  insecure  footing  at  a  few  feet  from 
the  ground.  As  usual,  my  men  arranged  the  beat  admirably, 
and  this  tiger's  jacket  was  pegged  out  that  night  by  the  side 
of  those  of  his  relatives.  We  had  good  reason  to  congratu- 
late ourselves  on  the  death  of  these  two  last  tigers,  for  the 
country  was  close  and  extensive,  and  the  amount  of  ground 


308  WILD   MEN   AND  WILD   BEASTS. 

which  my  rifle  could  cover  was  very  limited.  But  the  arrange- 
ments of  Dhokul  and  his  men  were,  as  usual,  excellent. 
From  Baug  I  moved  north  towards  Sirdarpore,  and  encamped 
below  the  hills,  near  the  village  of  Tanda.  Here  my  usual 
good  fortune  took  a  turn,  and  I  lost  one  of  my  gun-bearers  by 
a  sad  accident. 

About  10  A.M.  Dhokul  came  in,  having  left  some  of  his 
men  on  sentry  over  a  very  large  tiger,  which  he  had  come 
upon  suddenly  that  morning.  I  was  not  long  in  turning  out, 
and,  on  arriving  near  the  spot,  we  arranged  the  plan  of  attack. 
I  was  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  MacTier,  who  had  joined 
me  that  morning  from  Sirdarpore. 

The  only  tree  which  we  could  find  in  any  way  suited  as  a 
position,  was  one  standing  near  the  head  of  a  slope  some  fifty 
yards  in  length.  This  tree  had,  at  about  eight  feet  from  the 
ground,  strong  shoots  growing  from  the  stem.  On  these  I 
took  my  stand,  accompanied  by  my  gun-bearer,  named 
Foorsut.  At  the  foot  of  the  slope  a  dry  nullah  crossed  from 
left  to  right,  and  beyond  it  was  a  level  jungle  thinly  covered 
with  trees  and  bushes.  The  tiger  was  to  be  driven  from  our 
left  down  the  nullah.  Having  seen  me  to  my  place,  Dhokul 
went  off  to  bring  on  the  beat,  and  soon  after  the  tiger  came 
trotting  down  on  the  far  side  of  the  nullah.  Unfortunately, 
my  shot  struck  him  too  far  back,  and,  turning  sharp  to  the  left, 
he  went  off  at  a  great  pace,  while  I  fired  my  remaining  three 
shots  at  random  in  the  hope  of  doing  further  damage.  Seeing 
the"  tiger  go  off,  I  did  not  at  once  reload,  intending  to  do  so 
when  I  descended  to  follow  him  up  on  the  elephant.  Sud- 
denly, a  man  on  a  tree  cried  out  that  the  tiger  was  coming 
back,  and,  on  looking  up,  I  saw  him  coming  towards  us  at  a 
sharp  trot.  On  reaching  the  nullah,  he  crossed  it,  and  slowly 
ascending  the  hill,  stood  immediately  below  our  tree.  With 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         309 

a  breech-loading  rifle  I  might  have  shot  him  ten  times  over, 
and  possibly,  as  he  was  coming  on,  I  might  have  reloaded  that 
which  I  had,  but  I  knew  that  any  movement  on  our  part  would 
probably  make  him  charge,  and  we  were  too  near  the  ground 
to  make  such  a  contingency  desirable. 

All  might  have  yet  gone  well  had  the  man  kept  quiet.  In 
an  evil  moment  he  spoke,  saying  that  the  tiger  was  below  us, 
The  beast  looked  up,  caught  sight  of  us,  and  at  once  sprang 
up  the  tree.  Getting  a  momentary  hold  for  his  claws  on  the 
trunk,  he  seized  Foorsut  by  the  waistband  with  his  teeth  and 
dragged  him  down,  and  as  he  fell,  bit  him  three  times  through 
the  back  of  the  thigh,  inflicting  twelve  deep  wounds.  I 
shouted  loudly,  and  hurled  my  hunting-cap  at  the  tiger,  on 
which  he  slunk  off  and  went  down  the  hill.  Presently  the 
men  came  up,  and  we  made  a  litter  of  boughs  and  sent  the 
wounded  man  off  to  the  camp,  where  he  was  attended  to  by 
the  native  apothecary  who  always  accompanied  my  office.  I 
mounted  the  elephant  along  with  Mr.  MacTier,  and  we  pre- 
sently came  on  the  tiger,  at  which  I  fired,  and  on  going  up 
found  him  dead.  I  believe  he  had  died  from  the  first  shot. 
He  was  a  full-grown  male,  very  large  and  heavy. 

The  wounded  man  progressed  favourably,  and  the  bone  of 
the  leg  seemed  uninjured.  He  was  doing  well  on  the  follow- 
ing day  ;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  second  we  observed  a 
slight  twitching  of  the  points  of  the  fingers.  Towards  3  P.M. 
he  fell  off  suddenly,  and  by  4  he  was  dead.  This  was  a  sad 
termination  to  what  had  been  a  brief  but  successful  "chasse" — 
my  bag,  during  the  trip,  consisting  of  seven  tigers,  a  panther, 
and  a  bear. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Meet  at  Muudlaisir— Three  Tigers  at  Burnea— One  shot— Panther  killed 
—Bees  at  Zerbar— Wild  Pig— Tiger  shot— Tigress  and  Cubs  at  Buluk- 
warra — Three  Bears  murdered — Tigers  at  Nulwye — One  shot — A  Cowardly 
Mahout — Tigress  shot— Panther  at  Kirnowee— The  Mahout  chastised-g 
Big  Tiger  at  Oochawud — Bear  and  Cub — Three  Bears  shot — Tiger  Cubs — 
Hyaena  caught— r- Panther  shot — Alligators  at  Dinner — Tigress  shot  at 
Bowtee— Tigers  in  three  places — Three  shot— Camp  at  Morkutta — Three 
more — The  Hum  Pahl — Bear  shot — Precautions  against  Thieves — Two 
Bears  shot — Camp  at  Hutnee  River — Two  Tigers  slain — Measurements 
of  Tigers— White  Ants— Divide  the  Spoils— Cadell  departs— Elephant 
in  Quicksand — Three  Tigers  poisoned — Tiger  shot — Bear  and  Cubs — 
Bear  wounded — Three  Tigers  shot — Man  mauled  by  Tigress — Return  to 
Sirdarpore. 

ABOUT  the  31st  of  March  1864,  our  party  met  at  Mundlaisir 
for  a  long-projected  shooting  excursion.  We  were  four  guns, 
viz.  Captain  John  Evans,  alias  "  The  Bashi,"  6th  Inniskilling 
Dragoons  ;  Captain  Murray,  72d  Highlanders ;  Captain  T. 
Cadell,  V.C. ;  and  myself.  Previous  to  this  the  country  south 
of  the  Nerbudda  had  been  explored  by  Cadell's  men,  while 
mine  had  devoted  their  attention  to  the  district  north  of  the 
river.  By  this  means  we  had  learnt  the  position  of  a  number 
of  beasts,  and  were  thus  enabled  to  march  from  point  to  point 
without  loss  of  time.  At  Mundlaisir  we  met  Mr.  Nils 
Mitander,  a  Swedish  gentleman,  who  had  come  out  to  India  to 
superintend  the  erection  of  an  iron-smelting  establishment  in 
Mmar.  The  afternoon  was  spent  in  some  final  preparations, 
and  in  the  evening  we  took  a  boat  and  pushed  out  into  the 
middle  of  the  clear  stream,  where  we  had  a  delightful  swim. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         311 

Early  next  morning  we  were  on  the  march  towards  a  river 
which  flows  into  the  Nerbudda  from  the  south,  about  ten  miles 
above  Mundlaisir.  Here,  at  a  village  named  Burnea,  three 
tigers  had  been  marked  down  in  a  large  patch  of  cypress  in 
the  bed  of  the  river,  which  lay  in  a  country  much  cut  up  by 
ravines,  and  covered  by  thorny  bushes  of  the  mimosa.  They 
were  very  shy,  and  at  once  broke  away  into  the  ravines.  We  fol- 
lowed, and  after  a  long  hunt,  succeeded  in  finding  one,  a  small 
beast,  7  feet  8  inches  in  length,  which  was  shot  by  Murray. 
We  hunted  the  ground  very  carefully  on  the  following  day,  but 
saw  nothing,  and  in  the  afternoon  moved  east  to  Kamkhera. 

On  the  way  we  beat  a  dry  nullah  filled  with  long  grass, 
and  were  fortunate  in  starting  a  fine  panther  which  had  killed 
a  pony  two  days  before.  I  had  a  snap-shot  at  him,  but  missed, 
and  he  broke  away  through  a  thick  thorny  jungle  to  the  left. 
Here  the  Bashi  caught  sight  of  him,  and  put  a  ball  through 
his  body,  but  he  made  off,  and  it  was  only  after  a  long  search 
on  the  elephants,  that  I  observed  the  white  tuft  at  the  end  of 
his  tail  protruding  from  a  mass  of  high  grass.  Calculating 
where  his  shoulder  should  be,  I  fired,  killing  him  dead.  He 
was  a  handsome  beast,  7  feet  8  inches  in  length,  with  a  finely- 
marked  skin. 

We  moved  still  farther  to  the  east,  and  encamped  at 
Zerbar,  where,  some  of  our  people  having  lit  a  fire  below  trees 
containing  bees,  we  were  greatly  annoyed.  The  bees  came 
down  in  great  numbers,  and  dispersed  the  whole  camp,  sting- 
ing many  men  and  animals.  Our  grooms  fled  with  their 
horses  to  the  jungle,  while  we  sheltered  ourselves  behind  the 
bamboo  screens  of  the  tents.  The  bees  appeared  to  entertain 
special  antipathy  to  certain  goats  and  bullocks,  and  these 
they  persecuted  without  mercy,  following  them  most  pertina- 
ciously as  they  rushed  for  protection  among  their  fellow  beasts, 


312  WILD  MEN  AND   WILD   BEASTS. 

who  escaped  comparatively  scatheless.  In  the  evening  I 
went  out  with  Bashi  for  a  walk,  and  in  a  ravine  about  two 
miles  from  the  camp  we  came  on  a  sounder  of  wild  pigs. 
Bashi  dropped  one  with  a  fine  shot,  and  we  carried  him 
towards  the  camp  slung  on  a  pole.  Darkness  came  on,  and 
we  found  ourselves  struggling  through  rocks  and  thorns  with 
our  burden.  At  length  we  saw  the  camp-fires  in  the  valley 
below  us,  and  having  shouted  and  fired  a  shot,  we  were  soon 
joined  by  our  men,  who  relieved  us  of  our  porcine  load. 

Next  morning  we  went  after  a  tiger  which  had  slain  one 
of  our  buffaloes.  He  broke  back  through  the  beaters,  and 
was  shot  by  a  half-caste  of  inebriated  habits  who  had  come 
from  Mhow,  having  attached  himself  to  Captain  Evans's 
stables.  The  tiger  was  a  stout  male,  9  feet  10  inches  in 
length.  The  two  following  days  were  blank,  and  we  moved 
our  camp  west  to  Bulukwarra. 

Evans  and  Cadell  had  been  obliged  to  return  to  their 
cantonments  on  some  duty,  but  they  rejoined  us  at  this  place 
in  time  to  see  a  tigress  brought  in  by  Murray  and  me.  We 
heard  of  her  from  one  of  the  local  police,  who  volunteered,  for 
a  consideration,  to  be  our  guide.  Under  his  leadership  we 
went  out  on  elephants,  and  beat  an  open  tree-jungle,  having 
an  undergowth  of  bushes  and  dry  grass.  The  tigress  was 
started  by  Murray  out  of  a  small  dry  nullah.  His  elephant 
was  unsteady,  and  he  missed.  The  tigress  then  crossed  my 
front,  and  I  was  fortunate  in  dropping  her.  She  was  up 
again  in  an  instant,  and  came  on,  but  was  turned,  and  took 
shelter  in  some  broken  ground,  from  which,  with  Murray's 
assistance,  she  was  dislodged  and  slain.  On  going  back  to 
the  spot  from  which  she  had  started  we  found  her  two  cubs 
lying  asleep  on  the  gravel,  in  the  bottom  of  the  nullah.  These 
we  brought  home  alive.  From  this  camp  we  hunted  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         313 

Boorar  river,  down  as  far  as  Teekree,  on  the  Mhow  and  Bombay 
road ;  but  though  we  passed  some  splendid  coverts,  and  saw 
footprints  in  one  or  two  places,  we  found  nothing.  Cholera 
was  very  prevalent  at  that  time  on  the  high  road  ;  we  there- 
fore crossed  without  halting,  and  encamped  in  the  jungle  a 
few  miles  farther  on  towards  the  Nerbudda. 

Still  we  could  find  no  game,  so  we  moved  westward  into 
the  Burwanee  country.  On  the  way  one  of  our  men  observed 
three  bears  as  they  entered  some  long  grass  on  the  side  of  a 
small  ridge,  in  a  bit  of  open  jungle.  Having  seen  them 
settled  for  the  day,  he  sent  us  word,  and  on  examination  of 
the  ground  we  found  that  the  whole  family  might  be  easily 
disposed  of.  We  advanced  on  them  along  the  ridge,  moving 
very  quietly  in  single  file,  each  man  having  his  gun-bearer, 
with  a  second  rifle,  on  his  left.  On  coming  abreast  of  the 
bears  all  turned  to  the  right,  and  as  we  reached  the  edge  the 
three  unfortunate  beasts  jumped  out  of  the  grass  about  ten 
yards  below  us.  "We  made  very  short  work  of  them,  and,  as 
our  rifles  cracked,  they  all  fell  in  a  heap  together.  We  then 
marched  to  Nulwye,  a  small  village  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Deb  river  with  the  Nerbudda,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
Maun  river,  where  I  had  made  so  good  a  bag  with  Ward  the 
year  before.  On  the  way  Bashi  and  I  rode  down  a  young 
gazelle,  and  captured  it  alive. 

On  arriving  at  Nulwye,  we  found  that  our  men  had  two 
tigers  marked  on  an  island  in  the  bed  of  the  Deb,  which  at 
this  season  was  nearly  dry.  It  was  settled  that  Bashi  and  I 
should  beat  down  the  island  on  the  elephants,  while  Cadell 
and  Murray  took  posts  in  trees.  We  had  hardly  entered  the 
covert  when  the  tigress  appeared  before  Evans.  As  he  raised 
his  rifle,  the  elephant,  checked  by  a  nervous  mahout,  backed 
suddenly.  Evans  was  thrown  off  his  aim  and  missed,  but  the 


314  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

tigress,  crossing  over  to  me,  was  dropped  with  one  shot.  We 
left  her  lying,  and  proceeded  to  beat  out  the  covert.  Pre- 
sently the  tiger  jumped  up,  also  before  the  Bashi.  Again  the 
elephant  backed,  and  again  he  missed.  The  tiger  plunged 
into  a  mass  of  creeping  plants,  and  then,  turning  to  the  right, 
entered  a  small  ravine,  and  left  the  river.  Cadell  and  Murray 
now  joined  us,  and  after  searching  for  some  time  we  again 
saw  the  tiger  making  off.  Murray  fired  with  an  explosive 
shell,  which  burst  close  behind  him,  and  he  got  away,  and  was 
lost  among  the  ravines.  This  tiger  escaped  entirely  through 
the  misconduct  of  the  mahout,  and  on  our  return  to  camp  he 
was  sent  for  and  admonished.  He  was  informed  that  any 
future  exhibition  of  cowardice  would  be  met  by  instant 
chastisement.  The  elephant,  which  had  been  lent  by  the 
Rajah  of  Jhabbooa,  I  knew  to  be  good  and  staunch.  The 
tigress  which  we  had  bagged  was  9  feet  1  inch  in  length. 

On  the  following  morning  a  buffalo  was  found  killed  in 
the  cypress  near  the  mouth  of  the  Maun  river.  We  forded 
the  Nerbudda  on  the  elephants,  and,  after  posting  men  to  look 
out  from  trees,  we  entered  the  covert.  After  hunting  for  some 
time  we  came  on  the  tigress,  which  we  shot  without  much 
trouble.  She  was  9  feet  in  length,  and  on  opening  her  we 
found  four  cubs,  which  would  have  been  born  within  a  day 
or  two.  We  removed  their  skins,  which  were  very  prettily 
marked.  We  halted  another  day  at  Nulwye,  but  finding  no 
more  game,  we  sent  off  our  camp  to  Oochawud,  some  miles 
higher  up  the  Deb  river. 

We  hunted  in  the  bed  of  a  smaller  river  on  the  way,  and 
started  a  panther  near  a  village  named  Kirnowe.  The  Jhab- 
booa mahout  again  misbehaved,  causing  Cadell,  who  was  on 
the  elephant,  to  miss  his  shot.  He  was  at  once  visited  with 
the  promised  chastisement,  and  his  mind  and  body  were  so 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         315 

much  hurt  that  he  bolted  on  our  arrival  in  camp.  We  were 
well  rid  of  him,  and  the  grasscutter,  being  there  and  then  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  mahout,  proved  a  most  efficient  substi- 
tute. The  panther  attempted  to  break  up  the  bank  of  the 
river,  but  was  turned  by  my  men,  and  retreated  into  some 
close  jungle  of  mimosa.  On  our  advancing  on  him  he  charged 
viciously,  and  gave  some  trouble  before  he  was  killed.  He 
was  7  feet  10  inches  in  length.  Crossing  over  some  hills  on 
our  way  to  the  tents,  we  saw  a  gigantic  bear,  but  he  was  far 
beyond  rifle-range. 

While  seated  at  breakfast  on  the  following  morning, 
intelligence  came  in  from  two  of  our  parties  of  markers. 
One  man  reported  a  bear,  the  other  a  large  tiger,  which 
was  supposed  to  be  the  same  which  had  escaped  at  Nulwye. 
The  latter,  of  course,  commanded  our  immediate  atten- 
tion. He  was  lying  in  a  fringe  of  thick  bushes  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  but  as  his  exact  position  was  unknown,  we 
had  some  difficulty  in  fixing  on  the  plan  of  attack.  We  ex- 
pected him  to  break  away  to  the  left,  where  the  country  was 
covered  with  grass  and  bushes.  Here  and  there  were  a  few 
trees,  and  it  was  decided  that  Cadell  and  Murray  should  mount 
two  of  these,  while  Evans  and  I  advanced  on  elephants  from 
either  flank  along  the  bed  of  the  river.  As  I  proceeded  to  my 
position  a  panther  rose  at  the  elephant's  feet,  but  I  did  not 
fire.  As  soon  as  the  men  in  the  trees  were  in  position,  we 
advanced,  and  the  tiger,  which  probably  had  a  lively  recollec- 
tion of  his  previous  persecution,  left  the  bed  of  the  river  un- 
perceived  by  either  Evans  or  myself.  He  took  the  line  which 
we  expected,  but,  being  turned  by  a  shot  from  the  trees,  came 
back  towards  me,  and,  roaring  savagely,  threw  himself  into  a 
dense  thicket.  As  I  advanced  on  him  he  went  off,  and  lay 
up  in  a  thin  fringe  of  willows  in  the  bed  of  the  river. 


316  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Evans  then  took  Cadell  on  his  elephant,  while  Murray  joined 
me. 

Between  our  elephant  and  the  tiger  was  a  space  of  about 
100  yards,  covered  with  long  green  grass  and  large  boulders. 
No  sooner  did  the  tiger  see  us  advance  towards  him,  than  he 
charged  from  a  distance  of  at  least  eighty  yards,  roaring  as  he 
came  on.  Our  mahout  behaved  very  well,  but  the  elephant, 
which  was  greatly  excited,  shook  his  head  and  swayed  his 
body  so  much  that  accurate  shooting  was  impossible.  We  each 
fired  both  barrels,  but  the  tiger  came  on,  and  I  fully  expected  to 
see  him  on  the  elephant's  head.  The  latter,  however,  wheeled 
round  suddenly,  knocking  Murray  and  me  together  in  the 
howdah  in  a  most  undignified  manner.  Fortunately  the  tiger 
contented  himself  with  a  demonstration,  and,  catching  up  my 
second  rifle,  I  shot  him  behind  the  shoulder  as  he  went  by. 
He  dashed  on  for  thirty  yards,  when,  reaching  the  edge  of  the 
covert,  he  turned  sharp  and  crouched  for  another  charge.  The 
end  of  his  tail  was  twitching  ominously,  when,  the  mahout 
having  somewhat  steadied  the  elephant,  Murray  rolled  him 
over  with  a  shell,  and  another  shot  finished  him.  The  Bashi 
and  Cadell,  who  had  witnessed  the  charge,  now  came  up,  and 
indulged  in  many  pleasant  jokes  at  our  expense,  imitating 
what  they  called  our  double-wobble  style  of  taking  aim.  The 
tiger  was  a  fine  heavy  beast  9  feet  10  inches  in  length. 
On  removing  his  skin  we  came  on  a  small  wound  evidently 
two  days  old,  and  from  it  we  extracted  a  fragment  of  the  shell 
which  Murray  had  fired  at  Nulwye,  and  were  thereby  assured 
of  the  identity  of  the  tiger. 

Eeturning  to  the  tents,  we  had  some  luncheon,  and  then 
went  off  after  the  bear  which  had  been  marked  in  the  early 
morning.  She  was  lying  in  an  intricate  network  of  small 
tortuous  nullahs,  having  steep  clay  banks,  and  we  had  some 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         317 

trouble  in  finding  her.  At  length  we  caught  sight  of  her,  and 
she  was  instantly  slain.  She  was  accompanied  by  a  cub,  and, 
springing  down,  we  hemmed  it  into  a  corner  and  captured  it 
alive.  We  took  it  home  to  the  camp,  where  it  was  fastened 
by  a  dog-chain  to  a  peg  before  the  tent.  About  midnight  I 
was  awoke  by  Murray  calling  out  that  the  bear  was  loose, 
and  on  jumping  up  I  saw  it  making  off  to  the  jungle.  Shout- 
ing to  the  servants  to  loose  the  dogs,  we  gave  chase.  A  soft 
haze  hung  over  the  forest,  but  the  moon  being  bright,  we 
were  able  to  keep  the  bear  in  view.  My  trusty  Batchelor 
shot  by  me,  and  in  another  moment  was  hanging  on  the  ear 
of  the  bear,  which  shrieked  in  a  fiendish  manner.  •  We  carried 
him  back  to  the  tents,  where  he  was  properly  secured.  Our 
night-dresses,  consisting  of  flannel  shirts  and  wide  cotton 
drawers,  were  much  damaged  by  the  thorny  bushes. 

Next  morning  two  bears  were  marked  down  on  the  side 
of  a  hill  about  two  miles  from  our  camp.  They  lay  among 
a  mass  of  broken  rocks  near  the  summit,  which  was  flat 
and  thinly  wooded.  We  had  ascended  the  hill,  and  were 
within  fifty  yards  of  the  spot  from  which  we  intended  to 
fire,  when  a  gun  was  accidentally  discharged.  Knowing 
that  the  bears  would  be  alarmed,  we  rushed  forward,  and 
saw  them  going  down  the  hill  at  a  headlong  pace.  Many 
shots  were  fired,  and  all,  I  believe,  missed.  Fortunately  some 
of  our  men  were  below,  and,  seeing  them,  the  bears  turned 
along  the  face  to  the  right.  We  reloaded,  and,  running  till 
we  nearly  dropped,  crossed  over  the  table-land  and  posted 
ourselves  along  the  crest.  Eventually  we  bagged  not  only  these 
two  bears,  but  also  a  third,  which  was  driven  up  by  the  men. 
I  believe  each  of  my  companions  got  one  :  none  came  to  me. 

We  then  moved  farther  west  into  the  Burwanee  jungles, 
bordering  on  the  Sathpoora  hills,  and  encamped  under  a  huge 


318  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

banian-tree   far   from   human    habitations.      Here  we  were 

joined  by  Messrs.  B and  W ,  two  gentlemen  employed 

on  the  Geological  Survey,  who  were  exploring  these  hills. 
Next  morning  we  hunted  in  the  bed  of  a  dry  nullah  a  few 
miles  south  of  our  camp.  A  tigress  with  cubs  was  said  to  be 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  as  we  beat  up  some  long  green 
grass  one  of  the  elephants  halted  and  commenced  to  strike 
the  ground  with  his  trunk,  while  he  kicked  about  the  gravel 
with  his  fore-feet.  Presently  two  cubs  ran  snarling  out  of 
the  grass,  but  as  we  hoped  to  find  the  tigress  we  did  not  fire. 
She  was  cautious,  however,  and  had  gone  off  into  the  exten- 
sive jungle  by  which  we  were  surrounded  on  all  sides.  We 
searched  for  her  on  this  and  the  following  day,  but  without 
success,  so  we  shot  the  cubs,  and  marched  north  to  Dhunora, 
where  there  were  some  large  patches  of  cypress  in  the  broad 
bed  of  a  river.  On  arriving  at  the  ground  about  sunset,  we 
found  a  buffalo  had  been  killed  by  a  panther.  So,  deeming  it 
a  good  opportunity  for  setting  the  iron  trap,  we  laid  it  in  the 
sand  by  the  carcass.  After  dinner  we  went  out  with  a  lantern, 
and  on  going  to  the  spot  found  the  trap  sprung  and  a  few  hairs 
from  the  belly  of  the  panther  between  the  teeth.  We  set  the 
trap  again,  and  found  a  hysena  in  it  in  the  morning. 

We  then  beat  out  the  cypress,  and  started  the  panther, 
which  I  wounded  slightly,  but  he  went  off  down  the  bed  of 
the  river.  Our  men  tracked  him  for  about  two  miles,  and  we 
at  length  came  up  with  him.  He  had  taken  shelter  under 
the  prickly  leaves  of  some  young  date-trees,  and  made  some 
very  pertinacious  charges  before  he  was  finally  disposed  of. 
Farther  down  we  came  on  the  prints  of  a  very  large  tiger, 
which  we  followed  in  vain  for  several  miles.  Next  day  we 
marched,  and  encamped  at  Burwanee. 

In  the   afternoon  the   Bashi  and  I  went   down  to  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  319 

Nerbudda  to  shoot  alligators.  We  obtained  a  boat,  and  while 
punting  across  the  stream,  a  large  crocodile  came  to  the 
surface  about  twenty  yards  from  us.  I  fired  with  a  two-ounce 
rifle,  striking  him  fair  on  the  head,  but  he  sank,  and  we  could 
not  recover  him.  We  then  hunted  about  the  still  water 
among  the  rocks,  and  presently  saw  several  alligators 
swimming  about  in  a  quiet  pool.  A  dark  object  appeared  on 
the  surface,  and  was  immediately  fired  into  by  Bashi.  On 
going  forward  we  found  it  was  the  dead  body  of  a  woman, 
which  had  probably  been  cast  into  the  sacred  stream  by  her 
sorrowing  relatives  ;  for,  like  the  Ganges,  though  in  a  lesser 
degree,  the  Nerbudda  is  an  object  of  great  veneration  among 
Hindoos.  We  were  much  shocked,  and  left  the  alligators  to 
finish  their  meal  undisturbed. 

One  of  our  horsemen  was  sent  in  next  morning  from 
Bhowtee,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Goee  river,  five  miles  to  the 
westward.  He  reported  a  tigress  to  be  lying  in  the  bed  of 
the  river,  where  she  had  retired  after  feasting  on  one  of  our 
buffaloes.  She  got  away  without  a  shot,  but  was  fortunately 
headed  by  some  of  our  men,  and  returned  to  the  covert.  As 
we  moved  towards  her  she  charged  viciously  from  a  distance 
of  more  than  seventy  yards,  but  the  ground  was  tolerably 
clear,  and  our  elephants  being  steady,  she  did  not  get  home. 
Though  very  plucky,  she  was  a  small  beast,  only  8  feet  4 
inches  in  length.  Suspecting  that  we  should  find  more  tigers 
in  this  country,  we  moved  our  camp  westward  to  the  junction 
of  the  Goee  with  the  Nerbudda,  and  sent  parties  of  men  to 
scour  the  country  in  several  directions.  In  the  evening  I 
went  out  with  Evans,  and  we  got  a  nice  buck  chinkara.  On 
a  sandbank  by  the  Nerbudda  we  saw  a  large  flock  of 
pelicans. 

Intelligence  came  next  morning  from  three  different  parties. 


320  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Two  miles  up  theGoee  two  small  tigers  had  been  seen ;  the  track 
of  a  large  tiger  had  been  followed  up  to  a  mass  of  cypress  in 
the  Nerbudda  ;  while  a  buffalo  had  been  killed  at  Morkutta, 
four  miles  down  the  river.  We  started  soon  after  breakfast, 
having  given  orders  for  the  camp  to  be  moved  to  Morkutta. 
We  commenced  with  the  large  tiger  in  the  cypress,  and  having 
forded  the  river  on  the  elephants,  we  drew  lots  for  places. 
Murray  and  I  were  stationed  in  trees  on  a  high  bank  over- 
looking the  covert,  while  Cadell,  the  Bashi,  and  the  geologists, 
went  in  on  elephants.  The  covert  was  very  dense,  filled  with 
water-holes,  rocks,  and  deep  gullies  cut  by  the  action  of  heavy 
floods.  The  men  on  the  elephants  had  all  the  fun  to  them- 
selves, and  we  had  to  content  ourselves  with  listening  to  the 
reports  of  their  rifles,  varied  now  and  then  by  the  roars  of  the 
charging  tiger,  who  gave  some  trouble  before  he  died.  He 
was  a  short  beast,  being  only  9  feet  2  inches  in  length,  but 
very  stout  and  heavy. 

Having  still  much  work  before  us,  we  lost  no  time,  and  at 
once  recrossing  the  Nerbudda  we  proceeded  to  beat  up  the 
tigers  in  the  Goee.  They  were  lying  in  some  ravines  near  an 
old  ruined  fort  in  the  jungle,  and  on  being  started,  passed 

near  Mr.   B ,  who  dropped  them  both.     Though   only 

young  beasts,  6  feet  3  inches  in  length,  they  were  very 
savage,  and  one  of  them  clawed  an  elephant  severely  on  the 
trunk.  The  day  was  far  advanced,  so  we  at  once  pushed  on 
for  Morkutta,  where  we  knew  the  markers  were  anxiously 
awaiting  our  arrival.  But  when  we  arrived  on  the  ground, 
the  sun  was  low  in  the  heavens,  and  we  feared  that  night 
would  overtake  us  before  we  had  accomplished  our  work.  A 
consultation  was  therefore  held,  and  we  agreed  to  rest  content 
with  our  day's  sport.  We  accordingly  adjourned  to  the  tent, 
sending  men  to  tie  up  another  buffalo  for  the  tigers,  and  on 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        321 

their  return  they  reported  that  they  had  hardly  left  the  spot 
before  the  unhappy  beast  was  slain.  This  was  very  satis- 
factory, as  we  knew  the  tigers  would  gorge  themselves  and  lie 
up  in  the  cypress. 

Our  men  were  out  early  next  morning,  and  having  care- 
fully examined  the  bank,  assured  us,  on  their  return,  that  the 
tigers  had  not  left  the  river.  About  10  A.M.  we  went  out  to 
the  covert,  which  was  within  half-a-mile  of  our  camp.  An 
open  bed  of  gravel  extended  for  forty  yards  from  the  foot  of 
the  high  sloping  bank,  and  between  this  and  the  water  was 
a  strip  of  cypress,  ten  yards  in  width.  At  the  lower  end, 
towards  our  camp,  the  covert  became  wider  and  contained 
some  high  willow-trees.  Murray  and  Evans  were  posted  in 
these  trees ;  I  was  on  another  on  the  side  of  the  high  bank 
overlooking  the  cypress  ;  while  Cadell  and  the  geologists 
entered  the  upper  end  of  the  strip  on  elephants,  and  imme- 
diately started  the  tigers.  They  were  three  in  number,  one 
gentleman  and  two  ladies.  Several  shots  were  fired  by  the 
party  on  the  elephants,  and  one  tigress  was  there  and  then 
killed.  The  other  two  came  rushing  down  the  strip,  giving 
me  a  fine  view  of  them  as  they  went  by.  But,  though 
wounded,  they  did  not  fall  to  my  shots.  Passing  down  the 
covert,  they  were  fired  on  and  turned  back  by  Evans  and 
Murray.  The  elephants  were  now  closing  in  on  them  ;  again 
I  fired  from  my  tree,  and  they  were  met  by  a  sharp  fire  from 
Cadell  and  his  party.  Presently  all  three  lay  dead,  and  were 
soon  on  their  way  to  the  tents,  where  we  spent  the  afternoon 

in  preparing  the  skins.     Here  we  parted  with  Messrs.  B 

and  W ,  who  went  off  to  explore  the  hills. 

At  a  short  distance  below  our  camp  was  the  "  Hum  Pahl," 
or  "  Deer's  Leap,"  at  which  point  the  province  of  Nimar  ter- 
minates, and  the  ranges  of  the  Vindyah  and  Sathpoora  moun- 

Y 


322  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

tains  are  merely  divided  by  the  river.  The  name  of  the 
"  Hum  Pahl"  is  derived  from  the  circumstance  of  the  river 
being  here  obstructed  by  large  masses  of  basalt,  rising  about 
ten  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  stream,  and  giving 
passage  to  the  river  through  three  very  narrow  channels, 
across  each  of  which,  it  is  supposed,  an  antelope  could  bound. 
Below  this  point  for  several  miles  the  river  is  fringed  with 
dense  masses  of  cypress,  in  which  we  had  hoped  to  find  tigers, 
but  our  men,  after  a  careful  search,  could  find  no  fresh  tracks. 
We  therefore  forded  the  river,  and  encamped  on  the  opposite 
bank  at  Dhurrumrai.  At  this  period  the  south-west  monsoon 
was  blowing  up  through  the  gorge  with  great  force,  and  we 
were  much  annoyed  by  the  fine  alluvial  dust  in  which  we 
were  enveloped  night  and  day. 

To  the  westward  of  our  camp  lay  a  very  rugged  ravine, 
the  sides  of  which  had  been  rent  asunder  by  some  grand 
natural  convulsion.  The  rocks  were  divided  by  fearsome 
chasms  such  as  would  delight  the  heart  of  Gustave  Dore. 
Into  this  ravine  a  patriarchal  bear  was  marked  by  our  men, 
and,  after  some  trouble,  he  was  dislodged  from  his  cavern  and 
shot  by  Cadell.  Finding  no  more  game  here,  we  moved  west 
and  pitched  our  tents  at  Dhie. 

Owing  to  the  intense  heat  we  always  dined  in  the  open 
air,  and  as  bed-time  approached  our  beds  were  carried  out 
by  the  servants,  and  we  slept  with  our  four  cots  ranged  round 
the  dinner-table.  Among  the  Bheels  in  the  hills  I  had  no 
fear  of  nocturnal  thieves,  but  Murray,  who  had  derived  his 
ideas  of  native  honesty  from  the  civilised  inhabitants  of  the 
plains,  always  took  especial  care  to  secure  his  guns  at  night. 
For  this  purpose  an  iron  chain  was  passed  through  the  trigger- 
guards,  and  the  guns  were  thus  attached  to  a  large  arm-chair 
beside  him.  One  morning  about  daybreak  I  saw  the  Bashi 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         323 

steal  from  his  bed,  and  quietly  unscrewing  one  of  the  trigger- 
guards,  release  a  rifle,  which  he  hid  under  his  mattress. 
Murray,  on  waking,  looked  as  usual  at  his  guns,  and, 
finding  one  missing,  raised  a  great  outcry.  We  kept  up 
the  joke  till  breakfast-time,  when  his  weapon  was  restored 
to  him. 

A  Bheel  now  came  in,  having  left  some  of  his  friends  on 
sentry  over  two  bears  in  the  hills  about  five  miles  to  the 
southward.  The  heat  was  very  great,  but  on  being  told  that 
by  making  a  circuit  we  could  reach  the  place  by  a  footpath, 
we  mounted  our  horses  and  went  off,  having  ordered  the  camp 
to  be  moved  westward  to  the  Hutnee  river.  Our  guide  led  us 
a  dance  of  at  least  ten  miles  through  a  very  strong  country, 
and  our  men  suffered  greatly  from  the  want  of  water.  The 
bears  lay  on  a  hill-side  covered  with  long  dry  grass  and 
huge  stones,  and  we  had  some  difficulty  in  fixing  on  positions 
for  the  guns.  The  beat,  however,  was  successful,  and  both 
bears  were  slain.  They  were  fine  large  beasts,  and  as  we  had 
no  means  of  transport,  we  prepared  to  skin  them  on  the  spot. 
In  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  was  a  single  green  tree,  and, 
anxious  to  avail  ourselves  of  its  shade,  we  carried  the  bears 
to  the  edge  of  the  hill,  and  sent  them  rolling  down  into  the 
nullah.  For  our  own  consumption  we  carried  water  in 
leathern  bottles,  but  our  men  were  obliged  to  go  off  to  a 
water-hole  two  miles  distant,  where  they  slaked  their  thirst, 
while  we  busied  ourselves  in  skinning  the  bears.  It  was  late 
before  we  reached  our  camp,  where  we  were  comforted  by  a 
bath  and  change  of  raiment. 

Two  miles  higher  up  the  Hutnee  is  joined  by  the  Sankree 
Tokree  ravine,  and  here  one  of  our  buffaloes  was  killed  in 
the  night  by  a  tiger.  The  tracks  led  to  a  mass  of  rough 
grass  and  bushes  in  the  bed  of  the  Hutnee,  and  we  beat 


324  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

this  place  out  very  closely  with  the  elephants,  but  found 
nothing.  We  then  took  positions  in  trees,  and  sent  men  to 
drive  down  the  ravine.  They  started  a  big  tiger,  which 
went  up  the  side,  steering  clear  of  our  posts.  Expecting  that 
he  would  have  crossed  over  the  intervening  jungle,  and  gone 
down  into  the  cover  which  we  had  first  beaten,  we  went  back, 
and  having  placed  Evans  and  Cadell  on  trees,  I  was  proceed- 
ing with  Murray  to  beat  up  the  covert  towards  them,  when 
my  elephant  became  greatly  excited,  and  commenced  kicking 
violently  at  the  grass  with  her  fore-foot.  At  that  instant  a 
tigress  rushed  out,  but  the  elephant  was  so  unsteady  that  I 
missed  her  with  both  barrels.  Catching  up  my  second  rifle, 
I  was  more  successful,  and  dropped  her  with  a  shell  behind 
the  shoulder.  Another  shot  finished  her. 

While  this  little  bit  of  by-play  was  going  on,  the  big 
tiger  which  we  had  previously  started,  and  which  had  ap- 
parently been  travelling  leisurely,  was  seen  by  Evans's  gun- 
bearer  to  steal  down  into  the  bed  of  the  river,  where  he 
entered  a  long  strip  of  cypress  on  the  far  side.  Wishing  to 
cross  this  strip  so  as  to  get  quietly  down  between  him  and 
the  jungle,  Murray,  Cadell,  and  I,  moved  over  on  the  ele- 
phants. But  the  tiger,  which  had  been  creeping  towards  us 
under  cover  of  the  cypress,  rose  suddenly  with  loud  roars,  and 
as  he  sprang  on  some  masses  of  rock,  I  at  one  time  feared 
he  would  leap  into  the  howdah.  We  instantly  poured  in  a 
volley  with  good  effect,  and,  falling  back,  he  went  off  down 
the  covert.  We  had  just  reloaded,  when  he  emerged  eighty 
yards  lower  down,  and  was  passing  over  some  bare  ground  on 
his  way  to  the  jungle  above,  when  we  again  fired,  and  he  fell 
over  in  the  open,  where  he  lay  roaring.  As  we  made  up  to 
him,  he  rose  and  scrambled  back  to  the  cypress,  whence  he  made 
one  gallant  charge  before  he  died.  We  returned  home  well 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          325 

pleased  with  our  day's  work.  The  tiger  measured  9  feet  4 
inches,  and  the  tigress  8  feet  7  inches. 

In  this  chapter  I  have  given  the  measurements  of  beasts 
from  a  memo,  lately  received  from  Cad  ell,  who  took  them 
down  at  the  time.  Many  men  have  talked  to  me  of  tigers 
twelve  and  eleven  feet  long,  and  in  some  countries  they  may 
attain  that  size,  but,  speaking  from  my  own  experience,  I  can 
only  say  I  have  not  fallen  in  with  them  in  Malwa  or  Mmar. 
I  have  seen  tigers  nearly  ten  feet  long,  whose  skins  could 
easily  have  been  stretched,  when  fresh,  to  eleven  or  more  feet, 
but  the  breadth  would  have  been  greatly  diminished  and  the 
beauty  of  the  skin  impaired. 

On  taking  up  the  bear-skins  which  we  had  got  on  our  way 
from  Dhie,  we  found  that  they  had  been  completely  destroyed 
by  white  ants.  These  horrible  little  animals  had  been  busy, 
and  the  hair  was  eaten  off  in  large  patches.  We  found  that 
the  only  safeguard  to  protect  skins  when  pegged  out  was  to 
cause  a  man  to  beat  them  night  and  day  every  half-hour  with 
a  cane.  White  ants,  when  at  work,  cover  the  object  to  be 
eaten  with  an  incrustation  of  mud,  underneath  which  they 
carry  on  their  operations.  They  will  not  work  when  disturbed, 
and  the  concussion  of  the  blows  from  the  cane  is  enough  to 
keep  them  away. 

Here,  much  to  our  regret,  we  parted  from  Cadell,  who  was 
obliged  to  proceed  into  the  Sathpoora  hills  on  duty.  Before 
he  left  we  divided  the  spoils  by  lot.  Having  picked  out  the 
four  best  skins,  we  tossed  for  choice,  and  so  on  till  all  were 
divided.  After  which  exchanges  were  effected,  by  private 
bargain,  for  such  as  were  supposed  to  have  any  particular  in- 
terest attached  to  them.  Passing  down  to  the  Nerbudda  by 
the  bed  of  the  Hutnee  river,  CadelTs  elephant  got  into  a 
quicksand,  and  was  extricated  with  some  difficulty.  On  such 


326  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

occasions,  trees,  boughs,  and  bundles  of  grass  and  brushwood 
are  thrown  to  the  sagacious  animals,  which  they  force  down 
with  their  tusks  and  trample  them  into  the  sand. 

The  Bashi,  Murray,  and  I,  moved  north,  via  Dhie,  towards 
the  Mogra  ravine,  which  we  reached  in  two  marches.  On 
riding  into  the  camp  we  were  met  by  Dhokul,  who  came  for- 
ward with  a  look  of  deep  dejection  stamped  on  his  expressive 
countenance.  He  informed  us  that  a  cow  having  been  killed 
by  a  tiger  a  few  days  previously,  the  exasperated  owner  had 
poisoned  the  carcass.  A  tigress  and  two  half-grown  cubs 
returned  to  feaSfc,  and  there  and  then  died.  The  Bheels  had 
hung  the  three  bodies  on  a  tree  close  by,  where  we  found 
them  emitting  a  noisome  effluvium.  These  were  the  tigers 
whose  tracks  I  had  seen  on  my  last  visit  to  the  ravine,  when, 
in  firing  the  jungle,  I  had  nearly  burnt  down  my  tent.  We 
were  vexed  on  finding  them  poisoned,  but  could  not  blame 
the  poor  Bheels,  who  were  only  protecting  their  cattle.  The 
father  of  the  family  was  still  to  be  accounted  for,  and  he, 
having  yielded  to  the  temptation  of  one  of  our  buffaloes 
during  the  night,  was  marked  down  in  the  morning  by  our 
men,  aided  by  a  Mekranee  named  Morad. 

We  posted  ourselves  in  trees  across  the  ravine,  and  our 
men,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  the  local  Bheels,  went  off 
to  drive  down  towards  us.  The  Mekranee  was  on  the  left, 
and  from  my  tree  I  could  see  the  tiger  passing  up  towards 
him.  He  fired,  as  did  also  Evans,  and  the  tiger,  badly 
wounded,  rushed  growling  into  the  bottom  of  the  ravine 
immediately  below  my  post.  I  sat  very  quiet,  and  presently 
saw  his  huge  head  and  neck  protrude  from  some  green 
willows.  I  had  a  pot-shot  at  him,  and  dropped  him  dead. 
This  tiger,  when  first  started,  had  charged  back  among  the 
beaters.  One  man  was  cut  by  his  claw  on  the  shoulder,  but 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        327 

his  evil  passions  not  being  then  roused,  he  came  forward 
without  doing  further  mischief. 

We  then  moved  our  camp  to  Baug,  where  we  pitched  the 
tents  under  a  large  banian-tree  opposite  the  fort.  In  the 
evening,  while  sitting  outside  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  a  pipe, 
we  saw  two  panthers  on  the  wall  of  the  old  fort,  on  which 
they  had  mounted  by  a  breach  leading  into  the  jungle. 
Taking  rifles,  we  went  forward,  but  by  the  time  we  had  arrived 
within  range  the  panthers  had  disappeared.  From  this  camp 
we  visited  the  cave  where,  with  Blowers,  I  had  shot  the  tiger 
two  years  before.  Much  of  the  surrounding  jungle  had 
been  cleared  away,  but  the  bones  of  the  tiger  still  lay  in  the 
cave,  and  one  or  two  were  taken  away  as  souvenirs.  A  bear 
and  cubs  were  marked  down  below  the  Bhoodist  caves,  and 
were  all  slain  without  much  trouble  ;  but  during  my  visit  in 
February  I  had  apparently  exterminated  the  race  of  tigers,  for 
my  men  could  neither  see  nor  hear  of  any.  At  Tanda,  near 
the  foot  of  the  Ghauts,  a  large  bear  was  seen  to  enter  a  rocky 
ravine,  but  as  we  attempted  to  approach  the  spot  it  became 
alarmed  and  went  off.  Shots  were  fired,  but  without  effect. 
Up  to  this  date  we  had  bagged  every  bear,  tiger,  and  panther, 
at  which  we  had  fired  since  leaving  Mundlaisir.  Much  of 
the  credit  was  no  doubt  due  to  our  shikarees,  but  our  good 
fortune  had  been  very  great.  Personally,  I  had  received  great 
assistance  from  my  gun-bearers,  of  whom  Futtah,  a  Serjeant  in 
the  Bheel  Corps,  was  invaluable.  Futtah  was  a  Bheel  of  the 
Vindyah  range,  quiet  and  unobtrusive,  but  possessed  of  great 
intelligence  both  on  parade  and  in  the  jungle.  He  was,  more- 
over, an  excellent  shot,  and  very  steady  and  plucky  on  an 
emergency. 

Another  march  carried  us  into  my  house  at  Sirdarpore, 
where  we  rested  for  a  couple  of  days,  during  which  time  men 


328  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

were  sent  out  to  examine  the  grass-jungle  near  Jucnaoda. 
They  reported  a  tigress  and  two  half-grown  cubs,  and  having 
posted  ourselves  in  trees,  they  were  sent  forward  by  the 
beaters,  and  the  two  cubs  shot.  The  tigress  crossed  a  bit  of 
open  ground  clear  of  the  guns,  and  got  away  among  some 
small  ravines.  We  mounted  the  elephants  and  gave  chase, 
having  been  joined  by  Jowan  Sing,  the  son  of  the  Thakoor  or 
Chief  of  Jucnaoda.  Failing  to  find  the  tigress,  Murray  and 
Evans  went  forward  and  mounted  in  trees,  while  the  Thakoor 
and  I  beat  up  the  jungle  towards  them.  As  I  pressed  my 
elephant  into  some  long  reeds  the  tigress  bolted  out  to  the 
left.  I  had  a  snap-shot  at  her  as  she  went  over  a  ridge,  and 
disabled  her  hind  leg,  but  she  went  on  and  disappeared  into 
the  next  nullah.  Halting  in  the  bed  of  the  main  stream,  I 
sent  the  Thakoor  to  beat  down  on  his  elephant.  As  he  came 
forward,  the  ground  became  so  rough  that  the  elephant  could 
not  advance,  and  to  my  horror  I  saw  him  directing  the  beaters 
to  go  on  and  hurl  stones  into  the  nullah.  In  vain  I  shouted  ; 
my  voice  was  drowned  in  the  din  of  tom-toms,  and  in  another 
moment  I  saw  the  tigress  charge  up  the  bank  towards  the 
men,  who  turned  and  fled.  Deprived  of  the  use  of  one  hind- 
leg,  her  ascent  was  greatly  retarded,  but  she  struck  down  the 
last  man  and  bit  him  behind  the  thigh.  At  that  moment  the 
Thakoor  fired,  wounding  her  mortally,  and  she  scrambled  back 
into  the  nullah,  where  she  died.  Fortunately  the  man  was  not 
very  badly  injured,  though  he  had  some  severe  flesh-wounds. 
We  sent  him  off  at  once  into  the  regimental  hospital,  where 
he  was  skilfully  attended  by  our  doctor,  who  set  him  on  his 
legs  again.  By  this  time  the  rainy  season  had  nearly  set  in, 
and  my  friends  returned  to  Mhow,  having  greatly  enjoyed 
their  excursion,  which  had  extended  over  nearly  two  months. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Predatory  Habits  of  the  Bheels— the  International  Court— Mode  of  Procedure— 
Naikras  of  the  Punch  Mahal — Camp  at  Powaghur — Peculiar  form  of  Oath 
—A  Cobra— Three  Dogs  killed— Move  to  Ruttun  Mall— The  Route- 
Green  Pigeons  and  Jungle-Fowl — Stag  shot — Major  Bonnor  breaks  out  in 
Poetry — Move  to  Dohud — Three  Bears  shot — Tame  Tiger — Their  fondness 
for  Water  — Murrel — Return  to  Sirdarpore — Cheetah  shot  —  Gazelles — 
Business  combined  with  Pleasure — An  Amiable  Tigress. 

THE  country  to  the  north-west  of  my  charge  was  occupied  by 
a  wild  and  turbulent  race  of  Bheels,  who  resided  in  the  strong 
jungles  in  the  northern  parts  of  Jhabbooa  and  the  adjoining 
British  district  of  the  Punch  Mahal,  lately  ceded  by  Scindiah. 
To  the  north  of  these  lay  the  petty  chiefship  of  Banswarra, 
and  the  Bheels  of  the  three  countries  had  long  been  engaged 
in  raids  either  on  their  neighbours  or  on  the  more  peaceable 
inhabitants  under  their  own  chiefs.  Rightly  or  wrongly,  it  is 
the  custom  of  the  country  to  ascribe  all  such  acts  of  violence 
to  external  foes,  and  on  the  occurrence  of  any  foray  or  case 
of  cattle-lifting  in  Jhabbooa,  the  chief  invariably  reported  the 
matter  to  me,  praying  for  redress.  His  communication  passed 
from  my  office  to  that  of  the  British  officer  in  charge  of  the 
Punch  Mahal,  or  the  officer  in  political  charge  of  Banswarra, 
by  whom  it  was  generally  returned  with  an  intimation  that 
the  persons  charged  were  not  only  brave,  but  also  virtuous, 
and  at  the  precise  period  of  the  alleged  inroad  were  actively 
engaged  in  the  peaceful  operations  of  husbandry.  This  reply 
was  forwarded  to  the  complainant,  and  the  matter  Bested  there 


330  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

till  some  of  his  people  having  effected  a  raid  over  the  border 
on  their  own  account,  similar  communications  would  pass  with 
the  same  unsatisfactory  result. 

In  many  of  their  manners  and  customs  the  Bheels  greatly 
resemble  the  old  Scottish  Highlanders.  They  are  very 
clannish,  and  have  great  respect  for  the  chiefs  of  their  tribes, 
while  the  patience  and  pertinacity  with  which  they  avenge 
plunder  or  bloodshed,  and  the  zest  with  which  they  enter  on 
any  predatory  expedition,  would  have  done  credit  to  the  most 
accomplished  reivers  and  caterans  of  our  own  land.  But  it 
was  necessary  that  the  benign  influence  of  the  Paramount 
Power  should  be  felt  in  these  wild  countries,  and,  to  this  end, 
international  courts  were  held  on  the  frontier,  when  all  dis- 
putes were  examined  into  and  settled  by  the  British  politicals. 
The  peculiarity  of  the  procedure  consisted  in  the  Bheels 
themselves  being  constituted  judges  and  arbiters  in  the  various 
cases.  Some  time  previous  to  the  assembling  of  the  court, 
lists  of  claims  on  both  sides  were  exchanged  through  the 
British  officers,  and  on  the  date  of  meeting  being  fixed  all 
parties  were  duly  warned  to  attend.  All  were  directed  to 
come  unarmed,  and  all  came  under  safe  conduct,  being  assured 
that  they  would  be  safe  from  arrest  for  any  imputed  crimes. 
On  the  assembling  of  the  court,  previous  to  calling  on  the 
first  case,  a  scale  of  compensation  was  mutually  agreed  upon. 
Buffaloes  about  fifteen  rupees,  oxen  twelve,  cows  eight,  and 
sheep  and  goats  one  or  two  rupees.  The  life  of  a  man  was 
fixed  at  one  hundred  and  twenty  rupees,  while — tell  it  not  in 
Gath — that  of  a  woman  was  only  valued  at  sixty.  Wounds 
were  assessed  according  to  their  gravity. 

I  met  Colonel  Buckle  on  one  of  these  courts  at  Dohud, 
fifty  miles  west  of  Sirdarpore.  Our  object  was  the  settlement 
of  the  claims  against  our  respective  districts.  The  agents  of 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         331 

the  various  native  states  attended,  and  the  Bheels  assembled 
to  the  number  of  about  seven  hundred.  The  first  case  being 
called  on,  the  plaintiff  and  defendant  came  forward.  They 
were  told  to  name  two  men  each,  as  arbiters,  from  the  Bheels 
assembled.  These  four  were  then  directed  to  hear  what  both 
parties  had  to  say,  and,  in  the  event  of  their  finding  for  the 
plaintiff,  to  ascertain  the  amount  of  his  loss.  To  ensure  free- 
dom from  interference  by  other  parties,  a  constable  was  told 
off  to  remain  by  them,  and  they  then  moved  off.  The 
arbiters  were  authorised  to  call  up  from  the  Bheels  who  were 
present  any  witnesses  they  might  require.  The  next  and 
subsequent  cases  were  disposed  of  in  the  same  manner. 
From  time  to  time  the  arbiters  came  up  and  made  known 
their  decisions,  which  were  then  and  there  entered  on  the 
general  sheet.  The  great  advantage  of  this  course  of  pro- 
cedure was,  that  in  nearly  every  case  the  arbiters  were  fully 
acquainted  with  all  the  particulars  of  the  matter  under  inves- 
tigation. The  feeling  of  honour  among  thieves  was  strong,  and 
it  was  heightened  by  the  certainty  that  an  unjust  award  would 
inevitably  be  followed  by  active  reprisals  on  the  property  of 
the  judges  themselves  by  the  injured  plaintiff  or  defendant. 

These  courts  were  always  attended  by  the  most  beneficial 
results,  and  for  some  time  after  they  were  held,  life  and 
property,  on  both  sides  of  the  frontier,  were  comparatively 
secure.  By  no  other  course  could  restitution  be  fairly  accom- 
plished, as  plundered  cattle  and  other  property  were>  on 
being  swept  over  the  frontier,  at  once  divided  among  the 
plunderers,  by  whom  they  were  speedily  sent  off  to  a  dis- 
tance to  their  friends.  Before  the  court  broke  up,  a  debit 
and  credit  account  was  made  out  for  each  chief  whose 
Bheels  were  concerned.  Those  who  had  to  pay  to  other 
states  were  called  on  to  pay  the  money  into  court  at  once. 


332  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

Lists  of  the  decisions  were  given  to  all,  and  the  settlement  of 
the  awards  and  penalties  within  their  own  districts  was  left 
to  the  chiefs  themselves. 

The  heavy  jungles  in  the  country  lying  between  Allee 
Eajpore  and  Guzerat  were  occupied  by  an  aboriginal  race 
called  Naikras.  Partaking  of  many  of  the  Bheel  character- 
istics, they  are  more  wild  and  uncivilised.  The  unhealthy 
nature  of  these  malarious  forests  is  evident  from  the  wretched 
appearance  of  the  Naikras,  whose  sole  clothing,  among  the 
male  population,  often  consists  in  a  cord  round  the  waist, 
under  which  a  narrow  strip  of  cloth  is  passed.  The  hair  is 
worn  long  and  uncontrolled,  and  lies  on  the  head  in  a  thick 
and  filthy  mat,  tanned  by  the  sun  to  a  russet  brown.  They 
are  armed  with  the  universal  bow  and  arrows,  swords,  and  a 
few  matchlocks. 

Some  disturbance  being  anticipated  among  these  wild  men, 
Colonel  Buckle  moved  his  camp  to  the  jungles  near  the  moun- 
tain of  Powaghur,  and  as  a  party  of  the  Guzerat  Bheel  Corps, 
under  Major  Bonnor,  was  to  join  him  from  Dohud,  the  latter 
officer  invited  me  to  co-operate  by  joining  their  camp.  I 
accordingly  moved  across  the  frontier,  taking  with  me  my 
usual  escort  of  a  serjeant  and  twelve  troopers  of  the  Central 
India  Horse,  and  twenty-five  men  of  the  Malwa  Bheel  Corps. 
We  spent  some  days  encamped  in  these  jungles,  and,  during 
our  stay,  the  Naikras  who  had  threatened  to  give  trouble 
came  in  and  were  promised  a  settlement  of  their  grievances, 
on  which  they  swore  upon  drawn  swords,  and  imitation  foot- 
prints of  tigers,  that  they  would  abstain  from  disturbing  the 
peace  of  the  country.  The  above  form  of  oath  was  meant  to 
imply  that  they  hoped  they  might  fall  by  the  sword,  or  be 
eaten  by  tigers,  if  they  broke  their  promises  there  and  then 
solemnly  made. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         333 

We  had  gone  out  one  morning  to  shoot  partridges  and 
jungle-fowl  near  the  camp,  and  were  accompanied  by  a  num- 
ber of  dogs  of  various  kinds.  Passing  through  some  bushes, 
I  heard  a  terrier  barking  angrily,  and,  rushing  in,  I  found  her 
facing  a  large  cobra  da  capello,  which  was  coiled  with  head 
erect  and  hood  extended,  by  the  side  of  a  rat  which  it  had 
just  killed.  Hearing  the  terrier  bark,  the  other  dogs  ran  in 
from  all  sides,  and  in  another  moment  the  whole  were  worry- 
ing the  deadly  reptile.  Catching  up  a  stick,  I  beat  off  the 
dogs,  and  then  shot  the  snake.  The  dogs  seemed  none  the 
worse,  but  I  was  certain  that  some  of  them  must  have  been 
bitten.  About  twenty  minutes  afterwards  we  returned  to  the 
tent,  where  a  dog  was  presently  seized  with  convulsions,  and 
fell  apparently  in  great  agony.  His  mouth  and  tongue  be- 
came perfectly  black  from  the  virulence  of  the  poison,  and  he 
was  put  out  of  his  misery  by  a  pistol-shot.  Another  dog  was 
similarly  struck  down.  By  this  time  we  had  got  out  some 
spirits  of  ammonia,  which  we  administered,  but  without  effect, 
and  this  dog  also  died.  A  third  was  then  attacked,  but  it 
had  probably  been  bitten  last,  and  the  poison  of  the  snake 
being  partially  exhausted,  we  managed  to  keep  the  dog  alive 
till  sunset,  when  it  died.  We  were  much  grieved  by  the 
death  of  our  faithful  companions. 

Leaving  Colonel  Buckle  at  this  camp,  Major  Bonnor  re- 
turned with  me  towards  the  Euttun  Mall  Hill,  a  fine  wooded 
mountain  in  the  south-west  corner  of  my  district.  On  the 
way  we  passed  through  a  very  wild  and  heavily-timbered 
country.  The  valley  along  which  we  marched  was  flat  and 
sandy,  but  in  many  parts  our  line  of  route  was  flanked  by 
hills  formed  of  huge  detached  boulders  of  gray  granite,  piled 
over  each  other  to  the  height  of  200  feet ;  they  had  ap- 
parently been  left  by  glaciers.  On  either  side  of  the  narrow 


334  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

path  was  jungle-grass  ten  feet  in  height.  The  Naikras  in  tin's 
country  were  very  troublesome  in  185*7-58  ;  and  the  closeness 
of  the  jungle  having  greatly  impeded  the  operations  of  the 
troops  sent  against  them,  several  clearings  of  100  yards  in 
breadth  and  many  miles  in  length  have  been  made  along 
the  principal  tracks.  As  the  district  is  now  entirely  under 
British  rule,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  these  and  other  bene- 
ficial measures  may  tend  to  civilise  these  wild  men. 

On  this  march  we  shot  many  green  wood -pigeons  and 
jungle -fowl.  Both,  when  cooked,  were  excellent,  and  the 
feathers  of  the  latter  have  since  been  in  great  request  by 
ladies  for  their  hats,  and  by  salmon-fishers  for  their  flies. 
We  halted  two  days  at  the  Euttun  Mall  Hill,  spending  our 
time  in  its  wooded  glades  in  quest  of  sambur.  I  had 
wounded  and  lost  a  fat  hind,  and  was  posted  in  a  bit  of 
very  close  covert  by  the  Bheels  of  the  hill,  who  had  assembled 
under  their  chief  to  do  us  honour  by  driving  the  jungle. 
A  stag  passed  at  full  speed  about  fifty  yards  to  my  right, 
crashing,  as  he  went,  through  the  thick  underwood.  I  fired, 
but  without  much  hope  ;  and,  at  the  end  of  the  beat,  was 
preparing  to  go  on,  when  it  struck  me  that  I  might  as  well 
examine  the  ground  over  which  the  stag  had  passed.  On  a 
close  inspection  of  the  dead  leaves,  I  found  a  few  hairs  which 
had  been  cut  by  my  bullet,  farther  on  a  speck  of  blood,  then 
larger  quantities,  and  a  hundred  yards  farther  the  stag  him- 
self, lying  shot  nearly  through  the  heart.  He  was  skinned 
and  cut  up  on  the  spot,  after  which  a  bottle  of  Moselle  was 
produced  from  the  depths  of  the  capacious  basket  in  which 
Bonnor  invariably  carried  his  refreshments  when  shooting. 
On  descending  the  hill  that  officer  detailed  the  events  of  the 
day  in  some  spirited  verses  of  heroic  metre,  but  I  regret,  for 
the  sake  of  my  readers,  that  I  cannot  here  furnish  them  with 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         335 

a  copy.  On  the  following  day  we  saw  several  sambur,  in- 
cluding one  very  fine  stag,  but  the  only  shot  which  we  got  was 
at  a  hind,  which  I  missed  in  a  disreputable  manner. 

We  then  moved  north  towards  Dohud,  where  we  spent  a 
day  or  two  in  quest  of  bears.  Two  were  found  in  a  ravine  a 
few  miles  from  the  cantonment,  and  were  both  slain.  We 
were  taken  up  to  another  brace,  which  we  ought  also  to  have 
bagged,  but  one  of  these,  though  wounded,  escaped.  The 
other  fell  dead,  and  my  companion  loudly  vaunted  the 
marvellous  effects  of  his  rifle-shell.  I  said  little,  but  as  we 
were  a  long  way  from  camp  we  directed  the  men  to  skin 
the  bear  as  he  lay.  One  bullet-hole  only  was  found,  and 
under  the  skin  on  the  far  side  lay  my  two-ounce  conical. 

Major  Bonnor  had  at  Dohud  a  tame  tiger,  which  was 
allowed  to  wander  about  the  house  till  his  size  rendered  him 
formidable.  He  was  very  playful  and  good-natured,  except 
at  feeding-time.  His  favourite  pastime  was  to  go  down  with 
us  to  the  lake,  where  he  would  swim  out  with  the  dogs, 
enjoying  his  bath  intensely.  The  lake  was  full  of  large  fish 
of  the  rnurrel  species,  many  of  which  were  shot  by  the  men 
of  the  corps,  who  sat  in  trees  overlooking  the  water,  and 
killed  them  as  they  rose  to  bask  on  the  surface  in  the  mid- 
day sun. 

Some  time  after  my  return  to  Sirdarpore,  a  man  of  the 
Bheel  Corps,  who  was  out  with  Futtah  in  search  of  antelopes, 
came  and  informed  me  that  they  had  seen  two  tigers  in  some 
grass  lands  a  few  miles  east  of  the  cantonment.  I  was  very 
incredulous,  as  the  place  was  not  one  in  which  tigers  were 
likely  to  be,  though  I  knew  that  the  spot  was  occasionally 
frequented  by  panthers.  I  went  out,  however,  with  Blowers, 
and  having  taken  up  positions  in  trees,  sent  beaters  round  to 
drive  towards  us.  Presently  two  hunting  cheetahs  came 


336  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

over  the  hill,  and  crossed  the  river  at  some  distance  from 
Blowers,  who  fired  without  effect.  They  then  went  off  over 
an  open  country,  cultivated  here  and  there  with  crops  of 
millet.  My  men  pursued  them  on  foot  for  several  miles, 
keeping  them  in  view,  and  eventually  turning  them  back 
towards  the  river,  where  they  lay  up  in  some  high  grain.  As 
the  men  advanced,  several  jackals  broke  away,  but  just  as 
they  reached  the  end  of  the  field,  the  cheetahs  bounded  out. 
I  fired,  and  wounded  one  ;  however,  they  went  on,  and  passing 
through  some  tall  hemp,  swam  over  a  deep  pool  in  the  river, 
and  went  across  the  grass  lands.  Here  they  were  headed  by 
a  party  of  my  men.  The  wounded  beast,  being  unable  to 
keep  up  with  his  companion,  halted,  and,  creeping  up  to  a 
small  tuft  of  grass,  lay  down.  We  went  up  to  him,  and  as 
he  lay  ready  for  a  charge,  I  fired  and  turned  him  over.  The 
cheetah,  from  his  great  length  of  limb,  stands  very  high,  and 
an  imperfect  view  of  him  in  the  jungle  will  often  lead  to  his 
being  mistaken  for  a  tiger. 

Chinkara  or  gazelles  were  found  on  the  hilly  ground  north 
of  the  cantonment,  and  I  frequently  went  after  them  with 
Futtah.  On  these  occasions  we  started  off  on  my  riding 
camel,  which  I  drove,  while  Futtah,  who  sat  behind  me, 
carried  my  rifle.  On  sighting  the  deer,  I  would  either  dis- 
mount and  stalk  them,  or  send  Futtah,  who  was  a  good 
marksman,  and,  like  all  his  race,  an  excellent  stalker,  to  take 
the  shot,  while  I,  moving  off  on  the  camel,  assisted  him  by 
attracting  the  attention  of  the  deer.  We  seldom  went  home 
empty-handed,  and  often  had  a  couple  of  bucks  slung  to  the 
saddle  on  our  return. 

After  the  rainy  season  the  plains  were  covered  with  grass 
three  feet  in  height,  and  here  we  found  florican  in  consider- 
able numbers.  But  the  extent  of  grass  was  very  great,  and 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.  337 

the  birds  could  only  be  started  by  having  a  number  of  beaters. 
I  therefore  exercised  my  men  occasionally  at  light  infantry 
drill  over  this  ground.  I  could  generally  muster  about  two 
hundred,  and  these  I  formed  in  a  single  rank,  and  extended 
them  by  bugle-sound  in  one  long  line  across  the  country.  I 
accompanied  them  on  horseback,  my  gun  being  carried  by 
one  of  my  men.  Buglers  marched  along  the  line,  and  on  a 
florican  rising  from  the  grass  they  would  sound  the  "  Halt," 
and  mark  the  spot  where  he  alighted.  I  then  rode  up,  and  on 
dismounting  to  shoot  sounded  the  "  Advance  "  or  "  Retire  "  as 
might  be  necessary  to  raise  the  birds.  When  required,  the 
line  changed  front  to  the  right  or  left  by  bugle-sound.  In 
this  manner  I  combined  business  with  pleasure,  halting  now 
and  then  by  the  bank  of  some  stream  to  allow  the  men  to 
smoke  and  otherwise  refresh  themselves. 

In  the  jungle  north  of  Sirdarpore  I  observed  a  singular 
instance  of  amiability  in  a  tigress.  We  had  been  after  her  for 
some  days,  but  she  had  always  managed  to  keep  out  of  our 
way.  Buffaloes  were  tied  up  for  her  in  several  directions  ;  and 
one  morning,  on  going  to  look  after  them,  we  found  that  the 
tigress  had  passed  within  a  yard  of  a  calf  without  injuring  it. 
The  track  was  plain,  leading  down  a  narrow  path  to  the  spot 
where  the  bait  was  tied  in  the  bed  of  a  stream,  and  the  foot- 
print of  the  tigress  was  distinctly  seen  over  that  of  the  buffalo, 
which  had  apparently  moved  on  one  side  to  allow  her  to 
pass. 


CHAPTEE  XXIV. 

Excursion  to  Rajpootana — Bradford's  Encounter  with  a  Tiger — Prompt  Prac- 
tice— A  "Wolf — The  Jowra  Gunsmith — I  meet  Hayward — Trout-fishing — 
Alligator  shot — A  runaway  Elephant  —  Native  Fishermen — Turtle — 
Bustard — General  Game — A  Tiger  shot — Camp  at  Mandul — Murrel-fishing 
— Shoogramghur — Pig-shooting — Return  toNeemuch  andSirdarpore — Hot 
Season  Expedition — Meet  Evans  and  Froom — Tiger  shot — Panther  shot — 
Move  to  Hum  Pahl — Tiger  killed — A  Facer — Panther  in  Mogra — Bear 
missed — Jeeree  Ravine — Two  Panthers  shot — Camp  at  Baug — Panther 
shot — Maun  River — Tigress  shot — A  Rifle  smashed — Panther  killed — Good 
shooting — Move  to  Munawur — Two  Panthers  slain — Man  wotmded — Camp 
at  Kotra — Nylghae— Cheerakan — Fossils — Move  to  Sooltanpoor — Death  of 
Tarrachund — Dutteegaum — Bear  wounded— End  of  the  Campaign — Con- 
cluding Remarks. 

FINDING  that  a  claim  to  three  months'  leave  had  accumulated, 
I  applied  for  permission  to  join  my  friend  Major  Hayward, 
who  was  then  employed  in  settling  boundary  questions  in 
Eajpootana.  Early  on  the  first  of  January  1865, 1  left  my  own 
camp,  which  was  pitched  at  Budnawur,  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  Dhar  territory,  and  riding  into  Eutlam  I  was  met  by 
Captain  Bradford,  the  political  officer  in  Western  Malwa,  with 
whom  I  spent  the  forenoon.  Since  our  last  meeting  he  had 
been  nearly  killed  by  a  tiger,  and  had  undergone  amputation 
of  an  arm.  While  out  shooting  with  a  party  from  Goona,  he 
was  seated  on  a  low  stump  when  he  was  charged  by  a  wounded 
tiger.  He  sprang  down  and  made  a  rush  backward,  hoping  to 
be  able  to  throw  himself  into  a  pool  of  water  close  by.  But 
tie  tripped  and  fell,  and  the  tiger,  seizing  him  by  the  arm, 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.        339 

crushed  the  bones  between  his  teeth.  With  wonderful 
presence  of  mind  and  fortitude  Bradford  lay  still,  and  the 
tiger  was  driven  off  and  shot  by  his  companions.  The 
nearest  medical  aid  was  at  Auggur,  sixty  miles  distant,  and 
thither  a  horseman  was  at  once  despatched.  Meanwhile,  a 
litter  having  been  made,  the  wounded  man  was  borne  in  the 
same  direction.  Dr.  Beaumont,  the  medical  officer  at  Auggur, 
was  fortunately  a  man  of  intelligence  and  decision.  Taking 
his  instruments  with  him,  he  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  off 
to  meet  his  friends,  with  whom  he  fell  in  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  cantonment.  The  heat  at  this  time  was  intense,  and 
observing  symptoms  of  mortification  setting  in,  Beaumont 
there  and  then  took  out  the  arm  from  the  shoulder-joint,  and 
saved  the  life  of  his  patient,  who  now  shoots,  rides,  and  plays 
cricket,  with  as  much  energy  as  ever. 

Soon  after  breakfast  we  heard  an  outcry,  and  running  out, 
saw  a  wolf  with  a  kid  in  his  mouth  crossing  the  plain  near 
the  tents.  On  being  pursued,  he  dropped  the  kid,  and  retiring 
a  couple  of  hundred  yards,  sat  down.  I  got  an  old  rifle  from 
one  of  the  servants  and  went  after  him,  but  it  had  apparently 
been  loaded  with  native  powder,  for  the  ball  dropped  at  fifty 
yards  from  the  muzzle.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode  on  twenty- 
four  miles  to  Jowra,  where  I  was  hospitably  entertained  by 
the  Nawaub.  He  showed  me  a  breech-loading  gun,  every 
part  of  which  had  been  made  from  an  English  pattern  by  one 
of  his  own  native  artificers.  The  finish  throughout  was  un- 
commonly good. 

Next  day  I  rode  to  Neemuch,  sixty  miles,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  joined  Hay  ward  at  his  camp,  about  ten  miles 
from  the  fortress  of  Chittore.  We  frequently  went  out  on 
fishing  excursions,  our  party  consisting  of  five,  including  two 
ladies.  We  caught  a  number  of  bright,  silvery  little  fish, 


340  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

somewhat  resembling  trout,  which  took  fly  and  minnow  very 
readily.  We  also  got  some  mahseer.  These  rose  fairly  in 
the  streams  to  a  small  salmon-fly,  but  they  were  more  fre- 
quently taken  by  a  lump  of  flour  paste,  to  which  cotton  wool 
was  added  to  give  consistency.  I  have  since  heard  that  these 
fish  will  frequently  take  a  hook  baited  with  the  "goolur"  or 
wild  fig. 

Observing  a  large  alligator  basking  on  a  sandbank  on  the 
far  side  of  the  river,  I  made  a  successful  stalk  and  shot  him 
dead.  He  was  nearly  twelve  feet  in  length,  and  desiring  to 
hold  a  post-mortem  examination  on  him,  we  proceeded  to 
bind  him  on  an  elephant.  The  sagacious  animal  had  not, 
however,  been  broken  in  to  alligators,  and  the  tail  of  the  huge 
reptile  having  been  allowed  to  dangle  against  his  side,  he 
swung  round  suddenly,  and  having  shaken  off  his  load,  fled 
with  the  mahout  in  the  wildest  terror.  Fortunately,  the 
country  was  open,  and  the  man  kept  his  seat.  He  returned 
late  in  the  afternoon,  affirming  that  the  elephant  had  only 
been  brought  into  subjection  after  a  dance  of  twelve  kos — 
Anglic^  twenty-four  miles  !  !  The  elephant  was  styled  from 
that  day  forward  the  "  Bara  kos  ke  bhagne  wallah,"  or  runner 
of  twelve  kos. 

One  morning  we  came  on  a  large  party  of  native  fishermen 
encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  Bunass  river.  Their  operations 
were  principally  conducted  at  night  with  large  casting-nets. 
On  arriving  at  the  fishing  ground  they  busied  themselves 
in  preparing  rafts  composed  of  masses  of  long  green  reeds. 
These  rafts  were  about  ten  feet  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth 
and  depth.  Each  was  calculated  to  support  one  man.  While 
fishing,  they  moved  in  two  files  about  twenty  yards  apart, 
while  two  rafts  closed  up  the  rear.  Each  man  had  a  large 
casting-net  lying  ready  coiled  at  his  feet.  He  propelled  his 


ADVENTUKES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         341 

raft  very  noiselessly  with  a  long  bamboo.  On  a  given  signal 
all  put  down  their  sticks,  and  with  much  dexterity  cast  their 
nets  simultaneously  into  the  space  between  the  rafts.  By 
this  means  large  numbers  of  fish  were  nightly  captured.  The 
smaller  ones  were  kept  alive  during  the  next  day  in  netted 
enclosures  sunk  under  water,  while  large  fish  were  attached  to 
the  bank  by  a  long  cord  fastened  round  the  tail.  At  sunset 
all  were  drawn  out  and  killed.  They  were  then  packed  on 
ponies,  and  sent  off  thirty  or  forty  miles  during  the  night  to 
the  cantonment  at  Neemuch. 

A  number  of  murrel  were  shot  by  our  own  men,  who  fired 
on  them  from  trees  and  overhanging  banks  as  they  basked  on 
the  surface.  While  fishing  for  mahseer  with  paste  we  were 
much  annoyed  by  river  turtle  of  great  size,  which  came  readily 
to  the  baits,  and  generally  broke  our  tackle.  I  succeeded  in 
bringing  one  of  these  to  the  top,  and  as  he  rose,  Futtah,  who 
was  seated  on  a  rock  above  me,  put  a  bullet  through  him  from 
my  rifle.  The  pool  was  deeply  tinged  with  blood,  but  the 
beast  sank,  and,  as  usual,  my  tackle  suffered. 

We  frequently  found  bustard  in  the  plains,  and  I  shot 
several  fine  specimens.  On  one  occasion  I  counted  nineteen 
together,  but  they  were  very  wary,  and  we  got  none  of  them. 
I  generally  found  that  they  could  be  approached  most  easily 
under  cover  of  a  horse  or  camel,  and  sometimes,  when  riding, 
they  would  allow  us  to  come  within  a  few  yards  before  taking 
flight.  As  we  moved  north  we  came  on  a  fine  antelope 
country,  and  many  good  bucks  were  brought  in.  Large  bags 
of  geese,  ducks,  and  snipe,  were  also  made.  One  morning, 
when  encamped  near  the  Bunass  river,  our  men  marked  down 
a  tiger,  and  we  went  out  after  him.  We  had  no  shooting 
howdah,  and  after  the  little  affair  with  the  alligator,  we  had 
no  confidence  in  our  elephant,  so  trusted  to  finding  trees  from 


342  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

which  to  shoot.  The  jungle,  which  consisted  of  thick  "kakra" 
and  thorny  "  bair "  bushes,  was  bounded  on  the  left  by  the 
deep  still  reach  of  a  river  running  down  at  a  right  angle  to 
the  Bunass,  which  was  not  far  distant.  The  natives  of  the 
place  assured  us  that  the  tiger,  when  started,  would  come 
down  the  bank  of  this  river,  and  insisted  on  our  mounting  on 
certain  trees  which  they  pointed  out.  But,  on  inquiry,  I 
found  that  the  covert  for  which  he  would  probably  make  lay 
considerably  to  the  right,  and  from  my  knowledge  of  the  habits 
of  the  animal  I  was  certain  he  would  take  the  direct  route, 
and  so  pass  far  out  of  shot.  I  therefore  insisted  on  posting  two 
intelligent  men  on  trees  in  this  direction,  with  instructions  to 
keep  a  sharp  look-out,  and,  should  the  tiger  come  towards 
them,  to  cough  and  tap  with  their  sticks  so  as  to  turn  him  on 
the  guns.  As  I  expected,  the  tiger  was  no  sooner  started  than 
I  saw  him  making  off  to  the  right,  but  the  men  worked  him 
very  well,  and  he  returned  to  the  bank  of  the  river,  where 
Hayward  slew  him  from  his  tree.  Being  shot  in  the  cold 
season,  his  skin  was  in  very  fine  order,  so  having  bound  him 
on  the  elephant,  we  sent  him  off  to  camp,  while  we  went 
down  to  the  Bunass,  where  we  spent  the  afternoon  in  trout- 
fishing.  Some  good  mahseer  were  brought  into  camp  by 
natives  who  had  shot  them  with  barbed  arrows,  to  which  fine 
lines  were  attached. 

After  this  we  marched  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  and 
encamped  at  Mandul.  Here  there  is  a  fine  artificial  lake, 
covering  many  hundred  acres,  formed  by  an  embankment 
sixty  yards  in  width  faced  with  cut  stone,  and  covered  with 
trees  of  large  growth,  under  which  we  pitched  our  tents.  The 
lake  was  alive  with  ducks,  geese,  and  water-fowl  of  all  kinds, 
and  we  saw  many  large  murrel  basking  in  the  sun.  Some  of 
these  we  shot,  but  they  sank  in  deep  water,  and  could  not  be 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         343 

recovered.  From  the  village  we  procured  a  number  of  lines 
thirty  yards  in  length.  To  each  of  these  we  attached  a  large 
hook  baited  with  a  frog,  and  tied  them  to  pegs  along  the  edge 
of  the  embankment.  During  our  stay  at  this  place  we  thus 
captured  about  a  hundred  good  fish.  The  northern  and 
western  sides  of  the  lake  were  fringed  with  tracts  of  high 
reeds,  which  we  beat  for  wild  pigs.  We  saw  several,  but  they 
all  escaped.  In  a  green  bank  I  came  upon  a  number  of  holes 
tenanted  by  a  large  colony  of  otters,  who,  judging  from  the 
number  of  fish  bones,  fins,  and  tails  lying  about,  had  prose- 
cuted a  very  successful  fishing. 

Marching  north,  we  encamped  at  Shoogramghur,  where 
the  chief  has  a  preserve  swarming  with  wild  pigs,  which  he 
was  in  the  habit  of  shooting  from  an  ambuscade,  his  men 
having  baited  the  place  with  grain  for  some  days  previous  to 
this  very  royal  sport !  Being  anxious  to  procure  a  few  pairs 
of  large  tusks,  we  obtained  leave  to  hunt  in  this  jungle.  The 
covert  consisted  almost  entirely  of  cactus  bushes,  in  which 
we  found  pigs  in  great  numbers,  but  the  heavy  boars  kept 
out  of  our  way,  and  we  only  shot  a  couple  of  small  pigs  for 
the  pot.  By  this  time  my  leave  was  drawing  to  a  close,  and 
from  this  camp  we  retraced  our  steps  to  Neemuch,  where  I 
parted  with  much  regret  from  my  friends.  Hayward,  I  am 
sorry  to  add,  has  since  died  of  fever.  We  joined  the  regiment 
at  the  same  time,  and  have  spent  many  pleasant  days  together. 
Two  days'  hard  riding  brought  me  back  to  my  own  house  at 
Sirdarpore.  On  my  way  I  slept  at  Jowra,  where  I  was  again 
the  guest  of  the  Nawaub,  who  shortly  after  died  of  cholera. 
He  was  one  of  the  most  intelligent  rulers  in  Malwa,  and  was 
much  regretted  by  all  who  knew  him. 

On  my  return  I  at  once  made  preparations  for  an  expedi- 
tion in  Nimar,  and  proceeded  to  Allee  Eajpore,  where  I  was 


344  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

joined  by  Evans  and  Froom  of  the  6th  Dragoons.  We  moved 
down  towards  the  Hutnee  river,  and  found  a  large  tiger  in 
the  Sankree  Tokree  ravine.  Profiting  by  our  former  experi- 
ence, I  placed  Froom  on  the  high  ground  between  the  ravine 
and  the  Hutnee.  On  being  started,  the  tiger  at  once  went  up 
the  side,  and  he  shot  him  dead.  I  was  posted  on  the  far  side 
of  the  ravine,  and  on  descending  into  the  bottom  was  nearly 
overpowered  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  whose  perpendicular 
rays,  untempered  by  the  faintest  breeze,  beat  down  upon  my 
head.  The  tiger,  which  was  a  full-grown  male,  had  fallen  in 
a  spot  whence  he  could  not  easily  be  lifted,  so  we  were  com- 
pelled to  skin  him  as  he  lay. 

We  then  moved  down  the  Hutnee  towards  the  Nerbudda, 
and  on  the  way  started  a  panther  out  of  a  patch  of  green 
reeds.  On. being  wounded  he  returned  to  the  covert,  and  was 
only  discovered  after  a  long  search,  when  he  was  found  dying 
under  an  overhanging  bank,  completely  hidden  by  the  long 
grass. 

We  hunted  a  large  extent  of  very  fine  covert  in  the  Ner- 
budda  without  finding  the  print  of  a  foot,  and  resolved  on 
moving  up  to  the  Hum  Pahl,  but  the  intervening  country 
being  quite  impassable,  we  were  compelled  to  go  round  by 
Dhie.  On  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  at  a  short  distance 
below  the  Hurn  Pahl,  one  of  our  buffaloes  was  killed,  and 
on  going  out  we  found  the  tiger  among  some  small  patches  of 
cypress  interspersed  with  pools  of  water.  We  moved  in  to 
the  attack  on  our  elephants,  and  this  tiger  was  also  shot  by 
Froom,  without  any  assistance  on  our  part.  This  was  his 
first  expedition  after  tigers,  and  we  were  obliged  to  speak 
seriously  to  him  regarding  the  prompt  manner  in  which  he 
disposed  of  our  hardly-found  game!  This  tiger  was  then 
bound  on  an  elephant,  and  I  prepared  to  mount  my  own,  on 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         345 

which  Evans  was  already  seated  in  the  howdah.  Elephants 
are  usually  mounted  by  small  ladders  hung  on  the  side  of  the 
pad,  but  as  these  are  apt  to  get  torn  off  by  bushes,  we  gener- 
ally mounted  by  the  crupper,  assisted  by  the  elephant,  who, 
on  a  hint  from  the  mahout,  lowered  his  quarters,  while  he 
stretched  out  his  hind-leg  for  us  to  step  upon.  Unfortunately, 
on  this  occasion,  the  forefeet  of  the  elephant  were  on  high 
ground,  and  as  he  lowered  his  hind-quarter  to  allow  me  to 
mount,  the  howdah  was  tilted  back  at  such  an  angle  as  to 
pitch  over  the  rifles  which  lay  on  the  seat.  The  Bashi 
managed  to  retain  two,  but  the  third,  an  extra  heavy  double 
rifle,  went  over,  and  falling  from  a  height  of  about  six  feet, 
struck  me  on  the  cheek  and  mouth,  nearly  driving  my  teeth 
down  my  throat.  I  suffered  greatly  at  the  time,  and  feel  the 
effects  of  the  blow  to  this  day. 

We  then  moved  north  to  the  Mogra  ravine,  where  the 
tigers  had  been  poisoned  last  year,  and  we  found  to  our 
regret  that  no  others  had  taken  their  place.  But  we  beat  the 
lower  part  of  the  ravine,  and  turned  out  a  panther,  which  was 
shot  by  Evans.  Higher  up  we  started  a  large  bear.  It  came 
out  to  Froom,  who,  possibly  remembering  our  admonition  re- 
garding the  tigers,  missed  it  very  creditably,  and  it  went  its 
way.  Crossing  over  the  hills  towards  the  Jeeree  ravine,  we 
hunted  some  fine  ground,  but  found  nothing,  and  we  then 
began  to  fear,  what  was  indeed  the  case — viz.,  that  we  had 
nearly  cleared  every  tiger  out  of  the  country. 

In  the  Jeeree  ravine,  however,  we  found  a  panther,  which 
passed  below  me  at  a  great  pace,  and  went  on  to  Evans,  who 
bowled  it  over  with  a  fine  shot.  Lower  down,  in  the  same 
nullah,  we  started  another  very  large  panther,  which  was  also 
shot  by  Evans.  Being  wounded,  we  went  towards  him,  and 
he  made  a  somewhat  vicious  charge,  when  a  final  shot  put  an 


346  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

end  to  him.  This  was  a  very  old  beast,  light  in  colour,  and 
much  scarred  about  the  face.  Many  of  his  teeth  were  broken 
and  decayed.  We  passed  on  to  Baug,  and  found  a  panther  in 
some  cactus  bushes  a  short  distance  below  the  caves.  He  lay 
near  the  top  of  a  very  high  bank,  and  as  one  gun  was  to  be 
posted  above,  we  drew  lots.  The  position  fell  to  Froom,  who 
was  rewarded  for  the  toilsome  ascent  by  getting  the  panther, 
which  he  shot  in  good  style  as  it  went  up  the  bank.  We 
hunted  all  the  old  iron-pits  round  Baug,  but  found  no  marks 
of  tigers  ;  and  the  only  addition  to  our  bag  was  a  large  blue 
bull,  which  started  up  suddenly  from  a  nullah,  and  was 
dropped  as  he  went  off. 

From  Baug  we  made  a  long  march  to  the  eastward,  and 
camped  in  the  Maun  river,  in  a  country  which  I  had  not 
hitherto  visited.  There  was  only  one  tree  which  offered  good 
shade,  and  the  ground  below  it  was  so  infested  with  cattle- 
ticks,  that  we  were  continually  obliged  to  wear  our  long 
riding-boots.  But  our  hearts  were  gladdened  on  the  following 
morning  by  the  arrival  of  Dhokul,  who  with  his  men  had 
marked  a  tiger  and  a  panther  into  the  bed  of  the  river,  a  short 
distance  above  our  camp.  The  tigress,  for  such  it  was,  had 
taken  up  her  quarters  for  the  day  among  a  mass  of  shingle 
and  willows,  on  a  bit  of  ground  which  had  been  swept  by  the 
stream  in  high  floods.  Men  having  been  posted  in  trees  to 
look  out,  we  went  at  her  on  the  elephants,  and  I  presently 
caught  sight  of  her  crouching  among  the  willows,  and  evi- 
dently supposing  she  would  escape  our  observation.  This 
idea,  if  entertained,  I  speedily  dispelled  by  a  shot  behind  the 
shoulder.  Bashi  also  fired,  and  wounded  her,  but  she  doubled 
back  and  got  away  down  the  river.  Our  men  on  the  trees 
now  came  into  play,  and  she  was  observed  by  them  to  make 
for  some  small  patches  of  cypress.  We  followed  her  up  at 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         347 

once,  but  so  well  had  she  concealed  herself  that  the  elephants 
had  passed  within  a  few  feet  of  her  before  she  was  observed. 
A  shot  brought  her  charging  into  the  open  ground,  where  she 
was  slain. 

We  then  went  after  the  panther,  who  was  lying  among  the 
rocks  in  a  small  but  rocky  Tavine  running  down  to  the  Maun. 
On  being  started,  he  made  a  rush  up  the  bank,  and  dis- 
appeared under  a  huge  fragment  of  rock.  Bashi  and  Froom 
having  posted  themselves,  I  went  above  on  an  elephant,  and 
commenced  to  heave  down  big  stones.  My  left  wrist  having 
been  partially  disabled  in  my  encounter  with  the  bear  in 
1857,  I  am  unable  to  grasp  my  rifle  with  that  hand,  and  in 
shooting,  the  gun  merely  rests  in  its  position  by  its  own 
weight.  A  stone  having  fallen  near  the  panther,  he  gave  a 
sharp  growl,  and  the  elephant  suddenly  stepping  back,  I  was 
thrown  forward  against  the  rail  of  the  howdah.  One  of  the 
knobs  which  divide  the  spare  guns  struck  the  trigger,  and  the 
rifle,  which  was  heavily  loaded,  went  off.  The  force  of  the 
explosion  pitched  it  clean  over,  and  being  only  loosely  held  in 
my  right  hand,  it  fell  on  the  rocks  below,  breaking  the  stock. 
Just  before  this  mishap,  fearing  lest  they  should  be  in  the 
way,  I  had  insisted  on  a  number  of  our  men  leaving  a  tree 
which  stood  a  few  paces  off,  and  into  which  they  had  climbed 
to  see  the  fun.  But  for  this  percaution,  one  of  them  would  in 
all  probability  have  been  killed,  for  the  ball,  on  leaving  the 
rifle,  passed  through  the  branches. 

A  few  more  stones  served  to  dislodge  the  panther,  but  he 
bolted  out  with  such  a  sudden  rush  that  he  got  away  up  the 
ravine  unhurt.  Two  of  my  men  had  been  posted  higher  up, 
and  as  the  panther  came  opposite  to  them,  he  halted  on  a 
ledge  of  rock.  The  men,  who  were  armed,  one  with  a  single- 


348  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

barrel  smooth-bore  gun,  the  other  with  a  Brown  Bess  carbine, 
fired  together,  and  the  panther  fell  dead.  The  two  balls,  at  a 
distance  of  about  sixty  yards,  had  struck  him  behind  the 
shoulder,  within  a  couple  of  inches  of  each  other,  and  on 
examining  the  slain  beast,  we  thought  the  shooting  was  a 
credit  to  the  men  of  the  Malwa  Bheel  Corps. 

Finding  no  more  signs  of  game  at  this  place,  we  deter- 
mined on  hunting  the  Maun  river  very  carefully  as  far  as 
Munawur,  as  we  thought  we  should  probably  find  something 
in  the  large  patches  of  cypress  which  covered  its  bed.  We 
therefore  sent  off  the  camp  to  Munawur,  and  next  morning, 
mounting  our  elephants,  we  moved  down  the  broad  bed  of  the 
stream  ;  while  our  men,  keeping  along  the  banks  on  both  sides, 
carefully  examined  the  ground  for  footprints.  We  started 
one  panther,  which,  on  being  wounded  by  me,  crossed  over  to 
Evans,  who  shot  him  dead.  After  this  we  saw  nothing  save 
jackals  and  the  footprints  of  hyaenas,  till  we  had  nearly 
arrived  at  the  end  of  our  beat,  and  were  within  half-a-mile  of 
the  village.  A  few  detached  bushes  stood  out  in  the  waste  of 
shingle,  and  as  they  passed  these,  some  of  the  men  heaved  in 
stones,  and  a  fine  panther  bounded  out.  As  he  was  too  far 
for  accurate  shooting,  we  reserved  our  fire,  and  the  panther, 
leaving  the  river,  went  slowly  up  the  sloping  bank.  When 
he  reached  the  sky-line  we  saw  him  halt  for  a  moment,  and 
then,  with  his  long  tail  whirling  in  the  air,  he  charged  to  the 
front  and  disappeared.  The  growls  of  the  panther  were 
followed  by  loud  human  shrieks,  and  on  going  forward,  we 
found  a  man  of  the  Bunjara  tribe  who  had  been  sharply  clawed. 
He  was  on  his  way  to  the  village  bearing  his  child  on  his  hip, 
and  followed  by  his  wife,  when  the  panther  met  him  suddenly 
on  the  footpath,  and  charged  as  above  described.  Having 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.          349 

directed  him  to  get  his  wound  attended  to  by  my  native  doctor, 
we  went  after  the  panther,  and  after  going  some  distance  took 
his  track  back  to  the  river,  where  he  had  lain  up  in  a  close 
thicket  of  young  mimosa,  whence,  after  some  trouble,  he  was 
dislodged  and  slain. 

We  found  cholera  was  rife  in  the  village,  so  we  moved  at 
once  and  encamped  at  Kotra,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
At  this  place  we  drew  the  cover  blank,  and  could  hear  of  no 
tigers.  We  halted  two  days,  on  each  of  which  Futtah  shot  a 
nylghae.  One  of  these  he  had  wounded  at  some  distance  from 
the  camp,  and  finding  he  had  no  more  ammunition  with  him, 
he  succeeded  in  driving  the  bull  towards  the  tents.  We  were 
quietly  seated,  when  he  rushed  in,  and,  catching  up  a  rifle, 
went  off  at  his  best  pace,  calling  on  us  to  follow.  Away  we 
went,  and,  after  a  long  chase,  we  overtook  the  bull  and  brought 
him  to  bag.  The  marrow-bones  of  these  antelope  are  very 
excellent,  and  we  saved  them  for  ourselves,  giving  the  flesh  to 
the  men.  But  though  the  bull  was  shot  late  in  the  afternoon, 
the  heat  was  so  great  that  they  went  bad  before  dinner-time 
next  evening.  From  this  camp  we  moved  north,  and  pitched 
in  the  jungle  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  We  only  found  one  bear, 
which  I  wounded  but  did  not  get,  and  we  then  ascended  the 
mountains  and  halted  at  Cheerakan.  In  the  ravines  at  this  - 
place  we  collected  a  number  of  fossils.  In  the  marl  and  earthy 
limestones  we  found  many  univalve  and  bivalve  shells,  bucci- 
num,  ammonites,  etc.,  and  in  many  places  the  ground  was 
strewed  with  specimens  of  the  sea-urchin. 

But  we  found  no  game,  and  ascending  into  Malwa,  we  en- 
camped at  Sooltanpoor.  In  the  ravine  in  which  I  had  formerly 
shot  tigers  alone  and  with  Ward,  a  bear  was  found,  but  he 
escaped  into  the  mountains.  Several  parties  of  our  men  had 


350  WILD  MEN  AND  WILD  BEASTS. 

been  sent  out  to  villages  a  few  miles  off,  and  on  the  following 
morning,  at  daybreak,  as  we  lay  on  our  cots  in  the  open  air,  I 
saw  one  of  them  carried  in  on  a  litter.  This  was  Tarrachund, 
a  corporal  of  the  Bheel  Corps,  who  had  been  seized  with  cholera 
the  night  before.  He  was  attended  to  at  once  by  our  doctor, 
but  he  was  beyond  human  aid,  and  died  about  mid-day  after 
great  suffering.  His  body  was  at  once  carried  out  and  burnt, 
and,  aware  of  the  importance  of  getting  away  from  all  traces 
of  the  disease,  we  shifted  our  tents  that  evening  and  encamped 
on  fresh  ground.  Next  day  we  returned  to  Sirdarpore,  and 
then  moved  out  six  miles  to  Dutteegaum,  where  we  watched 
some  bear-caves  in  the  evening.  A  small  bear  was  fired  at 
and  wounded,  but  he  escaped  among  the  rocks,  and  we  lost 
him.  This  was  the  last  beast  which  we  saw.  Our  expedi- 
tion, though  a  pleasant  one  in  many  respects,  had  not  been 
very  successful,  but  this  was  fairly  accounted  for  by  the  num- 
ber of  wild  beasts  which  we  had  killed  in  the  same  district 
during  the  two  preceding  years.  My  men,  too,  were  so 
thoroughly  up  to  their  work,  and  so  persistent  in  their  efforts 
to  show  sport,  that  hardly  an  animal  escaped  them. 

In  the  preceding  pages  I  have  endeavoured  to  show,  from 
my  own  personal  experience,  the  various  circumstances  under 
which,  in  a  somewhat  difficult  country,  the  chase  was  success- 
fully prosecuted,  and  many  wild  and  savage  animals  were 
slain,  with  but  a  small  percentage  of  damage  to  human  life  or 
limb.  To  "  old  shikarees"  I  have  little  to  teach,  but  those 
who  are  learning  their  work,  or  may  be  induced  hereafter  to 
vary  the  tamer  sport  of  Europe  by  a  campaign  in  the  East, 
will,  I  think,  find  in  my  narrative  some  hints  worthy  of  their 
notice. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CAMP  AND  JUNGLE.         351 

The  record  of  my  doings  might  no  doubt  have  been  more 
acceptable  to  the  general  reader  had  it  been  more  varied  with 
matter  other  than  mere  slaughter,  and  had  the  tale  of  blood- 
shed been  more  frequently  relieved  by  accounts  of  the  geo- 
graphy, scenery,  and  natural  history,  human  and  bestial,  of 
the  country  ;  but  all  these  have  been  well  described  elsewhere, 
and  by  abler  pens. 


THE  END. 


Printed  ly  R.  CLARK,'  Edinburgh. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

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